| No disrespect to Greg, but I wouldn't recommend removing the rear main carrier to replace the seal; reason is that I've seen the flanges on these carriers broken off buy what I assume is a removal effort gone wrong. If you really need to remove the carrier I believe that two of bolt holes are threaded to take larger bolts so you could "Jack " the carier out, but make sure you do it equally.
I've replaced this seal a couple times; once on my V-7 Sport & once on a friend's 850T. I drilled a small hole through the old seal on the flat surface mid-way between the ID & OD & installed a sheet metal screw
into the hole. This served as something to grab hold of with a vice grips to pull the seal out. After removal, you can clean up the recess where the seal fits with a rag, some spray carb cleaner, & if you are so
equipped, some compressed air. Good Idea to polish up the sealing surface on the cranklshaft. Then slip the lubed-up new seal over the crank & tap it home.
Greg Bender wrote:
| Hi Ted,
Don't feel dumb at all...most of us (at least the one's humble enough to
admit it) have learned from experience the best way to work on the loop frames by making mistakes and performing extra steps. This certainly includes me! :>
You are now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking at the flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch, flywheel, etc). You
do not need to worry about supporting the crankshaft when you remove the
flange (unless, of course, you have the front of the crankshaft undone as well...which you don't). Perhaps it is possible to remove the rear main seal without pulling the flange, but I would never try it. It's just too risky that you'll gouge up the crank. Even if you don't, it's a
great idea to clean up the end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads
so that it is nice and smooth for the new seal.
So, you need to remove the flange. But, don't just go prying it out of there or you'll break the flange (this equals more money you don't want to spend!). You must be very cautious and take your time. First, remove all of the bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8
of them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I don't have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts of the correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x 1.5mm; but they
might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and evening screw each bolt in. The bolts are larger in diameter than the bolts that hold the flange
on, so they push up against the case. You want to be careful here and not get them unequal or put too much pressure on them...else you'll break the flange. It sometimes helps to put a *little* pressure on them,
then give the flange a smack with a hammer...being careful where you hit
it and protecting the flange with wood. Resist all temptations to pry on
the flange or to hit one of the webbing members of the flange.
While you are at it, you may want to see the checklist I've put together: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things
Best of luck...let us know how it goes.
Edward Walton wrote:
|
Greg thanks for the help. I see all the smart guys can take the tranny off in the frame ! Well dummy here has both out and on the bench. Looking at a parts list I see that the carrier housing for the rear main
seal is also holding the rear main bearing, is this right? And if it is,
how do they hold the crank shaft up when they pull that housing off when
its in the frame ? If you do not take the housing out how does the rear main seal come out ? Any of you guys done this before? As for the JB Weld, Do you put the JB on the outside to stop oil leaks or do you have to instal the plug with it on ?. Thanks for your help Guys Ted 750 Ambo From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Engine Removal Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:21 +0000
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Hi Ted,
Not to answer for Mark (and please correct me if I mis-speak, Mark), but...
Generally it's a good idea to JB Weld the cam plug because some of them have tendency to leak. I suppose one could actually come out, but I've not heard of that...especially given that the forces from the helically cut cam shaft timing gear move the cam in the opposite direction. Having
said this, I've not JB welded mine.
As for paper gaskets, given the effort you've gone to get everything apart and put back together, I would definitely put in new paper gaskets. There is nothing particularly excitely about the Guzzi paper gaskets that seperate them from paper gaskets you can make yourself. Guzzi one's are just already cut out. If you are planning to address other gaskets in the future, you might as well purchase the whole gasket
kit, as I believe you save a few dollars that way.
As for the religious issue of whether or not to use some type of gasket sealer on the gasket, I'll leave that decision up to you.
Edward Walton wrote:
|
Mark I forget why you have to JB Weld the cam Plug ? And how inportant is the rear seal carrier paper gasket for leaking. Do not have one can i
make it or should I wait and buy it? Thanks TED From: "Mark Etheridge@Moto Guzzi Classics" <Guzzi-@aol.com> Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Engine Removal Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 23:58:47 EST
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I leave the motor in,with front engine bolt in place,remove batt tray,swing arm,pull tranny,piece of cake,1st time it took all day,now i do the complete r and r in 3 hrs,takes a couple more to change rear bearing gasket,jb weld
cam plug,change rear seal,Mark
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Regards,
Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Amazing Diet Patch The fastest - Easiest way to lose weight! Try it now FREE! http://click.topica.com/caacOlIb1dfltb6PLDGf/MyDietPatches ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
Regards,
Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender |
Joe in St Louis 850T-Powered Ambo |