Subject: RE: I'm Looped!

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Steve, Actual name of this stuff is 'Blaster'. Any auto parts place would
have it, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, NAPA. like that. BOb

_____

From: Steve Farris [mailto:nmwi-@msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 6:40 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: I'm Looped!

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bob, where do you get this blast you speak of

steve

----- Original Message -----

From: Robert Hawkes <mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz>

To: Loopfram-@topica.com

Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 4:44 AM

Subject: RE: I'm Looped!

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Keith, Send pics of this bike so we can see her before and after.
You can check trueness of the front wheel by lifting front of bike off
ground and attaching a dial indicator to the side of the front wheel. You
can check runout that way. Put bike into neutral, lift up back and maybe
you can do the same for the rear. Obviously check spoke tighness by tapping
each spoke with small screwdriver and listen for dead tones.
If you have runout on either wheel you can true the wheel yourself, just
takes a lot of time adjusting each spoke and its opposite spoke. You may
want to spray each spoke nipple with Blaster so you are turning just the
nipple and not the spoke and then snap a spoke, not good. Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Ruff [mailto:klru-@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 8:28 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: I'm Looped!

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Greetings fellow owners. Well, I once again am an owner of a loopframe,
this time a 70 Ambo thanx to Mick LeTourneaux of this board. Bike seems
mechanically sound and clean enough to ride, but I plan on polishing her
to the max and giving her a cafe style racer look. She is all black
with the std chrome, so my plan is to carry out the black & chrome theme
throughout the bike. Mick has the std/low bars on her now, and she
seems to sit lower than Patience (think the Progressive shocks are
shorter than stock). She definitely runs well, Mick believes the PO
installed a lightened flywheel - she really kicks in 2nd gear. I'm sure
I will have several questions as I start the project, but my initial
questions are:

1. It appears the cylinder heads were once painted black. They are now
faded out to a gray, what type of paint can I use to respray the
cylinders a nice black color?

2. Does anybody know how to or somebody whom can check that the
wheels/spokes are true. I want to paint sections of the wheels, but
want to make sure they are straight before painting them. How would I
go about painting them? Will the wheels accept paint as they are or do
they need to be stipped and/or primed prior to being painted?

That's all for now, thanx for any inputs.

Keith Ruff
Manahawkin, NJ

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Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
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Steve, Actual name of this stuff is ‘Blaster’.
Any auto parts place would have it, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">NAPA</st1:place></st1:City>… like that. BOb<o:p></o:p>

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From: Steve Farris
[mailto:nmwi-@msn.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004
6:40 AM 
To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Loopfram-@topica.com</st1:PersonName> 
Subject: Re: I'm Looped!<o:p></o:p>

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<o:p> </o:p>

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bob, where do you get
this blast you speak of<o:p></o:p>

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steve<o:p></o:p>

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----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p>

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From: <a href="mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz">Robert Hawkes</a> <o:p></o:p>

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To: <a href="mailto:Loopfram-@topica.com">Loopfram-@topica.com</a>
<o:p></o:p>

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Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 4:44 AM<o:p></o:p>

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Subject: RE: I'm Looped!<o:p></o:p>

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<o:p> </o:p>

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Keith, Send pics of this bike so we can see her before and after. 
You can check trueness of the front wheel by lifting front of bike off 
ground and attaching a dial indicator to the side of the front wheel. You 
can check runout that way. Put bike into neutral, lift up back and maybe 
you can do the same for the rear. Obviously check spoke tighness by
tapping 
each spoke with small screwdriver and listen for dead tones. 
If you have runout on either wheel you can true the wheel yourself, just 
takes a lot of time adjusting each spoke and its opposite spoke. You may 
want to spray each spoke nipple with Blaster so you are turning just the 
nipple and not the spoke and then snap a spoke, not good. Bob 
-----Original Message----- 
From: Keith Ruff [mailto:klru-@comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 8:28 PM 
To: <a href="mailto:Loopfram-@topica.com">Loopfram-@topica.com</a> 
Subject: I'm Looped! 
 
Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: 
------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon? 
Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS! 
Get NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area. 
<a href="http://click.topica.com/caacKOVb1dfltb7ukc8a/LeadClick">http://click.topica.com/caacKOVb1dfltb7ukc8a/LeadClick</a> 
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Greetings fellow owners. Well, I once again am an owner of a loopframe, 
this time a 70 Ambo thanx to Mick LeTourneaux of this board. Bike seems 
mechanically sound and clean enough to ride, but I plan on polishing her 
to the max and giving her a cafe style racer look. She is all black 
with the std chrome, so my plan is to carry out the black & chrome theme 
throughout the bike. Mick has the std/low bars on her now, and she 
seems to sit lower than Patience (think the Progressive shocks are 
shorter than stock). She definitely runs well, Mick believes the <st1:place
w:st="on">PO</st1:place> 
installed a lightened flywheel - she really kicks in 2nd gear. I'm sure 
I will have several questions as I start the project, but my initial 
questions are: 
 
1. It appears the cylinder heads were once painted black. They are
now 
faded out to a gray, what type of paint can I use to respray the 
cylinders a nice black color? 
 
2. Does anybody know how to or somebody whom can check that the 
wheels/spokes are true. I want to paint sections of the wheels, but 
want to make sure they are straight before painting them. How would I 
go about painting them? Will the wheels accept paint as they are or do 
they need to be stipped and/or primed prior to being painted? 
 
That's all for now, thanx for any inputs. 
 
Keith Ruff 
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Manahawkin</st1:City>, <st1:State
w:st="on">NJ</st1:State></st1:place> 
 
Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: 
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Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: 
------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Go on a Cruise for Free!<o:p></o:p>

<pre>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>-------------------------------------------------------------------<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon? <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS!<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Get NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><a
href="http://click.topica.com/caacKOVb1dfltb7ukc8g/LeadClick">http://click.topica.com/caacKOVb1dfltb7ukc8g/LeadClick</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>-------------------------------------------------------------------<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>

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Subject: RE: I'm Looped!

Author: Robert Hawkes

Date: Oct 30, 2004, 11:16 AM

Post ID: 1717793797

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