Subject: RE: shadetree loop fork tool (long)
Author: Paul P. Linn
Date: Feb 25, 2005, 6:04 AM
Post ID: 1718453604
There is also a drain screw at the bottom of each fork leg. Remove this so
you can flush the leg out properly. You will need a fiber washer for it on
reassembly. You will also need the correct tool or a home made one to pull
the tube back up into the trees on reassembly.
Paul
73 Eldo "Elvira" 949 conversion
74 Eldo "Daisy" undergoing a full police restoration
-----Original Message-----
From: Custom Guzzi [mailto:paul-@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 8:54 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: shadetree loop fork tool (long)
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Bob,
You have to remove the front wheel first. Then remove dash to get to the big
nuts on top. Loosen these, but don't remove them yet. Next remove the pinch
bolts in the lower tree. Now you can remove the top nuts and slide the
entire fork down out of the trees. Dump old oil into container and if you
have an internal spring remove it also. There will be another big spring
that goes around the tube itself and sits in the chrome holders. Remove this
spring. Clamp lower leg at axle point in vise being careful to protect it
from damage. Use correct tool to remove the chrome collar. Fork seals are
located under the chrome collars. Next look for a tiny hole on the side of
the lower leg and insert a nail or other pointed object to hold the clip.
Use another pointed object to pry clip out from the inside. The hole is
there to hold the clip so it doesn't turn while trying to remove it. Once
it's out, you can now pull the fork tube out. If replacing the fork tubes,
you will need a special tool to remove the nut on the bottom. There is a big
oring around the lower leg below the threads and also one on the top fork
nuts. Make sure to keep the shims from each fork separate till your ready to
reassemble. Reassemble in the reverse order. Easy.
Paul
73 Eldo "Elvira" 949 conversion
74 Eldo "Daisy" undergoing a full police restoration
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hawkes [mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz]
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 11:35 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: shadetree loop fork tool (long)
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Ron, Bruce, Paul, Ray, Greg, Andy, Don, Keith and Bill,
Thanks very much to all who responded, I am really impressed, yet again by
this camaraderie! I too thought, per past mail threads on this topic, that
this was something best handled by an expert. You all make it sound
approachable.
Just a couple of questions, I have never done this on any bike so.....sorry
for the tedium (I'm not learning disabled just mechanically-cautious :>)); I
assume the front wheel has to come off?? I have had the top fork nuts off
and the springs exposed once when I tried to put in new fork oil. That's
the extent of the work I have done on the forks. So, all I know to do is
remove those two big nuts at the top of the each fork tube and I know there
is a big long spring in there. From there I know nothing. After I take the
springs out is there a tube inside that needs to be slid out from the top,
is that what you all are saying? Then, where are the nasty "fork seals" are
they on the tube that I extract somehow? I do understand basic shock
absorber design so I guess there are some big o-rings that need to be
replaced and those are the fork seals? Is that correct? Also, if this is
too tedious I will go to see Andy Hill or Joe Casey, in person (I will bring
gifts) and they can show me what the heck is going on.
Thanks again to all in this amazing Loop Family, Bob Hawkes
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Komoroski [mailto:motres-@lynchburg.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 8:46 AM
To: looperlist
Subject: shadetree loop fork tool (long)
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Loopers,
Fork assembly tool for the non machine shop/welder shadetree owner.
parts:
36" length of 1/4-20 allthread rod
3-7 1/4-20 nuts (depending on the version you are making)
2 fender washers, 1'' OD & center hole for 1/4" rod
1 1" one hole rubber stopper, (remember high school chem. lab?), or any
chunk of fairly stiff rubber that can be carved into a cylinder w/a 1" OD at
least 1" tall w/ a centered 1/4" hole through the length of the cylinder. (I
have used a stack of rubber washers, & even a piece of very thick wall
rubber hose for this) piece of metal for a handle (optional)
assembly
| From one end of the rod screw on one nut, followed by a fender washer, then |
the end of the rod ( tighten them against each other so they won't come
loose) .
At the other end of the rod, either bend about 6" over to make to make a
handle, or. drill a hole in the center of your scrap metal handle, screw on
two nuts, slip on your handle then 2 more nuts. Lock the first pair of nuts,
turn the top pair down tight against your handle then lock the top two.
use
Put the rubber end of your tool down through the triple trees & into the top
of the fork tube until the top fender washer is just below the top of the
tube (allow your self room to get an open end wrench on that top nut
freely). Hold the handle to keep the rod from turning & tighten down the top
nut. As the rubber is compressed between the two washers, it will be pushed
out and lock into the threads in the top of the fork tubes. Then, pull the
fork tube up into the triple trees w/the tool. You'll have to trial & error
as to how tightly the top nut has to be cranked down to get the hold you
need. If it starts to slip as you are pulling, just crank the nut a little
tighter. When the fork tube is far enough up into the top triple tree that
you can get a wrench on the top nut, it's up far enough to screw in the top
plug & pull it up the last 1/2" or so into the taper as you tighten the
plug.. Hold the handle & back off the nut, the rubber will relax & the tool
slip right out. Be sure you are supporting the bottom of the fork tube, or
have snugged the bolt on the bottom triple tree before you loosen the nut,
you don't want the tube to drop back down!!
I came up w/this tool when I had to get into my first Ambo's forks, about
1978, & have thrown one together whenever I've needed one ever since. I've
even dispensed w/the handle altogether & just clamped the top of the rod
w/vice grips (REALLY shandtree!) Until Dec/02, I worked in an R&D lab & had
access to rubber stoppers, but they can be had (along w/ more neat "stuff"
than you can shake a stick at) from "American Science & Surplus"
www.sciplus.com
Happy forking!
Ron Komoroski
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