A great bunch of tips, just goes to show ya....there's more than one way to skin a Loopframe cat...:-)
Mike www.classicguzzi.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Graf" <kgr-@midwestpension.com> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 9:01 AM Subject: RE: Generator mount decision time
Cheers.
-----Original Message----- From: Fred Sahms [mailto:fr-@fredsgarage.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 9:57 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Generator mount decision time
Well, the plate is welded on the inside, so the dimension between the block and generator is unchanged.
Kevin Graf wrote:
I agree, It seems that the repaired bracket would throw off your belt adjustment, or at least make it more of a pain than it already is.
Kev
-----Original Message----- From: EldoMike [mailto:msse-@classicguzzi.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 9:26 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Generator mount decision time
I would use the grade 8 studs and lock nuts with the stock bracket...
Mike www.classicguzzi.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Sahms" <fr-@fredsgarage.net> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:14 AM Subject: Generator mount decision time
I need to make a decision on what to do regarding attaching the generator bracket to the block. The motor and transmission are ready
to
drop into the frame, and it'll be easier to do beforehand. The
threaded
holes in the block are fine, and I have one unbroken stock bracket and one bracket that was cracked at the front hole and that's been
repaired
by welding in a piece of hot-rolled steel plate, doubling the
thickness
of the bottom plate of the mount.
Should I locktight in some studs and use nylock nuts, and if so, would 10.9 grade studs (sawed off bolts) be better than 8.8?