Subject: RE: clutch question....
Author: Greg Bender
Date: Feb 28, 2005, 5:59 AM
Post ID: 1718466928
Hi Bill,
Rick and Gordon should be able to tell you if you need any special
tools, etc. I think Paul Linn put one of these in might have had a few
pictures of his installation floating around, but I may have it all
wrong.
As for what else to do once you are in the bell housing? I'd just take a
good look at all the seals, gaskets, crush washers, etc. to make sure
they are all in top notch shape.
Of course, for bonus points, you can polish the inside of the bell
housing to a mirror-like finish. I do that to *ALL* my motorcycles. It
takes a bit of time but is well worth it as it cuts down on the
turbulence created by the flywheel spinning about inside. Essentially,
the smoother finish reduces the drag created by the spinning flywheel -
achieving a lightened flywheel effect without all the unnecessary
drilling and balancing work. If you do that and add one of Pete Roper's
magic oil cooling dip-sticks, you will gain 15 HP at the rear wheel,
easy!
bluezi-@att.net wrote:
| I know in the past there has been some discussion on clutch replacement, but here's another for the great minds gathered on this forum... I am ordering a RAM clutch from MG Cycle tomorrow, what should I know before installation? I remember reading some stuff on replacing a traditional clutch and needing an alignment tool, is this needed for the installation of a RAM clutch? According to MG's site, it looks like it comes assembled, does that mean all I need to do is to take out the old one and pop in the new? What else should I replace while I'm in there? Thanks in advance, Bill 73 Bronze Eldo |
Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender