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Update: Took a look at the schematic, a look at Cam's Eldo, and another
look at my battery connections. I stand corrected on the inline fuse.
It does not hook up to the VR, that line is direct. The inline fuse is
for the power going to the fuse panel in the headlight. Should there be
a fuse or should I remove it?
Another thing I noted was that wire that connected to the speedo was not
a ground, but rather, looks to be a 12V line. The other end of this
wire connected to one end of the 10A fuse on the fuse panel, the 10A
fuse that blew out when this wire touched the handle bar riser. Looking
closer at the speedo, this wire connected to the block that housed all
of the warning lights. Why would there need to be 12V the block of
warning lights? Would that mean the actual connecions to the lamps
would be the ground connection to complete the circuit?
Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
Keith Ruff wrote:
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When thinhgs stopped working, the speedo was out. I was testing the
lights individually. I never ground anything to the frame, so I am
guessing perhaps the one wire that was plugged into the speedo was
indeed a ground and that could have caused the short. Was also
wondering if anybody else has this inline fuse between the battery and
VR or if that was put in by the previous owner.
Thanx.
Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
Robert Hawkes wrote:
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Keith, I am not real good with electricity but bumping the rear wheel,
with
attendant sparks definitely could have blown that fuse. Also, when you
were
working on your dash lights did you have the dash grounded, in other
words
with the dash off did you have a test lead clamped to the dash and one
to
the bike frame? Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Ruff [mailto:klru-@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 5:32 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Nuetral Switch/Now Electrical Question
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I have a single speedo, some sort of Veglia (not stock). Has black
face, white numbers, black ring around the glass and a tripometer. Has
4 idiot lights.
I took the housing off to check the lights situation as well as to
polish the housing. What I found and what happened is interesting and
confusing. The parking lamp bulb was burned out, also found that the
oil bulb was out. When I took one of the known good bulbs and put it in
the parking lamp slot, it worked when I grounded it to it's housing.
When I took a known good bulb and put it in the oil lamp and grounded it
to the same housing, it did not. Hmmmmm. I pulled out the meter,
checked for continuity from the lamp to the oil pressure switch
(disconnected the wire from the switch), good, got connection. Hooked
the wire back to the switch, turned the key on, and got no voltage
showing at the lamp. Go figure. At this point, I took the speedo out
and housing off, then messed around again for awhile. Next thing I
noticed, nothing worked. Uh Oh, something must have shorted out, but
what and why? BTW, what is the single wire going to the speedo for?
Can I assume it was a ground wire and that was what caused my short?
Took the cafe fairing off, removed the headlight, and found a blown 10
amp fuse where the ignition switch hot lead (red) connects to the fuse
panel. Changed it and took a chance to see if all was well and nada, no
lights no nothin. Got the meter out again, no 12 volts present anywhere
on the fuse panel, OK, the battery juice ain't makin it up to the fuse
panel, lets go see whats up at the battery end. Low and behold, I found
an inline fuse connecting the positive battery terminal to the voltage
regulator. Now:
1. Is this supposed to be there? Looks like something the previous
owner wired up.
2. If it is supposed to be there, what size fuse is supposed to be in
there?
When I opened up this inline fuse, I noticed the holder was not a good
design. Part of the fuse (the metal cap) got jammed in one end, the
other came out without a problem. So now I looking at a metal end with
glass cylinder and half of the metal fuse, the other end stuck (and it
aint coming out) in the other half of this inline fuse holder.
Unfortunately, the stuck end has the amperage rating on it, so I have no
idea what size this fuse is, looks like perhaps a 30 amper. So now my
last questions are:
1. See question 1 above, if this is not supposed to be here, I'll
splice the line together. What guage wire should be used from the
battery to the VR?
2. What could have caused both this fuse and the 10 amp fuse in the
headlamp to blow? I did notice last eve when putting the rear wheel
back on (more polishing last eve!) that something in the area of the VR
sparked when the wheel bumped it on it's way back in (remember I have no
fender on the bike). Perhaps that blew out the 10A fuse on the
headlight?
Thanx for any help!
Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
Paul P. Linn wrote:
| |
Keith,
What speedo are you using?
Paul
73 Eldo "Elvira" 949 conversion
74 Eldo "Daisy" undergoing a full police restoration
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Ruff [mailto:klru-@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 1:59 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Nuetral Switch
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Was just checking out the speedo warning lights. When I turn the key
on, I get a red and orange light, a blue one comes on with the high
beam, and the other not at all. It got me wondering what lights were
what. I know the red one is probably the gen light, but the orange one,
which I thought was the nuetral indicator light, did not go out when I
pulled in the clutch and put it in 1st gear (verified it was in 1st gear
by turning the rear wheel and felt 1st gear moving). I know there is a
way of adjusting the nuetral switch but can't remember how. Can someone
refresh my memory? Also, why would the last light (probably the oil
warning light) not go on with the key in the on position, unless the
bulb is shot.
Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
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