Do you have one of these shifters to go by for the splines?
Paul
-----Original Message----- From: Gary Cheek [mailto:kg8-@home.com] Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 5:16 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: db floorboards
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Hi Paul, Glad you were able to make the splines. I would have gladly cut them for you but all is well now. I was thinking abouy running off a few floorboard lever repros this winter. I will let you know. Gary Paul Linn wrote:
As far as I know, you can't buy a new shifter for these boards. If you know otherwise, please share the location. I did find out that I could just press the shaft thru with a press and it made the splines.
Paul 69 Ambo .5 74 Eldo
-----Original Message----- From: Gary Cheek [mailto:kg8-@home.com] Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 4:58 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: db floorboards
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The lever he wants to use is made from cast aluminum. Welding steel to aluminum is a lot harder than about 15 minutes at the Bridgeport:-) Easier still buy a new one. I think he was trying to save a few bucks. Martin Cooke wrote:
If all you want is a different length of lever, why not take a stock item & cut & shut it, fill with braze & re-chrome.
Sounds a lot easier to me.
cookie
----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Cheek <kg8-@home.com> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 5:39 PM Subject: RE: db floorboards
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Just saw this post and figuired a response was in order. I read another response commenting on the use of a broach. While a broach is used in production applications the cost in this case is of course extreme. The heating method will only find the part you desire to form to be quenched quickly when contact is made with the male part,unless
of
course the male part is preheated. In the case of heating to form ,a suitable part will be very hard if not impossible . You also stand a very good chance of destoying your casting. The way we would most likely undertake cutting the inside spline
would
be to use a cutter sharpend to conform with the desired profile. We would then center the workpiece mouted on a rotary table below the spindle of a vertical mill IE:"Bridgeport" . The work piece would be offset to correspond to the major diameter. The cutter would be driven slotter style thru the bore,retracted ,the rotary table would be
rotated
the appropriate nunber of degrees . The steps repeated till the spline was formed . This process could well be acheive with other machines by adapting the scheme . A lathe with a means to index the spindle would work as would a stout drill press or an arbor press.
If you cannot find a local shop with these capabilities let me know .
I
can probably do the job for you.
Gary Cheek
1971 Ambassador 1972 Eldorado Previous 1970 Ambassador 1973 Eldorado 1984 Ducati 900 SS 1974 Ducati 750 SS 1972 Ducati 450 ...And over 30 Bristish Bikes BTW Should you happen to come across asuitable broach NEVER withdraw
it
as was posted earlier. A broach is pused thru ,from one side to the other dragging it backwards will only dull the cutting edges. Paul Linn wrote:> ============================================================
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If this is aluminum do not heat red hot. It will melt first. If its aluminum drill the hole for the fastener tighten it up just enough to fit it
over
the end of the spline then tighten the bolt a little and tap it with a piece of wood so as not to mar the outside surface and when its on you'll
find
a spline. aluminum is soft. IIt won't hurt the spline. If your going
drill the hole close to outside diameter,heat spline red hot and
press
it in,let cool,done.Dont know if this will work,but its the only thing
I
can come up with,Mark.wwwmotoguzziclassics.com
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