Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

The replacement nuts are made from steel while the good OEM nuts were
brass with chrome plating. Brass has a similar expansion rate to
alumininum .
The collapsing I made reference to was the force imparted not actual
collapsing, but the distortion is often permanent and it does limit the
effectivness of the nut.
Zerhackermann . wrote:

Greg, the two are made from different metals. The aluminum expands at a
different amount/rate than the nut. So I do it once cold and then again
hot
(gas stop). After a couple gas stops, even with antiseize, there is not
tightening to do. This summer after 2000 miles I checked again, no
loosening, tight as ever. And on these parts (heads and nuts) the
threads
were not in the best of shape. I do use the frame rail clamps as well
though. And I seriously doubt a hook wrench is gonna collapse anything.
unless there were other problems present already.

From: Greg Field <gfie-@pop.mindspring.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:57:41 -0700

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I'm interested in the tools, too.

A question about the tighten-while-hot method:

If the metal expands when it gets hot, wouldn't the nut grow in
diameter at the same time the circumference of the threaded area of
the port shrinks, making the whole sitch worse?

I've always tightened cold for that reason, but maybe my
understanding of what's happening is flawed?

Greg Field

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Hi Gary...I'd be interested in both tools.....

I know it's probably been mentioned but it's VERY important to use the
frame/exhaust clamps to keep the threads from wearing out.....

Mike
www.classicguzzi.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Cheek" <kg8-@home.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:38 PM
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

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From what it sounds like everyone is using maybe it is time I make a
batch of the proper dog type spanners. The "hook type are a bit better
than the Chanellock/pipe wrench/hammer chisel hackersaw etc. The dog
type spanner uses 2 flat dog keys 180 degrees apart to give a more
tangental drive without crushing the nut as the others do. I made a
similar tool for Tom Bowes to use on his fork tubes and have been
thinking of making a batch of them too.
Let me know how much interest there is,the price will be reasonable .

PS , Permatex high temp anti sieze compound is the best thing to use
on
the threads, If threads are worn, a few layers of Teflon pipe tape
wrapped CLOCKWISE from the end of the nut can buy you a lot of time. It
takes up extra clearance and cushions the threads from further wear.

Kevin Graf wrote:

Thanks, I found some that look like they would work on the website.

"I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop"

There's a T-shirt there somewhere.

-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:36 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

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It's like a set of 3 wee, not so wee and friggin huge.
they have a hinge in the middle so that they can fit a variety of
diameters,
the hook is 1/8-1/4" wide as opposed to the shock adjustors 16 guage
pressed
steel. AND they have a neoprene handle. I wrapped mine ina towel and
stuck
it in my tool box. I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop

From: Kevin Graf <kgr-@midwestpension.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:00:08 -0400

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I'll have to look into that sounds allot better than that stupid

V-Twin

shock adjuster that barely fits right. Are the wrenches sized?

-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 11:46 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks

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I think I have a set of your old exhaust nuts. Ugly.
Harbor freight sels a set of hook wrenches for 8 bux that work
perfectly,
don't slip and they don't trash your nuts (har)

>From: Bruce Giller <bgil-@mitre.org>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:12:35 -0400

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My Weapon of Choice is a chain-Visegrip to tighten/remove the

exhaust

>nuts. This all-purpose tool will grab just about any round object

and

>hold it still. Using it on the exhaust nuts, you need to

carefully

>place the chain for the clearances between the nut and the

cylinder

head

>can get tight and you don't want the chain scraping the head. I

also

>use it (with adequate protection) to disassemble the front forks.

Bruce

'72 Eldo

Ian Adkins wrote:
> Ed,
>
> I can't really remember exactly. I think that a BIG pipe wrench

was

>> used....some penetrating oil......lots of pulling and I think

the

nut

>> finally collapsed in on itself and the nut came out that way.

hind

>site
> that was likely a pretty stupid thing to do since I risked

damaging

the
>> threads in the head. Turns out that the only thing that was

destroyed

>was
> the nut.....I was lucky. You might try heating the nut too.
>
> Is this the new "old" girl you are working on? Did you get the

bike

ok?
>I'm
> looking forward to meeting you and seeing the bike in the New

Year.

>>
> Regards....Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Edward Flanagan <flan-@edwardsbaking.com>
> To: 'Loopfram-@topica.com' <Loopfram-@topica.com>
> Date: October 24, 2001 10:38 AM
> Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
>
> >Ian, how did you finally get the header nut loose. I have one

that I

>have
> >almost destroyed and can't seem to get loose.
> >
> >Thanks, Ed
> >

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Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

Author: Gary Cheek

Date: Oct 25, 2001, 2:03 PM

Post ID: 1708699570

Entire thread: