Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

From what it sounds like everyone is using maybe it is time I make a
batch of the proper dog type spanners. The "hook type are a bit better
than the Chanellock/pipe wrench/hammer chisel hackersaw etc. The dog
type spanner uses 2 flat dog keys 180 degrees apart to give a more
tangental drive without crushing the nut as the others do. I made a
similar tool for Tom Bowes to use on his fork tubes and have been
thinking of making a batch of them too.
Let me know how much interest there is,the price will be reasonable .

PS , Permatex high temp anti sieze compound is the best thing to use on
the threads, If threads are worn, a few layers of Teflon pipe tape
wrapped CLOCKWISE from the end of the nut can buy you a lot of time. It
takes up extra clearance and cushions the threads from further wear.

Kevin Graf wrote:

Thanks, I found some that look like they would work on the website.

"I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop"

There's a T-shirt there somewhere.

-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:36 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

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It's like a set of 3 wee, not so wee and friggin huge.
they have a hinge in the middle so that they can fit a variety of
diameters,
the hook is 1/8-1/4" wide as opposed to the shock adjustors 16 guage
pressed
steel. AND they have a neoprene handle. I wrapped mine ina towel and
stuck
it in my tool box. I checked my nuts (ahem) at each fuel stop

From: Kevin Graf <kgr-@midwestpension.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:00:08 -0400

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I'll have to look into that sounds allot better than that stupid V-Twin
shock adjuster that barely fits right. Are the wrenches sized?

-----Original Message-----
From: Zerhackermann . [mailto:chopp-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 11:46 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks

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I think I have a set of your old exhaust nuts. Ugly.
Harbor freight sels a set of hook wrenches for 8 bux that work
perfectly,
don't slip and they don't trash your nuts (har)

From: Bruce Giller <bgil-@mitre.org>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: EX. Leaks
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:12:35 -0400

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My Weapon of Choice is a chain-Visegrip to tighten/remove the exhaust
nuts. This all-purpose tool will grab just about any round object and
hold it still. Using it on the exhaust nuts, you need to carefully
place the chain for the clearances between the nut and the cylinder head
can get tight and you don't want the chain scraping the head. I also
use it (with adequate protection) to disassemble the front forks.

Bruce

'72 Eldo

Ian Adkins wrote:

Ed,

I can't really remember exactly. I think that a BIG pipe wrench was
used....some penetrating oil......lots of pulling and I think the nut
finally collapsed in on itself and the nut came out that way. In hind

site

that was likely a pretty stupid thing to do since I risked damaging

the

threads in the head. Turns out that the only thing that was destroyed

was

the nut.....I was lucky. You might try heating the nut too.

Is this the new "old" girl you are working on? Did you get the bike

ok?

I'm

looking forward to meeting you and seeing the bike in the New Year.

Regards....Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Flanagan <flan-@edwardsbaking.com>
To: 'Loopfram-@topica.com' <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Date: October 24, 2001 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

Ian, how did you finally get the header nut loose. I have one that I

have

almost destroyed and can't seem to get loose.

Thanks, Ed

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Subject: RE: EX. Leaks

Author: Gary Cheek

Date: Oct 24, 2001, 12:38 PM

Post ID: 1708687487

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