| | Ian:
My 4mm clutch was getting a little sticky after 50,000 miles. When I
pulled it apart a few weeks ago, it was packed full of dust and crap.
Cleaned all that out and lubed it, and it works good.
GF
On Monday, July 21, 2003, at 09:12 AM, Ian Adkins wrote:
| | Greg,
Interesting. I thought about doing this when I pulled the tranny on the
White Eldo but I was worried that the tranny would not be able to
clear the
rear frame supports. I ended up pulling the whole engine.
If my clutch still grabs when I test it later in the week I will have
to
pull the engine again :-( If I have to I will pull the tranny in the
method
you used.
Thanks....Ian
| | -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Field [mailto:gre-@cwizard.com]
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 11:17 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Removing trannies
This weekend I had to replace a rear main bearing on the 4LS
"Helldorado" and discovered how little you really have to remove to
get
the tranny out.
Here's all I had to do:
1) Remove battery
2) Remove air cleaner
3) Remove battery tray
4) Undo bolts and pull coil out of its carrier
5) Undo bolts on muffler hangers and loosen muffler clamps
6) Undo headpipe nuts and pull headers forward to clear the exhaust
ports and roatate headers outward
7) Remove gen-belt cover
8) Remove upper shock-mount bolt and pull shocks free from the upper
mount
9) Undo the swingarm spindles and front clamp on u-joint boot and pull
swingarm back about 1/2 inch
10) Put a jack in place to support back of engine.
11) Remove back engine bolt and jack up at the back of the engine
until
the gen pulley starts pushing against the horn
12) Remove starter
13)Remove the nuts that clamp tranny to engine
14) Undo the clutch cable from tranny
15) Pull back on tranny until it's free and remove out of left side of
frame
In the past, I always completely removed the exhaust and generator and
carbs and rear wheel, making it a much longer job.
GF |
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