Hello Chuck, I guess I was just trying to say it can be kept pretty simple.I also was tossing around the PROS and CONS, a legitmate use of the forum. As far as alignment, I just stick my finger tips in from the backside to line the two pieces up and then bring them together, The main caveat is to make sure you have the right side going right. Really pretty straight forward. Using the proper adhesive makes a big difference. I just picked up a '71 BSA B-50 MX ,the whole engine was pasted together with blue silicone seal. I am really glad the PO used the stuff . Nice of him to let me know the engine should be disassembled and inspected :-).
The problem with trying to seal the joint with banding type clamps is the long paralell sides are not likely to ever seal. To do the job right would require a more eliptcal shape as well as the pressure bead already mentioned. A lot of fuss compared to just using good adhesive and taking care. The boots put on with weatherstrip adhesive don't need redoing . The glue will outlive the boot. The whole idea is to achieve a good tight seal and a strong mechanical joint. Silicone can be a good seal but it is a poor adhesive. Of course we are all just comparing the different methods. If we didn't care what others did we wouldn't be reading any of this ,let alone take the time to respond. Lets just keep em running and save them from those who wouldn't . Thanks Chuck for readind and responding -. Charlie Mullendore wrote:
Hi Gary, The "fuss" is that the boot doesn't always go where you want it to before or after the application of any sealer/adhesive. With a sleeve/stiffener of some sort, it would be located more positively. Bob asked, Zer and I answered with some thoughts of what would work in addition to Tom's suggestion. Don't consider that a "fuss", just trying to help a fellow Looper (what this list is all about, eh?) :~) Cheers,
Charlie p.s. No alternators yet. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Cheek" <kg8-@home.com> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 4:21 PM Subject: RE: ORIGINAL LOOP AIR CLEANER
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What the heck is all the fuss? 3M Weatherstrip adhesive (GET THE BLACK STUFF AT THE AUTOMOTIVE PAINT SUPPLY STORE)is made for the very purpose. Clean the rubber where it mates to the cover. Clean the cover where it mates with the boot, alcohol or lighter fluid works well. Now a THIN layer of adhesive is run around the mating sufaces of both parts. Allow the glglue to dry till firm and barely tacky . Now put the two together press the joint firkly and allow to finish drying for a couple hours. There will be no excess mess and the seal will last longer than the boot.
The WZerhackermann . wrote:
clear silicon adhesive/sealer. much better. excess can be wiped away with a finger. and you can barely see any excess anyow.
pull the battery. undo the two bottom bolts on the air cleaner and just loosent eh top bolt. then you can use your finger to goo the lip of the boot then swing the cleaner housing back into place and bingo.
From: Tom Bowes <kk-@home.com> Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: ORIGINAL LOOP AIR CLEANER Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:46:49 +0000
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Bob,
There is another alternative that you might want to consider. Gary
Cheek
and I have glued the rubber air boot on our bikes to the airbox using weatherstrip adhesive, and so far it is working quite well. The biggest tricks were getting everything in position prior to applying the glue, and getting the boot and airbox squeeky clean for the adhesive. I had a new boot and a freshly powder coated airbox to work with, so I just installed the boot, trial fitted the airbox, and cleaned their mating surfaces with solvent alcohol. The extra glue was removed with a bit of naptha (handwarmer fluid).
I thought about the inner sleeve trick myself, let us know how it works if your decide to go that way.
Tom
'70 (July '69) Ambassador '82 V50-III Shelby Township, Michigan
Robert Hawkes wrote:
Gentlemen, Currently I have the traditional air cleaner system on my Ambo. ,
the
round air filter, inside the metal air box, loosely connected to the rubber sleeve going to the carbs. The rubber thingy is connected
with
duct tape. Not a good situation. What I want to do is fix the weak spot in this system which is the loosely connected rubber sleeve to
the
metal air box. I want to make a metal collar that attaches to the inside of the metal air box and extends out and into the rubber
sleeve
so that I can put a large hose clamp around the rubber sleeve and
cinch
it down onto this new extension. Does this make sense? I'd rather
not
throw out the original air box and put on modern filters. Thanks,
Bob
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Scotch - Because one doesn't solve the world's problems over white wine.
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