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Chuck, can you explain "valve lash"? Thanks, Bob HAwkes
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Sherman [mailto:chucks-@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:56 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: %$^&(*#(
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solving problems like this requires a process of elimination...
Check compression first; make sure valves are properly lashed. check
the hole dry - then squirt oil in there to seal the rings. If
compression is low and stays low - you burned a valve or bent one on a
wild redline-plus spree.
After that - check plugs. swap wires and plugs back and forth to verify
it ain't a bad wire or plug. I've spent many an hour chasing down false
problems only to find out it's a bad plug. I absolutely HATE champions;
they've been the root of many an evil night in the garage. These days I
swap 'em out whenever I find 'em - everything gets Bosch.
Then - on to the fuel system. Dunno how easy this is with
sinistra/deresta dellortos, but you may be able to swap the carbs in a
pinch to see if the problem follows the swap.
If you're still having issues after all this, then yes...it's timing. If
you don't know how to time by ear - don't. The timing marks are on the
inner flange of the crank pulley, and are small v-notches about a
millimeter deep. The first mark (as you approach TDC) is the TDC mark;
the second is the timing mark at 900 rpm (prox), the third mark is a
reference advance mark for an intermediate speed, and the last mark is
full advance at 3500 RPM (prox.)
Me? I like to recurve the distributor to provide less inital advance
and less overall top advance; this allows more static advance without
burning the piston at operating speeds. Better initial throttle
response; an old hot-rodder's trick.
Paul P. Linn wrote:
| | Ted,
The marks on the pulley can be a pain to see. I clean the pulley real
good and then put some white paint in the little notches to make the
stand out better. Like Bob said, make sure you put the pulley back on in
the correct spot or you could have problems. How loose was the chain
when you put the new tensioner in? Best thing to do is start from
scratch and find TDC on the left cylinder and then check the mark on the
flywheel is lined up with it's mark on the tranny housing (10 o'clock
when viewed from rear) and then check to see where your timing gear
marks are. I know this means removing the tranny, but it will keep you
from pulling your hair out or slashing your wrists. Have you checked the
compression on both sides? Did you pull the heads to see if you have
excess carbon buildup? Enough freeplay in all your cables? Do you still
have the stock fuel crossover? Did you strip and clean the distributor
and replace the springs? Are you getting a strong blue spark on both
sides?
Paul
Ted Ward wrote:
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The bike ran great, then one day just started to bog down and hasn't
run well since.
I did have the distributor out in the process of trying to fix this
problem put it back recently. The bike will start and run crappy, but
it runs the same way it ran before I took it out. (checked the sheared
pin problem Greg Bender mentioned)
I also put in a new timing chain tensioner after this problem began,
the old one was just gone. The timing marks were lined up when I put
it back together could that still be the problem? But again, it runs
the same now as it did before I put the tensioner in.
I guess I need to get guzziology to figure out how to set static
timing (don't see any visible marks on my pulley) but I've basically
been getting it to start then trying to rotate the distributor by hand
to get the best position.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Custom Guzzi <mailto:paul-@comcast.net>
Ted,
If you had the distributor out you could have put it back in 180
degrees out. Bike will run crappy when and if it starts.
Paul
Greg Bender wrote:
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Hi Ted,
If you are feeling suction when you put your hand over the left exhaust
port on the head, then that seems very odd to me. Unless your valve
timing is way off, I wouldn't think that should ever happen.
I'll ramble through some thoughts...
Let me think this through with consideration with the four strokes:
1. Intake - Intake valve open/Exhaust valve closed
2. Compression - both valves closed
3. Power - both valves closed
4. Exhaust - Intake valve closed/Exhaust valve open
Of course, there is some slight overlap, but nothing that I can think of |
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that would cause that much suction. Perhaps someone else on the list can |
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provide more insight.
I think you mention that you static timed the ignition, set the points,
tried a new condensor, tried new plugs, made sure the points/condensor
wires weren't touching, all to no avail (please correct me if I'm
wrong).
You may want to re-checked the static ignition timing. John Schwartz
told me a story of a bike he just couldn't get to run right one time. He |
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would static time it and it would run good for a minute, but then the
performance would deteriorate. He'd check the timing again and it was
off. Drove him crazy. Finally, he pulled the distributor and found that
the spring pin that holds the gear to the bottom of the distributor had
sheared off. I doubt that this is your problem, but when you are at the
end of your rope, it might be worth a try.
This just seems like a timing related issue to me...hmmm...
Ted Ward wrote:
| | I'm about to slit my wrists trying to figure out why my eldo won't run
well
and noticed something odd, when I put my hand over the left cylinder
header
and crank the bike (spark plugs disconnected), I feel more suction than |
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| | | | | | | | exhast, feels like its going to suck my hand into the pipe. Is that
normal?
I have completely and throughly cleaned the carbs, I get spark, wiring
appears to be in good shape I have the aircleaners off currently, gas |
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flowing though if I blow into the fuel inlets on either carb, it does
take a
little effort.
I remember when the bike originally began running bad, I noticed my
generator had slipped in its cradle and was straining its wiring, but
the
wiring still looks fine, the gen. light goes out when sufficient revs
are
reached and I do have spark (not sure how strong).
Ted
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Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc
Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc
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