Subject: Re: EX. Leaks

Author: Robert Hawkes

Date: Oct 25, 2001, 3:54 PM

Post ID: 1708700601

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Exactly- if you use the wrong tool you stand a chance of distorting the
part. Use the proper tool form minimizes the distortion.
Pipe wrenches are one of the worst offenders , the hook spanners with
the pivoting link are close behind.

Regarding the the tighten while hot- Aluminum gets weak when heated at
a faster rate than steel or brass. The threads may also fracture as they
cool .

Looks like I will run a batch of wrenches in January, Stay tuned those
who have spoken for them will have first dibs . The fork tools will
follow soon after.
THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE!
Zerhackermann . wrote:

The replacement nuts are made from steel while the good OEM nuts were
brass with chrome plating. Brass has a similar expansion rate to
alumininum .

This making them less leak/loosening prone. Makes sense.

The collapsing I made reference to was the force imparted not actual
collapsing, but the distortion is often permanent and it does limit the
effectivness of the nut.

If you are distorting something, something is wrong or you are doing it
wrong. But hey, it's your bike do as you like.

Zerhackermann . wrote:

Greg, the two are made from different metals. The aluminum expands

different amount/rate than the nut. So I do it once cold and then

hot
(gas stop). After a couple gas stops, even with antiseize, there is

tightening to do. This summer after 2000 miles I checked again, no
loosening, tight as ever. And on these parts (heads and nuts) the
threads
were not in the best of shape. I do use the frame rail clamps as

though. And I seriously doubt a hook wrench is gonna collapse

unless there were other problems present already.

From: Greg Field <gfie-@pop.mindspring.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:57:41 -0700

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I'm interested in the tools, too.

A question about the tighten-while-hot method:

If the metal expands when it gets hot, wouldn't the nut grow in
diameter at the same time the circumference of the threaded area of
the port shrinks, making the whole sitch worse?

I've always tightened cold for that reason, but maybe my
understanding of what's happening is flawed?


Greg Field

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Hi Gary...I'd be interested in both tools.....

I know it's probably been mentioned but it's VERY important to use

frame/exhaust clamps to keep the threads from wearing out.....

Mike
www.classicguzzi.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Cheek" <kg8-@home.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:38 PM
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks


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>
From what it sounds like everyone is using maybe it is time I

a

>batch of the proper dog type spanners. The "hook type are a bit

better

>than the Chanellock/pipe wrench/hammer chisel hackersaw etc.

dog

>type spanner uses 2 flat dog keys 180 degrees apart to give a

>tangental drive without crushing the nut as the others do. I

>similar tool for Tom Bowes to use on his fork tubes and have

>thinking of making a batch of them too.
Let me know how much interest there is,the price will be

reasonable .

>
PS , Permatex high temp anti sieze compound is the best thing

use

>on
the threads, If threads are worn, a few layers of Teflon pipe

>wrapped CLOCKWISE from the end of the nut can buy you a lot of

time. It

>takes up extra clearance and cushions the threads from further

wear.

>
Kevin Graf wrote:
> Thanks, I found some that look like they would work on the

website.

>>
> "I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop"
>
> There's a T-shirt there somewhere.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:36 PM
> To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
>
>
> ---------------- Sprint 7" AnyTime(sm)

>> Order online and save online! You can save up to $5.95
> every month and enjoy 7" long distance 24/7. Introducing
> Sprint 7" AnyTime(sm) Online, a new calling plan for price-
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>>
> It's like a set of 3 wee, not so wee and friggin huge.
> they have a hinge in the middle so that they can fit a

>> diameters,
> the hook is 1/8-1/4" wide as opposed to the shock adjustors

guage

>> pressed
> steel. AND they have a neoprene handle. I wrapped mine ina

and

>> stuck
> it in my tool box. I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Kevin Graf <kgr-@midwestpension.com>
> >Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> >To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> >Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
> >Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:00:08 -0400
> >
> >============================================================
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> >Find out with a FREE Equifax credit report & FREE
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> >============================================================
> >
> >I'll have to look into that sounds allot better than that

>V-Twin
> >shock adjuster that barely fits right. Are the wrenches

>> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 11:46 AM
> >To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> >Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
> >
> >
> >============================================================
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> >
> >I think I have a set of your old exhaust nuts. Ugly.
> >Harbor freight sels a set of hook wrenches for 8 bux that

>> >perfectly,
> >don't slip and they don't trash your nuts (har)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: Bruce Giller <bgil-@mitre.org>
> > >Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> > >To: Loopfram-@topica.com
> > >Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
> > >Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:12:35 -0400
> > >
> >

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============================================================

>> > >
> > > My Weapon of Choice is a chain-Visegrip to tighten/remove

exhaust
>> > >nuts. This all-purpose tool will grab just about any

object

and
>> > >hold it still. Using it on the exhaust nuts, you need to
carefully
> > >place the chain for the clearances between the nut and the
cylinder
head
>> > >can get tight and you don't want the chain scraping the

I

>also
> > >use it (with adequate protection) to disassemble the front

forks.

>> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > '72 Eldo
> > >
> > >Ian Adkins wrote:
> > > > Ed,
> > > >
> > > > I can't really remember exactly. I think that a BIG

wrench

was
>> > > > used....some penetrating oil......lots of pulling and I

think

>the
nut
>> > > > finally collapsed in on itself and the nut came out

way.

>In
hind
>> > >site
> > > > that was likely a pretty stupid thing to do since I

damaging
>> >the
> > > > threads in the head. Turns out that the only thing that

destroyed
>> > >was
> > > > the nut.....I was lucky. You might try heating the nut

>> > > >
> > > > Is this the new "old" girl you are working on? Did you

the

bike
>> >ok?
> > >I'm
> > > > looking forward to meeting you and seeing the bike in

New

Year.
>> > > >
> > > > Regards....Ian
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Edward Flanagan <flan-@edwardsbaking.com>
> > > > To: 'Loopfram-@topica.com'

<Loopfram-@topica.com>

>> > > > Date: October 24, 2001 10:38 AM
> > > > Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
> > > >
> > > > >Ian, how did you finally get the header nut loose. I

one

that I
>> > >have
> > > > >almost destroyed and can't seem to get loose.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thanks, Ed
> > > > >
> > >
> >

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>> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

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>

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