Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: Generator Bracket Question/Rear Fender

Author: Keith Ruff

Date: Nov 16, 2004, 7:21 PM

Post ID: 1717897381



Got to inspect the Generator Bracket this eve and it appears to be fine.
Bolts are in straight and are tight. The culprit of my flexing,
however, is a missing locating pin. Spoke with Mark E this eve and he
will be sending one my way. He also gave me a Gen install/bracket 101
class as well as an overall Loopframe mechanics 101 class - what a great
guy. Looks like I have some more checks and balances to do while he is
painting all of my sheetmetal. Which brings up another question, if
anyone has a solid rear fender available for sale, please let me know.
The one that came off of my bike was a POS according to Mark, so I need
a good workable one. I am tracking a few on e-bay, but if a member has
one available, let me know.

Thanx.

Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ

STEVE FARRIS wrote:
 Ian,
as Greg said, Guzzi recommends replacement when the disc's are down to
7.5mm, I thought my plates looked "not too bad" when I took it apart but
the caliper gave their thickness as 6.83mm. might be one reason it
wasn't working too well :-)
Steve
PS when I get it together I will send you info on my loops to update
your list.
SF

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Adkins
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 4:47 AM
Subject: RE: Generator Bracket Question


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Hi All,

I began tearing into Baretta's engine yesterday. Everything looked ok as
I
removed the ring gear, clutch assembly and flywheel. Lots of clutch dust
had
accumulated but everything looked solid. Does anyone know the wear
limits on
the plates? The ones in there had a fair bit left but I'll likley go
with
new clutch plates anyways. That will leave me with two sets of plates
with a
fair bit of material on them...but I've done my time removing engines to
get
to the plates :-)

As for the generator bracket...looked like the PO (or whomever did the
work)
had been too lazy to remove the oil line to get a straight shot at the
bolts
so installed them at an angle. I'll have to helicoil (or timesert as
suggested). What is the diameter that should be used to predrill the
hole? I
am wondering if the aluminum might be weakened by drilling the tap hole.
I
am assuming that I should red loctite the inserts in place?

I will get to the top end tonight. Feels good to finally get into the
engine....Ian

>
> Keith:
> The generator should be pretty solid, while you have the tank off you
> should definitely take a few minutes and take the generator off to
> inspect the bracket. I've seen them cracked on the bottom between a
> mounting hole and the side; sometimes a bolt comes loose and strips out
> the aluminum threads in the engine case, possibly from being overtorqued
> by someone before it got to you; always be mindful when cranking down on
> a bolt threaded into softer aluminum threads. In one instance a PO
> broke off one of the bolts in the case and retapped the remains for a
> smaller one, nice piece of bodge work.
> I've welded another piece of steel over the complete bottom of the
> inside of the bracket as a repair (doesn't change the tension
> dimension), and have done the standard repair of helicoils (better yet,
> Timesertshttp://www.timesert.com/) and replaced the bolts with
> locktited studs with nylock nuts and star lockwashers to hold the
> bracket down. You'll need an angle drill attachment to do this with the
> engine in the frame, I can lend you one if you go that route..
>
> John Prusnek
>
>

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