Subject: Re: FORK SEALS
Author: Ross
Date: Aug 16, 2002, 6:46 AM
Post ID: 1710817941
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I took them off in tandem with few problems, and used the proper fork seal
holder tool with no problems except make sure it seats well or you may round
off the lip (had to dremel to remove the burr I made). I did soak the
threads overnight with penetrating oil.
Watch well if you've left the wheel on, those forks love to follow gravity
and the wheel will help them along the way.
Also, the biggest problem I did have was removing the tubes from the lower
clamps, too much crud/corrosion built up over the years. Soaking and
pulling and tapping (this could be the chorus to a song) did the job.
Best of luck,
Ross
on 8/16/02 05:38, Robert Hawkes at 3haw-@bluefrognet.net wrote:
Mike,
Thanks for the tip on the Brenton site. Also wondering, can I get the forks
apart in tandem, that is by leaving the front wheel in place and just
detaching the brake cable or do I have to take the wheel off and remove each
fork leg, one at a time? Just asking on account of I know some BMW guys
that take the forks off in tandem. Thanks again. BOb
----- Original Message -----
From: EldoMike <mailto:msse-@classicguzzi.com>
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: FORK SEALS
Hi Bob...get the couple of tools from Stephen...makes the job MUCh
easier....here's his link...
http://www.awod.com/gallery/rwav/sbrenton/
Mike
www.classicguzzi.com <http://www.classicguzzi.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Hawkes <mailto:3haw-@bluefrognet.net>
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: FORK SEALS
Here's a question. How easy/difficult is it to change the fork seals on a
69 Ambo.? I find I have no oil left in my forks. Do I need special tools?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Hawkes <mailto:3haw-@bluefrognet.net>
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: head torquing
You'er right again. The editor of Premier may have had a few too many the
night before.
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Hayes <mailto:peha-@aol.com>
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: head torquing
In a message dated 08/12/2002 5:34:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
3haw-@bluefrognet.net writes:
Uh, oh Patrick, you just made my blood run cold. What is the proper way to
reassemble rocker arm springs and washers? Bob
HAH! You'd know if you did it wrong. Early in my loop days, I was
reassmbling the rocker shafts. I couldn't remember how they came apart, so
I looked in my Premier Motors restoration book. Just follow the picture.
Only problem was that the printer had turned the photograph 90 degrees
before printing. So, when I thought I was looking at the left side head, I
was, in fact, looking at the right side. What I thought was up, was down.
The springs and washers go on the TOP end of the rockers and I had mounted
them on the bottom.
Man, what a noise. I stopped the engine and reassembled properly after I
realized the book printing error. Go look at page 16 if you can find an
original Premier Motors manual. Funny how the little distributor is located
BELOW the cylinder.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
EV, EV, SPII, Monza, SuperAlce, SR50
MGNOC L-403
MGCGB 92558
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<TITLE>Re: FORK SEALS</TITLE>
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I took them off in tandem with few problems, and used the proper fork seal holder tool with no problems except make sure it seats well or you may round off the lip (had to dremel to remove the burr I made). I did soak the threads overnight with penetrating oil.<BR>
Watch well if you've left the wheel on, those forks love to follow gravity and the wheel will help them along the way.<BR>
Also, the biggest problem I did have was removing the tubes from the lower clamps, too much crud/corrosion built up over the years. Soaking and pulling and tapping (this could be the chorus to a song) did the job.<BR>
Best of luck,<BR>
Ross <BR>
on 8/16/02 05:38, Robert Hawkes at 3haw-@bluefrognet.net wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT COLOR="#000080"><FONT SIZE="4"><B>Mike,<BR>
Thanks for the tip on the Brenton site. Also wondering, can I get the forks apart in tandem, that is by leaving the front wheel in place and just detaching the brake cable or do I have to take the wheel off and remove each fork leg, one at a time? Just asking on account of I know some BMW guys that take the forks off in tandem. Thanks again. BOb<BR>
</B></FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE>----- Original Message ----- <BR>
<B>From:</B> EldoMike <mailto:msse-@classicguzzi.com> <BR>
<B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com <BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Friday, August 16, 2002 8:14 AM<BR>
<B>Subject:</B> Re: FORK SEALS<BR>
<BR>
<FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial">Hi Bob...get the couple of tools from Stephen...makes the job MUCh easier....here's his link...<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial">http://www.awod.com/gallery/rwav/sbrenton/<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
Mike<BR>
www.classicguzzi.com <http://www.classicguzzi.com> <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>----- Original Message ----- <BR>
<B>From:</B> Robert Hawkes <mailto:3haw-@bluefrognet.net> <BR>
<B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com <BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:46 PM<BR>
<B>Subject:</B> FORK SEALS<BR>
<BR>
<FONT COLOR="#000080"><FONT SIZE="4"><B>Here's a question. How easy/difficult is it to change the fork seals on a 69 Ambo.? I find I have no oil left in my forks. Do I need special tools? Bob<BR>
</B></FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE>----- Original Message ----- <BR>
<B>From:</B> Robert Hawkes <mailto:3haw-@bluefrognet.net> <BR>
<B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com <BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:26 PM<BR>
<B>Subject:</B> Re: head torquing<BR>
<BR>
<FONT COLOR="#000080"><FONT SIZE="4"><B>You'er right again. The editor of Premier may have had a few too many the night before.<BR>
</B></FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE>----- Original Message ----- <BR>
<B>From:</B> Patrick Hayes <mailto:peha-@aol.com> <BR>
<B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com <BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 12, 2002 11:41 PM<BR>
<B>Subject:</B> Re: head torquing<BR>
<BR>
<FONT SIZE="2">In a message dated 08/12/2002 5:34:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 3haw-@bluefrognet.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT COLOR="#000080"><FONT SIZE="4"><FONT FACE="Arial"><B>Uh, oh Patrick, you just made my blood run cold. What is the proper way to reassemble rocker arm springs and washers? Bob<BR>
</B></FONT></FONT></FONT><BR>
<FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial"><BR>
HAH! You'd know if you did it wrong. Early in my loop days, I was reassmbling the rocker shafts. I couldn't remember how they came apart, so I looked in my Premier Motors restoration book. Just follow the picture.<BR>
<BR>
Only problem was that the printer had turned the photograph 90 degrees before printing. So, when I thought I was looking at the left side head, I was, in fact, looking at the right side. What I thought was up, was down. The springs and washers go on the TOP end of the rockers and I had mounted them on the bottom. <BR>
<BR>
Man, what a noise. I stopped the engine and reassembled properly after I realized the book printing error. Go look at page 16 if you can find an original Premier Motors manual. Funny how the little distributor is located BELOW the cylinder.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Patrick Hayes<BR>
Fremont CA<BR>
EV, EV, SPII, Monza, SuperAlce, SR50<BR>
MGNOC L-403<BR>
MGCGB 92558</FONT></FONT> <BR>
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