Subject: Re: %$^&(*#(
Author: Ted Ward
Date: Apr 5, 2005, 8:14 PM
Post ID: 1718654786
I agree, that was pretty funny :)
Replaced the condensor twice just to make sure with one made for a 68 v8.
I may have been wrong on the exhaust, I need to check it again but it seemed
to be really tugging on my palm.
Lots of good advice, thanks.
One question: I didn't realize the valve timing could be adjusted, I thought
that was controlled by the pulleys/timing chain etc...
What might happen to throw off the valve timing? I thought the only timing
to adjust was at the distributor.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Telford" <jr-@avalon.net>
Some pretty amusing responses. Sorry Ted, I'm not laughing at you. I'm
laughing at everyone else.
Here's some more random thoughts-
Consider the condenser. They do go bad on occasion and then the bike
runs like crap (doesn't explain the suction on exhaust, though).
Get some white fingernail polish or white-out or paint or whatever, and
paint the timing marks so you can see them more easily. I static time
first, then fine tune dynamically.
Run the motor around (if you are sitting where the front wheel is and
facing the front of the motor, turn it clockwise- note- this is opposite
of the usual 'sitting on the bike' orientation)- does TDC mark match up
with a stick, or ziptie in the cylinder? Run it around again- did the
valves open then close in the correct sequence? On at least one TDC,
the valves should be fully closed (to set the gap).
The inlet valve opens at 24 deg BTDC adn closes at 58 ATDC. The exhaust
opens at 58 BBDC and closes at 22 ATDC. This is where a timing wheel
helps. FWIW, the marks on the front pulley (in the order that they pass
by the arrow on the chest) are at 38 deg BTDC, 28 deg BTDC, 10 deg BTDC
and TDC. So the inlet should be opening around the time that the second
mark passes. Hope that's not too confusing. Take a look in the
Chiltons for a picture. Do you have a copy of the chilton's manual? I
think G. Bender has a pdf copy on his website or I can email a copy to
you.
If you do end up pulling the motor, then buy/borrow a timing wheel. You
can set valve timing pretty easy with one. And at the same time you can
mark the flywheel correctly, so you don't have to rely on the itty bitty
timing marks on the generator pulley that may or may not be correct or
correctly oriented.
Chuck, do you use heavier springs to lessen the advance???
Don- most older coils will work on the loop, but it DOES require a
resistor coil (I don't remember the value, but its standard- 3 ohm or
so). If in doubt- measure the resistance with an ohmmeter.
J
Tom Halchuk wrote:
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Ward" <ju-@astrocomma.com> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 3:47 PM Subject: Re: %$^&(*#( Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Click Here for the #1 Investigative tool on the Net! http://click.topica.com/caadlCpb1dfltb7hDhIa/WebDetective ------------------------------------------------------------------- I did have the starter rebuilt around this time and the inside of the left carb was a bit sooty recently. The distributor is turning clockwise, is that normal? Ted (going to see if the right cylinder is sucking as well) --- scott kelso <fores-@conknet.com> wrote:
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