Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Engine Removal

Author: Paul P. Linn

Date: Nov 15, 2004, 6:25 AM

Post ID: 1717886556



I wouldn't worry about it. Sometime there is a slight ridge worn into
the crank so you have to put the seal in a little deeper or if you are
careful you can put it flush with the edge of the housing. Next time you
have to go in there you could change it if it's leaking.

Paul

edward Walton wrote:

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Thanks Joe great advise. I new there had to be away of getting the
seal out . Came out very easy! But I inatalled the new seal too far
in, soppose to be flush acording to Guzzioligy and i have it in
0.250-0.325 inch past the outside of the housing lip. Damm, what do
you think, will have to do it again when i get a new seal ?. I
cleaned the crankshaft with green scotchbright. It went over the
crankshaft good . New Seal was a double lip Teemers light brown seal,
the old one was black with a single lip !? Now I have to glue up the
camshaft plug. Does breather tube gaskets ever leak ?

This bike is 1973 850 eldo running basket case that i bought for a
touring bike!! I have a Shoie Handle Bar Faring and Calafia Fat Bags
to mount on!

Been riding a Red Ambo since 94 and never had to do very much to keep
er running! I have been all over B.C. and Washington with the Ambo
and sure got the looks. Not many of these old Guzzi`s up here!

Rode my sons Eldo and fell in love with it ! For some of you who have
been on the list for a while, my son bought Derik Hamlets old
bike. My son now lives in Montreal and bikes in storage I think Ian
knows all about that place!

As for me I just retired this year, and I am going to ride the Eldo to
the National next year and everyother!!!!!!!

Thanks again for the help!

Ted

From: joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com> Reply-To:
Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE:
Engine Removal Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 14:55:04 +0000 Your free
subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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disrespect to Greg, but I wouldn't recommend removing the rear main
carrier to replace the seal; reason is that I've seen the flanges on
these carriers broken off buy what I assume is a removal effort gone
wrong. If you really need to remove the carrier I believe that two of
bolt holes are threaded to take larger bolts so you could "Jack " the
carier out, but make sure you do it equally. I've replaced this
seal a couple times; once on my V-7 Sport & once on a friend's 850T. I
drilled a small hole through the old seal on the flat surface mid-way
between the ID & OD & installed a sheet metal screw into the hole.
This served as something to grab hold of with a vice grips to pull the
seal out. After removal, you can clean up the recess where the seal
fits with a rag, some spray carb cleaner, & if you are so equipped,
some compressed air. Good Idea to polish up the sealing surface on the
cranklshaft. Then slip the lubed-up new seal over the crank & tap it
home. Greg Bender wrote: > > Hi Ted, > > Don't feel dumb at all...most
of us (at least the one's humble enough to > > admit it) have learned
from experience the best way to work on the loop > frames by making
mistakes and performing extra steps. This certainly > includes me! :>
 
 You are now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking
at the > flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch,
flywheel, etc). You > > do not need to worry about supporting the
crankshaft when you remove the > > flange (unless, of course, you have
the front of the crankshaft undone > as well...which you don't).
Perhaps it is possible to remove the rear > main seal without pulling
the flange, but I would never try it. It's > just too risky that
you'll gouge up the crank. Even if you don't, it's a > > great idea to
clean up the end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads > > so that
it is nice and smooth for the new seal. > > So, you need to remove the
flange. But, don't just go prying it out of > there or you'll break
the flange (this equals more money you don't want > to spend!). You
must be very cautious and take your time. First, remove > all of the
bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8 > > of
them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the >
flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not >
threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I don't
 have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts of the >
correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x 1.5mm; but
they > > might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and evening screw
each bolt > in. The bolts are larger in diameter than the bolts that
hold the flange > > on, so they push up against the case. You want to
be careful here and > not get them unequal or put too much pressure on
them...else you'll > break the flange. It sometimes helps to put a
*little* pressure on them, > > then give the flange a smack with a
hammer...being careful where you hit > > it and protecting the flange
with wood. Resist all temptations to pry on > > the flange or to hit
one of the webbing members of the flange. > > While you are at it, you
may want to see the checklist I've put > together: >
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things
 
 
 
 Best of luck...let us know how it goes. > > Edward Walton
wrote: > > > > > > Greg thanks for the help. I see all the smart guys
can take the tranny > > off in the frame ! Well dummy here has both
out and on the bench. > > Looking at a parts list I see that the
carrier housing for the rear main > > > > seal is also holding the
rear main bearing, is this right? And if it is, > > > > how do they
hold the crank shaft up when they pull that housing off when > > > >
its in the frame ? If you do not take the housing out how does the
rear > > main seal come out ? Any of you guys done this before? > > As
for the JB Weld, Do you put the JB on the outside to stop oil > >
leaks or do you have to instal the plug with it on ?. > > Thanks for
your help Guys > > Ted 750 Ambo > > From: Greg Bender
<gr-@thisoldtractor.com> > > Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com > >
To: Loopfram-@topica.com > > Subject: RE: Engine Removal > >
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:21 +0000 > > > > Your free subscription
is supported by today's sponsor: > >
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before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS! > > Get NO
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 Hi Ted, > > > > Not to answer for Mark (and please correct me if
I mis-speak, Mark), > > but... > > > > Generally it's a good idea to
JB Weld the cam plug because some of them > > have tendency to leak. I
suppose one could actually come out, but I've > > not heard of
that...especially given that the forces from the helically > > cut cam
shaft timing gear move the cam in the opposite direction. Having > > >
 
 
 said this, I've not JB welded mine. > > > > As for paper
gaskets, given the effort you've gone to get everything > > apart and
put back together, I would definitely put in new paper > > gaskets.
There is nothing particularly excitely about the Guzzi paper > >
gaskets that seperate them from paper gaskets you can make yourself. >
 Guzzi one's are just already cut out. If you are planning to address
 other gaskets in the future, you might as well purchase the whole
gasket > > > > > > kit, as I believe you save a few dollars that way.
 
 
 
 As for the religious issue of whether or not to use some type
of gasket > > sealer on the gasket, I'll leave that decision up to
you. > > > > Edward Walton wrote: > > > > > > > > > Mark I forget why
you have to JB Weld the cam Plug ? And how inportant > > > is the rear
seal carrier paper gasket for leaking. Do not have one can i > > > > >
 
 
 
 make it or should I wait and buy it? > > > Thanks TED > > >
From: "Mark Etheridge@Moto Guzzi Classics" <Guzzi-@aol.com> > > >
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com > > > To:
Loopfram-@topica.com > > > Subject: Re: Engine Removal > > >
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 23:58:47 EST > > > > > > Your free subscription
is supported by today's sponsor: > > >
------------------------------------------------------------------- >
 
 Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon? > > >
Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS! > > > Get
NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area. > > >
http://click.topica.com/caacOlPb1dfltb6PLDGa/LeadClick> > >
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 I leave the motor in,with front engine bolt in place,remove
batt > > > tray,swing > > > arm,pull tranny,piece of cake,1st time it
took all day,now i do the > > > complete r > > > and r in 3 hrs,takes
a couple more to change rear bearing gasket,jb weld > > > > > > > > >
cam > > > plug,change rear seal,Mark > > > > > > Your free
subscription is supported by today's sponsor: > > >
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 >> > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Greg Bender > > 1971
Ambassador > > 2000 Quota > >http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender>
 
 
 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: > >
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 >> > > Regards, > > Greg Bender > 1971 Ambassador > 2000
Quota >http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbenderJoe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo Your free subscription is supported by today's
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