Subject: RE: Engine Removal
Author: Greg Bender
Date: Nov 11, 2004, 6:04 PM
Post ID: 1717869897
Hi Ted,
Don't feel dumb at all...most of us (at least the one's humble enough to
admit it) have learned from experience the best way to work on the loop
frames by making mistakes and performing extra steps. This certainly
includes me! :>
You are now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking at the
flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch, flywheel, etc). You
do not need to worry about supporting the crankshaft when you remove the
flange (unless, of course, you have the front of the crankshaft undone
as well...which you don't). Perhaps it is possible to remove the rear
main seal without pulling the flange, but I would never try it. It's
just too risky that you'll gouge up the crank. Even if you don't, it's a
great idea to clean up the end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads
so that it is nice and smooth for the new seal.
So, you need to remove the flange. But, don't just go prying it out of
there or you'll break the flange (this equals more money you don't want
to spend!). You must be very cautious and take your time. First, remove
all of the bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8
of them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the
flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not
threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I don't
have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts of the
correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x 1.5mm; but they
might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and evening screw each bolt
in. The bolts are larger in diameter than the bolts that hold the flange
on, so they push up against the case. You want to be careful here and
not get them unequal or put too much pressure on them...else you'll
break the flange. It sometimes helps to put a *little* pressure on them,
then give the flange a smack with a hammer...being careful where you hit
it and protecting the flange with wood. Resist all temptations to pry on
the flange or to hit one of the webbing members of the flange.
While you are at it, you may want to see the checklist I've put
together:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things
Best of luck...let us know how it goes.
Edward Walton wrote:
Greg thanks for the help. I see all the smart guys can take the tranny off in the frame ! Well dummy here has both out and on the bench. Looking at a parts list I see that the carrier housing for the rear main seal is also holding the rear main bearing, is this right? And if it is, how do they hold the crank shaft up when they pull that housing off when its in the frame ? If you do not take the housing out how does the rear main seal come out ? Any of you guys done this before? As for the JB Weld, Do you put the JB on the outside to stop oil leaks or do you have to instal the plug with it on ?. Thanks for your help Guys Ted 750 Ambo From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Engine Removal Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:21 +0000 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon? Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS! Get NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area. http://click.topica.com/caacOlPb1dfltb6PLDGa/LeadClick ------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Ted, Not to answer for Mark (and please correct me if I mis-speak, Mark), but... Generally it's a good idea to JB Weld the cam plug because some of them have tendency to leak. I suppose one could actually come out, but I've not heard of that...especially given that the forces from the helically cut cam shaft timing gear move the cam in the opposite direction. Having said this, I've not JB welded mine. As for paper gaskets, given the effort you've gone to get everything apart and put back together, I would definitely put in new paper gaskets. There is nothing particularly excitely about the Guzzi paper gaskets that seperate them from paper gaskets you can make yourself. Guzzi one's are just already cut out. If you are planning to address other gaskets in the future, you might as well purchase the whole gasket kit, as I believe you save a few dollars that way. As for the religious issue of whether or not to use some type of gasket sealer on the gasket, I'll leave that decision up to you. Edward Walton wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Amazing Diet Patch The fastest - Easiest way to lose weight! Try it now FREE! http://click.topica.com/caacOlIb1dfltb6PLDGf/MyDietPatches ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender