Subject: RE: Eldo REgulator Performance
Author: Derek Hamlet
Date: Sep 2, 2001, 8:35 PM
Post ID: 1708093869
Tom,
Many Thanks. I will be returning the regulator on tues. I believe it is
the faulty/guilty party.
There is no question the battery is charging; just no cutout or at least
not before 17+ volts.
I may have screwed up the installation and polarizing, but, I don't think so.
Actually this weekend has not been a dead loss.
The magneto coil on my old /2 BMW has become faulty when warm. They are
expensive to replace, big time. So I converted it to battery/coil ignition
using a 6 volt dual output Harley type coil. It hides nicely under then
tank and cannot be seen. In addition, I can switch back to mag in an
emergency simply by switing two wires. That was nifty.
At 03:12 AM 9/3/01 +0000, you wrote:
| ============================================================ Explore the jungle in your backyard -- FREE! eNature has bird sounds, Animal Finder, Field Guides, experts, activities and more for a suburban safari you'll never forget. http://click.topica.com/caaac38b1dfltb2Koq3a/eNature ============================================================ OK Derek, more charging system advice and analysis is on its way. First of all a standard Bosch-type regulator has five terminals. They are; B+, which goes to the battery's positive terminal, D+, which goes to the positive terminal of the generator, DF, which goes to the field terminal of the generator, 61, which is used for polarizing, and the most important terminal, the ground screw. There is only one field terminal on the Bosch generators, although there are two internal field leads. You only need to be concerned about the one which exits the generator via the DF terminal. Given the amount of wierdness with your charging system lately you should probably try the following. 1) Make sure all of the ground connections going from the battery, regulator and engine/frame are clean and tight. Also check the positive battery cable and make sure it's connections are good. 2) Add a ground lead, using #12 or #10 wire and a couple of ring lugs, between the generator (use one of the screws that bolts the end bells of the generator together) and the distributor mounting bolt. Now I will grant you that this step is optional, but if you have any corrosion between the case of the generator and its mount this is the only way to assure that the generator has a proper path for the D- to ground (B-) connection. 3) Check all of your other wiring connections at both the regulator and the generator. Make sure that none of the wiring or terminals has turned green and moldy looking. Make sure all screws are tight and that none of the hardware is rusted out. 4) Pull the cover off the regulator and look for a pitted set of points on the cutout relay. Chances are they have stuck together at one time, which is why your generator wanted to act as a motor. If the contact is pitted, file it with a points file, being careful not to alter the spacing of the contacts. 5) After you have done all of this, fire the bike up and see if the voltage at the positive terminal of the battery is at about 13.5 volts. If it is much higher than this you will boil the water out of the battery. If it is much lower the battery will be undercharged. In either case return the regulator and try another. Tom '70 (July '69) Ambassador 99.8% Complete, 10% Left To Go '82 V50-III Shelby Township, Michigan Derek Hamlet wrote:
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Victoria, British Columbia