Subject: Re: Dying at stop
Author: Greg Field
Date: Jun 17, 2005, 7:08 AM
Post ID: 1719035691
Patrick is right in principle: you do not want to load your throwout
bearng, and the easy way to ensure that is by adequate freeplay at the
clutch lever. Follow his advice to the letter, if you can.
Sometimes, though, you must flout the rule to get by. My Eldo, for
example, despite all new clutch components 18 months ago, has a draggy
clutch. When it gets hot, it drags enough that I can never find neutral
at a stop if I have ANY freeplay at all in the clutch cable. In Seattle
traffic, this is unacceptable. On rides, I find myself tightening the
adjuster sometimes, even though there was no real freeplay to begin
with, as the clutch drags more and tries to pull me into intersections.
What I experience is the freeplay getting larger as the bike gets hot.
Eldos have a long clutch arm and a fairly stout spring pushing back on
that arm. The action of that spring can make it feel as if there is no
freeplay in the cable, cause there isn't. The spring pushing back takes
up all the freeplay on a well-lubed cable, BUT there can still be
freeplay between the little adjuster on the clutch arm and the outer
body of the throwout bearing, which is where it counts. You can have no
freeplay at the cable and yet be nowehere near loading the throwout.
The spring pressure you first feel is the pressure of the spring
pushing back on the clutch arm. Until all that is adjusted out by
LOADING the cable, you are in no danger of toasting a throwout bearing,
in my opinion.
GF
On Friday, June 17, 2005, at 06:06 AM, Greg Bender wrote:
| Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- FREE Zoobooks Elephants ISSUE and tiger POSTER! Is your child reading? Zoobooks is guaranteed to improve your child�s reading skills. Click below to sign up now! http://click.topica.com/caadCUzb1dfltb6KFeCa/Zoobooks ------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi AJ, Check for too much play at the hand lever. But, be careful not to adjust all of the play out of it. Our very own Patrick Hayes had an excellent write-up in the April 2005 MGNOC Newsletter on adjustment procedures. One other thing to keep in mind...you'll want the actuating arm/lever at the transmission to be pushed back as far as is practical so that you get good leverage action when you dissengage the clutch. With sufficient freeplay in the cable, you just loosen the jam nut and adjust the screw that comes into contact with the outer body of the throw-out bearing. May sound complicated, but the worst part is getting to the parts at the back of the transmission. As for gas caps and fuel levels...general loop lore has it that you only fill the tank up to the bottom of the filler neck. That, combined with a cap in good shape should prevent most leaks. If you really need a new cap, I've got a link to a universal one on my website from Dennis Kirk. Alternatively, you can trade your current one to Mark E (plus some greenbacks) and get and newly chromed original. That being said, I like to fill my tank up to the brim...which is why I'm always in search of better gas caps :> AJ Huff wrote:
Regards, Greg Bender 1971 Ambassador 2000 Quota http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender Florida MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc Minnesota MGNOC website http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor: ------------------------------------------------------------------- The Patented Natural Weight Loss Product Is Now Available Miracleburn� is the only product with Hoodia & Advantra-Z Get a Free 7-Day Sample plus a Free Promotional Gift Card http://click.topica.com/caadCUVb1dfltb6KFeCf/UrbanNutrition ------------------------------------------------------------------- |