Running in
Controls and accessories
Identification data
Tool kit
Main features - Engine
Frame
Instruments and controls
Ignition key
Starting button
Ignition switch keys
Steering lock
Steering lock keys
Dimmer switch and horn button
Clutch lever
Twist grip throttle control
Air lever
Gearshift lever
Front brake lever
Rear brake pedal
Riding instructions
Lubrication chart
Lubrication and general maintenance chart
Servicing instructions
Lubrication of engine
Oil pressure relief valve
Oil pressure gauge
Lubrication of transmission
Lubrication of rear wheel drive
Lubrication of front fork and hydraulic dampers
Lubrication of bevels in the steering
Lubrication of wheel bearings
Lubrication of rear fork bearings
Carburation
Air filter
Fueltank
Fuel taps
Mufflers
Valve gearing
Tappet clearance
Checking valve timing
Ignition
Distributor
Spark plugs
Checking of ignition timing
Checking of ignition advance by stroboscope lamp
Adjustments
Generator belt
Clutch lever
Steering
Steering lock
Front brake lever
Rear brake pedal
Rear suspension units
Removal of wheels
Front wheel
Rear wheel
Electrical equipment
Wiring diagram European model
Wiring diagram USA model

During the first 1600 kms. (1000 miles), a new or overhauled machine ought to be used with some intelligence as the efficiency, performance, and life of the engine are largely dependent on how it is run in.

The engine should never be allowed to reach a high number of revolutions before it has had a chance to warm up sufficiently. Never ride the machine at the highest permissible speeds for each gear before the machine has been well broken in.
Should the engine speed drop off considerably on an uphill grade, a lower gear should be immediately engaged. In case of overheating, it is best to stop and allow the engine to cool down.

Under no circumstances whatever should the following speeds be exceeded in the running in period.
Maximum permissible speeds:

Distance: up to 800 kms. (500 miles):
in low gear .    45 kms. (28    miles)
in second gear    65 kms. (40.5    miles)
in third gear    85 kms. (53    miles)
in high gear    110 kms. (68    miles)
from 800 to 1600 kms. (500 to 1000 miles) :
in low gear .    55 kms. (34.5 miles)
in second gear 80 kms. (50    miles)
in third gear 105 kms. (65    miles)
in high gear    135 kms. (84 miles) 
From 1600 to 3000 kms. (1000 to 1800 miles) the speed can be gradually increased up to the maximum permissible limits.

After the first 500 kms. (300 miles)
Change the engine oil. Tighten all nuts and bolts. Check valve clearance. Check distributor points.
Every 500 kms.
(3W miles)
Check oil level. Correct level is in between the minimum and maximum mark on the filler cap dipstick.

1 . Front brake lever
2. Air control lever
3. Throttle control grip
4. Starter button
5. Filler cap
6. Gearshift lever
7. Pillion footrest
8. Pillion handgrip
9. Headlight
10. Speedometer
11. Ignition key
12. Rev-counter
13. Clutch lever
14. Light switch and horn button
15. Side stand
16. Rear brake pedal
17. Footrests
18. Center stand
19. Tail light
The machine can also be supplied with gearshift lever on the left and rear brake pedal on the right.

N.B. - The terms << right >> and << left >> in the text are used in the sense they would appear to one sitting in the saddle.
Identification data (See fig. 4) Every machine is identified with a serial number which is stamped on the frame down tube and on the left hand crankcase cover.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2 - Left view

Fig. 3 - Right view

Every machine is identified with a serial number
which is stamped on the frame down tupe
and on the left hand crankcase cover.

Fig. 4

1. Box wrench, B9-21-22 mm.
2. Open ended wrench, 17-19 mm
3. Open ended wrench, 10-11 mm
4. Tappet adjusting wrench
5. Box wrench, 8-9 mm.
6. Allen key (5 hex)
7. Box wrench, 10-14 mm.
8. Universal pliers
9. Adjustable wrench
B 0. Screwdriver
11. Ring wrench, 27 mm.
12. Rear damper adjusting wrench
13. Tool bag

Fig. 5

Fig. 5/1

Compression ratio:                           9 to 1
Revs at maximum engine speed:      6500 r.p.m.
Output at maximum engine speed:   60 HP SAE
Crankcase:                                        in light alloy
Cylinders:                                         in light alloy with
                                                         hard chromed barrels
Cylinder heads:                                in light alloy, hemispherical,                                                              with special cast iron inserted                                                              seats.
Crankshaft:                                       steel construction
Crankshaft supports:                         in anti-friction material pressed                                                          in 2 suitable housings (as used                                                          in all F1 race cars)
Connecting rods:                              steel construction with AL-TIN                                                          alloy thin wall bearings
Pistons:                                             in light alloy

O.H.V., push rod operated via the camshaft in the crankcase and gear driven by the crankshaft.
Inlet:

opens 240 before TDC closes 580 after BDC

Exhaust:

opens 580 after BDC - closes 220 after TDC

Rocker clearance for valve timing:

0.5 mm. (.0196") 

Normal rocker clearance (cold engine):

inlet 0.15 mm. (.0059")
exhaust 0.25 mm. (.0098")

2 Dell'Orto carburetors type VHB 29 CD
(right) and VHB 29 CS (left) both gravity
fed from the tank.

Choke:                 29 mm.
Throttle slide:       60
Atomizer:           265
Main jet:             145
Pilot jet:                45
Starter atomizer:    80

With needle SV9 set at second notch
from top: idling screw open 1 and 1/2 turns for
the left carburetor and 1 and 1/4 - 2 turns
for the right carburetor.

With needle SV5 third notch from top:
idling screw open 11/2 to 2 turns for the
left carburetor and 2 - 21/2 turns for the right
carburetor.

Air intake provided with dry filter.

Pressure, by gear pump driven by the crankshaft.

Oil strainer in crankcase.

Normal lubrication pressure 3.8 - 4.2 kgs/sq. cm. (54 to 60 lbs sq.in.) controlled by relief valve.

Electrically controlled oil pressure gauge.

By air. Cylinder and cylinder head deeply finned.

By battery with automatic advance distributor.

Initial advance: 10˚.
Automatic advance: 28'0.

Ignition timing 38˚ full advance.

Contact breaker gap: 0.42-0.48 mm. (.016" .018").

Spark plug: n. 225 in Bosch-Marelli scale or equivalent.

Plugs point gap: 0.6 mm. (.023") Ignition coil.

Electric starter with electromagnetic ratchet control.
Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Operated by starter button.

Dual exhaust pipes and mufflers.

Twin driven plates, dry type, located on the flywheel. Controlled by lever on left handlebar.

Four speeds, frontal engagement. Constant mesh gears. Cush drive incorporated.

Separate case bolted on crankcase, operated by rocker pedal on the right side of the machine.
Engine gear-box ratio: 1 to 1.375 (16-22)
Internal gear ratios :
- Low gear    . . . I to 2.230 (13-29)
- Second gear . . 1 to 1.333 (18-24)

- Third gear    . . . 1 to 0.954 (22-21)
- High gear    . . .1 to 0.750 (24-1)

By constant speed double joint cardan shaft
Layshaft - bevel gear ratio:
    1 : 4.375 (8-35) Overall gear ratios:
- Low gear . . . . . . 1 to 13.413
 - Second gear . . . . . I to 8.015
- Third gear . . . . . . 1 to 5.735
- High gear . . . . . . I to 4.510

Duplex cradle, tubular structure.

Telescopic front fork incorporating hydraulic
dampers.
Rear swinging fork with externally adjustable
springs.

18x3 rims, front and rear. Tires 4.00x18 front and rear, block type (high
speed).

Front tire:
solo    1.5 kgs/sq.cm. = 21 p.s.i.
with passenger

Rear tire:
solo    1.8 kgs/sq.cm. = 25 p.s.i.
with passenger    2.0 kgs/sq.cm. = 28 p.s.i.

N.B. - The above recommendation is for normal
riding (cruising speed). If using the machine at
constant high speed or c>n motarways, the above
pressures should be lncreased by 0.2 kgs/sq.cm.
(2.8 p.s.i.).

Twin leading shoes front brake operated by
hand lever on the right handlebar,

Large rear brake operated on left hand side
of machine.

Wheelbase               1.470 mts. (about 57.8" )
Length                     2.245 mts. (about 88.3" )
Width                       0.830 mts. (about 32.6" )

Height (dry)             1.070 mts. (about 42" )
Minimum ground
clearance                  0.150 mts. (about 5.9" )
Curb weight                228 kgs. (about 502 lbs.)

Maximum permissible speeds and gradients
climbable in each gear, solo riding.

Low gear:    62 kms/h (38.5 m.p.h..)
climbing ability: 60%

Second gear: 104.250 kms/h (64.6 m.p.h.)
climbing ability: 40%

Third gear: 145.250 kms/h (89.2 m.p.h.)
climbing ability: 20%

High gear:    185.276 kms/h (115 m.p.h.)
climbing ability: 8%

Measured according to CUNA standards 37 m.p.g. (US).

Fuel tank: 22.5 liters (5.84 US gls.) including
about 4 liters reserve (about 1 Us gl.).
Petrol 98 NO (Regular octane)
- Sump 3 liters (33/4 quarts) Shell Super Motor Oil 100
- Transmission 0.750 liter ( 11/4 pints) Shell Spirax 90 E.P.
- Rear wheel drive 0.300 liters (518 pints) Shell Spirax 90 E.P.
- Front fork dampers 0.160 liters = 5.4 oz Shell Tellux 33.

1. Speedometer.
2. Town driving light (green).

3. Red warning light indicating insufficient
    flow of current from generator for battery
    charge. Sould go out when the engine
    has reached a certain number of
    revolutions.

4. Orange. This is the neutral indicator light.
    Is not lighted when any gear is engaged.
5. Red warning light. Oil pressure gauge.
    Will go out when oil pressure for normal
    engine operation is sufficient.
6. Revolution counter.

Fig. 6

This key has 3 positions:
<< 0 >>   Machine at standstill, key removable,
                all electrics switched off.
<< 1 >>   Machine standing, key removable,
                parking lights on.
<< 2 >>   Running position or machine ready to
                set out. All controls on. For daylight
                driving no other position necessary.
                For night driving levers A and B on
                the left handlebar must be switched on
                ( Fig. 7).

On right handlebar with the ignition key in
position 2 the machine is ready to be started.

Fig. 6/1

Every machine is supplied with an ignition
key and a duplicate. Key number should
be recorded and reported to your dealer in
case of loss.

It is located on the left hand side of the
steering column and it is key operated.

Every machine is supplied with a key and a
duplicate. Key number should be
recorded and reported to your dealer in case of loss.

It is located on the left handlebar.
a) position << 0 >>: lights off ;
    position << 1 >>: parking light (town driving light) ;
    position << 2 >>: low beam;
b) position << 3 >>: low beam; dimmer
    position << 4 >>: high beam switch
c) horn button.

Is on left handlebar and should be used for
starting and gear shifting only.

It is located on the right handlebar. Throttle
 is opened by turning toward the rider.

Fig. 6/2

is on the right hand side of the handlebar.
It is opened by pulling toward the rider and
vice versa.

On right hand side of machine or on left if required.

On right hand side of machine.

On left hand side of machine or on right if required.

Fig. 7

Ensure there is sufficient fuel in the tank
and that the crankcase oil is at correct level.
Insert the ignition key and switch it on to
position 2 (fig. 6/1 ), ensuring that the red
oil pressure light and the orange neutral
indicator light are on. If the engine is started
from cold, ensure that the easy starting air
control is opened and then push the starter
button on the right hand side of the handlebar.

When the engine has started, release the
starting button and allow the engine to idle
for a short time in the cold season to give
a chance to the oil to warm up and reach
all the lubricating points. Then close the
easy starting air control. If this is left open,
there, will be excessive petrol consumption
and irregular carburation.

Attempting to start the engine in gear can
be very dangerous unless the clutch lever
is kept fully disengaged as with the firing
of the engine the machine itself may start off.
Even at very low temperatures, the engine
should always start easily, provided there is
sufficient thrust from the starter motor and
everything is in good running order.

If the engine does not start easily, do not
persist in many attempts, but check carburation,
ignition, battery charge, and that the oil
is not too heavy.

When starting a hot engine there is no need
to close the air lever as this would richen
the mixture and make starting difficult. If
starting a hot engine gives some difficulty,

It is well to open the throttle completely
before pushing in the starter button.

Pull the clutch lever completely, engage low
gear, release the clutch slowly, and at the same
time turn the gas on.

As soon as the engine has picked up some
speed, close the gas, pull the clutch and by
downward toe pressure engage second gear.
Then release the clutch rapidly (but not with
a jerk) and turn on the gas once more. Third
and high gear are likewise engaged by toe
pressure.

In normal riding conditions, all the tell-tale
lights should be off, except naturally the
green light when night driving in towns. If
any one of them light up, this means there
is some fault in the system or oil pressure
is insufficient.

The maximum speeds in each gear should never
be exceeded, not even on steep downhil
grades. Do not forget that by toe pressure you
pass to a higher gear and by heel pressure
to a lower gear (Fig. 9). Before any gear
is engaged, make sure the clutch is completely
disengaged.  it is necessary to fully close
the gas when you change up but it can only
be closed partially when changing down. To
obtain fast and effortless gear shifts, always
depress the pedal firmly but gently without
stamping or jabbing vigorously on it.

The free position (neutral) is in between first
and second gear. To locate this position it is
necessary to shift to low gear and then by
slight (toe) pressure (half stroke) to feel for
neutral position.

With the machine standing still and the engine
running, the transmission should always
be kept in neutral. Do not keep the clutch
lever depressed, even during the briefest
stops. Always change to a higher gear rather
than let the engine race.

Fig. 9

As soon as the machine stops, close the
throttle, shift to neutral, turn the key to the
<< 0 >> position and take it off (Fig 6/1).

Fig. 8 Lubrication Chart [Return to Index]

1 ) Check electrolyte level in battery (every 15
     days in summer) See << Battery >>

2 ) Check tire pressure with a gauge.

3) Replace the crankcase oil.
    See << Engine lubrication >>
4) Tighten all nuts and bolts.
5) Check and adjust tappet play, if necessary.
    << See Tappet adjustment >>
6) Check and if necessary top up oil leve
    in crankcase. Correct oil level is in between the
    minimum and maximum marks on the dipstick.
    (See . Engine lubrication).

7) Lubricate cable ends. See << Lubrication
     of clutch, front brake and air cables >>

  8) Replace oil in crankcase. See << Engine lubrication >>.
  9) Check tappet clearance. See << Tappet clearance >>.
10) Check and clean spark plugs. See << Spark plugs >>.
11) Check oil level in gear box and if necessary
       top up. See << Lubrication of gear box >>.
12) Check oil level in transmission box for lubricating
      bevel gears. If necessary, top up.

13) Clean petrol taps and filters, carburetor filters
      and fuel line to carburetors.
      See << Carburation >>
14) Strip carburetor and check all parts. Use an
      air jet to clean out all ducts.
      See << Carburation >>
15) Change gear box oil.
      See << Lubrication of transmission >>
16) Change rear drive box oil.
      See << Lubrication of rear drive box >>
17) Check cleanliness and tightness of all battery
      connections and smear them with vaseline.
      See << Battery >>
18) Clean commutator of generator using a clean cloth slightly moistened in petrol. See << Generator >>

19) Check condition of wheel bearings and if
      still efficient pack them with grease.
      See << Lubrication of wheel bearings >>.
20) Check condition of steering bearings and if
      still good pack with grease,
21) Replace all in Inner tubes.
      See << Lubrication of fork >>.
22) Clean starter motor commutator using a clean
      rag slightly moistened with petrol.

Using the oil filler dipstick (A), check the
sump level every 500 kms. (300 miles).
Correct oil level is in between the minimum
and maximum marks. Make this check on
a warm engine with the filler cap screwed
on one turn.

Fig. 9

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) change the
engine oil (on a new or overhauled machine
this change should be made after the first
500 kms. (300 miles). The oil should be
replaced when the engine is warm by
unscrewing filler cap (a) and drain plug (B).
Allow all the old oil to drain, re-fit plug B,
and introduce fresh oil. Quantity required:
about 3 liters (3 3/4 quarts). Oil recommended:
Shell Super Motor Oil 100.

Fig. 10

Fig. 9 bis

Under no circumstances should this valve
be tampered with as it has already been
calibrated at the factory for a pressure
operation of 3.8 - 4.2 kgs/sq.cm. (54 - 60 lbs.
sq.in.).

The indicator light goes out when the pressure
is sufficient to open the contact of the pressure
operated solenoid.

If this light stays lit, then the oil pressure
is incorrect. In such cases, stop the engine
and inspect all passages and oil lines to
determine the cause and correct it before restarting.

The oil in this box must be checked every
3000 kms. ( 1800 miles). The level is correct
when the oil is flush with plug hole (A).
Change this oil every 10.000 kms. (6000
miles). This operation should be carried out
a short time after a ride when the oil is
warm and easily drained.

To change the oil proceed as follows:
unscrew filler cap B, level plug A and drain
plug e under the box. When the old oil has
drained and plug C re-fitted, introduce fresh
oil through B until it starts to leak out from
level hole A, when both plugs can be put
back.

Oil quantity required: about 0.750 liter (1 3/4
pints ).

Oil recommendation: Shell Spirax 90 E.P.

The oil level of this box should be checked
every 3000 kms. (B800 miles).

The oil should just skim hole A. Change the
oil every 10.000 kms. (6000 miles) and do
this operation on a hot engine. Unscrew
 filler plug B, level plug A, and drain plug C.
 When the old oil has drained, refit plug C
 and introduce new oil until it starts seeping
 through hole A, finally screwing on plug A.
 Quantity required: about 0.230 liters (11/2
pint).

Oil recommendation: Shell Spirax 90 E.P.

Fig. 11

Every 20.000 kms. ( 12.000 miles) or earlier,
 if necessary, change the oil in the fork tubes.
 Proceed as follows : remove the drain plugs
 and washer (A) and plugs (B). When the
oil has drained, and drain plug A screwed on,
introduce fresh oil through B.

Quantity of oil required for each fork tube:
about 0.160 liters (5,4 oz.). Oil recommendation:
Shell Tellux 33.

Every 20.000 kms. (12.000 miles) check
condition of these bearings and pack them
with Shell Retinax A grease.

Every 20.000 kms. (12.000 miles) check the
condition of these bearings and pack with
Shell Retinax A grease.

Every 8000 kms. (600 miles) clean the cable
 ends and lubricate with Shell Retinax A
grease. Actuate the levers several times to
 allow some of the grease to enter into the
casings.

At the time of a general overhaul it is well
to inspect these bearings to ensure that they
are still efficient and, if necessary, pack them
with grease. Recommended lubricant: Shell
Retinax A.

Fig. 12

Every 10.000 kms. (6000 miles) or any time
when fuel flow is irregular, the fuel lines,
taps, 4-way adapter, and the carburetor connections
as well as the filters in the taps and
in the carburetors should be inspected and
cleaned.

The filters are best cleaned in a petrol bath
and dried off with compressed air. Ensure
that the lines have not hardened too much
at their connecting ends. If too hard, they
should be replaced with original equipment.

This model is fitted with 2 dual control
Dell'Orto carburetors type VHB 29 CD on
the right and VHB 29 CS on the left.

Both controls are on the right handlebar:
 one is the air lever for easy starting, and
the other is the throttle twist grip control.
Every 10.000 kms. (6000 M1103) the carburetor
bowl should be cleared out thoroughly
and all carburetor ducts blown through with
compressed air. Air should also be used to
clean the jets as the use of wires or needles
may alter the size of the jet and so upset
carburation.

Choke                          :    29 mm.
Throttle slide                :    60
Atomizer                      :    265
Main jet                       :    145
Pilot jet                        :    45
Needle                         :    SV5 second notch from top
Air control atomixer    :    80

This adjustment must be made on a warm
engine with the Inlet and exhaust tappets
at correct distance.

Proceed as follows:

I ) Ensure that the air control in its fully
    closed position has about 4 mm. (.16")
    and play. If the cable is too stretched,
    engine vibration may cause the valves to
    open and a resulting irregular carburation.

2) Check synchronization of both gas valves
    with the filter box and the Inlet sleeve
    disconnected. Turn the throttle grip keeping
    at the some time your fingers on the
    carburetor slides to feel if both valves
    open by the same amount and simultaneously.
    Should one valve open before
    the other, this can be corrected by setting
    screw A (fig. 13) in the position where by
    turning the throttle both valves open
    simultaneously.

3) Adjust the idling speed by acting on screw
    C in (fig. 13). Screwing this in reduces the
    fuel flow and vicaversa increase it. To
    adjust, tighten and then turn screw out
    11/2 turns for the L/H carburetor and 1 3/4
    to 2 turns for the R/H carburetor.

    With the engine running at about 1000-
    1200 r.p.m., disconnect one of the leads
    and turn screw C (fig. 13) of the opposite
    carburetor in or out to the position which
    will give the best idling speed i.e. when
    the revs are slightly increasing.

    The same operation should be repeated on
    the opposite carburetor. This will give
    correct idling speed and prevent popping
    and spit backs.

Engine revolutions: Due to the characteristics
of this engine, the idling adjustment
should never be made with the
engine running at less than 800-900 r.p.m.

A good idling speed is obtained as follows:

4) Disconnect the R/H cylinder plug lead and
    after starting the engine, ensure that the
    engine stops after flring 4 or 5 times. If it
    dies out sooner or later, it is necessary
    to adjust idling screw. B (fig. 13) setting
    it a the point where the engine will stop
    after it has fired 4 or 5 times.

Fig. 13

The same operation should be repeated
on the right hand cylinder, with the left
hand plug lead disconnectod. If the R/H
cylinder is normal, the engine should stop
 after firing 4-5 times. If not, screw B
fig, 13 should be adjusted to the position
where it does so. Finally, the left cylinder
plug lead should be re-connected.

Remove:
- Mixture chamber cover (I ) complete with
    cable adjusting nut and spring (2), after
    loosening screws (3).
- Throttle slide (4) with taper needle (5).
- Throttle slide stop screw and spring (6).
- Plug and washer (7).
- Bowl (8).
- Pilot jet. 19).
- Accelerator pump 10) with main jet ( 11 ) and atomizer 13).
- Atomizer (13).
- Float (14) with securing pin (15).
- Needle (16).
- Pilot air screw (17) with spring.
- Adaptor screw (18) with washer.
- Adaptor ( 19).
- Adaptor filter (20).
- Air control plug (21 ) with screw and nut.
- Plug securing screw (22).
- Spring (23) with air control plug (24).

Fig. 14

After the carburetor has been stripped and
all parts cleaned with an air jet, it is a good
practice to inspect and clean the fuel filters
and line from the tank.

The dry type filter is located in a suitable
box secured to the frame. Air to the carburetor
is taken directly through a rubber sleeve
from the air filter box. When the filter is
too dirty, replace it with original equipment.

Fig. 15

When stripping the carburetors, the fuel tank,
tap filters, tap ducts (A), adaptor fliters (B),
fuel lines (C), and the four-way adaptor
should also be throughly cleaned. The tank
 is best cleaned when removed from the tank,
pouring some petrol in it and shaking vigorously.
Drain from the top opening to carry away
any sludge or scaling which may have
deposited at the bottom of the tank. The
 filters are best cleaned with petrol and
compressed air.

Fig. 16

Are located under the fuel tank. When turned
downwards (A) the taps are open, and viceversa
when In the horizontal position (B). 
It is suggested to ride with only one tap
open and to use the other as a reserve to
be opened in an emergency.

It is a good practice to occasionally check
if the fuel reserve tap is still efficient. Clean
it, if obstructed.

Fig. 16/1

Internal cleaning of the mufflers is carried
out as follows: fill the mufflers with a
solution of boiling water and caustic soda
(20%) and allow thorn to stand for about
an hour when they can be emptied and rinsed
out with boiling water while shaking vigorously.

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) or any time
valve operation is too noisy, check tappet
clearance.

This adjustment is made on a cold engine
with the piston at TDC and both valves closed
while the piston is on its compression stroke.

Using the wrench supplied in the tool kit
undo nut A and screw in or out screw D.

Correct clearance is:
    Inlet valve          0.15 mm. (.0059")
    Exhaust valve    0.25 mm. (.0098")

Use a feeler gauge (C) to check this clearance.
When this is excessive, there will be
noisy valve operation.

If is less, the valves may not close fully
causing compression loss, overheating of the
engine, etc.

On a new engine, this adjustment must be
made after the first 500 kms. (300 miles).

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

The engine is timed when the gears are set
as shown at A and B in (fig. 18). A proper
check of valve timing is always done better
in any officially appointed Moto Guzzi dealer
shop

Every 3000 kms. (about 1800 miles) the cam
felt pad should be lubricated with a few
drops of oil and the contact points inspected
to ensure they are clean. If dirty or greasy,
clean them with a petrol soaked cloth. Correct
gap is 0.42 - 0.48 mm. (.016-.018"). If
they need adjusting, loosen screw 8 which
secures the fixed contact plate and move this
to the position which. will give the correct
gap. However, the contact points should be
changed whenever it is necessary.

Fig. 19

Every 3000 kms, (1800 miles) check the
gap which should be 0.6 mm. (.023"). Check
also the high tension leads and replace. If
necessary. The spark plugs are best cleaned
with petrol, a wire brush, and a noodle for
the inner part.

In fitting the plugs, make sure they are started
by hand for a few turns and to complete
the operation by means of the plug
wrench in the tool kit. Do not over tighten to
prevent stripping of the thread.

Remove generator belt cover. Check that the
distributor contact points are 0.42-0.48 mm.
(.016"-.018") apart. Ensure the left cylinder
(2) is on its compression stroke i.e. with
both valves closed. Rotate the generator pulley
 on the crankshaft till the slot (fig. 19/1 )
is opposite mark A traced on the timing
cover.

In this position the points should start to
open and to ensure that they do so use a
timing light which will light up at the exact
time the points start opening.

If the points start to open before or after
the mentioned point, slacken distributor securing
bolt C (fig. 19) and turn the distributor
to the right or left to the position
where the points start opening at the proper
time.

The cylinder number is market on the
distributor cap as follows:
n. 1 (right cylinder),
n. 2 (left cylinder),
<< bobina >> = coil. (See D in fig. 19).

For checking the ignition advance, the crankshaft
driven generator pulley of the V-7 engines
has been provided now with 3 additional
timing marks. When in coincidence with
arrow << A >> already stamped on the timing
cover, these marks will serve to determine if
the ignition is correctly timed.

The new reference marks on the pulley (See
fig. 19/1 and diagram 19/2) can be defined
as follows:

    << B >> (first on the left) is the TDC position
                    mark for the 2nd cylinder (on the
                    left, as seen astride the 'saddle).

    << C >> is the 10˚ fixed advance position
                   to the TDC.

    << D >> in the 30˚ automatic advance position
                   to the TDC.

    << E >> is the 38˚ maximum advance position
                 (fixed + automatic) to the TDC.

With the engine assembled on the machine,
this control is made as follows:

Remove generator belt cover by unscrewing
its 3 retaining bolts.

Connect the timing device cable to the
plug of cylinder 2 (left sitting in the
saddle).,

Connect the 2 stroboscope cables with
clamps to a battery, ensuring that clamp ( + )
 is secured to battery pole ( + ) and the
other to pole (-).

After these connections to the plug and battery
have been made, start the engine and
direct the stroboscope light on to arrow << A >>
on the timing cover.

Check that this arrow coincides with the
generator pulley marks << C-D-E >> at the
following engine speeds:

- Mark << C >> at 1200 ± 100 r.p.m.
- Mark << D >> at 2200 ± 100 r.p.m.
- Mark << E >> at 3600 ± 100 r.p.m.

Fig. 19/1

If this check shows that arrow << A >> is in
coincidence with pulley marks << C-D-E >> at
the above engine speeds, then the fixed and
automatic advance are quite normal.

Fig. 19/2

After long service the belt may slacken and
in such that it should be tensioned, Normal
belt slack A is 1 cm. per 10 kgs. (.039"/21
lbs.). The belt is tightened as follow:

- Unscrew bolts B which secure the outer
  half-pulley to the hub,

- remove the external half pulley,

- remove one or more spacing collars to
  reduce the width of the race,

- If it is necessary to remove more than one
  spacer, they should be placed at the front
  and rear of the pulley.

Finally, re-fit the outer half-pulley, tightening
its 3 securing bolt (B).

Fig. 20

This lever should be adjusted when the free
play at the handlebar is more or less than
4 mm. (1/8"). Slacken thumb screw B and
screw in or out adjuster A to obtain the
correct distance. Don't forget to re-lock thumb
screw B.

If the distance is less, the clutch may slip
causing the plates to wear out. If it is more,
there may be incomplete disengagement of
the clutch and consequent noisy gearshifting.
This adjustment can also be carried out by
slackening nut D and acting on adjuster C
bolted on the battery bracket.

Fig. 21

Looseness of the steering is remedied as follows:
Slacken locknut A and using a suitable
wrench, adjust lockring B to the position
which will take up excessive play and then
re-lock nut A by keeping a hold on lockring
B. Do not forget that loose steering may
 cause wear of the taper bearings.

Fig. 22

It is located on the L/H side of the steering
column (See A) and it is key operated.

To lock: turn the handlebar completely to
the right end Insert the key turning  it forward
(toward the front wheal). Push it in, release
it and pull it out.

To open: Insert key in the lock turn it
forward and release it.

Fig. 22/1

Play at the handlebar lever should be checked
periodically. The lever is adjusted when there
is about 20-25 mm (3/4 to 1") play at the
handlebar before the linings contact the
drums.
Excessive play is corrected by acting on
thumb screw B and adjuster A or on adjuster
C and nut D on the hub cover.

Fig. 23

Adjustment of this lover is made by means
of the thumb screw fitted on the threaded
portion of the brake rod.

Excessive play is corrected by screwing in
thumb screw A on the rod until there is a
play of about 20-25 mm (3/4 to 11") at
pedal B before the linings contact the drums.
Generally, when the screw is fully screwed
on it means that the lining is completely
worn out and has to be changed.

Fig. 24

The rear suspension unit has a 3-position
adjustment:
  I for normal load.
 II medium load
III heavy load.
Change over to any required position is made
by turning knob B using the special wrench
(A) in the tool kit. This knob is turned
anticlockwise until << II >> or << III >> coincides
with reference C.

Fig. 25

To remove the front wheel disconnect the
front brake cable from the operating lever
on hub cover and unscrew cable adjuster B.
Undo nut << C >> which secures the wheel
spindle to the right fork member and bolt B
which secures the left hand member, taking
 out the wheel spindle. Now push the wheel
down just sufficiently to free the brake
block from its anchoring lug on the left fork
member and back it out.

N.B. - When reassembling don't forget to insert the
brake block in its anchorage on the left fork
member.

Fig. 26

Unscrew nut A which secures the wheel spindle
to the rear drive box and the nut which
secures the stay to the brake block. Undo the
rear brake adjusting thumb screw (B) and
bolt C which locks the spindle to the rear
fork and withdraw the spindle.

Pushing the wheel to the left will free the
wheel from the sleeve in the drive box thus
allowing the wheel to be removed by leaning
the machine sideways.

N.B. - When reassembling don't forget to secure
the anchoring brace to the brake block.

Fig. 27

The 12 V battery is centrally mounted and
has a capacity of 32 Ah.  It is charged directly
by the generator.

Every 3000 kms. (1800 miles) check the
electrolyte level in each cell and If necessary
top up with distilled water, using a glass or
plastic funnel. The level is correct when the
acid tops the plate separator by about 6 mm.
(1/4") Always top up with distilled water
and not with sulphuric acid.

Add distilled water to a cold battery and
after it has not been in use for at least
6 hours.

Make sure that no electrolyte flows over the
top of the battery which must always be in
 a perfectly dry condition. If the level In any
one cell is lower than in others, this may
be due to either cracks or other faults and
in such case the battery should be immediately
replaced.

Every 6000 miles check that all battery
connections are in a perfectly clean condition
and smear them with vaseline to prevent
oxidation.

The battery is charged when the hydrometer
reading shows about 1.28 sp.g. for normal
service and about 1.23 sp.g. for service in
tropical conditions. An almost discharged
battery shows a reading of about 1.16 sp.g.
for normal service and about 1. 1 sp.g. for
tropical conditions.

Putting the dry charged battery in service

1. Break off the seal and unscrew the plug.

2. lntroduce pure sulphuric acid of 1275
    sp.g. - temperature 15˚ (31˚ Baume).

    This operation has to be carried out very
    carefully and particular attention should
    be paid to the specific gravity of the
    recommended liquid.

    The correct electrolyte level is 6 mm.
    over the plate separators (.23").

3. Let the battery at rest for about 2 hours
    and then top up with electrolyte to the
    recommended level.

    The battery can now be charged for
    8-15 hours at a current intensity equal to
    1/10th of its normal amperage (in 10
    hours discharge).

4. The battery is now ready to be put in service.

During the period that the battery is left at
rest before use, ensure the electrolyte level
is about 6 mm (.23") over the top of the
plate separators. Ensure that this level is
maintained at all times with the addition
of distilled water. Never add sulphuric acid.
If the battery is not used immediately it is
best to have it charged for a short period
every month or every time before it is used.

Before re-charging make absolutely certain
that the battery is in a perfectly clean condition.

Connect to the charging medium and use
preferably an amperage equal to but not
exceeding 1/10th of the rated battery capacity
over a period of 10 hours.

If during the charge the electrolity temperature
(measured with a thermometer immerged
in the electrolyte) should get up to 50˚C
(122˚F),  it will be necessary to reduce or
interrupt the charge until the temperature
has dropped to under 40˚C (104˚F).

Never add sulphuric acid but top up onlywith chemically pure distilled water.

Every 10.000 kms. (6000 miles), the commutator
should be cleaned with a clean cloth
 slightly moistened in petrol.

Copper or carbon dust which may have
deposited in between the rotor blades can be
removed by compressed air.

When cleaning the commutator check also
the condition of the brushes and if chipped
or worn, replace them ensuring that they
make good contact and are flush with the
commutator, or else this may get damaged.

N.B. - Replacement of brushes must be made with
original parts and preferably fully qualified
electricians.

The regulator is sealed to prevent it from
being tampered with. In case of failures or
incorrect operation, it should be sent for
inspection to the makers or their agents.
Replacements must be made with original
parts bearing the same number.

Clean its commutator every 20.000 kms or
so (12,000 miles). To cloan it use a petrol
moistened cloth.

Carbon or copper dust between the rotor
blades can oaslly be removed by compressed
air. Check condition of the brushes and if
any are worn or chipped, replace them. To
avoid damage to the commutator, the brushes
should be in perfect even contact with
it. Use only original parts and have this
job done preferably by qualified electricians.

The 12 V horn does not require any maintenance.
In case of irregular operation have  it seen to by
competent electricians or replace it.

Does not require any adjustmont but in case
of faulty operation, remove its cover and
check all contacts, screwing down tightly
all wires.

The headlamp is perfectly watertight and this
makes internal inspection practically unneccessary.
The reflecter should never be polished
as it is extremely delicate and might
easily lose its lustre.

In case of replacements, always use lamps
of same size and specifications as originally
 fitted:
Headlamp:
- main bulb 45/40 W (round).
- pilot bulb 5 W (tubular).
Tail lamp:
- 5/20 W double filamont lamp (round)
Instrument panel:
- panel illumination 3 W (round)
- pilot light indicator 3 W (round);
- ammeter 3
- neutral indicator 3 W
- oil pressure 3 W.

- Headlight: sealed beam insert:    168 mm.
   (6.6")                                         45/40 W
- Tail light: two filament, round     20/5 W
- Speedometer: round                     3 W
- Dimmer indicator: round              3 W
- Ammeter: round                           3 W
- Neutral indicator: round               3 W
- Oil pressure: round                      3 W

Of approved type on both US and European
versions.

4 fuses of 25 Amp. protect all the battery
fed electrics i.e. ignition switch, speedometer,
warning lights, stop light, and horn. If a fuse
blows, trace and correct the cause, and replace
with a similar fuse.

Cables

Check then over occasionally and ensure
thelr perfect condition. Replace as neccssary.

N.B. - If any extra accessoried are added,ensure
they are connected to the terminals which can
stand the load and not going beyond the capacity
of the terminal itself and/or the H.T. leads, thus
preventing possible damage to the electirc system.

 Fig. 28

Wiring diagram European model

  1 - Black               : Battery (+) to starter motor
  2 - Red                  : Battery to regvlator 51 B +
  3 - Red                  : Ignition switch 30/30 to battery +
  4 - Grey-red          : Regulator to generator D +
  5 - White               : Regulator DF to generator DF
  6 - Black               : Headlight to stop cutout
  7 - Yellow              : Headlight terminal to tail light
  8 - Green               : Warning light F to neutral indicator cutout
  9 - Brown              : Starter button to starter motor solenoid
10 - Blue-black        : Headlight terminal to H.T. coil
11 - Grey                 : Warning light F to oil pressure cutout
12 - Red                  : Warning light A to generator
13 - Black               : Distributing block to horn
14 - Red                  : Ignition key 15/54 to headlight terminal
15 - White               : Speedometer AA to distributing block
16 - Yellow-black    : Warning light CC to distributing block
17 - Brown              : Ignition switch INT to headlight terminal
18 - White-black      : Warning light FF to headlight terminal
19 - Green               : Light switch to distributing block
20 - Green-black      : Light switch to distributing block
21 - Grey-red           : Light switch to distributing block
22 - Brown               : Light switch to headlight terminal
22 - Black                : Horn button to distributing block
24 - Black                : Horn T+ to headlight terminal
25 - Blue                  : Parking light to distributing block
26 - Black                : Stop light cutout to tail bulb
27 - Black                : Regulator to grOund
28 - Black                : Battery to grotind
29 - Black                : H.T. coil to contact breaker
30 - Black                : H.T. coil to distributor
31 - Black                : Distributor to spark plug
32 - Black                : Distributor to spark plug
33 - Black                : Headlamp to ground
34 - Green                : Distributing block to low beam light
35 - Green-black      : Distributing block to high beam light
36 - Black                : Headlight bulb to ground
37 - Black                : Parking light to ground
38 - Blue-black        : Headlight terminal to button liorn
39 - Blue-black        : H.T. coil + to rev-counter
40 - Black                : H.T. coil - to rev-counter 1
41 - Black                : Rev-counter BB to ground
42 - Black                : Starter motor to group

  A    HEADLIGHT
  B    MAIN LIGHT BULB
  C    TERMINAL BLOCK WITH FUSES
  D    DISTRIBUTING BLOCK
  E    LIGHT SWITCH AND HORN BUTTON
  F    SPARK PLUG
  G    DISTRIBUTOR
   H    CONTACT BREAKER
    I    H.T. COIL
   L    STARTER BUTTON
  M    HORN
   N    NEUTRAL INDICATOR CUTOUT
   O    STOP LIGHT
   P    OIL PRESSURE CUTOUT
   Q    IGNITION SWITCH
   R    NUMBER PLATE AND TAIL LIGHT
   S    PLATE ILLUMINATION
   T    GENERATOR
   U    REGULATOR
   V    BATTERY
   Z    STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID
   X    STARTER MOTOR
AA    SPEEDOMETER WITH ILLUMINATION BULB
BB    REV-COUNTER
CC    LIGHTS INDICATOR (RED)
DD    NEUTRAL INDCATOR (AMBER)
EE    CHARGE INDICATOR (RED)
FF    OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR (RED)
GG    PARKING LIGHT

-0-
-1- 30/30 - ING
-2- 30/30 - INT 15/54
-3- 30/30 - INT 15/54 - 50

NB Position <<3>> does not serve on machines
       with starter button

Fig. 29

Wiring diagram USA model [Return to Index]

  1 - Black                : Battery V to starter motor solenoid Z
  2 - Red                   : Regulator U 51 B + to battery V
  3 - Red                   : Battery V to ignition switch Q
  4 - Gray-red           : Generator T to regulator U (D+)
  5 - White                : Generator T to regulator U (DF)
  6 - Black                : Terminal with fuses C to stop cutout 0
  7 - Yellow               :  Distributing block D to tail light bulb R
  8 - Green                : Neutral cutout N to warning light DD
  9 - Green                : Starter button L to starter solenoid Z
9/7 - Blue-black        : Terminal block C to starter button L
10 - Blue-black         : Terminal block C to H.T. coil I
10/1 - Blue-black      : Rev-counter BB (+) to H.T. coil I
11 - Grey                  : Oil pressure cutout P to oil pressure indicator FF
12 - Red                    : Generator T to warning light EE
13 - Black                 : Distributing block D to horn M (T-)
14 - Red                    : Terminal block C to ignition switch Q (15-54)
15 - White                 : Distributing block D to speedometer AA
16 - Yellow-black      : Distributing block D to warning light CC
17 - Brown                : Terminal block C to ignition switch Q ( Int.)
19 - White-black        : Terminal block C to warning light EE
19 - Green                  : Distributing block D to light switcli E
20 - Green-block        : Distributing block D to light switch E
21 - Gray-red              : Distributing block D to light switch E
22 - Brown                 : Terminal b!ock C to light switch E
23 - Black                   : Distributing blcck D to light switch E
25 - Biack                   : Stop light cutout 0 to tail light bulbs
26 - Black                   : Regulator U to ground
27 - Black                   : Battery V to ground
28 - Black                   : H.T. coil I to contact breaker H
29 - black                    : H.T. coil 1 to distributcr G
20/A - Black               : H.T. coil I to revcounter BB
30 - Black                   : Distributor G to spark plug F
31 - Block                   : Distributor G to spark plug F
37 - Black                   : Headlight B to ground
37/A. - Black              : Rev-counter BB to ground
37/B. - black               : Starter motor solenoid Z to neutral indicator N
41. Green-black          : Distributing block D to high beam filament B
42 - Green                  : Distributing block to low 6eam filament B
43 - Black                   : Headlight bulb B to ground on distributing block

   A    HEADLIGHT
    B    MAIN DIRIVING LIGHTS
    C    TERMINAL BLOCK WITH FUSES
    D    DISTRIBUTING BLOCK
    E    LIGHT SWITCH AND HORN BUTTON
    F    SPARK PLUGS
    G    DISTRIBUTOR
    H    CONTACT BREAKER
     I    H.T. COIL
    L    STARTER BUTTON
   M    HORN
    N    NEUTRAL INDICATOR CUTOUT
    O    STOP LIGHT CUTOUT
    P    OIL PRESSURE CUTOUT
    Q    IGNITION SWITCH
    R    NUMBER PLATE AND TAIL LIGHT
    Q    PLATE ILLUMINATION
    T    GENERATOR
    U    REGULATOR
    V    BATTERY
   Z    STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID
   X    STARTER MOTOR
AA    SPEEDOMETER (with illumination bulb)
BB    REV-COUNTER (with illumination bulb)
CC    LIGHTS INDICATOR (GREEN)
DD    NEUTRAL INDCATOR (AMBER)
EE    CHARGE INDICATOR (RED)
FF    OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR (RED)

-0-
-1- 30/30 - ING
-2- 30/30 - INT 15/54
-3- 30/30 - INT 15/54 - 50

NB Position <<3>> does not serve on machines
       with starter button