Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2135

Author: Diane Brannick

Date: Aug 31, 2005, 8:21 AM

Post ID: 1719370599



Sorry to have to respond like this but I just cannot post a message
using topica because I always get an "error" message. Anyhow,
regarding bike lifts, I bought mine in the eighties for $400 and it is
the best tool I have EVER invested in. No more sore knees and aching
back. Bike magazines advertise them, local tool stores may be able to
order them for you, and the internet. I never buy anything of
importance from Harbor Freight but it is still a possibility. They may
still cost $500-$600 but the first time you use it you will say "what a
bargain." It is like a compressor; you can't not have one. Borrow it
from your wife, sell your body on the street or rob a liquor store but
get the money! You will not regret it and I am not charging for this
wisdom. It's a bargain. Shiny Mike in Tucson.








On Aug 31, 2005, at 3:58 AM, Loopfram-@topica.com wrote:

 -- Topica Digest --

RE: rear hub play
By freight-@yahoo.com

RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC
By fr-@fredsgarage.net

RE: rear hub play
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: rear hub play
By ray.-@sfcc.edu

FYI: motorcycle jack
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC
By rob_pr-@hotmail.com

RE: rear hub play
By freight-@yahoo.com

RE: rear hub play
By freight-@yahoo.com

RE: rear hub play
By freight-@yahoo.com

problem?
By motres-@lynchburg.net

RE: FYI: motorcycle jack
By jum-@hotmail.com

RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By jum-@hotmail.com

Need Help with Choke System
By arak-@hotmail.com

Re: Need Help with Choke System
By guzzig-@yahoo.com

Re: Pipes
By mjon-@yahoo.com

'74 eldo Police disk spacer
By freight-@yahoo.com

RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC
By fr-@fredsgarage.net

Re: FYI: motorcycle jack
By peha-@comcast.net

RE: rear hub play
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: '74 eldo Police disk spacer
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

Passing of a fellow Guzzist
By halc-@comcast.net

RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By c.d.mul-@att.net

RE: rear hub play
By c.d.mul-@att.net

RE: problem?
By c.d.mul-@att.net

RE: Need Help with Choke System
By c.d.mul-@att.net

RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads
By c.d.mul-@att.net

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 11:03:16 +0000
From: scott grupe <freight-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would guesstimate
it
to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb1o6faa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have this.
any

ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without Botox! Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to
reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvzb1dfltb1o6faf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 11:36:37 +0000
From: Fred Sahms <fr-@fredsgarage.net>
Subject: RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC




Rob Prins wrote:
 
Thanks Fred,
I'd seen that flyer, I was hoping there might be an updated version
with

location/directions etc.

Try this:

http://www.fredsgarage.net/pictures/directions.doc


Fred


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 11:44:30 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



Hi Scott,

This sounds to me like a few of the wafer-thin washers need to be added
to take up the space between the bearings. This seems odd, though, as I
believe Moe already did this? Perhaps your guess is correct in that the
races are not fully seated.

When I set my bearings up, rather than mount-unmount-remount the wheel,
I use the axle, a long spacer pipe, and the axle nut to get just the
right amount of play on the bench. I've always found this technique
easier since I don't have to try to interpret brake shoe interference
or
gear movement in the rear drive, etc. For a pipe, I use a length of old
shower curtain rod.

You do have the spacer that fits into the housing of the rear drive
installed?

scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would guesstimate
it

to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb1o6faa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed
the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have
this. any


ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without Botox! Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to
reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvzb1dfltb1o6faf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 12:11:20 +0000
From: Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



Scott,
I just spent way too much time sorting this out on my Eldo. Several
times while shimming I neglected to fully torque everything down,
getting false readings. Then it turned out to be the stay that holds
the
brake backing plate to the frame. Until it was tightened down, I had
too
much play, like you. Another listmember recommended I check this
(sorry,
forgot your name but you saved the day!) and it did the trick. I can
only imagine the backing plate was cocked at an angle until battened
down (that's for you John, arrgg matey).

I still have a tiny bit of play and don't really know what's
acceptable.
But if I remove the thinnest shim (.1mm - the thinnest I could find at
McMaster Carr) the wheel won't turn. I'd love to find one 1/2 that size
to play with. Anyone know where I could find those?

In any event it surely sounds as if the shimming needs more work but it
requires a look-see to be sure. I'll bet Moe will gladly check it out
for you. Seems straight up guy to me, at least phone dealings. Never
met
him. haven't been to california since '66. I wonder if that traffic
ticket is still outstanding in El Monte?
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would guesstimate
it

to be normal.

thanks


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:51:46 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: FYI: motorcycle jack



I've been wanting a motorcycle jack for sometime now. Actually, I
really
want one of those great motorcycle lifts, but I just don't have the
space for that. Anyway, I've been kind of waiting for the one at sears
to go on sale, and it has:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950190000


So, I picked it up the other evening. Hopefully I can carve out a few
hours over Labor Day weekend to create Tom Short's Looplifter:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
loopframe_miscellaneous.htm#looplifter


Just thought some other loopers might be interested...

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:54:24 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know others on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:17:38 +0000
From: Rob Prins <rob_pr-@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC



Great!
My wife will be on her red 71 Honda DOHC 450, I'll be on my white V700.
We'll probably get in late Friday and wander the swap meet on Saturday.
If you happen to see the bikes please come up and say hey.
Rob

Fred Sahms wrote:
 

Rob Prins wrote:
 
Thanks Fred,
I'd seen that flyer, I was hoping there might be an updated version
with


location/directions etc.

Try this:

http://www.fredsgarage.net/pictures/directions.doc


Fred


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:18:20 +0000
From: scott grupe <freight-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



Ray,

Thanks. Im gonna loosen the stay on the other bike and then check its
play. Then if its as sloppy, Ill install the stay on project bike

scott


Ray Hale wrote:
 
Scott,
I just spent way too much time sorting this out on my Eldo. Several
times while shimming I neglected to fully torque everything down,
getting false readings. Then it turned out to be the stay that holds
the

brake backing plate to the frame. Until it was tightened down, I had
too

much play, like you. Another listmember recommended I check this
(sorry,

forgot your name but you saved the day!) and it did the trick. I can
only imagine the backing plate was cocked at an angle until battened
down (that's for you John, arrgg matey).

I still have a tiny bit of play and don't really know what's
acceptable.

But if I remove the thinnest shim (.1mm - the thinnest I could find at
McMaster Carr) the wheel won't turn. I'd love to find one 1/2 that
size
to play with. Anyone know where I could find those?

In any event it surely sounds as if the shimming needs more work but
it
requires a look-see to be sure. I'll bet Moe will gladly check it out
for you. Seems straight up guy to me, at least phone dealings. Never
met

him. haven't been to california since '66. I wonder if that traffic
ticket is still outstanding in El Monte?
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would
guesstimate it


to be normal.

thanks


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:21:13 +0000
From: scott grupe <freight-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



Greg,

The wheel should be set up to bolt right in. I sent Moe the wheel and
bearings. he sent them back shimmed ready to go so I doubt its races.
Im
leaning on maybe like the other post its the rear brake stay...not
installed yet. Im gonna loosen one on another bike and chek it out. Se
if its as sloppy.

Scott


Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Scott,

This sounds to me like a few of the wafer-thin washers need to be
added
to take up the space between the bearings. This seems odd, though, as
I
believe Moe already did this? Perhaps your guess is correct in that
the
races are not fully seated.

When I set my bearings up, rather than mount-unmount-remount the
wheel,
I use the axle, a long spacer pipe, and the axle nut to get just the
right amount of play on the bench. I've always found this technique
easier since I don't have to try to interpret brake shoe interference
or

gear movement in the rear drive, etc. For a pipe, I use a length of
old
shower curtain rod.

You do have the spacer that fits into the housing of the rear drive
installed?

scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would
guesstimate it


to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb1o6faa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed
the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have
this. any



ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without Botox! Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to
reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvzb1dfltb1o6faf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:22:40 +0000
From: scott grupe <freight-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



PS, you mean the big, long spacer in rear drive??up inside the spline
uniy? its in there for sure.

s
Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Scott,

This sounds to me like a few of the wafer-thin washers need to be
added
to take up the space between the bearings. This seems odd, though, as
I
believe Moe already did this? Perhaps your guess is correct in that
the
races are not fully seated.

When I set my bearings up, rather than mount-unmount-remount the
wheel,
I use the axle, a long spacer pipe, and the axle nut to get just the
right amount of play on the bench. I've always found this technique
easier since I don't have to try to interpret brake shoe interference
or

gear movement in the rear drive, etc. For a pipe, I use a length of
old
shower curtain rod.

You do have the spacer that fits into the housing of the rear drive
installed?

scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would
guesstimate it


to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb1o6faa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed
the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have
this. any



ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without Botox! Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to
reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvzb1dfltb1o6faf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 10:33:16 -0400
From: "Ron Komoroski" <motres-@lynchburg.net>
Subject: problem?



All,
Are the lists just very quiet, or do I have some sort of excessive
firewall
problem?
Thanks,
Ron Komoroski




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:49:50 +0000
From: joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: FYI: motorcycle jack



Greg,
I once saw an article where someone took the generic
motorcycle/ATV jack and converted it into a lift. He did this by
extending the lower frame rails of the jack about 3-4 feet using angle
iron, then he moved the outboard set of lifting arms (the ones that
are
not connected to the hydraulic cylinder) to the far end of the extended
lower frame rails. Then he made a platform (angle iron/plywood) that
connected the two sets of lifting arms together. He might have extended
the track a bit to prevent tipping from side to side. Looks like an
easy
mod and a cheap motorcycle lift.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I've been wanting a motorcycle jack for sometime now. Actually, I
really

want one of those great motorcycle lifts, but I just don't have the
space for that. Anyway, I've been kind of waiting for the one at sears
to go on sale, and it has:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950190000



So, I picked it up the other evening. Hopefully I can carve out a few
hours over Labor Day weekend to create Tom Short's Looplifter:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
loopframe_miscellaneous.htm#looplifter



Just thought some other loopers might be interested...

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:54:48 +0000
From: joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



Greg,
All I did was grind off the short spigot on the Loop header so
the flange was flat, then used the standard parts for the T/T3 pipes
that fit between the flange (on the header) and the exhaust collar
(that
gets bolted to the head). OEM parts.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know others on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:10:21 +0000
From: Charles H <arak-@hotmail.com>
Subject: Need Help with Choke System



Hello All,

I have a problem concerning my choke system (cables and lever)... I
wanted to put the flip top ones since I my Ambo did not come with the
choke lever and cable splitter... What I learned is that I could only
use the flip top choke if I drilled the carbs (which I really do not
want to do)...
1) My Question: is there any other way using the flip top choke without
having to drill the carbs????
2) If I decide to go back to the regular choke lever with cable system,
where can I find the stock choke lever ???
3) Saw a choke lever on MGCycle, wondering if anyone could tell me how
difficult it is to do the modifications for adaptation ???
4) Is there a best alternative to the stock cable splitter ????

Thanks for the great help

Charles H


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 08:33:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: greg hopkins <guzzig-@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need Help with Choke System



--0-189680048-1125415996=:18594
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Charles, I drilled the carb body in a drill press. It takes 2 bits,
one for the plunger and one for the step-up casting where the flip
lever meets thecarb. It turned out to be quite simple and the
convinience of the carb mount is nice. Greg '74 police Eldo

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
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Take our Nationwide Oreo Survey.
Receive a Free* Restaurant Gift card of your choice or a one year
supply of Oreo's. Hurry, limited time only!
http://click.topica.com/caadOvJb1dfltb7eWj3a/CookieSurvey
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello All,

I have a problem concerning my choke system (cables and lever)... I
wanted to put the flip top ones since I my Ambo did not come with the
choke lever and cable splitter... What I learned is that I could only
use the flip top choke if I drilled the carbs (which I really do not
want to do)...
1) My Question: is there any other way using the flip top choke without
having to drill the carbs????
2) If I decide to go back to the regular choke lever with cable system,
where can I find the stock choke lever ???
3) Saw a choke lever on MGCycle, wondering if anyone could tell me how
difficult it is to do the modifications for adaptation ???
4) Is there a best alternative to the stock cable splitter ????

Thanks for the great help

Charles H

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb7eWj3f/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--0-189680048-1125415996=:18594
Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<DIV>Charles, I drilled the carb body in a drill press. It takes 2
bits, one for the plunger and one for the step-up casting where the
flip lever meets thecarb. It turned out to be quite simple and the
convinience of the carb mount is nice. Greg '74 police
Eldo<BR><BR><B><I></I></B>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Your free subscription is supported by
today's
sponsor:
<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Oreo's<BR>Take our Nationwide Oreo Survey.<BR>Receive a Free*
Restaurant Gift card of your choice or a one year <BR>supply of
Oreo's. Hurry, limited time only!
<BR>http://click.topica.com/caadOvJb1dfltb7eWj3a/
CookieSurvey<BR>-------------------------------------------------------
------------<BR><BR>Hello All,<BR><BR>I have a problem concerning my
choke system (cables and lever)... I <BR>wanted to put the flip top
ones since I my Ambo did not come with the <BR>choke lever and cable
splitter... What I learned is that I could only <BR>use the flip top
choke if I drilled the carbs (which I really do not <BR>want to do)...
<BR>1) My Question: is there any other way using the flip top choke
without <BR>having to drill the carbs????<BR>2) If I decide to go back
to
--0-189680048-1125415996=:18594--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 08:36:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael S. Jones" <mjon-@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pipes



How much you asking for the pipes, Cam? I would really
like to have a more original look, but I'm afraid that
right now I should have other priorities...

-Mike (69 ambo, 77 vert)


M.Jones, associate editor, Journal for the Study of Religions and
Ideologies (http://hiphi.ubbcluj.ro/JSRI/)

"The heart has its reasons which reason does not know." -Blaise Pascal
"With man, instinct and reason avoid each other with adversity, yet,
by repudiating each other they lure each other to reach mutual
correction." -Lucian Blaga

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:38:15 +0000
From: scott grupe <freight-@yahoo.com>
Subject: '74 eldo Police disk spacer



More puzzle pieces. What exactly is the length of the spacer on the
outside, disk side of spacer on axle??

Seems i sent one out to be chromed and its 2.0 inches more lor less.
Appears to be at least 1/2 inch too long which does not allow for
enough
axle thread for nut?


s


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:38:48 +0000
From: Fred Sahms <fr-@fredsgarage.net>
Subject: RE: calling Fred Sahms... NGC



We'll be over there Friday evening and Saturday. We'll have a EZ-UP
for
the Time Warp VMC and I'll wear my Fred hat.

Rob Prins wrote:
 
Great!
My wife will be on her red 71 Honda DOHC 450, I'll be on my white
V700.

We'll probably get in late Friday and wander the swap meet on
Saturday.

If you happen to see the bikes please come up and say hey.
Rob

Fred Sahms wrote:
 

Rob Prins wrote:
 
Thanks Fred,
I'd seen that flyer, I was hoping there might be an updated version
with



location/directions etc.

Try this:

http://www.fredsgarage.net/pictures/directions.doc


Fred



73 Eldo
78 T3/949


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 08:41:44 -0700
From: Patrick Hayes <peha-@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: FYI: motorcycle jack



Its cheap, but it works. Harbor Freight is now selling the Chinese
knockoff hydraulic lift bench for under $300. See item #91764

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91764.
I have a slightly better version which is both air and hydraulic
operation and includes a better wheel vise. I made a few mods for
increased holding stability. My EV is sitting on it for some lube
changes right now. Mine is from:

http://broadwaylifts.com/

He sells the same one as Harbor Frieght, but with his improved wheel
clamp. I was able to pick mine up to save shipping.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:52:18 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



yep, that's the one - just making a sanity check, that's all :>

scott grupe wrote:
 
PS, you mean the big, long spacer in rear drive??up inside the spline
uniy? its in there for sure.

s
Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Scott,

This sounds to me like a few of the wafer-thin washers need to be
added
to take up the space between the bearings. This seems odd, though,
as I
believe Moe already did this? Perhaps your guess is correct in that
the
races are not fully seated.

When I set my bearings up, rather than mount-unmount-remount the
wheel,
I use the axle, a long spacer pipe, and the axle nut to get just the
right amount of play on the bench. I've always found this technique
easier since I don't have to try to interpret brake shoe
interference or


gear movement in the rear drive, etc. For a pipe, I use a length of
old
shower curtain rod.

You do have the spacer that fits into the housing of the rear drive
installed?

scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take
ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull
one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear
oil in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings
are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are
not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would
guesstimate it



to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
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------------------------------------------------------------------
-

Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed
the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have
this. any




ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
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reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply.
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Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 16:01:38 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: '74 eldo Police disk spacer



Hi Scott,

Here is the info I've gathered:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
loopframe_frame.htm#disc_brake_information


scott grupe wrote:
 
More puzzle pieces. What exactly is the length of the spacer on the
outside, disk side of spacer on axle??

Seems i sent one out to be chromed and its 2.0 inches more lor less.
Appears to be at least 1/2 inch too long which does not allow for
enough

axle thread for nut?


s



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 17:38:19 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



Hi Joe,

Thanks for the information. One question for clarification: For the
pieces that fit between the header pipe flange and the collar that gets
bolted to the head, were they of the two piece split collar type?

joe jump wrote:
 
Greg,
All I did was grind off the short spigot on the Loop header so
the flange was flat, then used the standard parts for the T/T3 pipes
that fit between the flange (on the header) and the exhaust collar
(that

gets bolted to the head). OEM parts.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know others on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 18:24:51 +0000
From: halc-@comcast.net
Subject: Passing of a fellow Guzzist




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15815_1125426291_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Hi All

It is with great sadness that I am writing this email.

Paul "Russ" Gludding has passed away last night of an apparent heart
attack at his home.

His passion for the Moto Guzzi marque was unsurpassed. Russ began
collecting and restoring Guzzis in the early 90's He had several
Ambassadors, Eldorados, T3s,a V11 Sport, Quota among other Guzzis.
He recently restored the original V65 that Melissa Pierson wrote the
book "The Perfect Vehicle" . He was planning on bringing that bike to
the IMOC meet in Sturbridge.

Russ was also planning on a 6-8 month tour of Alaska to South America
next May on his T3.

He once asked me after buying another Guzzi , his 10th, last June if
he had a sickness. I told him he could always keep them over my
house. He never passed up a good looking Guzzi.


His generosity, humor, kindness and compassion will be missed.

God's speed my friend.


http://www.geocities.com/mgnoc_mass/Lars03.html
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15815_1125426291_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>Hi All</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It is with great sadness that I am writing this email.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Paul "Russ" Gludding has passed away last night of an apparent
heart attack at his home.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>His passion for the Moto Guzzi marque was unsurpassed.
Russ began collecting and restoring Guzzis in the early 90's He
had several Ambassadors, Eldorados, T3s,a V11 Sport, Quota among
other Guzzis. He recently restored the original V65
that Melissa Pierson wrote the book "The Perfect Vehicle" .
He was planning on bringing that bike to the IMOC meet in
Sturbridge.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Russ was also planning on a 6-8 month tour of Alaska to South
America next May on his T3. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>He once asked me after buying another Guzzi , his 10th,
last June if he had a sickness. I told him he could always
keep them over my house. He never passed up a good looking
Guzzi.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>His generosity, humor, kindness and compassion will be
missed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>God's speed my friend.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A
href="http://www.geocities.com/mgnoc_mass/Lars03.html">http://
www.geocities.com/mgnoc_mass/Lars03.html</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></body></html>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15815_1125426291_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:46:22 +0000
From: Charlie Mullendore <c.d.mul-@att.net>
Subject: RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



Hi Greg,
I used the stock bits the same as Joe. The spacers I used was the
one-piece type - like a short section of pipe with a cut in it.

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Joe,

Thanks for the information. One question for clarification: For the
pieces that fit between the header pipe flange and the collar that
gets
bolted to the head, were they of the two piece split collar type?

joe jump wrote:
 
Greg,
All I did was grind off the short spigot on the Loop header
so
the flange was flat, then used the standard parts for the T/T3 pipes
that fit between the flange (on the header) and the exhaust collar
(that


gets bolted to the head). OEM parts.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still
use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know others
on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:52:58 +0000
From: Charlie Mullendore <c.d.mul-@att.net>
Subject: RE: rear hub play



Sounds to me like one "paper-thin" shim needs to be removed. Moe should
have it shimmed correctly, but then he also should have removed the old
fork seals from the spring cup/fork seal holders I got from him BEFORE
they were rechromed - but didn't! But that another story...

scott grupe wrote:
 
PLAY: as in when u check your wheel bearing play on an car. Take ones
hand and place on top of wheel and the other on bottom. Now, pull one
hand whilst pushing the other.

Ive got play in mine. You could call it twisting diagonally left to
right or top to bottom along along axle center. There is no gear oil
in
rear at moment. it is dry as a bone, fresh put together. Bearings are
freshly repacked. In my humble assessment I feel the bearings are not
fully seated in their races.

My other eldo has very , very slight play too but I would guesstimate
it

to be normal.

thanks

scott
Patrick Hayes wrote:
 
Please define "play".
Rotational? The way the wheel turns.
Sliding lateral along the axle?
Twisting diagonally left to right along the axle center?
Twisting diagonally top to bottom along the axle center?
Nobody will be able to opine on your issue unless you can be more
specific about the play.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

scott grupe wrote:


 Just got my rear bearings set up by Moe at cyclegarden. Installed
the
hub on the drive with the brake drum and torqued it down.

I have alot of play in the wheel...my other eldo does not have
this. any


ideas as to what did wrong??

Reason for Moe doing the bearings is I lost the spacer and
shims.....turned the shop inside out and could not find them:(

thnx.

scott


Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:56:06 +0000
From: Charlie Mullendore <c.d.mul-@att.net>
Subject: RE: problem?



Hi Ron,
A couple of days we only had 5 or 6 posts, then Topica did maintenance
(again!) on Sunday. More today, but not the 50+ we had some days!

Ron Komoroski wrote:
 
All,
Are the lists just very quiet, or do I have some sort of excessive
firewall
problem?
Thanks,
Ron Komoroski



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 23:22:30 +0000
From: Charlie Mullendore <c.d.mul-@att.net>
Subject: RE: Need Help with Choke System



Hi Charles,
The lever from MG Cycle is easily adapted. You need to drill one new
hole in the lever perch about 90 degrees around from the original to
mount it. You'll probably need to find a small roll pin to fit at the
local hardware store unless you still have the remnants of the old
lever
- none is included. It keeps the lever from turning on the perch. Where
the cable goes into the lever assy. base is threaded for an adjuster on
the MG Cycle one also - simply drill the hole to fit the cable outer
diameter.

To get full travel from mine, I had to make a 1/2" thick spacer to go
between the lever and perch. A longer 7mm bolt will likely be needed
too
(If anyone needs any M7x50 8.8 bolts, I have about 40 I don't need!).
Otherwise the lever would hit my throttle. But since you only need to
pull the lever a small amount for enrichening/choke, this is probably
unnecessary.

As for the splitter, you could use the one MG has for the SPIII, etc.
#2 here:http://www.mgcycle.com/choke.html

Another alternative would be to use the choke lever assy. and cables
from a Convert, G5, CX100, SP, etc. like #1 on the MG page above. They
bolt on at the left valve cover and run short cables to each carb. You
can reuse the Loop bits on the carb tops. Maybe whoever was parting out
the Converts (Tom?) has the whole assy. for you cheap? Hope this helps.


Charles H wrote:
 
Hello All,

I have a problem concerning my choke system (cables and lever)... I
wanted to put the flip top ones since I my Ambo did not come with the
choke lever and cable splitter... What I learned is that I could only
use the flip top choke if I drilled the carbs (which I really do not
want to do)...
1) My Question: is there any other way using the flip top choke
without
having to drill the carbs????
2) If I decide to go back to the regular choke lever with cable
system,
where can I find the stock choke lever ???
3) Saw a choke lever on MGCycle, wondering if anyone could tell me
how
difficult it is to do the modifications for adaptation ???
4) Is there a best alternative to the stock cable splitter ????

Thanks for the great help

Charles H



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 01:23:10 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



Hi Charlie,

I've got a pair of those spacers, but it doesn't make sense to me...the
inner diameter spacer fits over the outside of the flange on my header
pipe and inside the flange that secures the header pipe to the head. I
think I'm missing something here!

Charlie Mullendore wrote:
 
Hi Greg,
I used the stock bits the same as Joe. The spacers I used was the
one-piece type - like a short section of pipe with a cut in it.

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Joe,

Thanks for the information. One question for clarification: For the
pieces that fit between the header pipe flange and the collar that
gets
bolted to the head, were they of the two piece split collar type?

joe jump wrote:
 
Greg,
All I did was grind off the short spigot on the Loop header
so
the flange was flat, then used the standard parts for the T/T3 pipes
that fit between the flange (on the header) and the exhaust collar
(that



gets bolted to the head). OEM parts.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still
use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know others
on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit
the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 01:51:45 +0000
From: Charlie Mullendore <c.d.mul-@att.net>
Subject: RE: header pipe adapters for T3 heads



Hi Greg,
The i.d. of the spacer will be a little smaller once it's in the head.
On mine the spacer contacts enough of the o.d. of the headpipe flange
to
do the job, but just barely. Kind of fiddly to get the headpipe
centered, spacer in correct position and nuts tightened all at the same
time. That's why I had the special headpipes made for Sophia with the
T-style flanges and Loop curve to them. If I ever get them back from
EPCO, I'll put them on! :-)

I tried getting some .125" thick x 2.5" diam. steel washers at Lowes
and
then machining them to fit over the headpipe and into the head. Would
have given the spacer much more to press against than the rounded edge
of the headpipe flange. But ran out of time to shorten the spacers for
use with the washers and still get the flanges in place.

If I remember correctly, the finned securing flanges that hold
everything into the head come in two varieties. One has a smaller i.d.
and came on the milder tuned engines (Convert, G5) the other on more
sporting models (LeMans). Headpipe diameters were different? Ran into
the same thing with the billet aluminum flanges from Guzzitech that I
originally planned to use. Would have had to whittle out some new
spacers to use them and just ran out of time. Maybe I'll use them in
the
Sophia version 1.1 mods I have planned for this winter...

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Charlie,

I've got a pair of those spacers, but it doesn't make sense to
me...the
inner diameter spacer fits over the outside of the flange on my header
pipe and inside the flange that secures the header pipe to the head. I
think I'm missing something here!

Charlie Mullendore wrote:
 
Hi Greg,
I used the stock bits the same as Joe. The spacers I used was the
one-piece type - like a short section of pipe with a cut in it.

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Joe,

Thanks for the information. One question for clarification: For the
pieces that fit between the header pipe flange and the collar that
gets
bolted to the head, were they of the two piece split collar type?

joe jump wrote:
 
Greg,
All I did was grind off the short spigot on the Loop
header so
the flange was flat, then used the standard parts for the T/T3
pipes
that fit between the flange (on the header) and the exhaust collar
(that




gets bolted to the head). OEM parts.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
I'm going to be mounting a set of T3 heads on my Ambo...but still
use
the loop header pipes with just the end chopped off. I know
others on
this list have done this. What size pipe did you find/use to fit
the
diameter of the header pipe properly?

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo
"Junkyard"



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/


------------------------------

End of Loopfram-@topica.com digest, issue 2135

Entire thread: