Subject: Re: Eldo rear drive question
Author: Ted Ward
Date: Apr 25, 2005, 12:30 PM
Post ID: 1718758035
Thanks for the help. Well, I only ran it on the centerstand for about a
minute, won't do it again.
The reason I did it in the first place was that when I took off the filler
nut, I noticed it was magnetic and had a decent amount of very fine shavings
attached to it but its probably from the PO as it had a bad tranny input
gear when I got it and the clutch wouldn't engage/disengage smoothly.
Seems to work great so I'll "go for a ride" as you suggest.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Hayes" <peha-@comcast.net>
Ted Ward wrote:
| Is the nut on the back of the drive a level or a drain? |
It is neither. It is supposed to be a level plug, but they are
notoriously inaccurate. I don't ever remove it. Drain the liquid from
the sump bottom. Add new fluid through the top plug to a specified
volume using a nice measuiring cylinder. 230cc gear oil, 20cc moly.
| With my bike up on its centerstand and the bike in gear idling, the rear drive makes some "clunky" noises. Has anyone else notice if that is normal or not? |
STOP! Don't do it. There is a normal significant amount of backlash
within the gearbox and the driveline. The engine, due to its 90 degree
"V" configuration, does not rotate smoothly at idle. It is slightly but
constantly increasing and decreasing its relative rpm rate with each
cylinder pulse. This pulsing variation gets transmitted to the rear
wheel which is trying its best to rotate at a constant rpm. All of the
gears and driveline parts get hammered significantly. Good way to rip
up your U-joint or pinion gear.
Turn the motor off. Gearbox in neutral. Hand rotate the rear wheel.
There should be slop between the forward rotation and backward rotation.
Hear any rolling or rotational noises or significant resistance? If
yes, then start tearing down. If no, then go for a ride.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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