Subject: RE: (MGCL) chrome shops???
Author: Paul P. Linn
Date: Feb 16, 2005, 8:26 AM
Post ID: 1718401561
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Bruce,
The hole is not for a setscrew, it's for a grease fitting. And yes the
bushing must come out prior to plating. I tapped mine out before I took it
in. Who's in Norfolk?
Paul
73 Eldo "Elvira" 949 conversion
74 Eldo "Daisy" undergoing a full police restoration
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Daniels [mailto:bruced-@mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 11:22 AM
To: rgma-@netzero.net; MG-@topica.com; Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: (MGCL) chrome shops???
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You piqued my interest Rich. I am a newbie - I bought a 70 Police Ambo about
two years ago and have been working on some rusted parts - been using 'never
dull' cuz that is what the PO had been using. But, you need to keep using it
often, so I thought I would try preparing one part for chrome plating and
see how it comes out before plating anymore parts. Your story is encouraging
and Norfolk is not that far from Raleigh.
I started on the Brake Pedal for two reasons, (1) it had a rough finish and
(2) the bushing needs to be replaced - pedal wobbles from side to side. So,
having never ventured into something like this I need to ask some questions.
I assume the bushing has to be removed before plating the pedal - by that I
mean to ask if the bushing can be masked someway and then deal with removing
and replacing it after plating? The reason I ask is that the plater needs a
way to hold the pedal while dipping it into the tank and the thought
occurred to me that maybe if I leave the bushing in, a hook could be
inserted through that hole and then mask it somehow. But, then maybe I would
screw up the plating when I knocked the old bushing out to replace it. These
questions are probably for the plater, but I thought you might have some
experience with this.
Does the bushing have to be fabricated or does anybody know if they are
available somewhere? The bushing has a hole in it to allow a set screw to
bottom out against a steel shaft to hold the pedal on.
I put some time in polishing - got a kit from Caswell - but I have been
wondering how much is enough? Except for logical thinking that the more you
work on it the better the part will look. I attached two photos to give you
an idea what it looks like now and a close up of that hole for the set screw
(through the bushing).
Bruce Daniels
NC Tarheel
70 Ambo 14720
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich <mailto:rgma-@netzero.net> Maund
To: MG-@topica.com
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: (MGCL) chrome shops???
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Nine years ago I used "Royal Silver", a plating company here in Norfolk Va.
I was warned to expect high prices, but I'd get what I paid for.
They charged me $150 to replate a Guzzi luggage rack for my Mille' GT. The
rack only cost $125 new, but it's factory plating was very poorly done. I
added some hard points to it to attach some hard bags to and had them
re-chrome it. They also did some "U" shaped fender stays for me which were
quite pitted. $40 each.
I was told 2-3 weeks to do the job.
NINE weeks later, when I am going out of my mind worrying if they lost my
pieces, I finally get the call that they're done. I drive over there and
whattaya know? They can't find my order. Yeesh! I have to stand there for
half an hour while they search around. Then they find them. They're
carefully wrapped. I unwrap them for inspection. OH MY GAWD! They look
incredible. The factories never made parts like this! Absolutely beautiful.
I think the guys are right. You will get what you pay for in chroming. It's
labor intensive work and expensive to do. I would beware of any shop that
quotes too cheap a price. You'll wind up with Guzzi factory style chroming
(i.e. No polishing, no copper or nickel beneath the chrome and the first
time the part flexes, the chrome will peel.) That would be money wasted.
Rich Maund
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark <mailto:dryde-@aol.com>
To: MG-@topica.com
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 6:12 AM
Subject: (MGCL) chrome shops???
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Andy wrote:
| anyone have a good, but cheap, reference for chroming? supposidly, there is a shop in buffalo, ny, |
Tim's idea of just replacing small parts is a good one. Chroming is
expensive. I just dropped off some antique car parts at an industrial
plater in Syracuse, NY to get chromed. "HMQ Metal Finishers". I'll let you
know how they are in a few weeks. Industrial platers are usually cheaper
than show quality chrome shops but, as usual, you get what you pay for.
Upstate Mark
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<DIV><SPAN class=832182716-16022005>Bruce,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=832182716-16022005></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=832182716-16022005>The hole is not for a setscrew, it's for a
grease fitting. And yes the bushing must come out prior to plating. I tapped
mine out before I took it in. Who's in Norfolk?</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV align=left>
<DIV align=left><SPAN class=508385223-12122004>Paul</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=508385223-12122004>73 Eldo "Elvira" 949 conversion</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=508385223-12122004>74 Eldo "Daisy" undergoing a full police
restoration</SPAN></DIV></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bruce Daniels
[mailto:bruced-@mindspring.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 16,
2005 11:22 AM<BR><B>To:</B> rgma-@netzero.net; MG-@topica.com;
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: (MGCL) chrome
shops???<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><PRE>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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</PRE>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>You piqued my interest Rich. I am a
newbie - I bought a 70 Police Ambo about two years ago and have been
working on some rusted parts - been using 'never dull' cuz that is what the PO
had been using. But, you need to keep using it often, so I thought I
would try preparing one part for chrome plating and see how it comes out
before plating anymore parts. Your story is encouraging and Norfolk
is not that far from Raleigh. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I started on the Brake Pedal for two
reasons, (1) it had a rough finish and (2) the bushing needs to be
replaced - pedal wobbles from side to side. So, having never ventured into
something like this I need to ask some questions. I assume the bushing
has to be removed before plating the pedal - by that I mean to ask if the
bushing can be masked someway and then deal with removing and replacing it
after plating? The reason I ask is that the plater needs a way to hold the
pedal while dipping it into the tank and the thought occurred to me that maybe
if I leave the bushing in, a hook could be inserted through that hole and then
mask it somehow. But, then maybe I would screw up the plating when I knocked
the old bushing out to replace it. These questions are probably for the
plater, but I thought you might have some experience with this.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Does the bushing have to be
fabricated or does anybody know if they are available somewhere? The bushing
has a hole in it to allow a set screw to bottom out against a steel shaft to
hold the pedal on.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I put some time in polishing - got a
kit from Caswell - but I have been wondering how much is enough? Except for
logical thinking that the more you work on it the better the part will look. I
attached two photos to give you an idea what it looks like now and a close up
of that hole for the set screw (through the bushing).</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Bruce Daniels</DIV>
<DIV>NC Tarheel</DIV>
<DIV>70 Ambo 14720</DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=r-@netzero.net href="mailto:rgma-@netzero.net">Rich
Maund</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title-@topica.com
href="mailto:MG-@topica.com">MG-@topica.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, February 05, 2005 11:15
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: (MGCL) chrome
shops???</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><PRE>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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</PRE>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Nine years ago I used "Royal
Silver", a plating company here in Norfolk Va. I was warned to expect high
prices, but I'd get what I paid for.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>They charged me $150 to replate a
Guzzi luggage rack for my Mille' GT. The rack only cost $125 new, but it's
factory plating was very poorly done. I added some hard points to it to
attach some hard bags to and had them re-chrome it. They also did some "U"
shaped fender stays for me which were quite pitted. $40 each.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I was told 2-3 weeks to do the
job.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>NINE weeks later, when I am going
out of my mind worrying if they lost my pieces, I finally get the call that
they're done. I drive over there and whattaya know? They can't find my
order. Yeesh! I have to stand there for half an hour while they search
around. Then they find them. They're carefully wrapped. I unwrap them for
inspection. OH MY GAWD! They look incredible. The factories never made parts
like this! Absolutely beautiful.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I think the guys are right. You
will get what you pay for in chroming. It's labor intensive work and
expensive to do. I would beware of any shop that quotes too cheap a price.
You'll wind up with Guzzi factory style chroming (i.e. No polishing, no
copper or nickel beneath the chrome and the first time the part
flexes, the chrome will peel.) That would be money wasted.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Rich Maund</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=dr-@aol.com href="mailto:dryde-@aol.com">Mark</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title-@topica.com
href="mailto:MG-@topica.com">MG-@topica.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, February 05, 2005
6:12 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> (MGCL) chrome shops???</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><PRE>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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</PRE>
<DIV>Andy wrote:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> >anyone have a good, but cheap, reference for
chroming? </DIV>
<DIV>>supposidly, there is a shop in buffalo, ny, </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Tim's idea of just replacing small parts is a good one.
Chroming is expensive. I just dropped off some antique car parts at
an industrial plater in Syracuse, NY to get chromed. "HMQ Metal
Finishers". I'll let you know how they are in a few weeks.
Industrial platers are usually cheaper than show quality chrome shops but,
as usual, you get what you pay for.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Upstate Mark</DIV>
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