Subject: RE: Clutch springs
Author: Kevin Graf
Date: May 30, 2001, 11:01 AM
Post ID: 1706923538
Joe, Thanks for the reply. The first thing we thought of was a leaking
RR main or trans seal, unfortunatly, nothing like that presented itself
as a clue upon disassembly. The plates are dry. Then I thought of a
warpped steel plate, nope.
The springs not seating themselves is a total possibility, but one I'd
like to see confirmed before reassembly if I can.
The splines running to the plates looked good, but I'd have to say I
need to check them again.
I'm still curious about the short springs though. Going from 1.090"
(used springs)to 1.050" for the new ones does not make sense. If the
springs are too short at free standing, how will they have enough length
to spread the plates? and to keep them apart?
Please feel free to stick me in the corner w/ the cone hat if I got this
backwords.
Thanks again,
Kev
joe jump wrote:
| Just went through the drill on a V7 Sport and an 850T. I believe construction to be identical. My Sport had a slipping clutch, caused by gear oil migrating up the clutch push rod. I replaced the friction plates, springs (cheap), and the clutch pushrod seals, along with engine rear main & transmission input seal/O-rings. The hub looked to have minimal wear so did not replace. Very lightly lubed splines on hub, friction plates, intermediate plate & flywheel with BMW spline grease, after cleaning all parts spotless. Put it all back together following instructions in shop manual & verified with Chilton, using Guzzi factory clutch spring compresor. Clutch no longer slipped but would not disengage cleanly. Took it apart again searching for the problem. Ultimately, I think my problem was that not all 8 of the clutch springs were seated in the spring pockets in the pressure plate. On my machine, the punch mark on the spline of the pressure plate will not align perfectly with the arrow on the outside edge of the flywheel, so the pressure plate can be installed in two positions and be alligned equal amounts off from "dead nuts". This could have been a contributor. But the pockets on the pressure plate are dimensioned pretty tight to the OD of the clutch springs (tighter than those in the flywheel), and it seemed that I wasn't getting them all seated correctly. I tried numerous attempts at assmbling, but I think I got it right by fitting the springs into the pressure plate first, then mating the pressure plate to the flywheel. Another contributing factor may have been that the replacement friction plates (new, not reconditioned) were a sloppier fit on the hub than the oil soaked used plates that I had replaced. I decided to either clean up and reuse my old plates, or replace the (almost) new 2mm spline friction plates & the old hub with new 4mm plates & hub. To MGs credit, they swapped plates (no charge) and sold me a new 4mm hub at a good price. The friction plates are Sureflex, and the splines are a snug , free running fit on the hub. These are the same parts I put in the 850T and quality was the same. Only thing I can envision destroying the throwout bearing is incorrect assembly-sorry, no help there. To summarize, slipping clutch is probably caused from oil-contaminated plates or extreemly weak springs. Clutch drag is caused by pressure plate not lifting squarely (springs not located correctly) or notchy clutch hub/loose spline fit. Can't help with the throw out bearing other than improper assembly. Good Luck! _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com |
Kev