Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing

AJ, Someone made a list once of the step-wise manner to tune a bike but yer
on your way.

Torque heads,
gap valves,
gap points,
gap spark plugs
synch carbs,
set idle
timing
set idle again

= I think that's how it goes. Bob HAwkes

-----Original Message-----
From: AJ Huff [mailto:ajh-@earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 4:55 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing

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Got 'er done yesterday and then the list was down for maintenance. How do I
know if I did it right? Valve lash is now restored to 0.15mm and 0.25mm
from about 0.30mm. So I assume this means I tightened them up.

Great help from everyone. I got the bolts re-torqued. I read in Guzziology
to loosen before re-torquing so I even did that. Followed a star pattern.

Everything back together and the bike did not blow up when started. Whew.
Still nervous though. Drove it around the block, about 2 miles. Seems to
run fine. Still difficult to maintain idle at a stop though. So maybe it
was not the valves, but am glad I did that anyway. Great learning process
and probably needed anyway.

Odd question, and I am not looking to create a problem that doesn't exist,
but... I don't know what a properly running Ambo is supposed to sound like.
After this valve adjustment I would describe the bike as sounding like a
high speed sewing machine. It is a fast ticking that seems to be in synch
with the exhaust pulses. Unfortunately I CAN"T tell you if it is louder
than before or more noticeable. I think I am only noticing it now because I
was just in those valve covers and am paying attention waiting for it to
blow up. But does this description sound normal or not?

Finally, on my idle speed, did the valves, should I now follow the manual
and reset the idle speed?

Thanks to all for their input and help,

-AJ

AJ Huff wrote:

Got it.

Left side is finished. Wife wants breakfast, so moment of truth in about
an hour and a half.

Thanks,

-AJ

Robert Hawkes wrote:

AJ, no need to torque the valve adjuster nut. Just hold the tappet
screw
with a needle nose plier and tighten the valve adjuster nut with an

open

end
wrench. You only need to torque the head nuts. Catch my drift? Bob
Hawkes

-----Original Message-----
From: AJ Huff [mailto:ajh-@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:54 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing

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Have the right side done I think. Boy 0.15mm seems tight to me. I don't
have a tappet wrench so I held them with a small pair of vice grips
while I tightened the nut. Beyond me how you can use a torque wrench

and

keep the tappet screw from turning at the same time.

Off to do the left side.

Thanks to everyone so far,

-AJ

Cam Conklin wrote:

Wow, that made a difference. THANKS! I measured 0.28mm intake and

0.30mm

exhaust. So that sounds like too loose rather than too tight, on

this

side at least.

Just follow those tappet adjustment instructions to tighten up?

Thanks,

-AJ

AJ, Once you get the valves set prior to tightening, make sure you

hold

the adjuster pin in the same exact position when you tighten down the
nut. They tend to move when you tighten, and it will throw off your
valve clearances. Recheck it to make sure, if it changes loosten the

nut

and try again. As I recall, re-tourque the heads (BEFORE valves
adjusted) to about 25-30 ft.lbs. Including the hex nut below the cap

top (12 O'clock). You need to remove the rocker arms to get to that

one.

Cam in NJ
'74 Eldo Police

AJ Huff
'71 Ambassador
Three Rivers, MI
MGNOC# 19917

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AJ Huff
'71 Ambassador
Three Rivers, MI
MGNOC# 19917

Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing

Author: Robert Hawkes

Date: Jun 5, 2005, 6:54 PM

Post ID: 1718976530

Entire thread: