Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: Nuetral Switch/Now Electrical Question

Author: Keith Ruff

Date: Feb 21, 2005, 2:47 PM

Post ID: 1718430630



Ripped into the old fuse holder and found out it was a 25A fuse in
there. Question now is was this needed at all? I'm wondering if I have
a modified fuse panel that eliminated a fuse for the main power coming
from the battery which is why this in line fuse is at the battery side.
Anybody else have a fuse on their main power line coming to the fuse
panel/ignition from the battery?

Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ

Keith Ruff wrote:
 
Thanx Matt and Greg for the response. I was checking out the schematic
this eve and I can see what you mean. My brother and I were also
thinking of ideas and perhaps I need to check that the speedo
connections for those bulbs are working correctly (that all are getting
the 12V when the ignition is turned on). Perhaps the oil light is not
getting the 12V.

Bought a new inline fuse from Radio Shack, auto style fuse that has a
30A max rating. The tube style fuse assy only rated to 20A. Still
wondering what size was in the old one. Will go with a 20A 1st and see
what happens. Still wondering if it is needed, but will go ahead and
put it in anyways.

Any body have the procedure to adjust the neutral light switch?
Couldn't find it in the old Chilton manual, think it may be in the
owners manual which I don't have. I'm pretty sure that switch can be
adjusted so the light comes on and off as it should, just don't remember

how to adjust it.

Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ

Matt Moore wrote:
 
Keith,
voltage is supplied to all the idiot lights, which are grounded by their
various sensors/switches.

Matt

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