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Well, my plates are measuring exactly 8mm thick, so there's no wear to
speak
of. The clutch hub looks flawless, the transmission input looks great.
The
only thing that might make me worry a *little bit* (advice wanted) is
that
when I put the clutch plates onto the transmission input they aren't on
real
tight, they shift a bit side to side. Is this a problem?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bender" <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 6:34 AM
Subject: RE: Generator Bracket Question
Hi Ian,
New clutch plates are 8 mm thick each. The Guzzi minimum wear limit is
7.5 mm thick each.
Ian Adkins wrote:
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Hi All,
I began tearing into Baretta's engine yesterday. Everything looked ok as
I
removed the ring gear, clutch assembly and flywheel. Lots of clutch dust
had
accumulated but everything looked solid. Does anyone know the wear
limits on
the plates? The ones in there had a fair bit left but I'll likley go
with
new clutch plates anyways. That will leave me with two sets of plates
with a
fair bit of material on them...but I've done my time removing engines to
get
to the plates :-)
As for the generator bracket...looked like the PO (or whomever did the
work)
had been too lazy to remove the oil line to get a straight shot at the
bolts
so installed them at an angle. I'll have to helicoil (or timesert as
suggested). What is the diameter that should be used to predrill the
hole? I
am wondering if the aluminum might be weakened by drilling the tap hole.
I
am assuming that I should red loctite the inserts in place?
I will get to the top end tonight. Feels good to finally get into the
engine....Ian
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Keith:
The generator should be pretty solid, while you have the tank off you
should definitely take a few minutes and take the generator off to
inspect the bracket. I've seen them cracked on the bottom between a
mounting hole and the side; sometimes a bolt comes loose and strips out
the aluminum threads in the engine case, possibly from being overtorqued
by someone before it got to you; always be mindful when cranking down on
a bolt threaded into softer aluminum threads. In one instance a PO
broke off one of the bolts in the case and retapped the remains for a
smaller one, nice piece of bodge work.
I've welded another piece of steel over the complete bottom of the
inside of the bracket as a repair (doesn't change the tension
dimension), and have done the standard repair of helicoils (better yet,
Timesertshttp://www.timesert.com/) and replaced the bolts with
locktited studs with nylock nuts and star lockwashers to hold the
bracket down. You'll need an angle drill attachment to do this with the
engine in the frame, I can lend you one if you go that route..
John Prusnek |
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Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
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