Subject: RE: Brake question
Author: Peter Scheer
Date: May 4, 2001, 7:45 AM
Post ID: 1706591530
Just to add a couple of cents to Jays comment. I did not notice the wear
"groove" you did. But I did get the same reduction of friction surface
because the aftermarket pads are a bit larger in diameter and maybe
different in arc also. I had the wheel off about 12 times, and filing the
pads down each time until I got it to first fit and then to begin braking.
Very weak at first.
I used the concept of letting the shoes seat themselves by running the bike
and doing some hard braking. Now after about 300 miles I have definitely
seen a major improvement in the braking action. Much better. I'm
talking front brakes. The rears are still stock original. Seems to skid
the tire at low speeds.
| -----Original Message----- From: Jay Williams [SMTP:cj7-@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 10:33 AM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: Re: Brake question ============================================================ It's Blues! It's Blues Traveler! It's Taj Mahal! It's At the Beach! It doesn't get any better than this! Doheny Blues Festival * May 19-20 * Best Two Days in SoCal! http://click.topica.com/caaab06b1dfltb15Bu9a/doheny ============================================================ I had the exact problem when I redid the brakes on my '71 Ambo. So far as I can tell, here's the deal: After 25 years or so, the drums will have worn slightly where the old pads have rubbed aginst their inner diameter. Due to manufacturing tolerances, the replacement pads don't run in exactly the same "groove" as the old pads, (or made be made fractionally wider.) Upon brake application, only that portion of the brake pad outside the groove will make contact, and that interference causes the rest of the brake lining to be "suspended" above the drum surface. The small portion of the pad that actually contacts the drum is enough to cause drag, but prevents enough surface area contact between the brake shoe and drum to stop the bike in a reasonable fashion. The proper solution is to have the drum turned. But I couldn't find anyone locally who could do the job unless I dissasembled it from the rim. Not being anxious to do that, my alternative solution was to chamfer the edges of the bake pads with a hand file. That allowed the shoe to drop into the already worn drum surface. I didn't take off much material, but it worked. Braking improved 300%, at least, and I was able to adjust the cable to get full application of the brake before the lever hits the handlebar. Still doesn't stop like a good set of discs, but certainly adequate and no longer scary. Jay Williams Hi All, I have a question relating to the front brake on my 69 and 70 Ambos. Both brakes are solid with good drums and lots of pad (4mm out of 5mm). My problem is that when I adjust the brake so that the pad is just about to touch the drum in free wheel (brake off) then I don't have enough lever pull to get the brakes to fully grab. What I mean by that is that when I squeeze the lever I get to the end (hits the handlebar) before I get maximum braking. I was practicing this yesterday. At 20-30mph I was pulling the front brake to max. I just can't get the braking performance I want. It's kind of like a 1960's antilock braking system :-) Any suggestions as to what I can do to get the cable/lever tightened up so I can get all the pull I want? Anyone else experience this? I guess I could always tighten up the cable play but that would mean the drums would be rubbing on the pads during free wheel. Thanks....Ian = _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com ============================================================ Absolutely FREE magazines - FOREVER! Qualify for FREE magazines brought to you by freebizmag.com. It's the smart way to stay on top of your industry. Don't miss out! - Click here now http://click.topica.com/caaab3mb1dfltb15Bu9f/Aptimus ============================================================ |