I will post a pic for you ,stay tuned ! Yes it did father a few offspring. The "hook wrench" is the next best but they are usually too short and when pushed to the torque required they tend to distort the nut. Retorque is not needed when sufficient initial torque is used in conjunction with the frame clamps. murp-@aol.com wrote:
Jesse, A couple of weeks ago I went to a tool distributor and had quite a hard time describing a hook wrench, but ended up getting one. I can't imagine what would happen if I went in there and asked for a "castellated wrench which drives on the TANGENT". Could you tell me how large this is (and maybe what it looks like), how much one costs, and where one could get something like this. Thanks, Brian '74 Eldo '78 T3 '76 T3 basket
Jesse Open wrote:
It IS the choice of so many POs :-)) Of course if you use the RIGHT wrench you won't have to worry about TAKING a "hook" wrench WITH YOU !!! Zerhackermann wrote:
A hook wrench works just fine.
-----Original Message----- From: Jesse Open [mailto:Beaver-@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 1:49 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: exhaust probs
First GET RID OF THE LOCKNUT ! It only pulls the gland nut AWAY from the gasket ring and DECREASES the pressure you are relying on to seal the joint. They MAY work OK if you have little wear on the threads but you are far better off to PROPERLY tighten the gland nut WITHOUT the lock ring. The original chrome plated brass gland nuts were very easy on the aluminum threads and also had a higher coefficient of thermal expansion which actually caused them to hold better when hot. A properly tightened nut will hold until you WANT to take it apart. Most of the problems come from people afraid to tighten them fully for fear of stripping the threads. A little high temp PERMATEX ANTI SIEZE and a LOT of ttorque with the PROPER tool are required ! Pipe wrenches , spanner wrenches ,hammer and punch , basin wrenches etc. are NOT the proper tool. A castellated wrench that drive on the TANGENT is the best way . The others tend to distort the tubular gland nut long before the proper torque is achieved. They may work now and then but to be sure the good tool is a must. If you don't have access to the right tool ,email me and you may borrow mine. IT WILL WORK !! :-) Martin Cooke wrote:
to whoever wrote this (i've lost track):
"cookie I always thought exhaust if it pops letting off the throttle and intake air leak if it popped getting on the throtle? B."
an air leak at the exhaust manifold will pop on the over run. an air leak on the intake will just make it run weak in my experience.
now if anyone knows how to stop an eldo getting a loose joint at the head/downpipe i'd like to know. got a friends bike doing this all the time. NOT the nut coming loose (it's the locknut type), it just eats the gasket after a few miles, air gets in, backfires like crazy. i put new
gaskets
in & it's fine for a while, then same thing.
it started happening when new mufflers were fitted with rear balance pipe removed. i think it may be to do with the pipes moving & flattening off the gaskets. however the exhaust assy doesn't appear to be moving any more than stock.
i must have put 6 sets of ex gaskets in that bike & i'm getting fed up
now.
cookie
----- Original Message ----- From: "E. C. Bud Durdle" <bu-@olympus.net> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 1:46 AM Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 861
On Wednesday 24 July 2002 10:16 pm, you wrote:
I heard a little while ago that the popping could be from looseness at the head/exhaust header joint, or somewhere close to that. Check to make sure the exhaust is tight up there, and/or has no leaks.
I am working on a 74 Eldo I just picked up with Amal Carbs. When I
let
off the throttle and am gearing down it pops through the mufflers. I have played with the air screws and it
has gotten better, but it is still
there. I have checked the carb intake gaskets and they are fine. Someone
told me this is a common problem with running amals on a Guzzi. Any ideas