Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Thanks for advice on Fork Assembly Problem, TFN

Author: Martin Cooke

Date: Feb 20, 2002, 9:14 AM

Post ID: 1709683784


reading L&A Robertsons(?) post got me interested in the nicasil process,
this is what i found if anyone is interested:

"Nicasil is NOT a coating as such, it is a process whereby the
chemical constitution of the aluminium alloy itself is changed to
withstand the action of the rings scuffing against it.

It is ONLY used on the barrel, i.e. the inside of the cylinder, the
surface against which the rings scrape. It is not used on piston-
crowns nor cylinder heads, as these have no need for low-friction
surface.

Because aluminium is way too soft and far too abrasive to cope
with rings scuffing along it, the first aluminium cylinders had steel
inserts, then chromated sleeves, but the Nicasil is the modern way.

Not only Hirth, but many other manufacturers use this process,
pioneered by Mahle in Germany many years ago. Very simply,
they coat the cylinder with a Nickel-rich clay (ceramic) then bake it
at very high temperature. Finally they machine off the glazed
ceramic down to the original dimensions, where the newly re-
exposed aluminium surface is now much tougher and extremely
resistant to abrasion, known as Nicasil-treated cylinder wall.

Nicasil treated aluminium cylinders are sieze-resistant, but not
entirely sieze-proof. Even if they do suffer a severe heat seizure,
you often need to replace the rings (and often piston too) but the
cylinder is usually still perfect. Only if some of the piston rubbed
off onto the cylinder-wall, do you need to "scrape" this contaminant
aluminium deposits off the cylinder, using a cylinder-honer.

This Cylinder-honer is an expensive device, not to be confused with
the "cheaper" spring-loaded gadget fitted to a hand-drill.

The proper honer will remove aluminium deposits without damaging
the Nicasil surface. The cheaper device, springloaded, three-
legged abrasive-pads, is used mostly to remove "glazing" from the
cylinder, a contaminant from burning gasoline and oil, which
undergoes high-temperature polymerisation and caramelisation.

Yes, gasoline constituents could break down into various sugars
(curcular hydro-carbon chains), which could then form caramel of
sorts. This is that brown goo often found on the exhaust (hot) side
of the piston.

Glazing is usually invisible but can be identified by the way it
reflects light.

Excessive use of an anti-glazing cylinder-honer will eventually
remove your Nicasil layer, leading to constant seizures of the rings
against the exposed aluminium ally.

If your barrel really needs a good honing after a severe seizure,
rather take it into a decent 2-stroke workshop for a proper job."


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----- Original Message -----
From: "L&A Robertson" <lymana-@earthlink.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: Thanks for advice on Fork Assembly Problem, TFN


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Nickasil is nickel chrome blend the nickel is the common bond material
between chrome and aluminum I cked from a German BMW site as they were the
first to use it the combination favors nickel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Cooke" <cook-@virgin.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: Thanks for advice on Fork Assembly Problem, TFN


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yes, i think it's a layer of silicone over nickel.

cookie


 
David,
Nikasil is derived from a combination of Nickel and Silicone, I am
told.
 
 
 Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: David Whalen <haircutti-@yahoo.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: Thanks for advice on Fork Assembly Problem, TFN


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Thanks to all for recommendations.
I'll let you know how I make out.

dw
--- Martin Cooke <cook-@virgin.net> wrote:
 
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might be same thread as hole in fork top nut.
unfortunately to slip though
the clamp, the nut must be off.

i've done it once with a modified broom handle
screwed into fork tubes.

cookie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Flanagan" <FLAN-@edwardsbaking.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:49 PM
Subject: RE: Fork Assembly Problem


 
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I had heard from a previous post that the brake
rod has the same threads
as
 the top fork plug and can be used to pull them up.
Anybody confirmed this?
 
Ed Flanagan

>-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Graf [SMTP:kgr-@midwestpension.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 10:42 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Fork Assembly Problem


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 >
Dave,
Sorry to hear that. If what I think happened,
happened. Then there is a
 >special tool for this job. Which screws into the
top of the fork tube
and
 >allows you to pull the tube up through the
headlight tin, leg, triplr
 >tree,whatever.
In the past I have used a 1 inch x 1 inch piece
of wood inserted into
the
 >fork tube. Then with duct tape, tapes the leg to
the wood. The less tape
 >the
better, it'll be tight getting it through the
triple trees with the
tape.
 >a
bit of grease wouldn't hurt either. Be careful
of the fine threads in
the
 >tubes.
Good luck.

-----Original Message-----
From: David Whalen
[mailto:haircutti-@yahoo.com]
 >Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 10:03 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Fork Assembly Problem



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 >

I replaced steering head bearings yesterday in
my 74
 >Eldo. Upon reassembly, the bike fell over to the
left
 >off the motorcycle lift (jack) as it was lowered
too
 >much while I was trying to jockey the lower
triple
 >tree (with front wheel and fork assembly intact)
to
 >the bottom of the steering axle (stem). Then,
when I
 >righted the bike and refitted the motorcycle
lift I
 >noticed that the interior threaded part of the
left
 >fork assembly had "fallen down" into the outer
portion
 >of the fork tube thereby making it impossible to
refasten that side of the fork assembly to the
upper
 >triple plate. The right side was fine, however.
Has
 >anyone had this experience who might share some
insight.

dw


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