Subject: RE: Engine Removal
Author: joe jump
Date: Nov 12, 2004, 6:55 AM
Post ID: 1717873039
No disrespect to Greg, but I wouldn't recommend removing the rear main
carrier to replace the seal; reason is that I've seen the flanges on
these carriers broken off buy what I assume is a removal effort gone
wrong. If you really need to remove the carrier I believe that two of
bolt holes are threaded to take larger bolts so you could "Jack " the
carier out, but make sure you do it equally.
I've replaced this seal a couple times; once on my V-7 Sport & once
on a friend's 850T. I drilled a small hole through the old seal on the
flat surface mid-way between the ID & OD & installed a sheet metal screw
into the hole. This served as something to grab hold of with a vice
grips to pull the seal out. After removal, you can clean up the recess
where the seal fits with a rag, some spray carb cleaner, & if you are so
equipped, some compressed air. Good Idea to polish up the sealing
surface on the cranklshaft. Then slip the lubed-up new seal over the
crank & tap it home.
Greg Bender wrote:
Hi Ted, Don't feel dumb at all...most of us (at least the one's humble enough to admit it) have learned from experience the best way to work on the loop frames by making mistakes and performing extra steps. This certainly includes me! :> You are now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking at the flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch, flywheel, etc). You do not need to worry about supporting the crankshaft when you remove the flange (unless, of course, you have the front of the crankshaft undone as well...which you don't). Perhaps it is possible to remove the rear main seal without pulling the flange, but I would never try it. It's just too risky that you'll gouge up the crank. Even if you don't, it's a great idea to clean up the end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads so that it is nice and smooth for the new seal. So, you need to remove the flange. But, don't just go prying it out of there or you'll break the flange (this equals more money you don't want to spend!). You must be very cautious and take your time. First, remove all of the bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8 of them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I don't have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts of the correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x 1.5mm; but they might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and evening screw each bolt in. The bolts are larger in diameter than the bolts that hold the flange on, so they push up against the case. You want to be careful here and not get them unequal or put too much pressure on them...else you'll break the flange. It sometimes helps to put a *little* pressure on them, then give the flange a smack with a hammer...being careful where you hit it and protecting the flange with wood. Resist all temptations to pry on the flange or to hit one of the webbing members of the flange. While you are at it, you may want to see the checklist I've put together: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things Best of luck...let us know how it goes. Edward Walton wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender |
Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo