Moto Guzzi Quota

Purpose, disclaimer, and other resources

• Print this section

Purpose

The purpose of this page and the information it contains is to provide useful or hard-to-find information about Moto Guzzi Quota motorcycles (with specific emphasis on the 2000 model that was imported into the United States). The bulk of the data is information I collected while working on my 2000 Quota.

Entering Wyoming from Utah on Highway 150 - Jun, 2004.

Disclaimer

I have done my best to present correct and accurate information. However, I do not consider myself an expert in the area of Moto Guzzi motorcycles nor Quota models in particular. If you find this information useful, I'm glad to be of service. If you see something that is incorrect, I'd appreciate it if you would send me a quick email detailing the mistake. If you use any of the information I have provided, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of nor the consequence of using any content on this page.

Other resources

Of course, all of this information can be gleaned from alternative sources. For reading material, get the factory service manual and the factory spare parts catalog. For serious online discussions, try the Guzzi_Quota news group on Yahoo. For new parts, I recommend your local dealer. For used parts, call Mark Etheridge at Moto Guzzi Classics. ebay is also good place to look. If you want to be a member of an excellent motorcycle club, I recommend the Moto Guzzi National Owners Club.

Somewhere in the middle of Nevada along Highway 6 - Jun, 2004.

• Back to top

Air filter replacement

• Print this section

Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:

Stock Moto Guzzi (UFI) Air Filter: MG# 30113600
Dimensions: 1.25" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many later-model Californias, Sport1100, Daytona, Centauro, Quota (some or all?)
Cost: about $10-11

K&N: CG-9002
Dimensions: 1.00" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Same as above, plus some Cagiva (Gran Canyon, etc.)
Cross-reference: Moto Guzzi MG# 30113600; Cagiva 800064754
Cost: about $50.00

K&N: 33-2682
Dimensions: 1.06" H; 8.875" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many FIAT's, 1980's - present
Cross-reference: FIAT 4434868; Mann C2345
Cost: about $35.00

I have ordered the CG-9002 because the dimensions appear to be closest to stock. The 33-2682 is just 1/8" too long, but I imagine it could be made to fit within the airbox.

• Back to top

Brake light switch replacement (front)

• Print this section

Thanks to Paul Bonneau, Bert Fox, and Alfred Jorgensen for this information.

If your front brake light switch needs replacing, here are a few sources:

• Your local Moto Guzzi dealer may have it in stock for 5 or 6 bucks.
• Radio Shack item number 275-016, SPDT Switch w/o Roller (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
• Radio Shack item number 275-017, SPDT Switch with 3/4" Roller Lever (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
• Happ Controls (USD $25.00 minimum order) :: Cherry Waterproof Snap Switch part number 95-0863-00 (This should bolt right on)
• Shultz Electronics (USD $5.00 minimum order) :: Waterproof Micro Switch part number DC1 (This should bolt right on)

• Back to top

Brake line protection

• Print this section

Thanks to Roland Schaeffer for providing the following photos and information regarding how he is protecting the front brake lines on his Quota. In Roland's own words:

On your site you wrote:

"Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid."

Here are some pictures of how I solved this problem. I guess that this may cause problems if you do not take off the lower fairing part like I did, for when the fork travels in, the pipes are bent backward, so that they need more clearance than what is given in the original fairing configuration.

• Back to top

Brake pad replacements

• Print this section

Here are replacement brake pad references.

Front brake pads

• EBC FA209/2

Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA209 for Quota front brakeSnapshot from the EBC catalog: FA209 for Quota front brake

Rear brake pads

• Brembo 107-5269-20
• EBC FA181 (Thanks to Matthew Ranney for confirming the fitment of these brake pads.)

Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA181 for Quota rear brakeSnapshot from the EBC catalog: FA181 for Quota rear brake

• Back to top

Crankshaft o-ring cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the o-ring for the front of the crankshaft (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.

• Back to top

Cruise Control

• Print this section

I installed an electronic cruise control on my Quota. It works well, holds the chosen speed for an entire tank of gas, and makes interstate travel much more pleasurable. Here is what I did.

First, I did a little bit of Google research and found some existing information:

• Article A
• Article B
• Article C

I started by purchasing a Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control from Amazon (least expensive place I could find it).

Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise ControlAudiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control

Next, I began the task of fitting it to my Quota.

Mounting the control unit

I made a small bracket out of aluminum. The bracket is secured to the handlebar using the existing mirror mount. I cut a hole in the back through which the wires run.

I find the placement convenient. The unit, however, is not waterproof. I need to do some weatherproofing as it will stop working in the rain.

Front view of control unitFront view of control unit

Left view of control unitLeft view of control unit

Right view of control unitRight view of control unit

Connecting the cable to the throttle body

Using one of the brackets that came with the kit, I secured the cable housing to one of the bellhousing bolts. Then, using the ball chain from the kit and one of the adapters, I connected the cable to the part on the throttle body that rotates with the existing throttle cable. I secured the end of the adapter to the throttle through an existing hole using a small (5 mm, I think) bolt. If memory serves, I did not have to alter the part on the throttle body at all.

Cable routingCable routing

Close up of how the cable is secured to the bellhousingClose up of how the cable is secured to the bellhousing

View of the cableView of the cable

I used a connection similar to the one circledI used a connection similar to the one circled

Connecting the vacuum hoses

The vacuum hoses are connected to each intake port. Then, they are joined together under the saddle with a "T" connection. From there, I have installed a one-way valve (simple, Positive Crankcase Ventilation or PCV device). The hose then runs to a fitting on my homemade vacuum tank. Finally, a hose connects my homemade vacuum tank to the vacuum operated cable actuator that came with the kit.

At the intake ports, I used a pair of hose adapters from my existing stash of parts.

For the "T" connection, I used one of the "T" connectors that came with the kit.

For the PCV valve, I picked up something cheap and small off the shelf from my local auto parts store.

For the vacuum tank, I simply purchased a short length of 2" plastic pipe and two end caps. After drilling and tapping the holes in the end cap for my brass, 1/8" NPT, barbed vacuum hose connections, I screwed in the brass vacuum hose connections (using teflon tape on the threads) and glued the end caps onto the pipe. I used the largest diameter pipe in the longest length that would fit in the same I had. The goal here is to have the largest vacuum tank possible.

Vacuum hose connection on left side intake manifoldVacuum hose connection on left side intake manifold

Vacuum hose connection on right side intake manifoldVacuum hose connection on right side intake manifold

Hose routingHose routing

Close up of 'T' connectionClose up of 'T' connection

Close up of PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) connectionClose up of PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) connection

Vacuum tankVacuum tank

Hose routingHose routing

Mounting the magnetic speed sensor

The manual that comes with the kit is not all that great and is a bit confusing on a number of issues. The only way I could get the cruise control to work was to hook up the magnetic speed sensor to the rear wheel. I simply could not make it work using a pick-up from the coil.

I made a small bracket out of steel and mounted it to the swing arm. I chose steel - instead of aluminum - because I did not want a stress related failure that might cause parts to become lodged in the rear wheel or brake.

I epoxed two magnets onto the brake rotor (180° apart). For magnets, I used cheap but strong, circular magnets from Wal Mart. For epoxy, I used Duco brand cement (also available at Wal Mart).

Magnetic speed sensor mountMagnetic speed sensor mount

Duco CementDuco Cement

• Back to top

Cylinder head temperature sensor

• Print this section

Here is the datasheet for the temperature sensor that is installed on the right cylinder head. I acquired this document from a posting by "Guzzi2Go" on the V11 Lemans forum.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Dipstick o-ring cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the o-ring for the dipstick (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.

• Back to top

ECU identification

• Print this section

There have been two ECU (Electronic Control Units) used on the Quota 1100 ES. The early version was replaced (or supposed to have been replaced) on all models. I believe the first version had a nasty flat spot between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. How can you determine which version you have?

1. Remove the left side cover.
2. Look for a finned aluminum module about 4" square immediately to the left of the fuses and relays.
3. There should be a sticker on the box that says "Moto Guzzi Quota 1100".
4. The sticker will also list a number. If the number ends in "i", then you have the later ECU. If it does not, then you have the earlier ECU. As an example, the number on my ECU is "3d02gq0i".

• Back to top

ECU programming

• Print this section

Thanks to Guy who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Guy's own words:

I've been talking to Bruno Scola last September and he is able to re-programm the ECU. He puts a blank one in parallel and through this one he is able to alter the existing ECU. You can either ship him your ECU or order a new one. The existing packages listed are for the newer models (griso, breva, norge and 1200S. see also http://www.millepercento.com) but he is able to alter the older ones as well. Best practice would be that Tommaso Ravaglioli send him an email as Bruno only speaks Italian and see what he can do for us.

• Back to top

ECU protection and transil diode installation

• Print this section

I've been learning about how to protect the expensive ECU from voltage spikes. Apparently, the voltage regulator requires a battery with some 'minimal' level of charge for it to regulate the voltage properly. If a battery falls below this 'minimal' level, it is possible for a voltage spike to be sent through the electrical system and fry the ECU.

When can this happen? My understanding is this most likely to occur when you experience a dead battery and the bike is either push started or jump started. This has happened to Centauro owners and I believe other Guzzi models, too. I have not heard of a problem with the Quotas.

Even though I've heard of no problems with the Quotas, I decided to install the recommended protection - a "transil diode". It's inexpensive and easy to do. Anyone who is interested can learn about the procedure at this website: http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/english.html.

The required "transil diode" can be difficult to find. They are not available at Radio Shack and even my local electronics hobby shop had never heard of them. Here is a place from which you can mail order the correct part: Newark InOne (part number 28H8208 or 5KP15A/1).

As for installation, here is what I did (this information supplements the information provided at the website above):

1. Remove the left side panel, right side panel, and seat.
2. Disconnect the battery (negative first, then positive).
3. Remove the two Allen-head screws that secure the fuse box to the steel panel.
4. Remove fuse number 2 (it is the second fuse from the left).
5. At the back of the fuse box, identify the two green/white wires that connect to fuse number 2 [these are the wires that provide power to the ECU].
6. The green/white wires are connected to the fuse box with a female spade connector with a black plastic jacket. If you are careful, you will be able to unplug this connector from the fuse block. Carefully work it back and forth to remove it being watchful that you are not pulling the fuse contact out.
7. Now, it is a simple matter to create a new splice from the fuse box to the green/white wire AND the transil diode. The "ground" end of the transil diode can be easily attached to one of the panel mounting screws (since the panel itself is grounded). I chose the fuse block mounting bolt.
8. Put everything back together and you are done.

Following the existing instructions, I initially reduced the amperage rating of the fuse from 15 to 5. The bike would start and idle, but die if I gave it any gas. It seems to run fine now that I've increased the fuse to 10 amps.

• Back to top

Fairing replacement: installing a 1000 fairing on an 1100

• Print this section

My frustration reached a boiling point with regard to the light output from the headlight on the Quota 1100. Anyone who has navigated unfamiliar backroads in the middle of the night using only the Quota's headlight would use the word "anemic" as a compliment.

But what to do? I first thought about adding driving lights. But, I really didn't want the worry about the alternator being able to handle the extra electrical current draw of the headlight and two driving lights.

So, I decided that I would replace the headlight with one that would fit and have better output. I stumbled across a headlight from a 1992-96 Yamaha XJ600 Seca II on ebay for USD $14.99 delivered. Once it arrived, I made a few adapters and bolted it right on. It didn't quite fit the 1100 fairing, though, and I was reluctant to start chopping up a fairing whose replacement cost from Moto Guzzi would be close to USD $500.00. The light output was so much better, though, that I ran the Quota without the front fairing.

I'd known the the front fairing from a Quota 1000 would bolt right on to a Quota 1100...and provide me with many more options for headlights with its dual 5" round headlight holes. But since Moto Guzzi didn't import any Quota 1000 models to the United States, spares would be difficult to find and I assumed the price of a new Quota 1000 fairing would be close to the cost of a new Quota 1100 fairing.

Out of the blue, though, a European contributor on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota new group (Zupi from Slovenia) stated that he had picked up an unpainted Quota 1000 fairing from Marc at Teo Lamers for 25 Euro. I couldn't believe it was that inexpensive!

Several news group contributors expressed interest in the fairing and I soon had a group order placed with Teo Lamers. A few weeks later the package arrived and I distributed the fairings nationwide.

The fairing truely is "bolt-on" ready and takes only a few minutes to swap out with the old fairing.

Unfortunately, though, Teo Lamers didn't have any Quota 1000 headlights, so we were on our own for that. On a whim, I purchased a headlight from a 1993 Yamaha FZR600 on ebay for USD $19.99 delivered. Surprisingly, it fits quite nicely with a few key modifications and some special brackets. With just one bulb (55/60 watt), I am very impressed with the output of the FZR headlight. It is much better than the stop-gap Seca II headlight I had been running and quantum leaps forward from the stock Quota headlight. For the time being, I am running two H4 bulbs in the headlight, but I only have one hooked up. The light output is more than sufficient, doesn't eat up a lot of electricity, and gives me a "spare" bulb in case of failures. Eventually, after I install a voltmeter, I will implement a switchable circuit that will allow me to operate both bulbs simultaneously - depending on engine speeds, etc.

Follow-up: I'm now running both headlights all the time and my battery/charging system are having no difficulty keeping up. I installed a voltmeter to keep track of the state of the battery - but my experience has been that I can safely ignore it most of the time. If I were to let the bike idle for long periods of time or really lug it, I suppose I could run down the battery. But I don't plan on doing either of those activities...and the light output is so much better! At normal engine speeds (3000 RPM on up) I am easily charging at over 14 volts.

Drawing of bracket

Note on printing this PDF file: When printing this PDF file, be absolutely sure that "Page scaling" is set to "None". If you don't do this, your print will not be of the proper size.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Photos

Front view of headlightFront view of headlight

Rear view of headlight, note cut-outs to clear bottom mounting bracketRear view of headlight, note cut-outs to clear bottom mounting bracket

Wiring adapter, just plug in and goWiring adapter, just plug in and go

View of headlight mountedView of headlight mounted

Top left headlight mountTop left headlight mount

Top right headlight mountTop right headlight mount

Bottom left headlight mountBottom left headlight mount

Bottom left headlight mountBottom left headlight mount

Bottom right headlight mountBottom right headlight mount

Bottom right headlight mountBottom right headlight mount

Front view of fairing and headlightFront view of fairing and headlight

Close up view of how the headlight fits in the fairingClose up view of how the headlight fits in the fairing

Painted fairing and headlightPainted fairing and headlight

• Back to top

Fork spring replacement

• Print this section

Progressive Suspension replacement fork springs

I replaced my stock Quota fork springs with the often recommended Progressive Suspension 11-1141 springs. I also switched to 10W fork oil. Wow, what a difference! I never really thought I had a problem with the stock springs, but I like the Progressive Suspension springs much better (glad I ordered them on a whim!). The front-end dive upon braking is greatly reduced and the Quota corners much better.

Here is the (very easy) replacement procedure:

• Jack up the motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground.
• Remove the front wheel (this step isn't completely necessary, but it keeps the oil from getting all over the front wheel).
• Drain the existing fork oil. Be sure to put a large drain pan under forks as the fluid will come out in an arc due to the position of the drain plugs on the front of the forks.
• Remove the large cap nuts from the top of the triple tree.
• Remove the preload spacers and withdraw the springs. Notice that the Guzzi springs are installed with the close wound portion to the bottom.
• Slide the new springs in. Note that the Progressive Suspension springs are to be installed with the close wound portion to the top.
• Put the drain plugs back in and fill with fork oil. I went with the Guzzi recommended volume, but switched to 10 weight.
• Adjust preload to your liking. I found that the stock black plastic preload spacer (45 mm in length) plus the addition of one standard 1/2" washer (has a thickness of .1") worked very well for me.

I purchased these springs from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse.

The following tips came from Paul Bonneau:

• Unlike what Greg says, I did not take the wheel off. Instead I put plastic on the wheel and cooked up some cardboard box thing to catch the oil spurts. And still got some on the brake rotor and tire. After changing the oil I finally figured out how I *should* have done the job. That is, just tape a plastic bag around the fork leg, like a sock on a foot. Bottom of the "sock" hangs down into the oil pan. Reach up inside to remove the screw, and then pump away. Should all go into the pan. Next time...
• I taped up the jaws on my big crescent wrench before applying it to those tube nuts. "With age comes wisdom", or in my case, lots of experience dinging up large nuts. I avoided it this time.
• I measured to the top of the stock spring (with the spacer out), then did the same with the new spring in. It was .71 inch shorter. Since I wanted to lower the front end anyway, I used only the stock spacer. By measuring the screw cap length I determined that that would give me exactly 0 preload (with fork at full extension everything would be touching but the spring would have no compression). I assumed that, given roughly equal spring rates from stock, I would lower the front end .7 inches, and that's exactly what it did. Another big plus for me. I realize this gets me .7 inches further into the available travel.
• Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid.
• Well, there actually is one drawback. What with the preload I have removed from front and rear, the kickstand is getting iffy and the centerstand is a bear to use. I will look at shortening these. Again, well worth it since I can now reasonably get my feet on the ground. I knew I would have to deal with them some day.

Sonic Springs replacement fork springs

Sonic Springs has two replacement springs, each with a different "straight-rate" compression. The "kg/mm" values simply indicate the weight (force) necessary to compress the springs a given distance. The folks at Sonic Springs are very helpful and started carrying "Quota specific" springs just because one Quota rider was interested. Be sure to give them a call if you don't know exactly what you want.

• 0.95 kg/mm, part number 60S-095
• 1.00 kg/mm, part number 60S-100

• Back to top

Front main seal cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the front main seal (MG# 90402840) is 28 mm ID x 38 mm OD x 7 mm Thick. A wave-style lip is best.

• Back to top

Fuel filter replacement

• Print this section

Here are numerous alternative fuel filters.

• Napa Gold: 3023
• Purolator: F43178
• ACDelco: GF600
• Fram: G4777
• Beck/Arnley: 0430840
• Wix: 33023

This fuel filter is used by the following vehicles.

Infiniti

• 1991 - 1996 G20
• 1990 - 2001 Q45
• 1996 - 2000 I30
• 2003 Q45
• 1990 - 1992 M30
• 1997 - 2003 QX4

Isuzu

• 1989 - 1994 Amigo
• 1991 - 1993 Rodeo
• 1988 - 1993 Pickup
• 1988 - 1991 Trooper

Mercury

• 1999 - 2002 Villager

Nissan

• 1995 - 1998 200SX
• 1991 - 1993 NX
• 1989 - 1998 240SX
• 1996 - 2004 Pathfinder
• 1984 - 1990 300ZX
• 1983 Pulsar NX
• 1985 - 1986 720 Pickup
• 1987 - 1990 Pulsar NX
• 1997 Altima
• 1999 - 2002 Quest
• 1990 Axxess
• 1987 - 1999 Sentra
• 1986 D21 Pickup
• 1984 - 1989 Stanza
• 1998 - 2005 Frontier
• 2000 - 2004 Xterra
• 1985 - 1999 Maxima

• Back to top

Fuel pump cross-reference

• Print this section

The fuel pump used on the Quota has the following characteristics:

• Fitting Size: 0.315
• Fitting Type: Shouldered
• Gallons Per Hour: 26-46
• Pressure Rating: 43.5

Here are some alternative pumps that will work:

• MG# 29107261
• Beck/Arnley 1520745
• Beck/Arnley 1528003
• Bosch 61-448
• Bosch 61-470
• Carter P72018
• Master Electric E7334

These fuel pumps were also used on the 1987 BMW 325 L6 2.7 Liter FI - M20 O.H.C.- SOHC (and other BMW vehicles of that vintage).

• Back to top

Fuel tank repair

• Print this section

Thanks to Chuck in Indiana for posting this fix on the Wild Guzzi forum when his tank started leaking around the mounting holes, etc.

I remember Pat Hayes saying this was good stuff a long time ago. I tried several fixes that didn't work. Mark at MG Classics told me he didn't know of any liner material that would stick to a plastic tank. In desperation, I called their (Caswell's) tech support, and he said if it wasn't polypropylene, it would work. The Quota tank already has a liner of some sort, so I *assumed* it wasn't polypropylene, and ordered a kit.

This stuff's the berries. I prepped the tank exactly like they said, and applied it according to the instructions. It sticks like crazy and remains flexible. Ever price a Quota tank? I'm a happy camper.

Phenol Novolac Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer

• Back to top

Hand guards - Triumph Tiger

• Print this section

Thanks to John Wells for providing the following photos and information regarding how he mounted Triumph Tiger hand guards on his Quota.

Front view, wide angle.Front view, wide angle.

Close-up of left guard sculpted for relief around mirror stalk, extra hole drilled inboard of lever pivot bolt to stabilize mount, bolt goes through unused factory hole. Close sculpting of mirror mount cutout helps with stability also. Slight trimming of rubber cable boots is necessary also. Becomes obvious as you progress.Close-up of left guard sculpted for relief around mirror stalk, extra hole drilled inboard of lever pivot bolt to stabilize mount, bolt goes through unused factory hole. Close sculpting of mirror mount cutout helps with stability also. Slight trimming of rubber cable boots is necessary also. Becomes obvious as you progress.

Note nylon spacer (hardware store sourced) and washer between fast idle lever and guard. Don't lose the small steel ball that acts as a check on the lever. Use nylock nuts on the longer pivot bolt as you need to be able to adjust tension on the fast idle lever.Note nylon spacer (hardware store sourced) and washer between fast idle lever and guard. Don't lose the small steel ball that acts as a check on the lever. Use nylock nuts on the longer pivot bolt as you need to be able to adjust tension on the fast idle lever.

Underside of left guard showing two nylock nuts on pivot bolt and stabilizer bolt.Underside of left guard showing two nylock nuts on pivot bolt and stabilizer bolt.

Right guard just needs minor sculpting of master cylinder cutout. Close fit means no wobble. Also create a cutout for the brake switch wires. Bolt longer than stock (from the parts bin).Right guard just needs minor sculpting of master cylinder cutout. Close fit means no wobble. Also create a cutout for the brake switch wires. Bolt longer than stock (from the parts bin).

Underside of right guard.Underside of right guard.

Wide angle from rear.Wide angle from rear.

• Back to top

Headlight replacement

• Print this section

Here is the original manufacturer of the headlight: tri.o.m. part number 798.00.10

It is the same headlight that is used on the MZ Skorpion

Alternatively, the European Moto Guzzi V11 Sport models came with an identically shaped headlight that puts out a reported much better light pattern.

• Back to top

Mistral crossover

• Print this section

Thanks to Gene Grefe for this information (in his own words):

I had great success dealing direct with the company Mistral in Italy to get the exhaust crossover for the Quota. I couldn't locate one from a couple of dealers so I researched and came up with factory. They were really great and it didn't take much over a week to get it. Then I had to have my bank electronic transfer money to them. The email address is to mistral and the fellow who I corresponded with is as follows: micheli.r>at<tin.it. The price was 180 euro for the pipe and 50 euro shipping. His name is Micheli Romano and as I stated they were great in informing and getting me the pipe. He also stated they are in process of coming up with a new muffler for Quota also.

• Back to top

Moto-Sport pannier leaks

• Print this section

First off, if your Moto-Sport panniers start leaking, contact Moto-Sport directly...they are very helpful and can give you advice specific to your panniers. Apparently, Moto-Sport has made improvements to the design since my panniers were purchased.

My 37 liter "Bavaria" panniers were purchased by the previous owner in April of 2002. When I purchased the bike, the panniers leaked water. Here are the suggestions that Ed at Moto-Sport gave me:

• Remove the star washers from underneath the bolts that screw into the pucks that hold the pannier onto the mounting brackets.
• Remove each screw (one at a time is easiest) that holds the handles onto the lid. Spread some clear silicon around the threads and head and reattached the screw.
• Remove the orange seal from the lip of each lid. Clean the groove thoroughly. Run a bead of clear silicon into the groove so that it is nearly level. Use your finger so that it is slightly indented. Let the silicon sit for and hour or two until the silicon starts to set up and feels dry to the touch. Now, place the lid on the pannier and lock it down. Leave it sit overnight or until the silicon is permanently set.

• Back to top

Oil pressure gauge

• Print this section

After adding an oil pressure gauge to my Ambassador, I decided to do the same with my Quota. Read about my set up on my Ambassador (same as for the Quota).

The aluminum plate to which I've attached the oil pressure gauge, volt meter, and 12 volt power outlet is covered with a carbon fiber sticker. The plate is secured using the forward-most pair of handlebar clamp bolts. I used longer bolts and spacers (painted steel pipe) to achieve the proper clearance needed while still maintaining good torque on the clamp bolts.

• Back to top

Owner's manual

• Print this section

Aprilia provides access to a free PDF version of the original owner's manual that can be downloaded online (http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/ or http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/public/lum/index.asp). However, I find that manual difficult to use due to the fact that it is in four languages. Therefore, I created the owner's manual below that is in English only.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Paint codes

• Print this section

Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for this information.

Quota 1000 paint codes

Quota 1100 paint codes

• Back to top

Quick maintenance data

• Print this section

• Back to top

Rear drive bearing cross-references

• Print this section

There are three different types of bearings that are used in the rear drive. Here are their raw sizes and cross reference numbers:

• A large ball bearing (ID: 70 mm, OD: 110 mm, Width: 13 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92201070
  • SKF 16014
  • FAG 16014
  • RIV ELn 70
  • STEYR 16014
• A needle bearing (ID: 40 mm, OD: 55 mm, Width: 17 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92254340
  • FAG NAO 40 x 55 x 17
  • FAG (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
  • INA NAO 40 x 55 x 17
  • SKF (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
  • SKF (Eur.) NAO 40 x 55 x 17
• Two tapered roller bearings (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 19.25 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all REAR DISC BRAKE Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the T3 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92249227
  • FAG 32205A
  • SKF 32205A
  • SNR 32205
  • Timkin 32205-B

• Back to top

Rear main seal cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the rear main seal (MG# 90405367) is 53 mm ID x 68 mm OD x 10 mm Width. Viton seals with serrated lips are recommended.

• Back to top

Seat latch - spring loaded

• Print this section

Option A

Thanks to Zupi for sending me these photos in a private email.

Option B

I've wanted to be able to remove the seat without removing the side panels. I know that some have mounted a remote latching system, I chose a different approach.

I purchased the following:

• McMaster-Carr item number 85015A71 - Stainless Steel Metric Ball-Nose Plunger W/Locking Element, M8 Thrd, 9-13.5 lb End Force; Quantity: 2
• McMaster-Carr item number 3382A15 - Ball-Nose & Round-Nose Spring Plunger Wrench for 5/16"-18 and M8 Thread Size; Quantity: 1

Installation was simple:

1. Remove side covers.
2. Remove the two bolts that secure the seat to the frame.
3. Replace bolts with the ball nose plungers.
4. Adjust ball nose plungers to protrude the appropriate amount.

The end result for me a seat that seems to stay in place very well while still affording easy removal. I'm sure I could have done without the tool (3382A15), but it made life a lot easier and didn't require me to file a screwdriver to fit.

Also, I'm not sure that the plunging part of the ball nose plunger does much at all other than to provide a smooth, rounded surface for the seat securing brackets to flex around. I think the same effect could be accomplished by grinding down the end of a 8mm bolt so that it has a nice, rounded end. This can be quickly accomplished with a bench grinder and a hand drill. Chuck the bolt in the hand drill and run the hand drill while grinding...makes a nice rounded profile. And, since the threaded holes go all the way through the mounting tabs, a person could simply screw them through from the backside.

• Back to top

Spare parts catalogs

• Print this section

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Speedometer angle converter

• Print this section

Replacement - Speedometer angle converter

Thanks to Dovie who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Dovie's own words:

Regarding the angle converter for the speedo...it can be had from Cosmopolitan Motors in Hatboro, PA or Domiracer. When I bought my Quota the miter box or angle thing or whatever was trashed, but I had a spare in store as the Benelli 4 and 6 cylinder bikes used the very same part (Mine was the Sei 900) so try those 2 outlets for this part. I bet you it will be in stock and cheaper than Moto Guzzi.

Repair - Speedometer angle converter

Thanks to Erling Pedersen who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Erling's own words:

(Here is a) photo of a small and effective repair of the angular drive. It is one of those things that cracks when you forget to grease the drive and the cable, or when the cable is stressed. Or maybe it is just a bad design. I have repaired it on the Le Mans II some twenty years ago, (Did I say twenty years? It seems like yesterday.) The brass thing can be changed with a hoseclamp, it works but does not look the same.

• Back to top

Steering head bearing cross reference

• Print this section

Two (2) tapered roller bearings are required (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 16.25 mm)

• Moto Guzzi MG# 92249225
• Maryland Metric item no. 30205
• FAG 30205A
• RIV 01/02/7205
• SKF 30205A
• SNR 30205
• STEYR 30205

• Back to top

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

• Print this section

Mike Haven of MPH Cycles has a couple of articles about tuning the EFI and the Quota.

• Article 1
• Article 2

I messed with my TPS one time...essentially just loosened the screw and moved it up and down to different millivolt values - very touchy. I found the original position worked best and left it alone. If memory serves, that was 395 millivolts or there about. It just didn't want to idle at any other position.

To measure the millivolt values, connect your volt meter to the middle pin and one outside pin of the connector. If you read 5 volts or something like that, switch your connections around to the other outside pin so that you read in millivolts. This process is made much easier by wiring in pig tails so that your readings can be easily made.

I set my TPS to around 395 millivolts with the ignition ON but the engine NOT running. It does make a difference. It is a very good idea to check your millivolt reading BEFORE adjusting the TPS. Write the value down so you can always get back to your starting point.

Cross-reference

The TPS used on the Quota is a Weber PF10 (PF 10). This is different from the TPS used on the other late model Guzzis, which is a Weber PF3C (PF 3C) . The common replacement is to use Harley Davidson part number 27271-95. The Harley part number corresponds to a Weber PF4C (PF 4C). Magneti Marelli distributes Weber products. I do not know if the PF3C or PF4C will replace the PF10. If anyone has actually used either part on a Quota, please let me know.

• Back to top

Timing chain and tensioner

• Print this section

At around 38,000 miles, I started hearing the timing chain rattling about inside the timing chest. It didn't rattle all the time, but seemed to be most prominent when decelerating from higher RPMs. I decided it was time to put in a new tensioner. Instead of using the stock tensioner from Guzzi, I opted for the common (and popular) bow-type tensioner. It is less expensive and places more pressure on the chain, too. Also, I decided that if I was going that far into the timing chest, that I might as well replace the timing chain. Replacement of the gasket, front main seal, and o-ring were givens.

Replacement is very straightforward and simple. But, do keep the following in mind.

• The rotor for the alternator simply slides off the front of the crankshaft. It is not pressed on. Very easy!
• In addition to standard mechanic tools, a very deep 32 mm socket is needed to remove the nut securing the crankshaft gear to the crankshaft. A normal deep-well socket is not long enough. Instead, purchase 2 deep well sockets, cut the end off of one and weld it on to the end of the other. It is probably best to purchase standard sockets (not impact sockets) as the wall thickness of the impact socket will have to be turned down to fit the available space inside the crankshaft gear.
• Before removing the three gears, be sure to align the mark on the camshaft gear with the mark on the crankshaft gear by rotating the crankshaft (easier if both spark plugs are removed). Once aligned, do NOT rotate either the crankshaft or the camshaft. If you do, you'll mess up the timing. When replacing the gears, make sure to keep the marks aligned. I found it easiest to keep the chain and gears together as I removed them. Then, I laid them flat on a rag and carefully replaced the chain...keeping my gears in line. This really isn't very difficult if a little care is taken.
• The bow-type tensioner is secured differently than the stock tensioner...utilizing the two existing bolts that already secure the front main bearing to the block. When the stock tensioner is removed, however, you'll need to replace one of the bolts with a shorter one. I just matched up the length with another bolt I had in my stash.
• Both the crankshaft securing nut and the camshaft securing nut require about 111 foot pounds of torque. So make sure you have a torque wrench sufficient to the task.
• The nut securing the rotor of the alternator to the crankshaft does not require very much torque. All it does is keep the rotor secured to the crankshaft. 25 - 30 foot pounds is plenty (I've not seen an official torque specification from Guzzi for that nut).
• Do apply anti-seize to the threads of the three bolts that secure the stator to the front of the timing chest AND the four bolts that secure the plastic alternator cover. These have a tendency to corrode and anti-seize is cheap insurance.
• In retrospect, my timing chain did not require replacement and I could have gotten away with simply replacing the tensioner. But, I didn't want the bike to be down very long and ordered all the parts beforehand.
• This was my first timing doing the job. It took me 3 hours, 15 minutes - start to finish.

• Back to top

Tire pressure conversion chart (BAR to PSI)

• Print this section

The owner's manual states that the front wheel should be inflated to 2.3 BAR and that the rear wheel should be inflated to 2.5 BAR with one rider and 2.9 BAR with two riders. When running at continuous maximum speed, the pressure in the front wheel should be increased by 0.2 BAR.

But what is a BAR? To start with, BAR is a word in and of itself (PSI is an acronym for pounds per square inch). In short, 1 BAR is equal to about 14.5 PSI (14.5037738 to be more precise). Here is a conversion chart:

• Back to top

Tires

• Print this section

• Avon:
  • Front: AM43 Distanzia 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: AM44 Distanzia 65 H [130/80-17]
• Bridgestone:
  • Front: TW41F BW TT 51 S [90/90-21]
  • Rear: TW22R BW TT 65 S [130/80-17]
  • Front: Battlax BT45 F BW TL 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Battlax BT45 R BW TL 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,426 miles out of the rear tire)
• Continental:
  • Front: TKC 80 [90/90-21]
  • Rear: TKC 80 [130/80-17]
  • Front: ContiEscape 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: ContiEscape 65 H [130/80-17] (I am currently running this rear tire)
• Dunlop:
  • Front: D607 Front 54 H [90/90-21] (I am still running the front tire; 16,000 miles and counting)
  • Rear: D607 Rear 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,500 miles out of the rear tire)
• Maxxis:
  • Front: Promaxx M6102 [3.00-21 51H/TL]
  • Rear: V1 M6002 [130/80-17 65V/TL]
• Metzeler:
  • Front: Tourance Front 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Tourance Steel-Radial 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 7,500 miles out of the rear tire)
• Michelin:
  • Front: Anakee H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Anakee H [130/80-17] (I got 6,418 miles out of the rear tire)
• Pirelli:
  • Front: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 65 H [130/80-17]

• Back to top

Tool box

• Print this section

Thanks to Zupi for sending me these photos in a private email.

• Back to top

Torque specifications

• Print this section

These specifications are derived from the Quota Workshop Manual. I generally prefer the torque values Moto Guzzi specified for the V7 Sport, T, and T3 models. Use at your own risk.

• Back to top

Turn signal replacements

• Print this section

I finally went down to my local Harley Davidson/Buell dealership and purchased the often recommended turn signals at a greatly reduced price (USD $5.20 for each complete turn signal). The signals are used on the 2005 Buell Lighting, and perhaps other models. They are identical in all respects save for the diameter of the stud that mounts to the bike (they are made by the same Italian manufacturer). The Buell's use a smaller diameter stud than the Quotas. I've not tried, but it looks like you can probably even swap the stalks (with studs) from the Quota turn signals to the Buell turn signals.

A drain hole located at the bottom of each turn signal necessitates two different part numbers:

• Left front and right rear - Y0503.02A8
• Right front and left rear - Y0504.02A8

• Back to top

U-joint carrier bearing cross-references

• Print this section

The physical dimensions of the sealed carrier bearing (MG# 92204230) are as follows:

• ID: 30 mm
• OD: 62 mm
• Width: 16 mm

The original carrier bearing in my Quota was a NSK 6206 DU. This cross-references with many other bearings, including:

• FAF 206PP
• FAG 6206.2RS
• FED 1206RR
• MRC 206-SZZ
• ND Z99506
• New Departure Z99506
• NH 206KK
• RIV ALN 30
• SKF 6206-2RS
• STEYR 6206.2RS

• Back to top

Vibration damping mounts

• Print this section

Moto Guzzi uses vibration damping mounts at several locations on the Quota...most notable are the two at the top dash/fairing mounting points and the three that secure the fuse panel/computer to the left rear of the cycle. There are actually two different styles. The two mounts that are used at the dash have a 6 mm stud on one end and a 6 mm nut/threaded insert on the other end. The three mounts that are used to hold the fuse panel on have 6 mm studs at each end.

Nearly all of my rubber mounts have broke (the steel plates that sandwich the rubber detach from the rubber).

Although replacements are readily available through Moto Guzzi, I chose to purchase less expensive (and hopefully stronger) ones through McMaster-Carr.

• For the dash, I chose item number 4403K62. These are almost identical to the originals in size. The stud is a little shorter on these, but it in no way effects how they are mounted to the dash.
• For the fuse panel, I chose item number 4403K75. These mounts have a larger diameter than the originals and are a little bit longer, but fit nicely and don't interfere with the side cover.

Each of these mounts has properties that are fully described by McMaster-Carr, so I won't go into them here. However, if these mounts fail (like my original ones did), I'll be sure to try mounts with different properties (specifically with respect to sheer strength).

• Back to top

Voltage regulator replacement

• Print this section

ElectroSport Industries (formerly Electrex) has replacement regulators for the Quota alternators (and other Moto Guzzi models as well). They are reportedly cheaper and better than the original. The part number is ESR510 (old part number RR51).

Euro MotoElectrics EnDuraLast part numbers EDL-450VoltRect or EDLGUZ-VoltRect.

Thanks to Russ Marooney for providing the following photos and information regarding how he replaced the stock voltage regulator with an inexpensive and more powerful unit designed for Harley Davidson motorcycles. In Russ' own words:

Here is the info on the Rectifier/ regulator. Brand is Custom Chrome. PN# 25-353 (25353). This is a 32 Amp unit with a 1 year warr. I paid $69.99. Super easy to install. Clip off their plug . Use yellow but crimp connectors to connect to the two yellow wires from the alternator. The long wire run to the positive terminal of the battery. Tape over the original connectors . You can install a inline fuse if you wish. Only other thing you need to check is the ground. This unit has a case ground. If your ground at the bolt on to the ground is not really good you might want to run a extra ground from the mount bolt to a good solid ground.

Output at the battery after start up will be 14 to 14.5 VDCV . I installed one on Cathy's EV 3 years ago and it is still running strong. One other thing, the R/Rs don't give any warning, work great then gone.

I just got finished installing the after market Harley Regulator. Here are the results.

I had top make a simple bracket out of 1 inch strap metal that you can buy at any hardware store. Just requires drilling 3 holes. I did not have to remove the tank as I wired into the Red wire going to the battery. The other two which go to the indicator light I just taped up and put aside.

Prior to in stalling I took a reading at 4000 RPM. I did not have the PIAA running lights on. To be truthful I did not think of it. I read 13.92 VDC. This is well within the acceptable range of 13.5 to 14.5. This was the max voltage I could get out of it.

After installing I checked again with the same meter. As before the voltage started to climb at about 2500 RPMs , but the max now was 14.45 at 4000 RPM.

This time I turned on the PIAA lights which came with the bike. It is wired in using their harness & relay system. The peak voltage with them on was 14.20 VDC.

You might notice that there are more cooling fins. It also thicker than the stock unit.

• Back to top

Volt meter review (I 4 C Products 'C-Volt')

• Print this section

When deciding to mount dual headlights into a Quota 1000 fairing, I wanted to be able to operate both low beams or both high beams. Doing so would double the headlight electrical requirements and could potentially be more than my charging system could handle. So, I decided to mount a voltage meter to keep track of things.

I wanted a good quality gauge that was water proof and affordable. I found what I was looking for in the "C-Volt" gauge made by I 4 C Products (model number CV100LED).

• The gauge is digital and accurate when checked against my multi meter.
• The brightness at night is not "too" bright...just fine for me.
• In sunshine, I have to shade the numbers with my hand to read them...I wish it had a "super bright" setting for daytime use.
• I have had absolutely no trouble with water infiltration...very nice.
• It comes with a bezel which cleans up the installation well.
• It does draw a small amount of current...enough to drain a motorcycle battery if left on for a month or more without running the bike or charging the battery. So don't leave it "hot" all the time.
• Installation is simple and straightforward...just run wires to the battery terminals. It must be hooked up positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative; but is reverse polarity protected so there is no danger of damage.
• I was concerned about annoyance from the numbers changing all the time with very small changes in voltage. That has not been the case and I do not find it distracting at all.

• Back to top

Wellnuts (well nuts)

• Print this section

Wellnuts are those rubberized mounting nuts that secure the front of the fairing to the fairing sides. They are also used to secure the small lower bug screen to the fairing sides. Moto Guzzi uses 5 mm Wellnuts at all of these connection points.

Many of my Wellnuts have deteriorated and come apart.

While inch-sized Wellnuts are readily available from Ace Hardware or McMaster-Carr, metric sized are extremely difficult to find. I found a source for replacements online at Desmo Parts.

• Back to top

Wheel bearing cross-references

• Print this section

Contributed by Jan Keijzer on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group.

Front wheel

• 17 mm ID x 40 mm OD x 12 mm
  • FAF 203PP
  • FAG 6203.2RS
  • FED 1203RR
  • MRC 203-SZZ
  • ND Z99503
  • New Departure Z99503
  • NH 203KK
  • RIV ALN 17
  • SKF 6203-2RS
  • STEYR 6203.2RS

Rear wheel

• 20 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm
  • FAF 204PP
  • FAG 6204.2RS
  • FED 1204RR
  • MRC 204-SZZ
  • ND Z99504
  • New Departure Z99504
  • NH 204NN
  • RIV ALN 20
  • SKF 6204-2RS
  • STEYR 6204.2RS

• Back to top

Wheel rim size

• Print this section

Front wheel

1.85" x 21"

Rear wheel

2.75" x 17"

• Back to top

Windshield options

• Print this section

The unobtanium option: The windshield pictured below is the "Swanee" type windshield that was made sporadically by somebody a few years ago. The previous owner of my Quota purchased it, so I don't have any contact information. But, that's probably a good thing since I've heard the last few people who sent him money didn't get a shield! It does, however, provide a great deal of protection and I've found it very nice on longer trips. It was also great when I lived in the cooler climate of Minnesota. One drawback, however, is that my handlebars cannot be turned fully side-to-side with the windshield installed. It isn't a problem on the road...but makes it a little frustrating when manuevering it around the shop. Buffeting is still a problem...but is largely alleivated with the use of tank panniers. Fit is okay, but not great. Be sure to install small plastic spacers between the fairing and the windshield.

The Moto Guzzi option: For around $200, you could always consider the Moto Guzzi windshield (made by Parabellum and available directly through them if your dealer can't get it) - but I don't recommend it. I purchased it and tried it for a trip to the Wisconsin rally in 2004. It gave me so much helmet buffeting that I couldn't wait to take it off. Fortunately, Parabellum has a return policy that I was able to take advantage of and I only lost out on the shipping. On the plus side, it fits very nicely. Mike Taylor (a.k.a. guzzimike, rocker59) was able to overcome much of the buffeting by drilling large holes in the lower portion of the parabellum screen. Photos by Mike Taylor.