Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2119
Author: Diane Brannick
Date: Aug 17, 2005, 11:12 AM
Post ID: 1719310869
Does anyone have a used "Guzziology" they would like to sell?
Michael Ittner
On Aug 16, 2005, at 11:10 AM, Loopfram-@topica.com wrote:
| -- Topica Digest -- RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but.... By kkurb-@aol.com Switch on brake cable By BGIL-@mitre.org strange motor noises By spaj-@raex.com RE: PA Rally By gr-@thisoldtractor.com Re: Distributor rebuild By halc-@comcast.net eldo 1000 cc big bore By rapf-@aol.com Re: Switch on brake cable By paul-@comcast.net Re: strange motor noises By ju-@astrocomma.com RE: Distributor rebuild By gr-@thisoldtractor.com RE: Distributor rebuild By gr-@thisoldtractor.com RE: Distributor rebuild By BGIL-@mitre.org RE: Distributor rebuild By gr-@thisoldtractor.com RE: Hello! By TSh-@phx.devry.edu RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but.... By JChic-@mestek.com Re: eldo 1000 cc big bore By paul-@comcast.net RE: Distributor rebuild By JChic-@mestek.com Re: strange motor noises By Rapf-@aol.com Re: strange motor noises By hox-@worldnet.att.net Re: Hello! By bobli-@gmail.com RE: Hello! By johnulri-@yahoo.com Re: strange motor noises By halc-@comcast.net Re: Hello! By paul-@comcast.net Re: Distributor rebuild By ju-@astrocomma.com Re: advice...still have clutch woes By gre-@gregfield.com Re: Hello! By halc-@comcast.net Re: Hello! By bobli-@gmail.com RE: Hello! By rich.-@acgov.org Re: Hello! By gcb-@neo.rr.com Re: Hello! By gcb-@neo.rr.com Re: Hello! By halc-@comcast.net ------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:09:47 +0000 From: Keith K <kkurb-@aol.com> Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but.... The nuts were slaughtered when I had to cut them out. It's the threads on the heads I am concerned about. mjon-@yahoo.com wrote:
------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:45:10 -0400 From: "Giller,Bruce C." <BGIL-@mitre.org> Subject: Switch on brake cable This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1"us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light switch in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ? My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ? Bruce '72 Eldo ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2> My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light switch in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>Bruce</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>'72 Eldo</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:23:44 -0400 From: Prusnek <spaj-@raex.com> Subject: strange motor noises Ted: Is it the tune from the Godfather? If so, you're in trouble. Otherwise, it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak, I'd check around your header nuts first. John Prusnek http://myweb.core.com/photos/spajohn@raex.com/MotoGuzziDecals
------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:30:39 +0000 From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Subject: RE: PA Rally ug, that is dissapointing...have you seen other's this way or is this a one of a kind weak spot? Charlie Mullendore wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Florida MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc Minnesota MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:35:25 +0000 From: halc-@comcast.net Subject: Re: Distributor rebuild --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15345_1124199325_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Vince Look on Greg Bender's site www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender He probably has the info on there. T -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>Vince</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Look on Greg Bender's site</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender">www.thisoldtractor.com/ gtbender</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>He probably has the info on there.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>T</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15345_1124199325_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:56:48 +0000 From: rick rappazo <rapf-@aol.com> Subject: eldo 1000 cc big bore Hi Anyone know if Cylinder Piston Kits for CX100 1000SP G5 Coni will work on a eldo if i turn down the cylinders where they fit the block ? will the pistons work ? thanks to all rick ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:56:59 +0000 From: paul-@comcast.net Subject: Re: Switch on brake cable --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have never had a problem with any of mine setup this way. My switch was always located between the two trees. I would adjust the shoes so they just barely make contact with the drum and then install the cable and adjust it so you have the correct amount of free play. This way when you pull the brake lever it will only travel maybe a half inch before engaging the brake. Mine would almost throw you over the bars if you were not careful. Now unless your cable has been stretched somehow, I don't see how it could ever be soft if you adjust it this way. My 2 cents worth. Paul -------------- Original message -------------- Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use! http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/LotteryVault ------------------------------------------------------------------- My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light switch in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ? My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ? Bruce '72 Eldo Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP. Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply. http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm ------------------------------------------------------------------- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>I have never had a problem with any of mine setup this way. My switch was always located between the two trees. I would adjust the shoes so they just barely make contact with the drum and then install the cable and adjust it so you have the correct amount of free play. This way when you pull the brake lever it will only travel maybe a half inch before engaging the brake. Mine would almost throw you over the bars if you were not careful. Now unless your cable has been stretched somehow, I don't see how it could ever be soft if you adjust it this way.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>My 2 cents worth.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR><PRE>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use! <A href="http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/Lottery">http:// click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/Lottery</A> Vault ------------------------------------------------------------------- </PRE> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2> My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light switch in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>Bruce</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial size=2>'72 Eldo</FONT></SPAN></DIV><PRE>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP. Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply. <A href="http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm">http:// click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm</A> ------------------------------------------------------------------- </PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></body></html> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:10:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Ted Ward <ju-@astrocomma.com> Subject: Re: strange motor noises Man if the Godfather has mechanics that could pull that off I might have to join the organization. It's actually "The good the bad and the ugly." so I think I'm safe. But for the time being I'll look for an exhaust leak, thanks. --- John Prusnek <spaj-@raex.com> wrote:
Ted Ward ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:15:52 +0000 From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild Hi Vince, In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well (I'm summarizing here): 1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the compression stroke. should be free play at both valves 2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock 3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and insert the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed'). the notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear interfaces with the gear on the camshaft. From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple of times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult. lio-@aol.com wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Florida MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc Minnesota MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:21:09 +0000 From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild one other thing... Since you have the distributor out, you might as well gap the points at the workbench rather than at the bike (just a little easier). That way, you'll only have to set the timing once the distributor is installed (this is the way my brothers and I used to do it on the '61 beetle we had during high school). Greg Bender wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Florida MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc Minnesota MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:23:14 -0400 From: "Giller,Bruce C." <BGIL-@mitre.org> Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild Greg, My question is: can you get the distributor lock-down bolt to be in the middle of the "clamping arc" on the distributor? My lock-down bolt is always at the 'bottom' of the clamping arc no matter how I inserted the distributor into the engine. Any hints??? Bruce -----Original Message----- From: Greg Bender [mailto:gr-@thisoldtractor.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:16 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild Hi Vince, In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well (I'm summarizing here): 1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the compression stroke. should be free play at both valves 2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock 3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and insert the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed'). the notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear interfaces with the gear on the camshaft. From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple of times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult. lio-@aol.com wrote:
------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:42:06 +0000 From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild Hi Bruce, If you are always at one extreme, you ought to be able to remove the distributor, rotate the shaft one direction or another, and then reinsert...moving the gear on the distributor shaft 'over' one tooth on the camshaft gear. It's a good idea to start at top dead center for a reference point. Giller,Bruce C. wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Florida MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc Minnesota MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:45:29 +0000 From: tom short <TSh-@phx.devry.edu> Subject: RE: Hello! bob wrote:
Welcome!!!
Bob, You are one luck-y guy! I have a V700 also, 1968. I did notice a few nice things about your bike. *It has great mufflers! *It has square slide carbs. The originals were prone to ignite the bikes into rolling fire balls. *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum. You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er going!! Now, we have to give her a name... The Arizona Kid LFL 009 Tom Short AZ MGNOC Rep Phoenix, AZ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:52:11 -0400 From: "John Chicoine" <JChic-@mestek.com> Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but.... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Yes I do. Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include shipping. John ________________________________ From: thomas halchuk [mailto:halc-@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 3:53 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but.... Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP. Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply. http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm ------------------------------------------------------------------- So John Do you any more tools for sale? T Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now! No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval Cash in you account Overnight! http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <!--[if !mso]> <style> v:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} </style> <![endif]--><o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/> <!--[if !mso]> <style> st1:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--> <style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Tahoma; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink {color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} pre {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Courier New";} span.EmailStyle18 {mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:Arial; color:navy;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=blue> <div class=Section1> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size: 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Yes I do. Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include shipping.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size: 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></ p> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size: 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>John<o:p></o:p></span></font></p> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size: 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></ p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </span></font></div> <p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> thomas halchuk [mailto:halc-@comcast.net] <br> <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Monday, August 15, 2005 3:53 PM<br> <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Loopfram-@topica.com</st1:PersonName><br> <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....</span></font><o:p></o:p></p> </div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p> <pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size: 10.0pt'>--------------------------------------------------------------- ----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click <o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>here to get your 30-day free supply.<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'><a href="http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm">http:// click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm</a><o:p></o:p></span></ font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size: 10.0pt'>--------------------------------------------------------------- ----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'>So John<o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'>Do you any more tools for sale?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'>T<o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <div> <p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size: 12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p> </div> <pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size: 10.0pt'>--------------------------------------------------------------- ----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now! <o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval <o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Cash in you account Overnight!<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'><a href="http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/ 911PaydayAdvance">http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/ 911PaydayAdvance</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size: 10.0pt'>--------------------------------------------------------------- ----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font </body> </html> ------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:00:37 +0000 From: paul-@comcast.net Subject: Re: eldo 1000 cc big bore --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7821_1124200837_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Yes. They will work. Paul -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>Yes. They will work.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7821_1124200837_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:18:33 -0400 From: "John Chicoine" <JChic-@mestek.com> Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild Take a picture of the rotor position b4 you pull the dist. When you reinstall it make sure the rotor is in the same position. John C. -----Original Message----- From: lio-@aol.com [mailto:lio-@aol.com] Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 10:42 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Distributor rebuild Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use! http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltbN7eKTa/LotteryVault ------------------------------------------------------------------- Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align it up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right first time. Vince in NY BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in getting together some Sunday morning for a ride? Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP. Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day free supply. http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTf/Nexiderm ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:11:11 EDT From: Rapf-@aol.com Subject: Re: strange motor noises -------------------------------1124194271 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ted , Any chance its coming out of your generator. Rick -------------------------------1124194271 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV>Hi Ted , Any chance its coming out of your generator. Rick</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML> -------------------------------1124194271-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:58:35 -0500 From: "George Hoxie" <hox-@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: strange motor noises intake leak ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Ward" <ju-@astrocomma.com> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com> Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 9:21 PM Subject: strange motor noises Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax! Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour! http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltbNWikma/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- A while ago my eldo began to make some strange high pitched whistling noises. They go with the speed of the motor and are really only audible at or near idle. Any idea what that can be? Ted Ward Ted Ward Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate? Take our Nationwide Chocolate Survey today! Receive a FREE* $100 restaurant gift card of your choice or $100 worth Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate for participating! http://click.topica.com/caadOv3b1dfltbNWikmf/ChocolateSurvey ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 11:02:15 -0500 From: bob <bobli-@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Hello! Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions. Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get the bike out this season. My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it? As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this (http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm) and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the chrome. Am I on the right track? One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back together) I'm thinking that these (http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice?
I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do what I can to shine those suckers up!
I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer!
I'm going to hold you to that!!
I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:11:23 +0000 From: John Ulrich <johnulri-@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Hello! bob wrote:
-Digital camera, lots of memory. -Legal Pad to draw out diagrams of attachment -Masking tape and fine tip premanent marker to label the ends of all removed electrical connections. -Baggies to place all nuts & bolts. -Boxes to store the various sub assemblies in...ie starter, generator. No such thing as too many pictures when you go to reassemble it. Later, JU ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:36:05 +0000 From: halc-@comcast.net Subject: Re: strange motor noises --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16064_1124199365_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Vacuum leak? -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>Vacuum leak?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16064_1124199365_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:11:29 +0000 From: paul-@comcast.net Subject: Re: Hello! --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14026_1124208689_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The first thing to do is get a big enough space to put all the parts you take off. Preferably somwhere where nothing will get damaged. Second, get out your digital camera and take lots of pictures of the dissasembly so that you can reference them when you re-assemble. Yes opening the cylinders to check for chrome peeling is VERY advisable. If you feel the motor needs to be cleaned, then now is the time to go ahead and pull it from the frame and scrub every nook and cranny. Same goes for the tranny and rear drive. The stainless kits are excellent and will really make the bike look good. I have used them on both of my Eldorados. Just take your time and it will turn out great. Paul -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>The first thing to do is get a big enough space to put all the parts you take off. Preferably somwhere where nothing will get damaged. Second, get out your digital camera and take lots of pictures of the dissasembly so that you can reference them when you re-assemble. Yes opening the cylinders to check for chrome peeling is VERY advisable. If you feel the motor needs to be cleaned, then now is the time to go ahead and pull it from the frame and scrub every nook and cranny. Same goes for the tranny and rear drive. The stainless kits are excellent and will really make the bike look good. I have used them on both of my Eldorados. Just take your time and it will turn out great.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR><BR>> Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions. <BR>> <BR>> Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's <BR>> been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the <BR>> way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get <BR>> the bike out this season. <BR>> <BR>> My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in <BR>> order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the <BR>> cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it <BR>> over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at <BR>> it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it? <BR>> <BR>> As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this <BR>> (http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/ Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm) <BR>> and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the <BR>> chrome. Am I on the right track? <BR>> <BR>> One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back <BR>> together) I'm thinking that these <BR>> (http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to <BR>> have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice? <BR>> <BR>> > Tom Short wrote: <BR>> > *It has great mufflers! <BR>> <BR>> I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal <BR>> is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the <BR>> finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a <BR>> vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do <BR>> what I can to shine those suckers up! <BR>> <BR>> > *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum. <BR>> <BR>> I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer! <BR>> <BR>> > You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er going!! <BR>> <BR>> I'm going to hold you to that!! <BR>> <BR>> > Now, we have to give her a name... <BR>> <BR>> I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come. </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14026_1124208689_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:08:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Ted Ward <ju-@astrocomma.com> Subject: Re: Distributor rebuild Vince. Someone on this list helped me with the same problem. What you do is take a cylinder, say the left cylinder (2??) this cylinder fires from the outermost plugwire from the distributor so make sure the piston is at TDC of its compression stroke (right about the time the spark plug should fire) and put the distributor in so that the tip of the rotor is just about to cross the contact for that plug wire. Makes sense when you think about it. You might have to pull the distributor loose and move it one notch forward or backwards but you should be close. Ted Ward --- lio-@aol.com wrote:
Ted Ward ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:51:23 -0700 From: Greg Field <gre-@gregfield.com> Subject: Re: advice...still have clutch woes --Apple-Mail-18--125004774 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed You'll need to tear it down to lube the spline on the tranny input hub, or drill a hole in the bellhousing so you can lube it externally. It could alo be that the plate is shot. Did you get the sintered or organic plate? GF
--Apple-Mail-18--125004774 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/enriched; charset=ISO-8859-1 You'll need to tear it down to lube the spline on the tranny input hub, or drill a hole in the bellhousing so you can lube it externally. It could alo be that the plate is shot. Did you get the sintered or organic plate? GF <excerpt>Cable is lubed, no kinks....sometimes, when I pull in the clutch to down shift, it takes a while for it to actually engage.=A0 Not always, but I'd say 25% of the time, this occurs.=A0 I've tried about four billion different adjustments, to no avail.=A0 Weird, I have no idea.=A0 Anybody else ever have this happen?=A0 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill 73 Bronze Eldo -------------- Original message from greg hopkins <<guzzig-@yahoo.com>: -------------- Grease the cable and inspect for kinks first. Greg '74 Police Eldo <bold><italic>bluezi-@att.net</italic></bold> wrote: <fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Is your computer freezing up or slowing down? Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!
PowerScan ------------------------------------------------------------------- </bigger></fixed> Hi Guys! =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0I replaced my clutch with a RAM last winter, and now it's=A0started=A0acting a bit strange.=A0 When sailing down the road and > I pull in the clutch to downshift, there is a hesitation before the clutch engages.....is this what happens when a throwout bearing is worn out?=A0 It looked great when I had it apart 9 months ago, do they go bad that fast?=A0 Is it something else?.....HELP!!! Bill 73 Bronze Eldo <fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!=20 No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval=20 Cash in you account Overnight!
------------------------------------------------------------------- </bigger></fixed> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com <fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Is your computer freezing up or slowing down? Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!
PowerScan ------------------------------------------------------------------- </bigger></fixed>
</excerpt>> --Apple-Mail-18--125004774-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:59:48 +0000 From: halc-@comcast.net Subject: Re: Hello! --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3856_1124211588_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Here are some random thoughts on the rebuild question: This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself. How much do you want to $pend? How much time do you have? What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned? show bike, custom, stock? So now you have decided to "clean it up". And you pulling the motor/trans. It has been sitting for 10 yrs. Chrome is porous and corrodes very quickly. 90% chance the cylinder walls are pitted. Guzzi used natural rubber products. So most of the rubber is cracked, dried up. Pistons & cylinders and gaskets - $700 Head work - $100-200 Rear engine & trans seals - $20 (4 hrs in -4 hrs out) most likely needed. Rear end seals and drive shaft boot - $60 clutch and clutch spline - $250 ( as long as you are there.) may not be needed battery - $25-125 air filter - ?? drain all fluids ( forks, rear end, engine) $25 carbs clean & rebuild -$50-70 gas tank sealer - $50 petcock seals - $10 cables - $100 Tires - $200 Electrical - ??? But the good thing is the bike was free. The paint looks great. I didn't see any rust anywhere. A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome. If the cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it. Why fix something that isn't broken (yet) Whatever you decide to do it will be fun. John Chicoine has a tool kit he has made to work on loops, MG Cycle has some special tools made by Steve Brenton also available. I have a set. If you are serious about rebuilding this bike you'll need some of the tools. Slotted socket for crank nut - MG - Cycle Front fork tools - MG Cycle John Chiccoine has some tools Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include shipping. John -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV>Here are some random thoughts on the rebuild question:</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>How much do you want to $pend?</DIV> <DIV>How much time do you have?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned? show bike, custom, stock?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>So now you have decided to "clean it up". And you pulling the motor/trans.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>It has been sitting for 10 yrs. Chrome is porous and corrodes very quickly. 90% chance the cylinder walls are pitted. </DIV> <DIV>Guzzi used natural rubber products. So most of the rubber is cracked, dried up.</DIV> <DIV>Pistons & cylinders and gaskets - $700</DIV> <DIV>Head work - $100-200</DIV> <DIV>Rear engine & trans seals - $20 (4 hrs in -4 hrs out) most likely needed.</DIV> <DIV>Rear end seals and drive shaft boot - $60</DIV> <DIV>clutch and clutch spline - $250 ( as long as you are there.) may not be needed</DIV> <DIV>battery - $25-125</DIV> <DIV>air filter - ??</DIV> <DIV>drain all fluids ( forks, rear end, engine) $25</DIV> <DIV>carbs clean & rebuild -$50-70 </DIV> <DIV>gas tank sealer - $50</DIV> <DIV>petcock seals - $10</DIV> <DIV>cables - $100</DIV> <DIV>Tires - $200</DIV> <DIV>Electrical - ???</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>But the good thing is the bike was free. The paint looks great. I didn't see any rust anywhere.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome. If the cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it. Why fix something that isn't broken (yet)</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Whatever you decide to do it will be fun. John Chicoine has a tool kit he has made to work on loops, MG Cycle has some special tools made by Steve Brenton also available. I have a set. If you are serious about rebuilding this bike you'll need some of the tools.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Slotted socket for crank nut - MG - Cycle</DIV> <DIV>Front fork tools - MG Cycle</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> John Chiccoine has some tools <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"> Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include shipping.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">John<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <DIV>-------------- Original message -------------- <BR><BR>> Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions. <BR>> <BR>> Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's <BR>> been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the <BR>> way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get <BR>> the bike out this season. <BR>> <BR>> My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in <BR>> order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the <BR>> cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it <BR>> over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at <BR>> it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it? <BR>> <BR>> As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this <BR>> (http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/ Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm) <BR>> and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the <BR>> chrome. Am I on the right track? <BR>> <BR>> One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back <BR>> together) I'm thinking that these <BR>> (http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to <BR>> have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice? <BR>> <BR>> > Tom Short wrote: <BR>> > *It has great mufflers! <BR>> <BR>> I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal <BR>> is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the <BR>> finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a <BR>> vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do <BR>> what I can to shine those suckers up! <BR>> <BR>> > *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum. <BR>> <BR>> I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer! <BR>> <BR>> > You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er going!! <BR>> <BR>> I'm going to hold you to that!! <BR>> <BR>> > Now, we have to give her a name... <BR>> <BR>> I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come. </DIV></DIV></body></html> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3856_1124211588_0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:31:50 -0500 From: bob <bobli-@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Hello!
Without getting too specific... I've been saving for a bike for a few years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had the cash to pay for it up front. So, I'm in an interesting situation where I've already got a sizeable chunk of cash that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this bike found me, I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend my money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom floor. I was mentally prepared to spend $7k on a used sporty for a project bike... the same class-less and generic bike that everyone else is riding around. Now I'm thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for $7k!?!?!"
I'm hoping to supplant a different and less productive hobby with this one. If I can pull it off, I'll have a fair amount of time. I'm not even entertaining the thought that I'll get the bike running this season. That gives me a very long and cold Minnesota winter to work on it. If I could idle it in the garage over the winter, I'd be happy. If I could tool around the neighborhood in the spring, I'd be in heaven.
I'd like it to look like a very old bike that's been very well taken care of. I don't want shiny new paint or a "right off the showroom floor" look. I like the fact that the bike *looks* like it's been around for a while, but, I don't want it to look like a bike that's been in a shed for 10 years.
I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too wrench-happy. I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed with it. That way when I'm putting it back together I can at least know, "well, it worked before I messed with it!" Tonight I work late... Wednesday is a trip to the store for battery and oi> l. -- Bob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:41:48 -0700 From: "Zink, Rich, ITD" <rich.-@acgov.org> Subject: RE: Hello! In one of my rare responses, I have to totally agree with this philosophy. I have had/seen too many projects start off by complete disassembly only to spend years in boxes afterward due to loss of momentum. Rich -----Original Message----- From: bob [mailto:bobli-@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:32 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Hello!
I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too wrench-happy. I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed with it. That way when I'm putting it back together I can at least know, "well, it worked before I messed with it!" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:41:33 -0400 From: Greg Barratt <gcb-@neo.rr.com> Subject: Re: Hello!
this bike will explode into a room about 20' x20' easy.
good idea. you'll need to fab a puller to pull the rear crank cover. you'll also need a way to remove clutch.. when you get to this point, a lot of people will chime in with advice..
motor still in the frame, and it does make the motor lighter and easier to handle when you want to pull out motor. keep in mind, you will have to remove the entire rear rear drive, swingarm (special tool - i use heavy duty snap ring pliers ground down to turn the swingarm bolts), and tranny, and rear fender, and battery tray , to get motor out (the 4 speed box is a tighter fit than a 5 speed box..)
quick - no more searching for bolts..i've built several loops using the kit, and it works quite well. definitely order a gasket kit, and orings for cylinders. you'll need to replace a lot of seals, they're all listed at greg bender's site ( http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm) - the site has just about everything you could need. you'll also need to replace hoses, and probably plug wires/ends make sure you have a parts book, and a service manual, and put joe eish, mark etheridge (moto guzzi classics) , and mgcycle's number in your phone book. they're all good sources for parts. there is very little not available for a v700, the only real pricey and difficult to find cosmetics are the dash and instrument cluster. if you take your time and build it right, you've got one of the most durable and long lasting bikes out there....many loopframe guys with 100k - 200k miles bikes.. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:47:14 -0400 From: Greg Barratt <gcb-@neo.rr.com> Subject: Re: Hello! i'd figure a decent rebuild of a bike in that condition, without doing any cosmetics at $1200-$1500 or so. plus a lot of hours. do it right the first time. you are not gonna want to pull the motor again because the rear seal/tranny is leaking. do it right once, and it will last a very long time. do it wrong once and you'll tear it apart sooner than you think.
------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 17:44:46 +0000 From: halc-@comcast.net Subject: Re: Hello! --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_10670_1124214286_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit If you put 2K into this one, you can pick up another Guzzi this winter! -------------- Original message --------------
Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html><body> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>If you put 2K into this one, you can pick up another Guzzi this winter!</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR><BR>> > This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself. <BR>> > <BR>> > How much do you want to $pend? <BR>> <BR>> Without getting too specific... I've been saving for a bike for a few <BR>> years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had the cash to pay for it up <BR>> front. So, I'm in an interesting situation where I've already got a <BR>> sizeable chunk of cash that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this <BR>> bike found me, I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend <BR>> my money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom <BR>> floor. <BR>> <BR>> I was mentally prepared to spend $7k on a used sporty for a project <BR>> bike... the same class-less and generic bike that everyone else is <BR>> riding around. Now I'm thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for <BR>> $7k!?!?!" <BR>> <BR>> > How much time do you have? <BR>> <BR>> I'm hoping to supplant a different and less productive hobby with this <BR>> one. If I can pull it off, I'll have a fair amount of time. I'm not <BR>> even entertaining the thought that I'll get the bike running this <BR>> season. That gives me a very long and cold Minnesota winter to work <BR>> on it. If I could idle it in the garage over the winter, I'd be <BR>> happy. If I could tool around the neighborhood in the spring, I'd be <BR>> in heaven. <BR>> <BR>> > What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned? show <BR>> > bike, custom, stock? <BR>> <BR>> I'd like it to look like a very old bike that's been very well taken <BR>> care of. I don't want shiny new paint or a "right off the showroom <BR>> floor" look. I like the fact that the bike *looks* like it's been <BR>> around for a while, but, I don't want it to look like a bike that's <BR>> been in a shed for 10 years. <BR>> <BR>> > A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome. If the <BR>> > cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it. Why fix <BR>> > something that isn't broken (yet) <BR>> <BR>> I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too <BR>> wrench-happy. I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed <BR>> with it. That way when I'm putting it back together I can at least <BR>> know, "well, it worked before I messed with it!" <BR>> <BR>> Tonight I work late... Wednesday is a trip to the store for battery and oil. <BR>> <BR>> -- Bob </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_10670_1124214286_0-- ------------------------------ End of Loopfram-@topica.com digest, issue 2119 |