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Brian Murphy wrote:
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Rob,
When I was restoring my Eldo, I took a look at the electrical
schematic, and a lot of it made no sense to me. I think that the
designers only like to make incremental changes so as to keep the wiring
similar over many years. The result is that you have a lot of add-ons to
make the new system work with the smallest design change, but which ends
up being unnecessarily complex. I especially didn't like the fact that
power for the lights (headlights and turn indicators) are switched
through the sub-standard stock handlebar switches.
Anyway, I completely redesigned the whole system using automotive
relays and fuses. I mounted all of this on a homemade circuit board
containing all relays, fuses, and connectors. This is mounted behind the
left side battery cover. In order to make it fit, I mounted the battery
in a fore-and-aft position (rotated 90 degrees from the stock transverse
position - there is room because I have K&N's air filters in place of
the stock airbox). There is nothing in the headlight shell except for
the headlamp connector.
I'm not sure I would recommend doing this to a bike which is not
disassembled, as there is a lot of wiring required (however, I did use
most of a new wiring harness to start with). I have everything
documented and would gladly send it to anyone who is interested (have to
get it scanned first).
A few postings back, there was a question about what changes should
be made to improve a restoration, so I will list the mods (aside from
the electrical system already described).
1. I added a second disk in the front of my '74 Eldo. An alternative
would be to use a modern caliper and replace the stock master cylinder
with a smaller diameter unitto increase the mechanical advantage. This
would avoid the increase in unsprung weight which a second disk adds.
2. When I had the engine disassembled, I sent it to Moto International
and had the block machined to take an oil filter. I replaced the stock
Eldo pan with a T-3 pan, so now I have an oil filter.
3. I also added a sump spacer, which increases oil capacity and reduces
crankcase pressure.
4. I put on Gilardoni 949 cc nikasil piston/cylinders.
5. Engine was assembled with a B-10 cam. Dave Richardson recommended
this cam, which gives better midrange power and power at higher rpm.
6. I replaced the rear hub with an 850-T rear hub, which contains a cush
drive, which is easier on the transmission. The 850-T works because
(unlike a T-3) it has a drum rear brake.
7. I replaced the final drive ring/pinion gears with a set from an
Ambassador. I wanted lower revs on the highway, and this gives about a
3% reduction - not great, but something.
8. I used a Tomasselli 2C throttle (as used in a T-3), which is much
smoother than the stock superpratic.
9. I used progressive wound fork springs (can't remember the
manufacturer), which together with the new dampers, give an extra 1/2
inch travel.
10. I put in the new-style deep (4mm) spline clutch hub together with
new deep-spline clutch plates. The older 2mm deep splines sometimes
cause problems when they get notched after age and/or heavy use.
11. I used stainless steel Napoleon mirrors. The right hand mirror is
mounted on the right side master cylinder cylinder/brake lever housing.
For the left side, I added an aluminum fitting to the clutch lever
housing, to which the left side is attached. I really like these
mirrors. The images are rock-solid, unlike the images using the stock
set-up.
Those are the mods which I think add to the usability of the bike.
Brian
'74 Eldo
'76 T-3 in parts.
'76 R90S
Rob Prins wrote:
| | More great info, I prefer the looks of the panel mountable socket over
the harness type.
By the way, just curious if anyone has a PC board anywhere on their
loop.
Rob
Greg Bender wrote:
| | I emailed Dan Prunuske about relay sockets for the smaller automotive
type micro relays, he provided this information to me:
Sockets are readily available from many sources, BUT I can't find any
that
will gang together with the ones on Guzzis. Almost all the sockets I
have
seen can be ganged together, but they all use a different system. If you
are planning to fashion your own mounting system,
http://www.waytekwire.com/carries Bosch sockets. These are great folks
to
deal with and their prices are decent. They have two versions: Bosch 3
334
485 045 (Waytek 75290) and Bosch 3 334 485 049 (Waytek 75292). The
former
is a panel mount and the latter is a PC board mount.
Cheers,
Dan
Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
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Brian Murphy
'74 Eldorado
'78 T-3
'76 R90S
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last one that I did I left the eng stock |