| | You don't need a timing light. Set the static timing from the left
cylinder.
A simple test lihgt will do. Set left cylinder to second notch from left
on
pulley. Rotate the distributor till the test light comes on. You're
done. I
have done this with three Loops now and have never had to adjust.
| | -----Original Message-----
From: 3haw-@bluefrog.biz [mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 7:02 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Fast Idle
Darrell,
THanks, yes, finally took the airbox off and the carb venturis and lo
and
behold the damned cables were keeping the slides from going all the way
to
the bottom. Didn't believe this until I saw it. Won't make that
mistake
again. After I made slack in cables she idled pretty nicely.
Now just have
a problem with the staboard cylinder not firing again. More on
that later.
Will get in the shed soon and check ignition timing, man I really suck
at
timing even though I have a nice timing light etc. Sure is nice to have
buds like you et al here to help me with this stuff! Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Dick <ddic-@juno.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Fast Idle
| | Hi Bob,
Someone has probably already mentioned this, but do you have plenty of
slack in your throttle cables? Have you checked the ignition timing? It
may be too far advanced at idle.
regards,
Darrell Dick
Imlay City, MI
On Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:42:38 -0500 3haw-@bluefrog.biz writes:
| | Charlie et al,
They are the square carbs VHB 29s. Here's what I tried so far:
1. Tried switching the slides around but they really only seem to
go one
way, big side toward engine, as the top adjustment screw hits the
body of
the slide when I install it other way around.
2. Tried dropping the slide needles to their lowest point so that it
would
let in as little fuel as possible. Also, tried middle and top
settings and
bike still ideled real fast.
3. Checked to be sure the enrichers (chokes) were really pressing
down on
the bottoms of their repective seats. Cables were nice and slack.
4. I put high-temp silicone on both sides of the head gasket
before
assembly. Also, put silicone on the hex nuts and on the fiber
washers of the
intake tubes.
5. I rebuilt the carbs with viton O-rings on the accelerator pump,
new paper
gaskets on the slide towers etc. I don't think there's an air leak
in the
towers.
6. I checked for air leaks in the intake tubes by spraying starting
fluid
on them while bike was idling and it didn't rev any higher, that I
noticed.
7. Ian said to check to see that I didn't inadvertantly put the
main jet on
the accelerator pump and vice versa. I can't imagine making such a
rookie
error but I will check that.
8. Just tonight I was gooping more silicone near the clamps that
connect
the carb to the intake tubes just in case there is enough air leak
to make
her rev but not noticeable when I spray the starting fluid.
That about covers it. Any suggestions are appreciated. Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Mullendore <Ambo-@netscape.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: Replies to Bob and Keith
Hi Bob,
I can't remember, does your bike have the old Dellorto SS1 carbs
(round
slide vs. square, detachable float bowl assy.)? Just thought we
should be
sure of what carbs we're dealing with! Cheers,
Charlie
3haw-@bluefrog.biz wrote:
| | Michael,
Which screw is the "throttle stop" the big screw on top or the |
| | on bottom? BOb
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Jones <mjon-@yahoo.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 3:12 PM
Subject: Replies to Bob and Keith
| | "There's a lip on the slide that fits into a
groove in the bottom of the carb. I took a look in
the manual and I did
install the slides correctly (I think). Bob"
Bob, my version of the manual has the slides pictured
backwards! Maybe yours does to. And the throttle stop
screw screws OUT to lower the idle, not in.
Keith, I think my manual recommends 10w oil, which is
what I was using until several people recommended I go
to 20w to get some damping out of a very lightly
damped fork design. I can't tell the difference, but I
am using BelRay 20w now. The weight of your oil won't
effect how low the bike sits on the fork, as far as I
can see, but I agree with Charlie that heavier oil
makes more sense of you then lighter, as it may lesson
the chance of toping out after rebounding.
It's been a while since I took my forks apart, so I'll
let someone else answer that question.
-Mike (69 Ambo)
=====
M.Jones, student of philosophy and religion at Temple |
|
| | Philadelphia, PA.
| |
"The heart has its reasons which reason does not know." -Blaise |
|
| | | | "With man, instinct and reason avoid each other with adversity, |
|
| | repudiating each other they lure each other to reach mutual
correction." -Lucian Blaga
| |
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