Subject: loopframe spark
Author: David Otis
Date: Aug 11, 2000, 6:42 AM
Post ID: 1701848600
The loopframe ignition is very simple.
the components are
distributor
points
condenser
coil
wires
ignition switch
the coil gets 12Volts from the ignition switch, one of the first hings you want
to verify, if it's ok, your ignition switch is doing it's job. Of course you
could have an intermitent problem here, that can be checked by clipping a wire
from your battery positive terminal to the coil primary terminal, the one
opposite the wire that goes to the distributor. (commonly known as "Hot Wiring")
the next quick check would be to see if your coil primary windings have
continuity, (put a ohm meter across the + and - terminals and you should have
continuity, [a short, or zero ohms]) This does not verify that the coil is
good, but it is a good start.
next pop the distributor cap and look at your points, visually verify that
they are opening and closing (just tap the starter button) then check the gap,
clean the contacts, a piece of sandpaper works great or a fine file. set the gap
correctly.
BTW if your engine is running, symptoms of a points gap that is too narrow, are
backfiring through the exhaust and loss of power.
The condenser stores up an electrical charge while the points are closed and
discharges it when they are open to produce the spark in the secondary coil
windings. If your condenser is toast, you will not fire.
If you are sure your points are clean and set, you have 12 volts to the
coil, and your coil primary windings are ok, susspect the coil or condenser
the condenser of course is easiest and cheapest, swap it you should always
carry a spare with you anyway.
I always carry a little ignition kit in my tool box, it consists of a
screwdriver, feeler gauge, a set of points, a condenser, a spare points
screw, a jumper wire with aligator clips (ever drop one alongside the road in
the grass?) and a pair of spark plugs.
What has got me in the past:
I have had total loss of spark before several times and these were the causes:
dirty points,
ignition switches failure
coil quit
the worst was on a freshly rebuilt engine that ran like a top, I would start
out riding and after a few miles it would just plain quit, NO Spark at all, I
went through the checks and tests several times, swapped everything many
times coil, points, condenser. It was my stupid spark plugs! I was running
Champions, (yes I know better now) they would work fine at first but when they
were warmed up they just quit sparking, swapped plugs and no problem after.
--
David J. Otis
VONE Corporation
20250 Century Blvd.
Germantown, MD 20850
301-515-5200 X 5621