Subject: RE: progress
Author: Charlie Mullendore
Date: Nov 3, 2004, 3:57 PM
Post ID: 1717818376
Hi Steve,
STEVE FARRIS wrote:
| Hi all, a little update on what I've been up to. Got the recalcitrant float pin out of the carb. After PB Blaster, hot/cold, and took enough away from the carb body with a jeweler's file to grip the end and withdraw it. Found a replacement swingarm from a low miles Eldorado with U-joint, driveline, and all bearings. Got the engine out, and pulled the trans case off. That's where she's setting now. A few questions. 1) Should I go ahead and re-use the bearings in the new/used (10K mi.) swingarm? (I plan to pull the Driveline/engine again for sure next winter to implement Phase 2 of rebuilding process). |
If you mean the swingarm pivot bearings, yes. The cardan joint (u-joint)
carrier bearing if it turns without "notchiness" and the u-joint is a
tight fit in it. If not, I'd replace it.
| 2) I haven't pulled the clutch apart yet to check out what kind of shape it's in because I heard a rumor that re-assembly can be a bitch. I'd appreciate any hints in that area. |
I think there's some tips about this on Mike Skaggs' website
(http://www.classicguzzi.com). Check it out.
| 3) I want to clean up all the oxidized aluminum on the engine/trans to get the stains etc. off of it. What work's best? I've read some about Eagle 1, but nothing that says which one of the E1 products would be most appropriate. Also I really don't want to use anything that requires me to have to spray a lot of water on the casings until I'm ready to tear them down and go through the innards (Phase 2), unless someone knows some good hints to keep water from getting into where it shouldn't go. |
I use the Eagle 1 etching for rough cast wheels. You will need to
thoroughly rinse if you use this! I used Gunk degreaser first and
scrubbed with a stiff toothbrush and stainless steel bristle brush. Then
the Eagle 1 with more brushing, rinse, dryed with compressed air, more
Eagle where needed with more brushing, repeat as necessary. Rinse,
rinse, rinse. After that a baking soda bath just in case any of the
Eagle 1 was still hangin' on. Then finally S100 and another good
rinsing. I tape over the intake ports and breather pipes with duct tape
and plug the exhaust ports with big, tight fitting rubber stoppers.
Cover the distributor with a plastic bag and duct tape to seal. Unless
you have breather lines from the valve covers (the Convert engine I just
did had them - plug with a bolt), everything else should be okay. This
is assuming the generator, starter and carbs are off, of course. On the
trans I use multi-colored and sized plastic block-offs (from NAPA) to
cover the speedo cable connection. Tape over the breather (or cap it on
some 5-spds). Once everything is back together, run a while then change
all the lubes. No worries. Cheers,
Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/