Subject: Re: Eldo high, Eldo low
Author: Patrick Hayes
Date: Jan 14, 2005, 1:21 PM
Post ID: 1718211975
Steve Farris wrote:
| tuning in outdoors without gassing myself. Went to do that yesterday. Bike started right up but ran poorly (somewhat expected) for 3 blocks, died and wouldn't start. Pushed it back to shop, let it sit, fired right up again. I think it's running too rich (haven't been able to pull plugs yet to verify). I was thinking I'd try to lean out the carbs, clean the plugs, and advance the timing a little and see if that helps. Anyone else have any ideas? One problem might be that I couldn't find anything about |
First issue: Do you understand how the enricheners function? They are
NOT chokes. They are either on or off, no halfway turning of the choke
lever. Open the enricheners to start the bike, control the idle by hand
for a few minutes, turn the enricheners full off.
Second issue: When you turn off the enrichener lever, it is vitally
important that the enrichener plungers go to the full bottom of their
bores and seal completely. VERY often, people adjust the cables with
little or no slack and the plungers hang partway open. Make sure there
is an abundance of slack in the enrichener cables when you have the hand
lever turned off.
Third issue: The carb BIG screw. The large, exposed, knurled screw
that you can turn by fingers has nothing to do with mixture. It is a
bottom stop for the vertical carb slide. It only controls idle speed.
Back the screw out, the slide drops further and obscures more of the air
passage, and the idle speed is less. Screw it in and vice versa. NEVER
move these screws with the carb slides sitting on them. It is a very
heavy load on the fine tips of the screws. They can be damaged or bent.
If you want to turn this screw, always lift the slides slightly by the
hand throttle and lower them back down after the screw has been turned.
Also, the carb slide is soft metal and the screw can damage the base
of the slide.
Fourth issue: The carb SMALL screw. The little, recessed screw
controls idle fuel/air mixture. It doesn't have any effect once you
have accelerated and are running down the road. Lean/Rich mixtures
while going down the road are controlled by the size and position of the
big metering needle at the bottom of the slide, and by the jet that
this metering needle slides through.
Fifth issue: Tell us again how much engine work you did. Had the heads
off? Retorqued the heads and adjusted the valves? Just one heat cycle
and the gaskets will compress, the valve adjustments go way off, and you
need to re-torque and reset. With a fresh engine, run it for five
minutes, park it overnight, torque and reset the valves, do it again
after 200 miles.
Sixth issue: Why do you suggest advancing the timing? It is either
correct at idle or it is not. Once you get the engine running well and
sorted out, you can fiddle with the timing for a few degrees to
compensate for fuel quality. But, if it started and ran nicely for
three blocks, then timing is the last place I'd look.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA