Subject: RE: Clutch
Author: Zerhackermann
Date: May 15, 2002, 1:37 PM
Post ID: 1710262439
Looks like I am getting stuff out of order...
My 2 sheckels.
The tranny input hub can be used to get the teetch on the friction disks
lined up. But that doesn't get the friction disks lined up on the
pressure plates. And it doesn't compress the springs so that you can get
the teeth on the outside of the intermediate plate lined up. And if you
don't get that lined up it will warp. And is very easy to do.
I used a worn out input hub to do the friction disk alignment. I used
the tranny frame mount bolt as a centering bolt but that isn't big
enough to get the works centered on the pressure plates. And it doesn't
put any pressure on the springs so you still can't line up the teeth on
the intemediuate plate.
What I did was tilt the motor forward as far as it would go (I had the
exhaust headers off)
I found a bushing to use tostick in the middle of the gearbox hub. It
wasn't perfect but gave me a jump on the centering process. ThenI took
the 2 spacers from the tranny frame mount (I think they are the same
length on the 5 speed) stacked them on the long mount bolt along with a
6" section of galvenized pipe. This gave me enough bite on the crank
threads to screw in the bolt and compress the springs. The hard part is
that you have to hang the clutch bits on the bolt before screwin it in.
not enough room to get them in place otherwise.
Stick it all together. The bolt will compress the springs enough to get
the intermediate plate in place. As you screw in the bolt, align the
friction disks on the plate.
Then add the ring gear. Just do a couple bolts. Just go tight enough to
hold the friction disks where you want them. Then put the tranny in. no
it won't go in all the way, but it should go in far enough to get the
bolts and dowels all lined up right. This will get the clutch properly
centered to the tranny (no side loads) then tighten down all the ring
gear bolts and you are ready to finish it up.
I only went through the rigamarole with the pipe and long bolt because I
didn't want to go buy a bolt and bush. And I also wanted to see if this
would work for those middle of nowhere moments.
Guzziology and the premiere manual will give you lots of information
about orientations and other helpful hints.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Graf [mailto:kgr-@midwestpension.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 12:41 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
Basically it's a clutch hub, used to align the teeth on the fiction
plates. Also can be used to compress the springs for easy assembly and
disassembly. You'll also need something to lock the flywheel with, I
just use a bent piece of metal with a hole drilled in it so that can be
attached to one of the studs used to mount the trans and fits in between
the teeth of the starter ring. New friction plates will be installed
with the "lip" out, or facing the trans.
Just nuts and bolts...
Kev
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom DeSain [mailto:tomd1-@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 2:48 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Clutch
The only factory tools I recall needing was the clutch alignment tool so
that everything's lined up when you tighten up the flywheel. If you use
this,the transmission goes right on no problem. Tom
Jason wrote:
| What do you mean factory tools? What is required? I live in Dallas, TX. -----Original Message----- From: Zerhackermann [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:01 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Clutch it is do-able by anyone but does require some fiddling even with the factory tools to get the sucker aligned right without wrecking the intermediate plate. where you at? anyone nearby willing to show Jason how? 7 bills is mostly labor
Scotch - Because one doesn't solve the world's problems over white wine. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:http://messenger.msn.com |
Tom, 69V7 60 Stornello