Got 'er done yesterday and then the list was down for maintenance. How do I know if I did it right? Valve lash is now restored to 0.15mm and 0.25mm from about 0.30mm. So I assume this means I tightened them up.
Great help from everyone. I got the bolts re-torqued. I read in Guzziology to loosen before re-torquing so I even did that. Followed a star pattern.
Everything back together and the bike did not blow up when started. Whew. Still nervous though. Drove it around the block, about 2 miles. Seems to run fine. Still difficult to maintain idle at a stop though. So maybe it was not the valves, but am glad I did that anyway. Great learning process and probably needed anyway.
Odd question, and I am not looking to create a problem that doesn't exist, but... I don't know what a properly running Ambo is supposed to sound like. After this valve adjustment I would describe the bike as sounding like a high speed sewing machine. It is a fast ticking that seems to be in synch with the exhaust pulses. Unfortunately I CAN"T tell you if it is louder than before or more noticeable. I think I am only noticing it now because I was just in those valve covers and am paying attention waiting for it to blow up. But does this description sound normal or not?
Finally, on my idle speed, did the valves, should I now follow the manual and reset the idle speed?
Thanks to all for their input and help,
-AJ
AJ Huff wrote:
Got it.
Left side is finished. Wife wants breakfast, so moment of truth in about an hour and a half.
Thanks,
-AJ
Robert Hawkes wrote:
AJ, no need to torque the valve adjuster nut. Just hold the tappet screw with a needle nose plier and tighten the valve adjuster nut with an open end wrench. You only need to torque the head nuts. Catch my drift? Bob Hawkes
-----Original Message----- From: AJ Huff [mailto:ajh-@earthlink.net] Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:54 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing
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Have the right side done I think. Boy 0.15mm seems tight to me. I don't have a tappet wrench so I held them with a small pair of vice grips while I tightened the nut. Beyond me how you can use a torque wrench and
keep the tappet screw from turning at the same time.
Off to do the left side.
Thanks to everyone so far,
-AJ
Cam Conklin wrote:
Wow, that made a difference. THANKS! I measured 0.28mm intake and
0.30mm
exhaust. So that sounds like too loose rather than too tight, on
this
side at least.
Just follow those tappet adjustment instructions to tighten up?
Thanks,
-AJ
AJ, Once you get the valves set prior to tightening, make sure you hold the adjuster pin in the same exact position when you tighten down the nut. They tend to move when you tighten, and it will throw off your valve clearances. Recheck it to make sure, if it changes loosten the
nut
and try again. As I recall, re-tourque the heads (BEFORE valves adjusted) to about 25-30 ft.lbs. Including the hex nut below the cap on top (12 O'clock). You need to remove the rocker arms to get to that one.
Cam in NJ '74 Eldo Police
AJ Huff '71 Ambassador Three Rivers, MI MGNOC# 19917
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AJ Huff '71 Ambassador Three Rivers, MI MGNOC# 19917
AJ Huff '71 Ambassador Three Rivers, MI MGNOC# 19917