Subject: RE: Clutch
Author: Zerhackermann
Date: May 17, 2002, 11:54 AM
Post ID: 1710275992
Better to deal with that mother in the shop than on the road....
:-)
I expect royalties on the washer idea.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Graf [mailto:kgr-@midwestpension.com]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 11:15 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
The JB weld with a washer is a good idea. I think I'll have to steal
that idea. As for the pipe, good idea, I think I got what you did,
necessity is the mother of invention huh?
Kev
-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 2:22 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
Ok let me clarify my statement:
Using the frame mounting bolt for the transmission will not let you
compress the spring plate.
If you have a 1.5 pitch bolth that is the correct length handy, then
that of course works much better. The factory tool that I have used in
the past is just that. A bolt that fits an input hub that does not have
the interior splines for the input shaft on the tranny. Just ahole
drilled exactly center to accommodate the bolt. Then you don't have to
do any fiddling to get the friction disks centered, just the final
tranny fit to get them right on the money for it.
I did not have the factory tool available this time and I did not have a
short bolt handy. So I improvised with the 6" pipe. A handy thing to
know if for some reason you have to do that. And a 6" pipe has other
uses and takes less space in the toolbag than the factory unit(s)
Next time in I will get a proper bolt and try to find a good centering
bush to fit the old hub I have. Or maybe JB weld a washer in the right
place.
Thanks for the update Kev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Graf [mailto:kgr-@midwestpension.com]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 5:27 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
Hey Zer,
Went to the basement last night and reinstalled the old clutch on the
engine I have. This was just me screwing around after reading your
response, since I haven't had to do a clutch in a while, but it went
like this.
1) install springs, align the 1st metal plate spring housings
2) install input hub(bolt running though the hub w/flange end out and
screwed into the crank) this would work better with some sort of bushing
to help center the hub but one can eyeball it pretty easy.
3) tighten the bolt running through the hub into the crank. The hub will
compress the springs from the center of the first metal plate enough to
install the intermediate plate.
4) install first fiction plate on the hub
5) install intermediate plate
6) install 2nd friction plate
7) install fly wheel, use only a few bolts.
8) pull hub tool
8) At this point mock up the trans to make sure everything is aligned,
which it should be.
9) pull trans, install hub tool again, and tighten all ring gear bolts.
With the hub keeping the friction plates centered and the metal plates
not going anywhere because of the flywheel everything lines up basically
on its own, as long as the hub was centered in the first place which you
will be able to tell once the 1st friction plate is on. The hub will
work better without the flange or lip on the one end and one could
experiment with washers to get maximum compression on the springs but it
works fine the way it is. I read your post as it saying that the hub
cannot be used to compress the springs. Just wanted to put it out there
that it can. Pretty simple and fast. Let me know what you think.
Later,
Kev
-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 4:37 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
Looks like I am getting stuff out of order...
My 2 sheckels.
The tranny input hub can be used to get the teetch on the friction disks
lined up. But that doesn't get the friction disks lined up on the
pressure plates. And it doesn't compress the springs so that you can get
the teeth on the outside of the intermediate plate lined up. And if you
don't get that lined up it will warp. And is very easy to do.
I used a worn out input hub to do the friction disk alignment. I used
the tranny frame mount bolt as a centering bolt but that isn't big
enough to get the works centered on the pressure plates. And it doesn't
put any pressure on the springs so you still can't line up the teeth on
the intemediuate plate.
What I did was tilt the motor forward as far as it would go (I had the
exhaust headers off) I found a bushing to use tostick in the middle of
the gearbox hub. It wasn't perfect but gave me a jump on the centering
process. ThenI took the 2 spacers from the tranny frame mount (I think
they are the same length on the 5 speed) stacked them on the long mount
bolt along with a 6" section of galvenized pipe. This gave me enough
bite on the crank threads to screw in the bolt and compress the springs.
The hard part is that you have to hang the clutch bits on the bolt
before screwin it in. not enough room to get them in place otherwise.
Stick it all together. The bolt will compress the springs enough to get
the intermediate plate in place. As you screw in the bolt, align the
friction disks on the plate.
Then add the ring gear. Just do a couple bolts. Just go tight enough to
hold the friction disks where you want them. Then put the tranny in. no
it won't go in all the way, but it should go in far enough to get the
bolts and dowels all lined up right. This will get the clutch properly
centered to the tranny (no side loads) then tighten down all the ring
gear bolts and you are ready to finish it up.
I only went through the rigamarole with the pipe and long bolt because I
didn't want to go buy a bolt and bush. And I also wanted to see if this
would work for those middle of nowhere moments.
Guzziology and the premiere manual will give you lots of information
about orientations and other helpful hints.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Graf [mailto:kgr-@midwestpension.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 12:41 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
Basically it's a clutch hub, used to align the teeth on the fiction
plates. Also can be used to compress the springs for easy assembly and
disassembly. You'll also need something to lock the flywheel with, I
just use a bent piece of metal with a hole drilled in it so that can be
attached to one of the studs used to mount the trans and fits in between
the teeth of the starter ring. New friction plates will be installed
with the "lip" out, or facing the trans.
Just nuts and bolts...
Kev
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom DeSain [mailto:tomd1-@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 2:48 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
The only factory tools I recall needing was the clutch alignment tool so
that everything's lined up when you tighten up the flywheel. If you use
this,the transmission goes right on no problem. Tom
Jason wrote:
| What do you mean factory tools? What is required? I live in Dallas, TX. -----Original Message----- From: Zerhackermann [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:01 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Clutch it is do-able by anyone but does require some fiddling even with the factory tools to get the sucker aligned right without wrecking the intermediate plate. where you at? anyone nearby willing to show Jason how? 7 bills is mostly labor
Scotch - Because one doesn't solve the world's problems over white wine. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:http://messenger.msn.com |
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