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The nub sticks out from the shift drum. With the tab up, only the tip
of the tab is in close proximity to the nub, rather than a long length
of flat brass, as when the tab is pointing down. It's much easier to
control contact between the small tip of the tab and the knob than to
control that long length of brass so near the shift drum. Adjust the
tab so its tip can contact the nub but not the base circle of the drum.
Put in neutral. Adjust tab so there's continuity between the tab's
stud and the tranny case. Then try first. Make sure there's no
continuity. Bend tab as necessary to get continuity only in neutral.
Then you can trust the light.
GF
On Friday, October 15, 2004, at 08:36 AM, Greg Bender wrote:
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Hi Greg,
Do you bend the tab when adjusting it for continuity with the volt
meter? Do you put the tab up so that it makes better contact with the
nub on the shift drum? Inquiring minds want to know!
Greg Field wrote:
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I put the tab up. Then adjust it for continuity (using a DVM) only on
actual neutral, and the light will never lie to you again.
While you're in there, shim the shift drum. Makes a huge difference in
shifting.
GF
On Friday, October 15, 2004, at 06:50 AM, Greg Bender wrote:
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Hi Ian,
The tab on the neutral indicator should point down. I can't remember
if
you are working on a 4 or 5 speed transmission, but you may want to
check out my site or the guzzi tech site...both have some helpful
info.
If you are working on a 4 speed, I even have a diagram for how the
shift
return spring is to be installed. hope this helps...
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
loopframe.htm#Neutral_indicator_switch
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_images/
shift_return_spring.gif
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
loopframe.htm#Transmission_bearing_sizes
http://www.guzzitech.com/
Ian Adkins wrote:
| |
Hey All,
I will be putting the tranny back together this weekend and I had a
couple
of questions and observations.
The neutral indicator tab. Does it need to have the curve at the end
go
up
or down? I am thinking that it needs to be up so that the outside
part
of
the curve sits against the nub on the drum.
I noticed that one of the bearing races was easily removed from its
housing.
Lock tited it in place. I read in the manual that those need to be
secured
before putting the shafts in. I didn't know that before...know that
now
:-)
Has anyone ever had trouble installing the shift return spring? Not
the
actual installation but having the ends not want to stay on the pin?
I am looking forward to getting the tranny back together. I hate the
thought
of having that thing apart any longer that neccessary. I am also
planning a
weekend of work on getting the frame painted and preped for
reassembly.
Will
be a touch of winter here in the south so riding will be placed on
the
back
burner.
By the way....we are still planning to head out to Barbers next Sat
(Oct
23). Plan is forming that we will meet at I20 and Highway 61 on Sat
morn
at
the Waffle House. Provided that the expected rains hold off we will
be
there. I'll update you all through the week.
Ciao...Ian |
Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
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Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
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