Subject: Maiden Voyage 2
Author: Keith Ruff
Date: May 1, 2005, 8:02 PM
Post ID: 1718796282
Re-installed the left side petcock Friday eve and used teflon tape and
some blue RTC sealant smeared on the threads. Auto shop said the RTV is
fuel resistant, so I figured I would try it out. Box said it takes 1
hour to set, 24 to cure, so I let it go more than 36 hours (near 48 hrs)
before getting back out to the garage. Added fuel and thank god it did
not leak. Fired her up and went for a second maiden voyage. Bike ran
nice, once again it did not require a choke and she seems to get right
into a smooth idle. Ran her around town and a short stint on the local
highway to get her warmed up and ready for carb synchronizing and work
out any bugs. The oil light went out immediately after starting the
bike, so indeed the wire was shorting out as I had found out after
maiden voyage #1. Shifting was classic loop, clunk into gear, and if
you pussy footed the shifts, false nuetral. Gotta put my boots on and
hammer that shifter into gear! Shocks/suspension was nice! Had that
nice Eldorado ride, smooth, cushy, yet handled nicely.
Bugs that came out were the horn did not work (never realized this
before) and the right blinker was working itself out of the handle bar
due to the vibration. Got her home and went to work on the carbs 1st
while she was hot. They weren't too bad on the carb stix, left side was
working a little harder than the right. Got that balanced out and then
set the mixture, all per Pat Hayes' excellent instructions he sent me
way back when! They seem to be synched pretty well now. Next, worked
out the blinker mounting problem, then went over to the horn. Took off
the fairing (again) to check the wiring of the horn and switch in the
headlight. All diagnostics looked fine, then it dawned on me, what's
the chances the previous owner reversed the wires on the horn. Ah s@#t!
That's all it was! Headlight and fairing back on. Called my neighbor
(Cam) to hit him up for some black cable ties to put some finishing
touches on the front cables, then worked the fuel line fitment one more
time.
One thing I noticed with the petcocks was that with one open, gas did
not seem to want to flow. With both open, I could hear air bubbles in
the tank release as gas then flowed down the lines. Can't seem to
figure that one out. Even tried to open the tank with one petcock open
and gas would not flow until I opened the other petcock. ?????
Front brakes are a bit better than before, but nowhere near as good as
the 71 Ambo I had. I believe the 71 Ambo had an original cable with the
switch, and boy did she stop well. I could grab a handful of handle and
stop quick, though the front wheel would never lock upand the brake
handle would never go to the bar. If I pull hard on this 70 Ambo with
the MG Cycle brake cable with the switch, it feels sponguey and the
handle will go to the bar and the bike requires the rear brake also to
stop. Is this the norm for most loops with newer brake cables????? I
would love to try one of those beefy cables that Charlie has found but
really want the brake switch in the cable. Guess I'm this is as good as
it gets.
Only other bug that I can't figure out, nor do I think it warrants time
and disassembly, is the driveshaft boot drips oil after a ride. I now
have the 13" shocks, so migration shouldn't be a factor (bike had 11.5"
shocks when I got it). Receipts from the previous owner show that the
input and output seals were replaced in the tranny as well as a bunch of
other seals, but perhaps it is tranny fluid leaking back onto the
driveshaft? I guess it's not that bad of a deal, I'll just keep an eye
on the tranny and final drive fluid levels.
Sidecovers and Eagle decals should be here NLT Wed, that will finish the
project (for now of course, there's always something to work on with
these loops!). Looking forward to the Nationals!
Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ