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Here is the series of photos I took during the disassembly of the transmission on my I-Convert project bike. Assembly is pretty much the reverse. It should go without saying that all the parts were fastidiously cleaned and new O-rings and seals were fitted throughout. From a 10,000 foot view perspective, here is the order of events.
Separate the converter cover from the two speed gear box.
Remove the clutch input hub assembly from the converter cover.
Disassemble the clutch input hub assembly.
Remove the clutch assembly from the two speed gear box.
Disassemble the two speed gear box.
Converter cover disassembly
The transmission is really two separate units that are bolted together and interface with one another through dry clutch plates. The converter cover is the front unit, and it is bolted to the rear gear box unit. I began disassembly by removing the converter cover from the 2 speed gear box.
Start by removing the bronze bushing from the shaft so it won't fall out later.
In order to remove the clutch input hub assembly from the convert cover, you need to remove 5 bolts. Rotate the clutch input hub until the bolts are visible through the access holes.
Here is the seal (MG# 90404563) and several of the passages that must be aligned with the corresponding passages in the clutch input hub assembly during reassembly.
A closer view of the fittings for the oil lines. Notice the bottom one is a smaller diameter than the top one. I removed both of these fittings. That about covers the removal and disassembly of the converter cover.
Note the holes that must align with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly. You can see that I've already started to separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts.
Pull the bearing (MG# 92201220) from the shaft. If I remember correctly, I needed to use a press (or puller) to pull up on the bottom half (with the 5 bolt holes). This is necessary because the bearing sits inside of it and you can't get a grip on the bottom of the bearing. Just be careful not to bend the bottom half when you use your press (or puller).
Remove the seal (MG# 90402535), note the direction that it must be installed. I'm certain I removed the seal after I'd removed the plate. I just took the picture here to be clear about assembly order, etc.
The clutch basket needs to be removed before we can disassemble the gear box.
With the converter cover removed and the clutch input hub disassembled, I turned my attention to the 2 speed gearbox. Here is the stack of clutch plates installed.
I also removed the adjustment nut and the lever so I could clean and lubricate the threads. Also, I wanted to remove the rubber boot from the lever so it would be easier to tighten the adjustment nut.
I put the lever back on with the adjustment nut. I then tightened the adjustment nut to compress the clutch springs and take the pressure off of the clutch plates. Go slow here. You may need to completely remove the adjustment nut, then clean and lubricate the threads so that you don't destroy the threads in the process.
Here is the stack of clutch and intermediate plates. I kept them in the original order throughout cleaning and reassembly. It shouldn't matter, but when reusing used parts I like to error on the side of same-ness.
The input shaft and the O-ring (MG# 90706188) that seals the input shaft and the inner race of the bearing. Note that the O-ring (MG# 90706188) is fit outside of the gearbox, in between the clutch basket and the bearing.
This is the puller arrangement I devised to get the rear bearing and the spacer that the seal runs on off of the output shaft. I chose to pull them off as a unit because (a) the spacer that the seal runs on was stuck in place and (b) I did not want to risk damaging the sealing surface of the spacer that the seal runs on. The clamp was very useful to keep the fingers of the puller lodged under the bearing.
Remove the shift sleeve. Note which side face rearward and which side faced frontward. The shift sleeve can be reversed to double the life of the engagement dogs.
Note how one side of the engagement dogs is rounded. This is what happens when convert transmissions are shifted at speed. They should always be shifted when the machine is not in motion.
The output shaft was pretty well stuck in the front bearing and there is no good way to pry it out. So, I welded up a small adapter for my slide hammer so that I could pull the shaft out. The end of the shaft is already threaded for 8 mm × 1.25 mm threads, so all I needed to do was weld a bolt onto the end of an adapter. This worked a treat!
Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle sent me this photo of the adapter he made for his puller. In Charlie's own words: I didn't have any steel hex (or round) on hand so just used 3⁄4 inch aluminum hex and it worked just fine. One end is drilled and tapped 9⁄16 inch-12, the other 8 mm - 1.25 mm. The 9⁄16 inch end I screwed onto the OTC blind bearing puller shaft on the handle end (the handle isn't pinned into place, the other end is) and I cut the head off an 8 mm bolt for the output shaft end. Worked perfectly.
Use a seal puller to remove the seal from the case. Be careful not to gouge the case or else you'll have trouble getting the next seal installed and you may have trouble with it sealing properly.
Removing the bolt from the case. I think the purpose of this bolt was to prevent the shift shaft from rotating too far. I can't recall for sure now, though.
Use a small driver to drive out the seal from the rear cover. The bearing will come with it. Take care so as to not destroy the bearing (I do not use a blind hole bearing puller on these bearings unless I have to). Use the largest size driver you can fit.
