Subject: Re: Patience is Dead
Author: Alan Dunphy
Date: Sep 22, 2002, 4:13 PM
Post ID: 1711062363
When I had to replace my timing chain tensioner I used a small strap of 1/4"
thick aluminum but any strong metal strap will work. Turn the crank so the
one of the pulley bolt holes is up then drill and bolt the strap to one of
the lower flange holes and the left or right belt cover holes so that it
PULLS in as straight line as is possible. You may have to use shorter bolts
depending on the thickness of the metal strap. Then just use a steady
pressure on a long wrench to break the crank bolt loose. I used a long 1/2"
drive Snap-On ratchet but a breaker bar and a short piece of pipe might
work, be careful of you knuckles if the wrench should break. To reinstall
simply put the strap to the other side of the cover so that it pulls in the
opposite direction. Special tools are great but ocasionally there is a work
around.
Alan
'74 Eldorado LAPD
MGNOC 4352
Alan R. Dunphy
adun-@midmaine.com
Pittsfield, ME 04967-1426
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Ruff" <klru-@fcc.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: Patience is Dead
| Appreciate the vote of confidence and support Tom. Spoke with Dave Otis this morning and let him hear the racket via phone, his response was "She sure does sound sick!", I agreed. I'm too far into this project now to give up, so I will push on. Here's the next question: From what Dave I can tell, the sound is seems to be coming from the timing chest. I follow the steps on how to get the timing chest cover off, but man is that crank bolt on there tight! Any advice on how to get it off w/o a compressor and air gun? I got a good grip on it by taking off the lower pulley wheel (inner and outer 1/2) and belt, and was gripping the cylinydrical part behind the bolt with channel locks, and tried with all my might to break the nut loose, but couldn't do it. I'll ask Cam to give me a hand as perhaps with 2 hands and an extension or a longer 1/2" drive socket wrench will get that sucker to crack! Any advice on this, has anyone been able to crack this nut without power tools and how? I think the mystery is hiding behind that timing chest cover. BTW, that is the seal that started leaking also, and remember that gen belt that burnt up on me? Perhaps this is all related? Where are the flywheel bolts that a few of you mentioned being toasted? Same area? Thanx for the help again!! Keith Ruff 71 Police Ambassador - NJ Arizona Kid wrote:
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