This booklet is intended to provide owners
with the necessary information on operating
and maintaining their machines for maximum
efficiency.

The manual should be read very carefully
as most troubles and failures arising from
neglect or poor maintenance will be avoided
if all the instructions herein contained are
strictly followed.

Don't forget that all major overhaul Jobs and
repairs are best carried out by officially
appointed Moto Guzzi dealers who have the
necessary facilities to quickly end competently
repair your Moto Guzzi.

Running In
Controls and accessories      7
Identification date    10
Tool kit     11
Main features - Engine
Transmission
Frame
Instruments and controls
Ignition key
Starting button
Ignition switch keys
Steering lock
Steering lock key
Dimmer switch and horn button
Clutch lever
Twist grip throttle control
Carburetor starter lever
Gearshift lever
Front brake lever
Rear brake pedal
Riding Instructions
Caution
Lubrication and general maintenance chart
Servicing instructions
Lubrication of engine
Oil pressure relief valve
Oil pressure gauge
Lubrication of transmission
Lubrication of rear wheel drive
Lubrlcation of front fork and hydraulic dampers
Lubrication of bevels in the steering
Lubrication of wheel bearings
Lubrication of control cables
Lubrication of rear fork bearings
Oil breather unit
Carburation
Air filter
Cleaning operations
Filters and fuel lines
Fuel tank
Fuel taps
Mufflers
Cylinder heads, piston and valves
Valve gearing
Tappet clearance
Checking valve timing
Ignition
Distributor
Spark plugs
Checking of ignition timing
Checking of ignition advance by stroboscope lamp
Adjustments
Generator belt
Clutch lever
Steering
Steering lock
Front brake lever
Rear brake pedal
Rear suspension units
Checking the gear operating mechanism
Removal of wheels
Front wheel
Rear wheel
Electrical equipment
Wiring diagram

During the first 1600 kms. 11,000 miles). a
new or overhauled machine ought to be used
with some intelligence as the efficiency, per
formance, end life of the engine are largely
dependent on how it is run in.
The engine should never be allowed to reach
high number of revolutions before it has
had a chance to warm up sufficiently. Never
ride the machine at the highest permissible,
speeds for each gear before the machine has
been well broken in.
Should the engine speed drop off considerably on an uphill grade, a lower gear should
be immediately engaged. In case of overheating, it is best to stop and allow the engine
to cool down.
Under no circumstances whatever should the
following speeds be exceeded in the running
in period.

Distance: up to 800 kms. (500 miles):
In low gear        45 kms. (28 miles)
In second gear       65 kms. (53 miles)
In third gear       85 kms. (53 miles)
In fourth gear    100 kms. (62 miles)
In top gear    115 kms. (72  miles)

from 800 to 1400 kms. (500 to 1000 miles):
In low gear       55 kms. (34.5 miles)
In second gear      80 kms. (50 miles)
In third gear    105 kms. (165 miles)
In fourth gear    120 kms. (175 miles)
In top gear    140 kms. (87.5     miles)

From 1600 to 3000 kms. (1000 to 1800 miles)
the speed can be gradually increased up to
the maximum permissible limits.

After the first 500 kms. (300 miles)
Change the engine oil.
Tighten all nuts and bolts
Check valve clearance
Check distributor points.
Every 500 kms. (300 miles)
Check oil level. Correct level is in between
the minimum and maximum mark on the
filler cap dipstick.

Cycle    : 4 strokes
Number of cylinders    : 2
Cylinder disposition    : - V - 90˚
Bore    : 83 mm (3.26")
Stroke    : 78 mm (3.07")
Displacement    : 844.05 cc (51.5 cu.in.)

Fig. 5

Compression ratio    : 9.2 to 1
Revs at maximum engine speed    : 6500 r.p.m.
Output at maximum engine speed    : 64 HP SAE
Crankcase    : In light alloy
Cylinders    : in light alloy with hard chromed barrels
Cylinder heads    : In light alloy, hemispherical. with special cast iron inserted seats
Crankshaft    : steel construction
Crankshaft supports    : In anti-friction material pressed In 2 suitable housing (as used in all F1 race cars)
Connecting rods    : steel construction with AL-TIN alloy thin wall bearings
Piston    : in light alloy
Valve gear    : O.H.V., push rod operated via the camshaft in the crankcase and gear driven by the crackshaft.
Inlet:
- opens 24˚ before TDC
- closes 58˚ after BDC
Exhaust:
- opens 58˚ after BDC
- closes 22˚ after TDC
Rocker clearance for valve timing:
    : 0.5 mm. (.0196")
Normal rocker clearance (cold engine):
inlet     : 0.15 mm. (.0059")
exhaust    : 0.25 mm. (.0098")

Carburation

2 Dell'Orto carburetors type VHB 29 CD
(right) and VHB 29 GS (left), both gravity fed from the tank. Standard carburetor setting

Choke    : 29 mm.
Throttle slide    : 60
Atomizer    : 265
Main jet    :145
Pilot jet    : 45

Starter atomizer: 80
With needle SV5 second notch from top:
idling screw option 1 1/2 to 2 turns for the
left carburetor and 2 - 21/2 turns for the
right carburetor.
Air intake provided with dry filter.

Lubrication

Pressure, by gear pump driven by the crank shaft.
Oil strainer in crankcase.
Normal lubrication pressure 3.8 - 4.2 kgs/sq.
cm. (54 to 60 lbs sq.in.) controlled by relief valve.
Electrically controlled oil pressure gauge,

Cooling
By air. Cylinder and cylinder head deeply finned.

Ignition
By battery with automatic advance distributor.
Initial advance    : 5˚.
Automatic advance    : 28˚.
lgnition timing    : 33˚ full advance.
Contact breaker gap    : 0.42-0.48 mm. (.016" - .018").

Spark plug
 n. 225 in Bosch-Marelli scale or
equivalent.
Plugs point gap    : 0.6 mm. (023").
Ignition coil.

Starting

Electric starter with electromagnetic ratchet control.
Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Operated by starter button.

Exhaust system
Dual exhaust pipes and mufflers.

Clutch    : Twin driven plate &, dry type, flywheel
driven. Controlled by lever on the left handlebar.
Gear box    : Five speeds, frontal engagement. Helical
constant mesh gears. Cush drive Incorporated.
Separate case bolted on crankcase,  operated by rocker
pedal from the R/H side of the machine.
Engine gear-box ratios    : 1 to 2.235 (17-21)
Internal gear ratios:
- low gear    1 to 2    (14-28)
- second gear    1 to 1.333 118-25)
- third gear    1 to 1.047 (21-22)
- fourth gear    1 to 0.869 (23-26)
- high gear    1 to 0.750 (24-19)

Secondary drive
By constant speed double joint Cardan shaft.
Layshaft - bevel gear ratio: I    to 4.625 (18-37)
Overall gear ratios:
- low gear    .I to 11.424
- second gear    .I to 7.929
- third gear    . I to 5,980
- fourth gear    I to 4.963
- high gear    . I to 4.284

Duplex cradle, tubular structure.

Suspension
Telescopic    : front fork incorporating hydraulic dampers.
Rear swinging fork with externally adjustable springs.
wheel.    WM 3/2.15 x 19".

Tires
Front tire:
solo/with passenger    : 1.5 kgs/sq.cm. = 21 p.s.i.
Rear tire:
solo    : 1.8 kgs/sq.cm. = 25 p.s.i
with passenger    : 2.0 kgs/sq.cm. = 28 p.s.i

N.B. - The above recommendations is for normal riding (cruising speed). If using the machine at constant high speed or on motor ways, the above pressures should be increased by 0.2 kgs/sq.cm. (2.8 p.s.i.).

Brakes
Twin leading shoes front brake operated by hand lever on the right handlebar.
Large rear brake operated on left hand side of machine.

Overall dimensions and weight
Wheelbase    1.470 mts. (about 57.8")
Length    2.245 mts. (about 88.3")
Width    .795 mts. (about 32.3")
Height (dry) 1 00 mts. about 32 3"
Minimum ground clearance    0.150 mts. (about 5.9")
curb weight    249 kgs. (about 548 lbs.)

Performance
Maximum permissible speeds in each gear.
solo riding:
- bottom gear 67.936 kms/h (42.22 m.p.h.) climbability: 86.5%
- second gear 98.395 kms/h (61.15 m.p.h.) climbability: 46.6%
- third gear 131.739 kms/h (81.87 m.p.h.) climbability: 28.3%
- fourth gear 164.235 kms/h (102.07 m.p.h.) climbability: 17.2%
- fifth gear 193 kms/h (119.95 m.p.h.) climbability: 8.9%

Passing ability
Passing of 55 feet long truck traveling at 20 m.p.h.
- Time    : 6.5 seconds
Distance traveled    : 334 feet
Passing of 55 feet long truck traveling at 50 m.p.h.
- Time    : 8.7 seconds
Distance traveled    : 900 feet

The above includes a safety distance of 40 and 100 feet respectively between the passing and pace vehicle at the beginning and end of the maneuver.

Braking ability
Stopping distance from 60 m.p.h.
(Solo, using both brakes) : 182 feet
Stopping distance with passenger from 60 m.p.h. (using both brakes) : 198 feet

Fuel and oil capacities
Fuel tank    22.5 liters (5.84 US Gls.) Petrol 98 NO R.M.
reserve    4 liters (1 US gls.)
Sump    3 liters (3 1/4 quarts) Shell Super 100 multigrade or equivalent
Transmission    0.750 liters (1 3/4 pints) Shell Spirax H.D. 90
Rear drive box     0.300 liters (5/8 pints) Shell Spirax H.D. 90
(bevel set lubrication)
Front fork dampers
(each leg) 0.160 liters (5.4 oz. US) Shell Tellus 33

Instrument panel
1. Speedometer.
2. Red light indicating high beam.
3. Red warning light indicating insufficient flow of current from generator for battery charge. Should go out when the engine has reached a certain number of revolutions.
4. Orange. This is the neutral indicator light.
Is not lighted when any gear is engaged.
5. Red warning light. Oil pressure gauge.
Will go out when oil pressure for normal engine operation is sufficient.
6. Revolution counter.

Fig. 6

This key has 3 positions:

- 0 - Machine at standstill,m key removable.
        all electrics switched off.

- 1 - Machine standing, key removable, parking
        lights on.

- 2 - Running position or machine ready to
        set out. All controls on. For daylight
        driving no other position necessary.

Fig. 7

For night driving levers A and 8 on
the left handlebar must be switched on
(Fig. 9).

On right handlebar with the ignition key in position 2 the machine is ready to be started.

Every machine is supplied with an ignition key and a duplicate. Key letter should be recorded and reported to your dealer in case of loss.

It is located on the left hand side of the steering column and it is key operated.

Every machine is supplied with a key and a duplicate. Key letter should be recorded and reported to your dealer In case of loss.

is located on the left handlebar.
a) position - 0 - lights off;
    position - 1 - parking light (town drivIng Ilght);
    position - 2 - low beam;

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

b) position - 3 - low beam; dimmer switch
    position - 4 - low beam; dimmer switch
c) horn button

Clutch lever [return to index]

Is on left handle bar and should used for
starting and gearshifting only.

Twist grip throttle control [return to index]

It is located on the right handlebar. Throttle
is opened by turning toward the rider.

Carburetor starter lever (Fig. 16) [return to index]

Is on the right hand side of the handlebar.
It is opened by pulling toward the rider and
viceversa.

Gearshift lever [return to index]

On right hand side of machine or on left
if required.

Front brake lever [return to index]

On right hand side of machine

Rear brake pedal [return to index]

On left hand side of machine or on right
if required.

RIDING INSTRUCTIONS [return to index]

Engine starting
Before starting the engine ensure that:

- there is sufficient fuel in the tank
- the oil is at correct level
- the ignition key is on the - 2 - position
- the red warning lights (oil pressure and
dynamo charge) and the orange neutral
indicator are lit.
- the easy start lever (when starting from
cold) is in the open position [See - A in fig. 16).
When the above has been chocked, twist the
gas grip 1/4 turn and push the start button
on the R/H side of the handlobar. After the
engine has started and before returning the
easy start lover to its normal riding position
(- C - in fig. 16). let the engine idle for a
short while in the hot and a few minutes
in the cold seasons to allow the oil to reach
all the lubricating points and the cylinders
to get warm.

N.B. - Do not forget that the easy starting lever must
be returned to the normal riding position. If left open
when riding there will be irregular carburation and
increased fuel consumption. In some cases there may
also be the possibility of seizures due to too much
petrol going into the cylinders.

Do not forget that starting the engine in gear
(orange indicator light off) can be very dangerous
unless the clutch is kept fully disengaged as with the firing of the engine themachine itself may start off,

Even at low temperatures the machine should
always start easily when everything is in
good order and there is sufficient thrust
from the starter motor.

If the engine does not start easily. do not
persist in many attempts but check carburation, ignition. battery charge and if the oil in
the sump is of correct gradation.

When starting a hot engine there is no need
to open the starter lever as this would richen
the mixture end make starting difficult. If
starting a hot engine gives some difficulty
it is well to open the throttle completely
before pushing In the starter button.

Pull the clutch lever completely. engage low
gear, release the clutch slowly. and at the
same time turn the gas on.
As soon as the engine has picked up some
speed, close the gas, pull the clutch and by
downward toe pressure engage second gear.
Then release the clutch rapidly (but not with
a jerk) and turn on the gas once more. Third
and fourth and high gear ere likewise engaged by toe pressure.

In normal riding conditions, all the tell-tale
lights should be off, except naturally the
the red light when riding with the high beam
on. If any one of them lights up. this means
there Is some fault in the system or oil pres
sure Is insufficient.
The maximum speeds in each gear should never be exceeded, not even on steep downhill
grades. Do not forget that by toe pressure you
pass to a higher gear and by heel pressure
to a lower gear (Fig. 10). Before any gear
is engaged, make sure the clutch is completely disengaged. It is necessary to fully close
the gas when you change up but it can only
be closed partially when changing down, To
obtain fast and effortless gear shifts, always,
depress the pedal firmly but gently without
stamping or jabbing vigorously on it.

The free position (neutral) is in between first
and second gear. To locate 'this position it is,
necessary to shift to low gear and then by

Fig. 11

slight (toe) pressure (half stroke) to feel for
neutral position.

With the machine standing still and the engine running, the transmission should always
be kept in neutral. Do not keep the clutch
lever depressed, even during the briefest
stops. Always change to a higher gear rather than
let the engine race.

As soon as the machine stops, close the
throttle, shift to neutral, turn the key to the
- 0 - position and take it off (Fig. 7).

Fig. 10

  1) Check electrolyte level in battery (every 15 days
      in summer) See -Battery-.

  2) Check tire pressure with a gauge
  3) Replace the crankcase oil. See -Engine lubrication-
  4) Tighten all nuts and bolts.
  5) Check end adjust tappet play, if necessary.
      See -Tappet Adjustment-
  6) Check and if necessary top up oil level in crankcase. Correct       oil level is in between the minimum and maximum marks on       the dipstick. (See -Engine lubrication-)

  7) Lubricate cable ends. See -Lubrication of clutch.
       front brake and air cables

  8) Replace oil in crankcase. See -Engine lubrication-
10) Check and clean spark plugs. See -Spark plugs-
11) Check Oil level in gear box and if necessary
      top up. See -Lubrication of gear box.
12) Check oil level in transmission box for lubricating bevel gear        if necessary, top up.

13) Clean petrol taps and filters, carburetor filters and fuel line oil       carburetors. See -Carburation-
14) Strip carburetor and check all parts. Use an air jet to clean           out all ducts. See -Carburation-
15) Change gear box oil. See -Lubrication of transmission-
16) Change rear drive box oil. See -Lubrication of rear drive box-
17) Check cleanliness and tightness on all battery connections-         and smear them with Vaseline. See -battery-
18) Clean commutator of generator using a clean
      cloth slightly moistened in petrol. See -Generator-

19) Check condition of wheel bearings and if still
       efficient pack them with grease
       See -Lubrication of wheel bearings-
20) Check condition of steering bearings and if still
       good pack with grease.
21) Replace oil in inner tubes.
      See -Lubrication of fork-
22) clean starter motor commutator using a clean
       rag slightly moistened with petrol.

Using the oil filler dipstick (A), check the sump
level every 500 kms. (300 miles).

Correct oil level is in between the minimum
and maximum marks. Make this check on
a warm engine with the filler cap screwed
on one turn.

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) change the
engine oil (on a new or overhauled machine
this change should be made after the first

Fig. 12

500 kms. (300 miles). The oil should be replaced when the engine is warm by unscrewing filler cap (A) and drain plug (B).
Allow all the old oil to drain, re-fit plug B and introduce fresh oil. Quantity required: about 3 liters (3 3/4 quarts).
Oil recommendation: SHELL Super 100 Mulitgrade or an
equivalent.

Under no circumstance should this valve
be tampered with as it has already been
calibrated at the factor for a pressure operation of 3.8 - 4.2 kgs./sq.cm. (54 - 60 lbs.
sq.in.).

The indicator light goes out when the pressure is sufficient to open the contact of the
pressure operated solenoid.

Fig. 13

If this light stays lit, then the oil pressure is incorrect. In such cases, stop the engine and inspect all passages and oil lines to determine the cause and correct it before restarting.

The oil In this box must be checked every
3000 kms. (1800 miles). The level is correct
when the oil is flush with plug hole (A).
Change the oil every 10.000 kms, (6000
miles). This operation should be carried out
a short time after a ride when the oil is
warm and easily drained.
To change the oil proceed as follows: unscrew filler cap B, level plug A and drain
plug C under the box. When the old oil has
drained and plug C re-fitted, introduce fresh
oil through B until it starts to leak out from
level hole A. when both plugs can be put
back.
Oil quantity required: about 0.750 liter (1 3/4
pints).
Oil recommendation: Shell Spirax 90 H.D. or
an equivalent.

The oil level of this box should be checked
every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) The oil should just
skim hole A. Change the oil every 10.000 kms.
(6000 miles) and do this operation on a hot
engine. unscrew filler plug B. level plug A,
and bottom drain cover.
When the old oil has drained, refit the cover
and introduce new oil until it starts seeping
through hole A. finally screwing oil plug A.
Quantity required: about 0.230 liters (1/2
pint).
Oil recommendation: Shell Spiral 90 H.D.

Fig. 14

Every 20.000 kms. (12,000 miles) or earlier,
if necessary, change theoil in thr ofrk tubes.
Proceed as follows: remove the drain plugs
and washer (A) and plubs (B). When the
oil has drained, and drain plug A screwed on
introduce fresh oil through B.
Quantity of oil required for each fork tube:
about 0.160 liters (5.4 oz.). Oil recommend-
dation: Shell Tellus 33 or equivalent.

Every 20.000 kms. (12,000 miles) check
condition fo these bearings and pack them
with SHell Alvania grease 2 or an equiva-
lent.

Every 20.000 kms. (12.000 miles) check the
condition of these bearings and peck with
Shell Alvania Grease 2 or an equivalent.

Every 1000 kms. (600 miles) check the cable
 ends end lubricate with Shell Alvania grease
F 2 or an equivalent. Actuate the levers several tries to allow some of the grease to
enter into the casings.

At the time of a general overhaul it is well
to inspect these bearings to ensure that they
are still efficient and, if necessary, pack then
with grease. Recommended lubricant: Shell
Alvania grease 2 or an equivalent.

Every 20.000 kms. (12,000 miles) check the
condition of these bearings and pack with
Shell Alvania Grease 2 or an equivalent.

Every 1000 kms. (600 miles) clean the cable
ends and lubricate with Shell Alvania grease
F2 or an equivalent. Actuate the levers several times to allow some of the grease to
enter the casings.

At the time of a general overhaul it is well
to inspect these bearings to ensure that they
are still efficient and , if necessary, pack them
with grease. Recommended lubricant: Shell
Alvania grease 2 or an equivalent.

If the motorcycle is left unused for any considerable length of time there is the possibility that foreign matter eventually present in
the oil may deposit on the diaphragm inside
the breather causing this to get stuck with
consequent oil leakages.

Under the circumstances. we recommend to
inspect this unit before using the machine
again and this can be done by removing the
unit from the machine with the fuel tank assembled.

Proceed as follows:

- Unscrew the breather unit securing bolt.

- Back out the breather from the left.

- Check that the pressure relief valve inside
the breather can move freely. This can
easily be done by means of a suitable rod
introduced in the central tube of the
breather. if the valve is stuck, free it with

Fig. 15

the rod and wash the tube out first with
pure petrol and then with an oil-petrol
mixture. Finally dry off with an air jet to
prevent the valve from oxidizing and getting
stuck again to the tube end from the engine.
The unit can now be re-assembled on the
machine

This model is fitted with 2 dual control
Dell'Orto carburetors type VHB 29 CD on
the right and VHB 29 CS on the left.
Both controls are on the right handlebar:
one is the easy starting lever for cold starts,
the other is the throttle twist grip control.
When starting a cold engine, the easy start
lever is turned on the open position - A (See fig. 16).
After the engine has warmed up - a few
seconds in the summer and a few minutes
in the winter -, this lever must be returned to
the normal riding position - C - in fig. 16.

Fig. 16

Choke    :29 mm.
Throttle slide    :60
Atomizer    :265
Main jet    :145
Idling jet    :45
Easy start atomizer    :80
Needle jet    SV 5 (2nd notch from
top)

Idling screw open 1 1/2 to 2 turns for the
left carburetor and 2 to 2 1/2 turns for the
right carburetor.

The carburation is adjusted on a hot engine
after the inlet and exhaust tappets have been
set at the correct distance.

Proceed as follows:

1) Ensure that the easy starting lever in
    its fully closed position has about 4 mm,
    (.16") end play as If the cable is too
    stretched, engine vibration may cause the
    valves on the carburetors to open with
    a consequent irregular carburation.
2) With the filter box and the rubber inlet
    manifold removed. check that both gas
    valves open at the same time. This is
    done by turning the throttle grip and at
    the same time feeling with your fingers
    on the carburetor slides. If these open
    simultaneously by the same amount
    Should one valve open before tile other,
    correct by setting screw A (See fig. 17)
    in the position where by turning the
    throttle both valves open simultaneously .
3) Adjust the idling speed by acting on screw
    C in fig 17. Screwing this in reduces the
    fuel flow and vice versa increases it. To
    adjust, tighten the screw and then undo
    it 1 1/2 - 2 turns for the left cylinder carburetor and 2 - 2 1/2        turns for the right
   cylinder carburetor. With the engine revolving at about

Fig. 17

    1000-1200 r.p.m., disconnect
    the plug lead of any one of the cylinders
    and lightly turn screw C in fig. 17 of the
    opposite carburetor on to the position
    which will give the best idling speed,
    i.e. until the engine revs increase slightly.

The same operation should be repeated
on the carburetor of the opposite cylinder.
This will give a correct idling speed
and prevent engine popping.

Engine speed: Due to the constructive
characteristics of this engine. the idling
speed adjustment should never be made
with the engine running at less then
800-900 r.p.m.

A good idling speed is obtained as follows:

4) Disconnect the R/H cylinder plug lead. start the engine, and         ensure that it stop after firing 4 or 5 strokes. If it dies out earlier     or later, It is necessary to adjust idling screw B in fig. 17 to the     point where the engine will stop after firing 4 or 5 times.

Repeat the same operation on the R/H cylinder with the L/H cylinder plug lead disconnected,

If. the R/H cylinder is normal, the engine should stop after firing 4 or 5 times. If not, screw 8 in fig. 17 should be similarly adjusted to the position where it does so. The L/H cylinder plug lead is then reconnected.

Remove:
- Mixture chamber cover (1) complete with
   cable adjusting nut and spring (2). after
   loosening screws (3).
- Throttle slide (4) with taper needle (5).
- Throttle slide stop screw and spring (6).
- Plug and washer (7).
- Bowl (8).
- Pilot jet (9).
- Accelerator pump (10) with main jet (11) and atomizer (12).
- Easy start atomizer (13).
- Float (14) with securing pin (15).
- Needle (16).
- Pilot air screw (17) with spring.
- adapter screw (18) with washer.
- Adapter (19).
- Adapter filter (20).
- Air control plug (21) with screw and nut.
- Plug securing screw (22).
- Spring (23) with air control plug (24).

After the carburetor has been stripped and
all parts cleaned with an air jet, it is a good
practice to inspect and clean the fuel filters
and line from the tank.

Fig. 18

The dry type filter is located in a suitable
housing secured to the frame. Air to the carburetors is taken directly through a rubber
sleeve from the filter box. When the filter is
too dirty, replace it with original equipment.

Fig. 19

Every 10.000 kms. or so (6000) miles or any
time fuel flow to the carburetors is not regular, it is necessary to check if there are
no leakages at the fuel line connections
(See C fig. 20) of if the filter on the taps
(A) and the carburetors (B) are clean.
If the plastic lines have got too hard at
their connecting ends, replace them with
original equipment.

Fig. 20

When overhauling the carburetors it is well
to clean the fuel tank as well. The tank is
best cleaned when detached from the vehicle. Pour some petrol in it and shake vigorously. Then drain it from the filler cap
hole to carry away any sludge or scaling
which may have deposited at the bottom of
the tank.

Are located under the fuel tank and are
open when turned downwards (See A) and
closed when in the horizontal position B.
It is good practice to keep one tap only
open and to use the other as a reserve tap
in an emergency.
This tap should occasionally be checked to
ensure it is not obstructed.

Internal cleaning is carried out by filling them
with a solution of boiling water and caustic
soda (20%) and leaving them to stay for
about 1 hour. The mufflers are then emptied
and rinsed out with boiling water while shaking vigorously.

Every 10.000 (6000 miles) the cylinder
head should be removed decarbonizing.
The combustion chamber and piston crowns

Fig. 21

are best cleaned with a blunt scraper and a
wire brush and washed off with petrol.
Check that the valve seats are properly
sealed by pouring some petrol through the
inlet and exhaust ducts and observing if any
seeps through between seats and valves.
If so, the valves should be dismantled and
the seats ground in with emery paste.
At the end of this operation the head and
valves should be thoroughly cleaned with
petrol and compressed air to remove all
traces of the abrasive.
When re-assembling the heads, the nuts and
hold down studs should be tightened in a
crossed sequence (See 1-2-3-4-5-6 in fig. 22)
using a torque wrench set at 27 ft. lbs.

Fig. 22

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) or any time
valve operation is too noisy. check tappet
clearance.

This adjustment is made on a cold engine
with the piston at TDC and both valves closed
while the piston is on its compression stroke.

Using the wrench supplied in the tool kit,
undo nut A and screw in or out screw B.

Correct clearance is:
- Inlet valve    0.15 mm. (.0059")
- Exhaust valve    0.25 mm. (.0098")

Use a feeler gauge (C) to check this clearance.  When this is excessive. there will be
noisy valve operation.

If it is less. the valves may not close fully
causing compression loss, overheating of the engine, etc.

On a new engine, this adjustment must be
made after the first 500 kms. (300 miles).

The engine Is timed when the gears are set
as shown at A and 8 in fig. 24. A proper
check of valve timing is always done better
in any officially appointed Moto Guzzi dealer
shop.

Fig. 23

 

Fig. 24

Every 3000 kms (about 1800 miles) the cam
felt pad should be lubricated with a few
drops of oil and the contact points inspected
to ensure every are clean. If dirty or greasy
clean them with a petrol soaked cloth. Correct gap is 0.42 - .048 mm. (0.16" - 0.18"). If
they need adjusting, loosen screw B which
secures the fixed contact plate and move this
to the position which will give the correct
gap. However, the contact points should be
changed whenever it is necessary.

Fig. 25

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) check the
gap which should be 0.6 mm. (0.23"). Check
also the high tension leads and replace, if
necessary. The spark plugs are best cleaned
with petrol, a wire brush, and a needle for
the inner part.
In fitting the plugs. make sure they are started by hand for a few turns and to complete the operation by means of the plug
wrench in the tool kit. Do not over tighten to
prevent stripping of the thread.

Remove generator belt cover. Check that the
distributor contact points are 0.42-0.48 mm.
(.016" - 018") apart. Ensure the left cylinder
(2) is at its compression stroke i.e. with
both valves closed. Rotate the generator pulley on the crankshaft till the slot (fig. 26)
Is opposite mark A traced on the timing
cover.
In this position the points should start to
open end to ensure that they do so use a
timing light which will light up at the exact
time the points start opening.
If the points start to open before or after
the mentioned point, slacken distributor securing bolt C (fig. 25) and turn the distributor to the right or left to the position
where the points start opening at the proper
time.
The cylinder number is marked on the distributor cap as follows: n. 1 (right cylinder), n. 2 (left cylinder), -bobina- = coil
(See D in fig. 25).

For checking the ignition advance the crankshaft driven generator pulley of the V-7 engine has been provided now with 3 additional timing marks. When In coincidence with
arrow -A. already stamped on the timing
cover, these marks will serve to determine it
the Ignition is correctly timed.

The new reference marks on the pulley (See fig. 26 and diagram 27) can be defined as follows:

-B- (first on the left) is the TDC position mark for the 2nd cylinder (on the
left, as seen astride the saddle).

-C- is the 5˚ fixed advance position to the TDC.

-D- is the 25˚ automatic advance position to the TDC.

-E- Is the 33˚ maximum advanced position (fixed + automatic) to the TDC.

With the engine assembled on the machine,
this control is made as follows:

- Remove generator belt cover by unscrewing its 3 retaining bolts.

- Connect the timing device cable to the
plug of cylinder 2 (left sitting In the saddle).

- Connect the 2 stroboscope cables with
clamps to a battery, ensuring that clamp
(+) is secured to battery pole (+)
and the other to pole (-).

After these connections to the plug and battery have been made, start the engine and
direct the stroboscope light on to arrow -A-
on the timing cover.

Check that this arrow coincides with the
generator pulley marks -C-D-E- at the following engine speeds:
- Mark -C- at 1200± 100 r.p.m.
- Mark -D- at 2200± 100 r.p.m.
- Mark -E- at 3600± 100 r.p.m.

Fig. 26

If this check shows that arrow -A. Is in
coincidence with pulley marks C-D-E at
the above engine speeds. then the fixed and
automatic advance are quite normal.

Fig. 27

After long service the belt may slacken and
in such case it should be tensioned. Normal
belt slack A is 1 cm. per 10 kgs. (.039"/21

lbs ). The belt is tightened as follow:
- unscrew bolts B which secure the outer
half-pulley to the hub.
- remove the external half pulley.
- remove one or more spacing collars to
reduce the width of the race.
- If it is necessary to remove more than
one spacer, they should be placed at the
front and rear of the pulley.
Finally, re-fit the outer half-pulley, tightening
its 3 securing bolts (B).

This lever should be adjusted when the free
play at the handlebar is more or less than
4 mm. (1/8"). Slacken thumb screw B and
screw in or out adjuster A to obtain the
correct distance. Don't forget to re-lock thumb
screw B.
If the distance is less, the clutch may slip
causing the plates to wear out. if it is more,
there may be incomplete disengagement of
the clutch and consequent noisy gear shifting.
This adjustment can also be carried out by
slackening nut D and acting on adjuster C
bolted on the battery bracket.

Looseness of the steering is remedied as
follows:
Slacken locknut A and using a suitable
wrench, adjust lockring B to the position
which will take up excessive play and then
re-lock nut A by keeping a hold on lockring A.

Fig. 28

N.B. - Do not forget that loose steering may
cause wear of the taper bearings.

Fig. 29

It is located on the L/H side of the steering
column (See A) and it is key operated.

To lock: turn the handlebar completely to
the right and insert the key turning it forward
(toward the front wheel). Push it in, release
it and pull it out.

To open: Insert key in the lock, turn it
forward, and release it.

Fig. 30

Play at the handlebar should be checked
periodically. The lever is adjusted when there
is about 20-25 mm. (3/4 to 1") play at the
handlebar before the linings contact the
drums.
Excessive play is corrected by acting on
thumb screw B and adjuster A or on adjuster
C and nut D on the hub cover.

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Adjustment of this lever is made by means
of the thumb screw fitted on the threaded
portion of the brake rod.
Excessive play is corrected by screwing in
thumb screw A on the rod until there is a
play of about 20-25 mm. (3/4 - 1") at
pedal B before the linings contact the drums.

The rear suspension unit has a 3-position
adjustment: I for normal load. II medium
load, III heavy load.
Change over to any required position is made
by turning knob B using the special wrench.

Fig. 33

(A) In the tool kit. This knob is turned
anti clockwise until •II• or •III• coincides
with reference C.
In case of faulty damper operation it is recommended to have them checked by your
dealer or in a shop officially appointed by
the makers.

In case of noise gear shift, it is well to check
and adjust the operating quadrant which
drives the selector drum.
This is done by loosening lock nut B and

Fig. 34

screwing in or out the eccentric A in fig. 35
and find the position where it is felt that by
changing up and down all gears engage
smoothly and the free position is easily
selected.
Locknut B is then re-tightened keeping a fast
hold on screw A.

Fig. 35

To remove the front wheel disconnect the
front brake cable from the operating lever
on the hub cover and unscrew cable adjuster B.

Fig. 36

Undo nut -C- which secures the wheel
spindle to the right fork member and bolt B
which secures the left hand member, taking
out the wheel spindle. Now push the wheel
down just sufficiently to free the brake
block from its anchoring lug on the left fork
member and back it out.

N.B. - When re-assembling don't forget to insert the brake block in its anchorage on the left fork member.

Fig. 37

Unscrew nut A which secures the wheel spindle to the rear drive box and the nut which
secures the stay to the brake block. Undo the
rear brake adjusting thumb screw (B) and
bolt C which locks the spindle to the rear
fork and withdraw the spindle.
Pushing the wheel to the left will free the
wheel from the sleeve in the drive box thus
allowing the wheel to be removed by leaning
the machine sideways.

N.B. - When re-assembling don't forget to insert the
anchoring brace to the brake block.

Battery
The 12 V battery is centrally mounted and
has a capacity of 32 Ah. It is charged directly
by the generator.

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) check the
electrolyte level in each cell and if necessary
top up with distilled water, using a glass or
plastic funnel. The level is correct when the
acid tops the plate separator by about 6 mm.
(1/4"). Always top up with distilled water
and not with sulfuric acid.

Add distilled water to a cold battery after
it has not been in use for at least 6 hours.

Make sure that no electrolyte flows over the
top of the battery which must always be in
a perfectly dry condition. If the level in any
one cell is lower than in others, this may
be due to either cracks or other faults and
in such case the battery should be immediately replaced.

Every 6000 miles check that all battery
connections are in a perfectly clean condition and smear them with Vaseline to prevent
oxidation.

The battery is charged when the hydrometer
reading shows about 1.28 sp.g. for' normal
service and about 1.23 sp.g. for service In
tropical conditions. An almost discharged
battery shows a reading of about 1.16 sp.g.
for normal service and about 1. 1 sp.g. for
tropical conditions.

Putting the dry charged battery in service
1. Break off the seal and unscrew the plug.

2. Introduce pure sulfuric acid of 1275
    sp.g. - temperature 15˚ (31- Baume').
    This operation has to be carried out very
    carefully and particular attention should
    be paid to the specific gravity of the
    recommended liquid.
    The correct electrolyte level is 6 mm.
    over the plate separators (.23").
3. Let the battery at rest for about 2 hours
    and then top up with electrolyte to the
    recommended level.
    The battery can now be charged for
    8-15 hours at a current intensity equal to
    1/10th of its normal amperage (in 10
    hours discharge).
4. The battery is now ready to be put in
    service.

Maintenance instructions
During the period that the battery is left at
rest before use, ensure the electrolyte level
is about 6 mm. (23") over the top of the
plate separators. Ensure that this level Is
maintained at all times with the addition
of distilled water. Never add sulfuric acid.
If the battery is not used immediately, it is
best to have it charged for a short period
every month or every time before it is used.

Successive charges
Before re-charging make absolutely certain
that the battery is in a perfectly clean condition.
Connect to the charging medium and use
preferably an amperage equal to but not
exceeding 1/10th of the rated battery capacity over a period of 10 hours.
If during the charge the electrolyte temperature (measured with a thermometer immersed in the electrolyte) should get up to 50˚C
(122˚F). it will be necessary to reduce or
interrupt the charge until the temperature
has dropped to under 40˚C (104˚F).

Never add sulfuric acid but top up only
with chemically pure distilled water.

Generator
Every 10.000 kms. (6000 miles), the commutator should be cleaned with a clean cloth
slightly moistened in petrol.

Copper or carbon dust which may have deposited in between the rotor blades can be
removed by compressed air.

When cleaning the commutator check also
the condition of the brushes and if chipped
or worn, replace them ensuring that they
make good contact and are flush with the
commutator, or else this may get damaged.

N.B. - Replacement of brushes must be made with
original parts and preferable by fully qualified
electricians.

Regulator unit
The regulator is sealed to prevent it from
being tampered with. in case of failures or
incorrect operation, it should be sent for
inspection to the makers or their agents.
Replacements must be made with original
parts bearing the same number.

Starter motor
Clean its commutator every 20.000 kms or
so (12,000 miles). To clean it use a petrol
moistened cloth.
Carbon or copper dust between the rotor
blades can easily be removed by compressed
air. Check condition of the brushes and if
any are worn or chipped, replace them. To
avoid damage to the commutator, the brushes should be in perfect even contact with it. Use only original parts and have this
job done preferably by qualified electricians.

Horn
The 12 V horn does not require any maintenance. In case of irregular operation have It
seen to by competent electricians or replace
it.

Light switch and horn button
Does not require any adjustment but in case
of faulty operation, remove its cover and
check all contacts, screwing down tightly all
wires.

Headlight (US version)
Of sealed beam type.

Lamps
- Headlight: sealed beam insert 168 mm.
(6.6") 45/40 W
- Tail light: two filament. round 20/5 W
Speedometer: round 3 W
Dimmer Indicator: round 3 W
Ammeter: round 3 W
Neutral Indicator: round 3 W
Oil pressure: round 3 W

Tail lamp
Of approved type on both US and European
versions.

Fuses
9 fuses of 25 Amp. protect all the battery
fed electrics i.e. Ignition switch, speedometer,
warning lights, stop light. and horn. If a fuse
blows, trace and correct the cause, and replace
with a similar fuse.

Cables
Check these over occasionally and ensure
their perfect condition. Replace if necessary.

N.B. - if any extra accessories are added, ensure
they are connected to the terminals which can
stand the load and not going beyond the capacity
of the terminal itself and/or the H.T. leads, thus
preventing possible damage to the electric system.

Fig. 38

0 -
1 - 30/30 Int.
2 - 30/20 Int. 15/54
3 - 30/30 Int. 15/54 50

A.    Headlight
B.    Main light bulb
C.    Terminal block with fuses
D.    Distributing block
E.    Light switch and horn button
F.    Spark plug
G.    Distributor
H.    Contact breaker
I.    H.T. coil
L.    Speedometer and warning light bulbs
M.    Horn
N.    Neutral indicator switch
O.    Stop light switch
P.    Oil pressure switch
Q.    Ignition switch
R.    Number plate and tail light, Plate illumination and stop light
T.    Generator
U.    Regulator
V.    Battery
X.    Starter motor
Z.    Starter motor relay