Subject: Re: the oil leak saga continues...into headwork

No need. the bottom of the cyclinders are chanmfered quite nicely. just
takes patience and just the right amount of cussing.

On my bmw I would use the compressor to get the piston into the cylinder and
then push it down just enough to get the wristpin in after I had gotten the
whole mess on to the bike.

From: Chris Berry <guzzis-@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: the oil leak saga continues...into headwork
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 23:29:28 -0400

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That's another thing...I would like to do that too. Is a ring compressor
really needed? All the ones I have seen are made for pressing a piston
down
into a block, not pressing the cylinder on the piston. I guess an air
cooled VW one would do it, but haven't seen one around...maybe I'm not
looking hard enough.
Also, has anyone out there had their heads ported and polished, three angle
valve job (if possible), port matched, etc.? If so who did it, how much
did
it cost, and did it make a big difference in power?
Thanks!
Chris in NC

From: Patrick Hayes <peha-@aol.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: the oil leak saga continues
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 19:52:37 EDT

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In a message dated 7/10/01 3:21:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
guzzis-@hotmail.com writes:

I'll check them when I feel the gumption to pull the head...probably

this

winter since the bikes leaked there for three years at least. Acouple

months won't hurt a bit.

Yes, the rocker carrier frames have a countersink recess in the bottom to
squish the O-rings against the top of the head and the cylinder studs.
There
are four up there.

Since you're not desperate and you'll wait until winter, I would do the
job
properly. After pulling all this stuff off, I'd also pull the cylinder to
replace the base gasket and the two O-rings down there (see, now there are
a
total of six, just like the studs). The upper and lower studs have
O-rings
at the bottom of the cylinder between the base gasket and the cylinder.
Again, the cylinders have a little coutersink recess to handle the squish.

After you do all this work, you will need to torque the heads and adjust
the
valves 3 or 4 times over 2,000 miles. What a waste to do it all and then
discover that an old, hard base o-ring is now also leaking. If one is
hard
and cracked, then obviously all six are suspect. Do the whole thing.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

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Subject: Re: the oil leak saga continues...into headwork

Author: Zerhackermann .

Date: Jul 10, 2001, 9:03 PM

Post ID: 1707444690

Entire thread: