Subject: Re: Neutral sensor
Author: Ian Adkins
Date: Mar 24, 2001, 7:47 AM
Post ID: 1706018132
Hunter,
Very funny :-)
And to think that I almost (once) removed that neutral indicator. I think
that I will leave mine well enough alone...inspite of my bike trying to
trick me by telling me that it is in neutral when in fact it isn't. I've
gotten use to never trusting it anyways....adds to the character of the bike
:-)
Regards....Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: Hunter Jones <hhjo-@mindspring.com>
To: Loopfram-@topica.com <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Date: March 24, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Neutral sensor
Hi Paul, I think I can help your neutral light woes. The neutral light switch consists of two basic parts: 1) a highly sophisticated straight piece of brass with a little bend at the end and 2) a bump. The bump is on the shift drum that controls the shift forks that bang all the expensive steel bits into each other at the riders whim. The deal is this: If you happen to get the bike into neutral (I learned eventually) the bump on the shift drum should be in the one and only spot that will allow it to contact the...uhhhh...contact. This grounds the neutral light circuit and the lamp comes on (I have a green one). I learned as you have (the hard way) that when you go screwin' around with the connector there on the transmission the whole plan heads down Anarchy Avenue to get a beer. What happened is that when the nut on the stud is disturbed on the thirty-ish year old transmission the stud gets turned out of position. The contact is a wide flat beast and if not in PERFECT alignment with the shift drum (as well as a couple of the moons around Jupiter) then neutral becomes a game of clutch fanning and stalled engines. The fix: Just take it out. No, not permanently! It is no big deal. Remove the two bolts there and pull. It has a gasket under it, but since they all weep there, why worry about that? Look in the hole at the shift drum with the transmission in neutral. See the bump? Now turn the contact back to the correct orientation. The bend at the end should turn away from the drum. Have all the wires on it, if possible, and put it back in the transmission. Give it a try. Better? No!?! Do it again. Don't be disheartened if it takes a couplathree tries to find the best spot. You can actually turn the contact (that's what caused this in the first place) without removing the assembly BUT sometimes the problem is the angle of the contact relative to the shift drum. Too close and it's on all the time. Too far away and no light ever. Try it, look at it, learn it. I'm thinking of adding some more bumps to my shift drum. Each gear on my Eldo has at least 2 neutrals. ;-) Hunter I'll be glad to help further if you need it. Seriously. |