Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive
 

Subject: RE: rear drive rebuild

Author: Ray Hale

Date: Feb 15, 2005, 3:51 PM

Post ID: 1718397302


John,
thanksm for the reminder. It is indeed the low plug. I never trust such
things anyway. learned that lesson a long time ago with VW reduction
boxes. Drain the whole damn thing and replace with measured quantity is
the only way to go.
Ray

John Chicoine wrote:
 
Ray:

Make sure you don't have one with the level plug in the wrong location
if
you're going to use it as a lube level indicator. Best to premeasure
the
lube b4 adding or you could smoke you drive.

John

67 V700, Ambo's & Eldo's


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Hale" <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 4:38 PM
Subject: RE: rear drive rebuild


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Greg,
I'd already read and re-read your stuff and Pete's. Very helpful.
Thanks. The components are really straight forward in this rear box.
Nothing tricky it seems. Of course I've yet to attempt shimming but
right now it seems the really difficult part will be to obtain a variety
of shims. Not exactly standard fair.

I've taken good pics of everything as I disassembled this afternoon.
Will try to get them into a Powerpoint presentation and maybe my son
will post on his website for me. (hint, hint)

The pinion is 8 teeth and the crown is 37. I gather this is rather
standard. Any opinions here? I'd like to be able to cruise at 75-80 MPH,
2-up, with camping gear strapped on. The chromed case I am transplanting
everything into is an older case with the lower drain plug and smaller
sized lubrication vents inside. There is one small, hopefully
insignificant outside shape difference. Both boxes, the one on the bike
when I bought it, and the chrome one I purchased, have the same part #.

I will replace seals of course but not sure about bearings. They appear
and feel great. No signs of unusual wear on the pinion and crown teeth
or the bearing races. Probably silly to do this just for the chrome but
I was curious what was inside there anyway and find myself with nothing
but time on my hands for a while. Another mystery unraveled.
Ray
PS - I smell like old gear fluid. Might be sleeping in the den tonight.
Even the dog doesn't want to come close. Cats are curious, however.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Ray,

If you haven't already, I've put all of my very limited wisdom on this
subject on my website. See:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Rear_drive_/_bevel_box_rebuilds

 


Ray Hale wrote:
 
Hi,
Well, I'm sequestered at home for two months now and decided to tear
apart the rear drive on the Eldo, as a project to keep from dying of
boredom. I will begin after lunch today. I have read the shop manual,
some stuff off various websites and it looks like shimming the pinion is


the critical event.

I visited Stan Friduss and Mike Myers (Myers Racing) briefly this
morning and with their encouragement decided to proceed. Stan's advice
was not to rely only on the dial indicator method of shimming but didn't


elaborate as he and Mike were on their way to pick up parts to rebuild
for Daytona. I'll share what I learn of course. I'm taking pics every
step of the way, also.

Any sage advice as I begin? I figure if I can do this, I'll tackle the
trans next. Ian says the rear drive is the final frontier. Ian...you and


Ed raise a mug or two in my direction will ya? I'm going in. Can't be
any worse than trying to line up (and keep 'em lined up) pushrods on an
old A10 beezer while putting the top end together. That's a thankless
task. Or changing a starter motor on a '61 Ford with a big V8, or trying


to find the rear spark plug on a Chrysler, or #3 on a 356 Porsche. The
list goes on.
Ray

pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender



pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

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pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

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