Moto Guzzi Quota
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Table of contents
A
B
C
- Cam Position Sensor
- Carburetor conversion by Dave Keeling
- Coils
- Crankshaft o-ring cross-reference
- Cruise Control
- Cylinder head temperature sensor
D
E
F
- Fairing replacement: installing a 1000 fairing on an 1100
- Fork spring replacement
- Front Fender
- Front main seal cross-reference
- Fuel filter replacement
- Fuel injectors
- Fuel pump cross-reference
- Fuel tank repair
- Fuses - what each one controls
H
M
O
P
Q
R
- Rear brake disc replacement
- Rear drive bearing cross-references
- Rear main seal cross-reference
- Relays - what each one controls
S
- Seat latch - spring loaded
- Spare parts catalogs
- Speedometer angle converter
- Steering head bearing
- Steering head bearing cross reference
- Swing arm seal cross-references
T
- Tank wings / tank wind deflectors
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Timing chain and tensioner
- Tire pressure conversion chart (BAR to PSI)
- Tires
- Tool box
- Torque specifications
- Transmission bearing cross-references
- Turn signal replacements
U
V
W
Featured sections
Purpose, disclaimer, and other resources
Updated: 2008 Oct 01
Purpose
The purpose of this page and the information it contains is to provide useful or hard-to-find information about Moto Guzzi Quota motorcycles (with specific emphasis on the 2000 model that was imported into the United States). The bulk of the data is information I collected while working on my 2000 Quota.
Entering Wyoming from Utah on Highway 150 - Jun, 2004 on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Disclaimer
I have done my best to present correct and accurate information. However, I do not consider myself an expert in the area of Moto Guzzi motorcycles nor Quota models in particular. If you find this information useful, I'm glad to be of service. If you see something that is incorrect, I'd appreciate it if you would send me a quick email detailing the mistake. If you use any of the information I have provided, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of nor the consequence of using any content on this page.
Other resources
Of course, all of this information can be gleaned from alternative sources. For reading material, get the Moto Guzzi Quota Workshop Manuals and the Moto Guzzi Quota Spare Parts Catalogs. For serious online discussions, try the Guzzi_Quota news group on Yahoo. For parts, I recommend MG Cycle, Moto Guzzi Classics, Moto International, or your local dealer. ebay can also good place to look. If you want to be a member of an excellent motorcycle club, I recommend the Moto Guzzi National Owners Club.
Somewhere in the middle of Nevada along Highway 6 - Jun, 2004 on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Air filter replacement
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:
Stock Moto Guzzi (UFI) Air Filter: MG# 30113600
Dimensions: 1.25" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many later-model Californias, Sport1100, Daytona, Centauro, Quota (some or all?)
Cost: about $10-11
K&N: CG-9002
Dimensions: 1.00" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Same as above, plus some Cagiva (Gran Canyon, etc.)
Cross-reference: Moto Guzzi MG# 30113600; Cagiva 800064754
Cost: about $50.00
K&N: 33-2682
Dimensions: 1.06" H; 8.875" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many FIAT's, 1980's - present
Cross-reference: FIAT 4434868; Mann C2345
Cost: about $35.00
I have ordered the CG-9002 because the dimensions appear to be closest to stock. The 33-2682 is just 1/8" too long, but I imagine it could be made to fit within the airbox.
Brake light switch replacement (front)
Updated: 2008 Apr 18
Thanks to Paul Bonneau, Bert Fox, and Alfred Jorgensen for this information.
If your front brake light switch needs replacing, here are a few sources:
- Your local Moto Guzzi dealer may have it in stock for 5 or 6 bucks.
- Radio Shack item number 275-016, SPDT Switch w/o Roller (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
- Radio Shack item number 275-017, SPDT Switch with 3/4" Roller Lever (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
- Happ Controls (USD $25.00 minimum order) :: Cherry Waterproof Snap Switch part number 95-0863-00 (This should bolt right on)
- Shultz Electronics (USD $5.00 minimum order) :: Waterproof Micro Switch part number DC1 (This should bolt right on)
Brake line protection
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to Roland Schaeffer for providing the following photos and information regarding how he is protecting the front brake lines on his Quota. In Roland's own words:
On your site you wrote:
"Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid."
Here are some pictures of how I solved this problem. I guess that this may cause problems if you do not take off the lower fairing part like I did, for when the fork travels in, the pipes are bent backward, so that they need more clearance than what is given in the original fairing configuration.
Protecting the brake lines on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Photo courtesy of Roland Schaeffer.
Protecting the brake lines on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Photo courtesy of Roland Schaeffer.
Protecting the brake lines on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Photo courtesy of Roland Schaeffer.
Protecting the brake lines on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Photo courtesy of Roland Schaeffer.
Brake pad replacements
Updated: 2009 Apr 01
Here are replacement brake pad references.
Front brake pads
- MG# 30654626 (Thanks to Alan Greenslade for providing these numbers.)
- Brembo 07BB0310 (Thanks to Alan Greenslade for providing these numbers.)
- EBC FA209/2
Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA209 for Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES front brake
Rear brake pads
- MG# 30654625 (Thanks to Alan Greenslade for providing these numbers.)
- Brembo 07BB0410 (Thanks to Alan Greenslade for providing these numbers.)
- EBC FA181 (Thanks to Matthew Ranney for confirming the fitment of these brake pads.)
Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA181 for Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES rear brake
Cam Position Sensor
Updated: 2009 Nov 30
Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:
The Cam Position Sensor is Marelli SEN813. I can find NO cross reference, but it is used, apparently, on some late-model Aprilias. The sensor showed resistance of about 600+ ohms between a couple of the leads when the magnet is excited with iron (I used a pair of pliers), then drops back down when the iron is removed. The other lead measured about 0.4 ohm, and also moved when the magnet was exposed to iron.
Carburetor conversion by Dave Keeling
Updated: 2009 Nov 26
Thanks to Dave Keeling who sent me this information about how he converted is Quota 1100 from Electronic Fuel Injection to a Carburetor. In Dave's own words:
After putting up with the poor running of the Quota engine, due to the simple fuel injection system and reading on the Quota forum that the prototype was developed with a Weber carb, I decided to try it.
I strobed the rotor, removing the various inputs to the ECU, they appeared to have no effect on the advance curve. The only one I couldn't check was the T.P.I. of which I could set later if necessary.
The throttle body was removed and an ex Ford 3L V6 38 DGAS Weber was offered up. The first problem was the auto choke mechanism; it made the carb too wide to fit through the frame rails.
I removed the choke body, but retained the back plate, fitting a cable operated arm to the original linkage. The carb now fitted the manifold.
The next step was to make new throttle and choke cables. I used bicycle rear brake cables cut down as a temporary measure. The choke and throttle linkage now operate from the handlebar controls.
The next step was to jet the carb. One concern was the forward inclination of the carb on the manifold. I considered modifying the manifold, but decided to keep it standard in case the carb conversion failed.
To get around the problem, I raised the float level by 2 mm so that the fuel level at the emulsion tubes was to original spec.
I then ran the bike changing jets as necessary. The biggest problem was the accelerator pump jet was causing too much fuel to be delivered causing a flat spot. I reduced the jet size, but it was still causing a problem, so I removed the linkage and it ran much better.
The next mod was to fit the airbox to the carb. I made a glassfibre box, which was riveted and glued to the airbox after the lower section had been removed. This then bolted to the top of the carb. Now the induction system was complete, it was back to the final setting of the carb.
With the carb set, the electric fuel taps were removed and replaced with manual ones, the pressure regulator was removed and the hole in the tank blanked off, as were the injectors.
All the excess wiring was retained but the plugs were capped and clipped out of the way. The fuel pump and filter were removed and will be replaced by a storage tray.
The bike is now much smoother to ride, it pulls well from 2,500 rpm with no hesitation at 3,500 rpm and revs all the way to the red line in the lower gears. It doesn't pink on overtakes and the fuel consumption seems reasonable, although not checked on a long run.
The final jet sizes for the carb are:
- Fuel level raised 2 mm
- Main jets: 150
- Air correctors: 200
- Idle: 50
- Emulsion tubes: F50 modified
- Accelerator pump removed and blanked off
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Installing a Weber carburetor on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Dave Keeling
Coils
Updated: 2009 Nov 30
Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:
The ignition coils are Marelli BAE 850 AK, and measure 0.7 - 0.8 ohm on primary winding resistance, and 3260 - 3280 ohm on secondary winding resistance. I don't know why the secondary is so much lower than every other coil for which I can find reference, but it is…. It is common on all newer Guzzis, as far as I can tell, and on many Ducatis of the last 10-20 years.
Crankshaft o-ring cross-reference
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The size of the o-ring for the front of the crankshaft (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.
Cruise Control
Updated: 2010 Jul 14
I installed an electronic cruise control on my Quota. It works well, holds the chosen speed for an entire tank of gas, and makes interstate travel much more pleasurable. Here is what I did.
First, I did a little bit of Google research and found some existing information:
I started by purchasing a Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control from Amazon (least expensive place I could find it).
Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES.
Next, I began the task of fitting it to my Quota.
Mounting the control unit
I made a small bracket out of aluminum. The bracket is secured to the handlebar using the existing mirror mount. I cut a hole in the back through which the wires run.
I find the placement convenient. The unit, however, is not waterproof. I need to do some weatherproofing as it will stop working in the rain.
Front view of control unit. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Left view of control unit. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Right view of control unit. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Connecting the cable to the throttle body
Using one of the brackets that came with the kit, I secured the cable housing to one of the bell housing bolts. Then, using the ball chain from the kit and one of the adapters, I connected the cable to the part on the throttle body that rotates with the existing throttle cable. I secured the end of the adapter to the throttle through an existing hole using a small (5 mm, I think) bolt. If memory serves, I did not have to alter the part on the throttle body at all.
Cable routing. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Close up of how the cable is secured to the bell housing. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
View of the cable. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I used a connection similar to the one circled. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES.
Connecting the vacuum hoses
The vacuum hoses are connected to each intake port. Then, they are joined together under the saddle with a "T" connection. From there, I have installed a one-way valve (simple, Positive Crankcase Ventilation or PCV device). The hose then runs to a fitting on my homemade vacuum tank. Finally, a hose connects my homemade vacuum tank to the vacuum operated cable actuator that came with the kit.
At the intake ports, I used a pair of hose adapters from my existing stash of parts.
For the "T" connection, I used one of the "T" connectors that came with the kit.
For the PCV valve, I picked up something cheap and small off the shelf from my local auto parts store.
For the vacuum tank, I simply purchased a short length of 2" plastic pipe and two end caps. After drilling and tapping the holes in the end cap for my brass, 1/8" NPT, barbed vacuum hose connections, I screwed in the brass vacuum hose connections (using teflon tape on the threads) and glued the end caps onto the pipe. I used the largest diameter pipe in the longest length that would fit in the same I had. The goal here is to have the largest vacuum tank possible.
Vacuum hose connection on left side intake manifold. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Vacuum hose connection on right side intake manifold. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Hose routing. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Close up of 'T' connection. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Close up of PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) connection. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Vacuum tank. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Hose routing. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Mounting the magnetic speed sensor
The manual that comes with the kit is not all that great and is a bit confusing on a number of issues. The only way I could get the cruise control to work was to hook up the magnetic speed sensor to the rear wheel. I simply could not make it work using a pick-up from the coil.
I made a small bracket out of steel and mounted it to the swing arm. I chose steel - instead of aluminum - because I did not want a stress related failure that might cause parts to become lodged in the rear wheel or brake.
I epoxied two magnets onto the brake rotor (180° apart). For magnets, I used cheap but strong, circular magnets from Wal Mart. For epoxy, I used Duco brand cement (also available at Wal Mart).
Magnetic speed sensor mount. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Duco Cement. Installing a cruise control on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES.
Follow-up: The cruise control worked perfectly for several years, then one day stopped working. It was an interesting experiment and very useful for interstate travel, but I've not bothered to repair it.
Cylinder head temperature sensor
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Here is the data sheet for the temperature sensor that is installed on the right cylinder head. I acquired this document from a posting by "Guzzi2Go" on the V11 Lemans forum.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 55 KB | 1 page |
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Dipstick o-ring cross-reference
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The size of the o-ring for the dipstick (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.
ECU identification
Updated: 2010 Jun 21
There have been two ECU (Electronic Control Units) used on the Quota 1100 ES. The early version was supposed to be replaced or upgraded on all models. The first version had a nasty flat spot between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. How can you determine which version you have?
- Remove the left side cover.
- Look for a finned aluminum module about 4" square immediately to the left of the fuses and relays.
- There should be a sticker on the box that says "Moto Guzzi Quota 1100".
- The sticker should also list a number. If the number ends in "i" or "01", then you have the later ECU. It is also likely that your ECU has been updated if there is a sticker on top of the original Magneti Marelli sticker, or if your ECU is labeled for an entirely different model. In typical Moto Guzzi fashion, documentation is varied and more than a little haphazard.
Moto Guzzi Quota ECU with an updated sticker. Photo courtesy of Alan Freeland.
ECU programming
Updated: 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to Guy who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Guy's own words:
I've been talking to Bruno Scola last September and he is able to re-program the ECU. He puts a blank one in parallel and through this one he is able to alter the existing ECU. You can either ship him your ECU or order a new one. The existing packages listed are for the newer models (griso, breva, norge and 1200S. see also http://www.millepercento.com) but he is able to alter the older ones as well. Best practice would be that Tommaso Ravaglioli send him an email as Bruno only speaks Italian and see what he can do for us.
ECU protection and transil diode installation
Updated: 2010 Jun 21
I've been learning about how to protect the expensive ECU from voltage spikes. Apparently, the voltage regulator requires a battery with some 'minimal' level of charge for it to regulate the voltage properly. If a battery falls below this 'minimal' level, it is possible for a voltage spike to be sent through the electrical system and fry the ECU.
When can this happen? My understanding is this most likely to occur when you experience a dead battery and the bike is either push started or jump started. This has happened to Centauro owners and I believe other Guzzi models, too. I have not heard of a problem with the Quotas.
Even though I've heard of no problems with the Quotas, I decided to install the recommended protection - a "transil diode". It's inexpensive and easy to do. Anyone who is interested can learn about the procedure at this website: http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/english.html.
The required "transil diode" can be difficult to find. They are not available at Radio Shack and even my local electronics hobby shop had never heard of them. Here is a place from which you can mail order the correct part: Newark InOne (part number 28H8208 or 5KP15A/1).
As for installation, here is what I did (this information supplements the information provided at the website above):
- Remove the left side panel, right side panel, and seat.
- Disconnect the battery (negative first, then positive).
- Remove the two Allen-head screws that secure the fuse box to the steel panel.
- Remove fuse number 2 (it is the second fuse from the left).
- At the back of the fuse box, identify the two green/white wires that connect to fuse number 2 [these are the wires that provide power to the ECU].
- The green/white wires are connected to the fuse box with a female spade connector with a black plastic jacket. If you are careful, you will be able to unplug this connector from the fuse block. Carefully work it back and forth to remove it being watchful that you are not pulling the fuse contact out.
- Now, it is a simple matter to create a new splice from the fuse box to the green/white wire AND the transil diode. The "ground" end of the transil diode can be easily attached to one of the panel mounting screws (since the panel itself is grounded). I chose the fuse block mounting bolt.
- Put everything back together and you are done.
Following the existing instructions, I initially reduced the amperage rating of the fuse from 15 to 5. The bike would start and idle, but die if I gave it any gas. It seems to run fine now that I've increased the fuse to 10 amps.
Follow-up: I've since completely removed the transil diode as I learned that our ECUs are already protected from voltage spikes.
Transil diode installation on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Transil diode installation on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Transil diode installation on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fairing replacement: installing a 1000 fairing on an 1100
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
My frustration reached a boiling point with regard to the light output from the headlight on the Quota 1100. Anyone who has navigated unfamiliar back roads in the middle of the night using only the Quota's headlight would use the word "anemic" as a compliment.
But what to do? I first thought about adding driving lights. But, I really didn't want the worry about the alternator being able to handle the extra electrical current draw of the headlight and two driving lights.
So, I decided that I would replace the headlight with one that would fit and have better output. I stumbled across a headlight from a 1992-96 Yamaha XJ600 Seca II on ebay for USD $14.99 delivered. Once it arrived, I made a few adapters and bolted it right on. It didn't quite fit the 1100 fairing, though, and I was reluctant to start chopping up a fairing whose replacement cost from Moto Guzzi would be close to USD $500.00. The light output was so much better, though, that I ran the Quota without the front fairing.
I'd known the the front fairing from a Quota 1000 would bolt right on to a Quota 1100…and provide me with many more options for headlights with its dual 5" round headlight holes. But since Moto Guzzi didn't import any Quota 1000 models to the United States, spares would be difficult to find and I assumed the price of a new Quota 1000 fairing would be close to the cost of a new Quota 1100 fairing.
Out of the blue, though, a European contributor on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota new group, Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia, stated that he had picked up an unpainted Quota 1000 fairing from Marc at Teo Lamers for 25 Euro. I couldn't believe it was that inexpensive!
Several news group contributors expressed interest in the fairing and I soon had a group order placed with Teo Lamers. A few weeks later the package arrived and I distributed the fairings nationwide.
The fairing truly is "bolt-on" ready and takes only a few minutes to swap out with the old fairing.
Unfortunately, though, Teo Lamers didn't have any Quota 1000 headlights, so we were on our own for that. On a whim, I purchased a headlight from a 1993 Yamaha FZR600 on ebay for USD $19.99 delivered. Surprisingly, it fits quite nicely with a few key modifications and some special brackets. With just one bulb (55/60 watt), I am very impressed with the output of the FZR headlight. It is much better than the stop-gap Seca II headlight I had been running and quantum leaps forward from the stock Quota headlight. For the time being, I am running two H4 bulbs in the headlight, but I only have one hooked up. The light output is more than sufficient, doesn't eat up a lot of electricity, and gives me a "spare" bulb in case of failures. Eventually, after I install a voltmeter, I will implement a switchable circuit that will allow me to operate both bulbs simultaneously - depending on engine speeds, etc.
Follow-up: I'm now running both headlights all the time and my battery/charging system are having no difficulty keeping up. I installed a voltmeter to keep track of the state of the battery - but my experience has been that I can safely ignore it most of the time. If I were to let the bike idle for long periods of time or really lug it, I suppose I could run down the battery. But I don't plan on doing either of those activities…and the light output is so much better! At normal engine speeds (3000 RPM on up) I am easily charging at over 14 volts.
Drawing of bracket
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| 31 KB |
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Photos
Front view of headlight. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Rear view of headlight, note cut-outs to clear bottom mounting bracket. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Wiring adapter, just plug in and go. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
View of headlight mounted. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Top left headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Top right headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Bottom left headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Bottom left headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Bottom right headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Bottom right headlight mount. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Front view of fairing and headlight. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Close up view of how the headlight fits in the fairing. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Painted fairing and headlight. Mounting a Yamaha FZR headlight to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fork spring replacement
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Progressive Suspension replacement fork springs
I replaced my stock Quota fork springs with the often recommended Progressive Suspension 11-1141 springs. I also switched to 10W fork oil. Wow, what a difference! I never really thought I had a problem with the stock springs, but I like the Progressive Suspension springs much better (glad I ordered them on a whim!). The front-end dive upon braking is greatly reduced and the Quota corners much better.
Here is the (very easy) replacement procedure:
- Jack up the motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground.
- Remove the front wheel (this step isn't completely necessary, but it keeps the oil from getting all over the front wheel).
- Drain the existing fork oil. Be sure to put a large drain pan under forks as the fluid will come out in an arc due to the position of the drain plugs on the front of the forks.
- Remove the large cap nuts from the top of the triple tree.
- Remove the preload spacers and withdraw the springs. Notice that the Guzzi springs are installed with the close wound portion to the bottom.
- Slide the new springs in. Note that the Progressive Suspension springs are to be installed with the close wound portion to the top.
- Put the drain plugs back in and fill with fork oil. I went with the Guzzi recommended volume, but switched to 10 weight.
- Adjust preload to your liking. I found that the stock black plastic preload spacer (45 mm in length) plus the addition of one standard 1/2" washer (has a thickness of .1") worked very well for me.
I purchased these springs from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse.
The following tips came from Paul Bonneau:
- Unlike what Greg says, I did not take the wheel off. Instead I put plastic on the wheel and cooked up some cardboard box thing to catch the oil spurts. And still got some on the brake rotor and tire. After changing the oil I finally figured out how I *should* have done the job. That is, just tape a plastic bag around the fork leg, like a sock on a foot. Bottom of the "sock" hangs down into the oil pan. Reach up inside to remove the screw, and then pump away. Should all go into the pan. Next time…
- I taped up the jaws on my big crescent wrench before applying it to those tube nuts. "With age comes wisdom", or in my case, lots of experience dinging up large nuts. I avoided it this time.
- I measured to the top of the stock spring (with the spacer out), then did the same with the new spring in. It was .71 inch shorter. Since I wanted to lower the front end anyway, I used only the stock spacer. By measuring the screw cap length I determined that that would give me exactly 0 preload (with fork at full extension everything would be touching but the spring would have no compression). I assumed that, given roughly equal spring rates from stock, I would lower the front end .7 inches, and that's exactly what it did. Another big plus for me. I realize this gets me .7 inches further into the available travel.
- Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid.
- Well, there actually is one drawback. What with the preload I have removed from front and rear, the kickstand is getting iffy and the center stand is a bear to use. I will look at shortening these. Again, well worth it since I can now reasonably get my feet on the ground. I knew I would have to deal with them some day.
Sonic Springs replacement fork springs
Sonic Springs has two replacement springs, each with a different "straight-rate" compression. The "kg/mm" values simply indicate the weight (force) necessary to compress the springs a given distance. The folks at Sonic Springs are very helpful and started carrying "Quota specific" springs just because one Quota rider was interested. Be sure to give them a call if you don't know exactly what you want.
Front Fender
Updated: 2008 Dec 22
To the best of my knowledge, the front fender used on the Quota 1000 and the Quota 1100 are identical save for minor differences (decals, mud flap, etc). Erling Pederson also informed me that the same front fender was used on the Moto Guzzi SP III and that the front fender on the Moto Guzzi LeMans 4 is close enough to work well, too.
Front main seal cross-reference
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The size of the front main seal (MG# 90402840) is 28 mm ID x 38 mm OD x 7 mm Thick. A wave-style lip is best.
Fuel filter replacement
Updated: 2008 Jul 08
Here are numerous alternative fuel filters.
This fuel filter is used by the following vehicles.
Infiniti
- 1991 - 1996 G20
- 1990 - 2001 Q45
- 1996 - 2000 I30
- 2003 Q45
- 1990 - 1992 M30
- 1997 - 2003 QX4
Isuzu
- 1989 - 1994 Amigo
- 1991 - 1993 Rodeo
- 1988 - 1993 Pickup
- 1988 - 1991 Trooper
Mercury
- 1999 - 2002 Villager
Nissan
- 1995 - 1998 200SX
- 1991 - 1993 NX
- 1989 - 1998 240SX
- 1996 - 2004 Pathfinder
- 1984 - 1990 300ZX
- 1983 Pulsar NX
- 1985 - 1986 720 Pickup
- 1987 - 1990 Pulsar NX
- 1997 Altima
- 1999 - 2002 Quest
- 1990 Axxess
- 1987 - 1999 Sentra
- 1986 D21 Pickup
- 1984 - 1989 Stanza
- 1998 - 2005 Frontier
- 2000 - 2004 Xterra
- 1985 - 1999 Maxima
Fuel injectors
Updated: 2009 Nov 30
Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:
The fuel injectors are Marelli IW031, and should measure around 16.2 ohms (mine measured 17.2 ohms). They are rated as 270cc/minute.
Fuel pump cross-reference
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The fuel pump used on the Quota has the following characteristics:
- Fitting Size: 0.315
- Fitting Type: Shouldered
- Gallons Per Hour: 26-46
- Pressure Rating: 43.5
Here are some alternative pumps that will work:
- MG# 29107261
- Airtex E7334
- Beck/Arnley 1520745
- Beck/Arnley 1528003
- Bosch 61-448
- Bosch 61-470
- Carter P72018
- Master Electric E7334
These fuel pumps were also used on the 1987 BMW 325 L6 2.7 Liter FI - M20 O.H.C.- SOHC (and other BMW vehicles of that vintage).
Fuel tank repair
Updated: 2008 Jul 08
Thanks to Chuck in Indiana for posting this fix on the Wild Guzzi forum when his tank started leaking around the mounting holes, etc.
I remember Pat Hayes saying this was good stuff a long time ago. I tried several fixes that didn't work. Mark at MG Classics told me he didn't know of any liner material that would stick to a plastic tank. In desperation, I called their (Caswell's) tech support, and he said if it wasn't polypropylene, it would work. The Quota tank already has a liner of some sort, so I *assumed* it wasn't polypropylene, and ordered a kit.
This stuff's the berries. I prepped the tank exactly like they said, and applied it according to the instructions. It sticks like crazy and remains flexible. Ever price a Quota tank? I'm a happy camper.
Fuses - what each one controls
Updated: 2010 Jun 22
Fuse positions (numbered from front to back of the motorcycle, or left to right as you are facing them)
- Fuse «1»: fuel pump, coils, electric injectors.
- Fuse «2»: electronic box.
- Fuse «3»: electric cocks.
- Fuse «4»: driving beam, traffic beam, passing light, horns, front lever stop light, rear pedal stop light, starting motor.
- Fuse «5»: tail light, dashboard lights, instruments lighting.
- Fuse «6»: blinkers intermittence
Hand guards - Triumph Tiger
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to John Wells for providing the following photos and information regarding how he mounted Triumph Tiger hand guards on his Quota.
Front view, wide angle. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Close-up of left guard sculpted for relief around mirror stalk, extra hole drilled inboard of lever pivot bolt to stabilize mount, bolt goes through unused factory hole. Close sculpting of mirror mount cutout helps with stability also. Slight trimming of rubber cable boots is necessary also. Becomes obvious as you progress. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Note nylon spacer (hardware store sourced) and washer between fast idle lever and guard. Don't lose the small steel ball that acts as a check on the lever. Use nylock nuts on the longer pivot bolt as you need to be able to adjust tension on the fast idle lever. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Underside of left guard showing two nylock nuts on pivot bolt and stabilizer bolt. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Right guard just needs minor sculpting of master cylinder cutout. Close fit means no wobble. Also create a cutout for the brake switch wires. Bolt longer than stock (from the parts bin). Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Underside of right guard. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Wide angle from rear. Mounting Triumph Tiger hand guards on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of John Wells.
Headlights for the Quota 1100
Updated: 2009 Feb 22
Original headlight
Here is the original manufacturer of the headlight: tri.o.m. part number 798.00.10. It is the same headlight that is used on the MZ Skorpion
Alternative headlight 1 - European Moto Guzzi V11 Sport
The European Moto Guzzi V11 Sport models came with an identically shaped headlight that puts out a reported much better light pattern.
Alternative headlight 2 - 1991 to 1992 Yamaha FZR 600 and 1991 to 1993 Yamaha FZR 1000 headlight
Thanks to Sake and George for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. Sake got this idea from Andy's website and George did some additional research. This headlight is a direct replacement for the Quota 1100 and requires no modification to fit.
- Yamaha part number: 3HH-84320-00-00
- Manufacturer: KOTTO
- Manufacturer product number: 110-31033
- Left upper side marking: 040455
- Right upper side marking: 040456
- And another stamp: E13 nr. 20
This headlight was originally fitted to the following models:
- 1991 to 1992 Yamaha FZR 600
- 1991 to 1993 Yamaha FZR 1000
Yamaha spare parts catalog showing headlight assembly. Part number 3HH-84320-00-00.
Headlight originally fitted to a 1991 - 1992 Yamaha FZR 600 or 1991 - 1993 Yamaha FZR 1000, fits the Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES fairing perfectly.
Mistral crossover
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to Gene Grefe for this information (in his own words):
I had great success dealing direct with the company Mistral in Italy to get the exhaust crossover for the Quota. I couldn't locate one from a couple of dealers so I researched and came up with factory. They were really great and it didn't take much over a week to get it. Then I had to have my bank electronic transfer money to them. The email address is to mistral and the fellow who I corresponded with is as follows: micheli.r>at<tin.it. The price was 180 euro for the pipe and 50 euro shipping. His name is Micheli Romano and as I stated they were great in informing and getting me the pipe. He also stated they are in process of coming up with a new muffler for Quota also.
Moto-Sport pannier leaks
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
First off, if your Moto-Sport panniers start leaking, contact Moto-Sport directly…they are very helpful and can give you advice specific to your panniers. Apparently, Moto-Sport has made improvements to the design since my panniers were purchased.
My 37 liter "Bavaria" panniers were purchased by the previous owner in April of 2002. When I purchased the bike, the panniers leaked water. Here are the suggestions that Ed at Moto-Sport gave me:
- Remove the star washers from underneath the bolts that screw into the pucks that hold the pannier onto the mounting brackets.
- Remove each screw (one at a time is easiest) that holds the handles onto the lid. Spread some clear silicon around the threads and head and reattached the screw.
- Remove the orange seal from the lip of each lid. Clean the groove thoroughly. Run a bead of clear silicon into the groove so that it is nearly level. Use your finger so that it is slightly indented. Let the silicon sit for and hour or two until the silicon starts to set up and feels dry to the touch. Now, place the lid on the pannier and lock it down. Leave it sit overnight or until the silicon is permanently set.
Oil pressure gauge
Updated: 2009 May 24
Gregory Bender's gauge
After adding an oil pressure gauge to my Ambassador, I decided to do the same with my Quota. Read about my set up on my Ambassador (same as for the Quota).
The aluminum plate to which I've attached the oil pressure gauge, volt meter, and 12 volt power outlet is covered with a carbon fiber sticker. The plate is secured using the forward-most pair of handlebar clamp bolts. I used longer bolts and spacers (painted steel pipe) to achieve the proper clearance needed while still maintaining good torque on the clamp bolts.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Randy Peterson's gauge
Randy sent me some photos of his gauges and the special manifold he made. Neat stuff!
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Randy Peterson.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Randy Peterson.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Randy Peterson.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Randy Peterson.
An oil pressure gauge fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Randy Peterson.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 100 KB | 1 page |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Owner's manuals
Updated: 2009 Dec 04
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 774 KB | 48 pages |
| 1,025 KB | 142 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Paint codes
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for this information.
Quota 1000 paint codes
| Colore (Italiano) | Color (English) | Moto Guzzi Code | Lechler Code |
|---|---|---|---|
| blu | blue | 227 | 65206 |
| amarato | amaretto | 151 | 65207 |
| rosso | red | 107 | 65202 |
| nero | black | 532 | 90323 |
| grigio | gray | 457 | - |
Quota 1100 paint codes
| Colore (Italiano) | Color (English) | Moto Guzzi Code | Lechler Code |
|---|---|---|---|
| sabbia perla | sand pearl | 39 | - |
| blu petrolio | blue oil | 234 | - |
| marrone bisanzio | brown bisanzio | 350 | - |
| giallo sole | yellow sun | 47 | 96565 |
| nero | black | 532 | 90323 |
Quick maintenance data
Updated: 2008 Apr 15
| Spark plug type & gap | NGK BPR6ES; .7 mm / 0.028 inches. |
|---|---|
| Engine oil |
3 liters (3.170 quarts) of 20W/50 motor oil. Note: Many people in countries that sell oil in quart containers simply use 3 quarts of oil. The lack of a little extra oil makes no appreciable difference in performance or longevity. |
| Transmission oil | 0.75 liters (0.793 quarts or 25.4 ounces) of 80W/90 gear oil. |
| Rear drive box oil |
0.230 liters (0.243 quarts or 7.8 ounces) of 80W/90 gear oil. 0.020 liters (0.021 quarts or 0.7 ounces) of Molybdenum. |
| Fork oil | 0.565 liters (0.597 quarts or 19.1 ounces) of 7.5W fork oil (per tube). |
| Brake fluid | DOT 4 |
| Intake valve clearance | .10 mm / 0.0039 inches. |
| Exhaust valve clearance | .15 mm / 0.0059 inches. |
| Front tire size | 90/90-21 54H |
| Rear tire size | 130/80-R17 65H |
| Fuses | All fuses are 15 amp, spade type, 6 total. |
| Maintenance intervals | Everyone has their own opinion based on their personal experience and riding characteristics. I follow the Moto Guzzi guidelines and change the engine, transmission, and drive box oil every 6,000 miles. I also change the spark plugs and check and set the valves every 6,000 miles. I change the fork oil and brake fluid yearly. |
Rear brake disc replacement
Updated: 2008 Aug 21
Thanks to Nick Devinck who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Nick's own words:
I just purchased a rear disc and its cost is 250 euros. It is made by BRAKING and knowing that now I am sure it should be possible to pay less purchasing directly from an accessory store to avoid Guzzi royalty. Maybe it will end up to be the same but worth trying anyway. The reference stamped on the disc is MGO 3RL.
Rear drive bearing cross-references
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
There are three different types of bearings that are used in the rear drive. Here are their raw sizes and cross reference numbers:
- A large ball bearing (ID: 70 mm, OD: 110 mm, Width: 13 mm)
This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.- Moto Guzzi MG# 92201070
- SKF 16014
- FAG 16014
- RIV ELn 70
- STEYR 16014
- A needle bearing (ID: 40 mm, OD: 55 mm, Width: 17 mm)
This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.- Moto Guzzi MG# 92254340
- FAG NAO 40 x 55 x 17
- FAG (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
- INA NAO 40 x 55 x 17
- SKF (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
- SKF (Eur.) NAO 40 x 55 x 17
- Two tapered roller bearings (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 19.25 mm)
This is the same bearing that has been used in all REAR DISC BRAKE Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the T3 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.- Moto Guzzi MG# 92249227
- FAG 32205A
- SKF 32205A
- SNR 32205
- Timkin 32205-B
Rear main seal cross-reference
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The size of the rear main seal (MG# 90405367) is 53 mm ID x 68 mm OD x 10 mm Width. Viton seals with serrated lips are recommended.
Relays - what each one controls
Updated: 2010 Jun 22
Relay positions (numbered from front to back of the motorcycle, or left to right as you are facing them)
- Relay «1»: Horn (13)
- «blinker»
- Relay «2»: Starter (19)
- Relay «3»: Lights (29)
- Relay «4»: ECU (43)
- Relay «5»: Fuel injection (41)
I may have relay 4 and relay 5 reversed…as one affects the other and I didn't take the time to fully figure that one out.
Seat latch - spring loaded
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Option A
Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for sending me these photos in a private email.
A seat latch fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
A seat latch fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
A seat latch fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
Option B
I've wanted to be able to remove the seat without removing the side panels. I know that some have mounted a remote latching system, I chose a different approach.
I purchased the following:
- McMaster-Carr item number 85015A71 - Stainless Steel Metric Ball-Nose Plunger W/Locking Element, M8 Thrd, 9-13.5 lb End Force; Quantity: 2
- McMaster-Carr item number 3382A15 - Ball-Nose & Round-Nose Spring Plunger Wrench for 5/16"-18 and M8 Thread Size; Quantity: 1
Installation was simple:
- Remove side covers.
- Remove the two bolts that secure the seat to the frame.
- Replace bolts with the ball nose plungers.
- Adjust ball nose plungers to protrude the appropriate amount.
The end result for me a seat that seems to stay in place very well while still affording easy removal. I'm sure I could have done without the tool (3382A15), but it made life a lot easier and didn't require me to file a screwdriver to fit.
Also, I'm not sure that the plunging part of the ball nose plunger does much at all other than to provide a smooth, rounded surface for the seat securing brackets to flex around. I think the same effect could be accomplished by grinding down the end of a 8mm bolt so that it has a nice, rounded end. This can be quickly accomplished with a bench grinder and a hand drill. Chuck the bolt in the hand drill and run the hand drill while grinding…makes a nice rounded profile. And, since the threaded holes go all the way through the mounting tabs, a person could simply screw them through from the backside.
Spare parts catalogs
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 5,766 KB | 43 pages | |
| 17,355 KB | 127 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Speedometer angle converter
Updated: 2008 Jul 17
Replacement - Speedometer angle converter
Thanks to Dovie who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Dovie's own words:
Regarding the angle converter for the speedo…it can be had from Cosmopolitan Motors in Hatboro, PA or Domiracer. When I bought my Quota the miter box or angle thing or whatever was trashed, but I had a spare in store as the Benelli 4 and 6 cylinder bikes used the very same part (Mine was the Sei 900) so try those 2 outlets for this part. I bet you it will be in stock and cheaper than Moto Guzzi.
Repair - Speedometer angle converter
Thanks to Erling Pedersen who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Erling's own words:
(Here is a) photo of a small and effective repair of the angular drive. It is one of those things that cracks when you forget to grease the drive and the cable, or when the cable is stressed. Or maybe it is just a bad design. I have repaired it on the Le Mans II some twenty years ago, (Did I say twenty years? It seems like yesterday.) The brass thing can be changed with a hose clamp, it works but does not look the same.
Repairing the speedometer angular drive on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Erling Pedersen.
Steering head bearing
Updated: 2008 Sep 13
Thanks to Howard Rymes who sent me this information in a private email. In Howard's own words:
Last weekend I tackled the steering head bearings on the old Quota. So I have enclosed the steps I did and I help this may be useful to other Quota owner's.
- Make sure you have enough food for a least 5 hours.
- Make sure Pet cat has it's blanket so it can supervise the work. (Our cat watched for a few hours and even sniffed some of the parts to make sure I was doing a good job).
- Have radio on to relax by.
- Need trouble light to see under the fairing.
- Place motorcycle on center stand.
- Lift with floor jack on the front exhaust cross-over tube and place 6 of 2 x 4 x 12 inches long in two piles with also 2 of 1/2 plywood pieces. This raises the engine and front end as high as it will go. I like the wood block set up because it is very sturdy. A motorcycle jack would work.
- Loosen front wheel axle nut 24 mm in size.
- Loosen front wheel pinch bolt nut - 10 mm in size.
- I have motolights so I had to loosen the allan screw which allows the motolights to tip down to get at the allan bolt holding the brake caliper on the fork. Motolight allen screw is 3/16 inch and brake caliper allan bolts use a 6 mm allan wrench.
- Remove caliper from front rotor and let hang for now.
- Remove axle bolt and spacer on the left side of the front wheel. Remove front wheel.
- Remove the four bolts holding the front fender on. Bolt head is 10 mm Remove the fender.
- Loosen the fork pinch bolts on the bottom triple clamp. Use a 5 mm allan wrench. I left one bolt just snug to hold the ram in place.
- Loosen top triple clamp pinch bolts. Use 6 mm allan wrench.
- Now loosen the one lower pinch bolt and slide the fork out of the triple clamp. I had to tap the top of the ram with my sand hammer to help it move out of the triple clamp.
- Remove the two allan bolts holding the brake t-piece onto the lower triple clamp. Use a socket type 5 mm allan with a wobbly type 3/8 drive long extension. Go through the top to get these bolts.
- Because I have the Hepco Becker engine guards, I then lifted both brake lines, calipers up and over the right side engine guard. This got the brake line, caliper out of the way.
- Place blanket over the gas tank. Place a small piece of masking tape on the center section of the handle bar and mark the bar to the clamp.
- Remove the four allan bolts holding the bar to the upper triple clamp.
- Let handle bar rest on the blanket.
- Use a 28 mm socket (or 1-1/8 Imperial socket) to loosen the upper triple clamp bolt.
- Now wiggle the upper triple clamp off the fork tube.
- Now you can see the round preload ring nut. It has 4 notches in it. My old Raleigh crank lock ring wrench worked to loosen the preload nut. I also tried my Ford 4x4 front hub socket OTC 7157 socket and it's tabs were close enough to loosen it. I wouldn't want to use the OTC tool to tighten the preload nut because it's four tabs are not exact line-up to the nut notches.
Note: I found out that Moto Guzzi has a socket for the Griso steering head preload nut Part # AP8140190 but I don't know if it will fit the Quota. I think it will.- Now hang onto the lower triple clamp while you remove the preload nut. Remove the nut and the metal cup washer.
- Slide the fork shaft and lower triple clamp out from the steering head frame unit.
- Look at the bearings. See if they had notched the roller into the bearing race. Unfortunately mine had notched the roller into the race.
- I used a long brass punch (about 1/4 inch size) and drove the lower and upper rings out
The original bearing were 30205A FAG Made in Portugal. I replaced these with SKF BR30205 Tapper roller bearing from our local automotive parts store. Each bearing was List price 27.09 Canadian.- One gentleman on the internet did a bearing set off a California Special EV and so he used a Dremel tool to cut off the lower bearing. It worked very well. Takes a little time to cut through I then hit the inner ring with a chisel pop it apart. The inner ring then just slid off the fork shaft.
- Remove the rubber seal. It can be reused if in good shape but I put a new one on. Moto Guzzi number 14517000. I ordered the rubber seal from MG cycle and it arrived here in Calgary within three days.
- Clean the steering shaft and check for any roughness where the lower bearing goes on. Light sand if needed.
- Repack the two bearings with wheel bearing grease.
- place new rubber dust seal on shaft and put grease in the seal.
- Put bearing on the shaft and tap the bearing down the shaft with a piece of 1 inch electrical plastic tubing. I then used a small punch and tapped the bearing inner ring to make sure it was all the way down. You can feel the hammer bounce off the bearing when it hits the bottom.
- Add more grease to the lower bearing. I put about 4 finger blobs of grease inside the steering head to help keep water out of the bearing and the same to the top of the steering frame tube.
- Slide in the steering head shaft and lower triple clamp.
- Place the upper tapered bearing in place.
- Install the cup washer. I added more grease to the cup washer to help add protection of water going throw the cup washer into the bearing.
- Thread on the round 4 notch preload nut.
- Tighten the preload nut with hook tool just until; it stops with light tightening of the hook tool. Turn lower triple clamp to help seat in the bearings.
- Now tighten the preload nut until it is tight. Do not rotate the lower triple clamp.
- Loosen the preload nut just enough so the lower triple clamp can swing easy and smoothly.
- This is where it gets tricky. Now have lunch.
- Lightly sand the ram bore holes in the upper and lower triple clamp and apply a layer of grease on the aluminum bores.
- Clean the shine part of the ram and lightly grease.
- Install the upper triple clamp but not pressed all the way down onto the lock preload nut.
- Install the two rams into the triple clamps. Lightly tighten one of the lower triple clamp bolt 5 mm allan just to hold the ram from falling down.
- Install the front wheel axle bolt into the bottom of the fork. This will help align the forks so they are parallel to each other.
- I placed anti seize on all the bolts.
- Install brake t-piece. Use the 5 mm socket allan wrench to get these little bolts started. They are a little awkward. Tighten the allan bolts from the top with wobbly extension and ratchet.
- Now push the upper triple clamp down to it's correct position. The ram filler plug bottom flat washer part should be just above the triple clamp.
- Adjust the ram height if required.
- Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts with 5 mm allan wrench. Do not tight top pinch bolts yet.
- Install the fender and the four bolts. The flat metal washer goes with the holes towards the floor.
At this time some people will say adjust the preload on the head bearing with the wheel off and just feel the forks as they swing. I installed the front wheel and the brake and the handle bar to have all the weight on the front forks as they swing from center to right and center to left.- Install front wheel, axle shaft and spacer. Hold allan wrench on axle shaft while tighten the nut.
- Install brake caliper and moto lights. I will leave the adjustment for the motolights when the motorcycle has all the weight on the front wheel.
- I then pulled on the bottom of the forks to check for looseness in the steering head bearing. There should be any looseness.
- I then held the front wheel straight and lightly pushed the wheel to left or right and so how it fell.
- I then lifted the upper triple clamp just enough to get the hook tool onto the preload nut and played with the preload. I had success doing it this way. I loosen the nut until I felt loosen in the front bearing when I pulled on the fork bottom. I then tightened the lock nut just enough to remove the looseness. I then turn the lock right about 1/4 inch more tightening and the front wheel was smooth as it fell left and right. Double checked looseness in the fork. All was good.
- Pushed the upper triple clamp down and tightened the center bolt 28 mm socket.
- Installed the handle bar to correct position.
- Use the 5 mm allan wrench to equal tighten the handle bar clamps.
- Tighten upper triple clamp pinch bolts.
- Double check all bolts on fork triple clamps, axle bolts , axle pinch nuts (10 mm socket).
- Lift motorcycle up and pull wood out.
- Push on the front forks to make sure the triple clamps are holding.
- Lift on engine with jack and small piece of wood to raise tire off the ground.
- Check for looseness in the fork, pull on the bottom of the fork forward.
- If not loosen is there, check to see how the front wheel falls left and right from center. If it is smooth left and right and no looseness, Pat yourself on the shoulder. Good Job.
- Now if there is looseness in the bearing, remove the handle bar, remove the center nut and lift the upper triple clamp up just enough to get the hook tool and tighten up the preload bearing. Recheck fork looseness and tire left and right fall.
- When all done, take for a little ride and you will notice a difference in the steering.
- I would check the steering preload after 500 miles. Readjust if required.
Note: Some people will tell you to tighten the steering head bearings a little tighter so they have a slight drag. This is so when the bearing seats in, the bearing drag will be zero. Example rear differentials on motor vehicles have 5 foot/pounds of drag or preload on the tapered bearing when properly set up when new. Then as the bearing seats in, the preload goes to zero. The rear differential has a pinion shaft which is rotating in a circle. The motorcycle steering is maybe turning a total from full left to full right 80° to 90° depending on the size of the front wheel and slope of the fork. So the front steering bearing is not rotating in a circle like the rear differential pinion bearings are. So the amount of preload on the steering head bearings is very small.
I will send you through the mail a photocopy of the Raleigh bicycle tool so you have an exact size of the c-wrench opening. Also if a person wants to use their old school compass set and draw a 2.5 cm radius circle, this is the size of the steering preload nut. The notches in the nut are about 3 to 4 millimeters in width and about the same in depth. Then you can shape your c- wrench so it has the correct inside curve. A stone grinder is needed because the hardened metal of the tool or if you have a Dremel tool it would be perfect. The width of the metal between the inside curve and the outside curve is 5 mm. This is important width so you can slide the tool between the ignition switch and the steering preload nut. A wider tool will hit the ignition switch barrel.
I like using the c-wrench because it gave me more feel of how tight the preload nut was and how far I could turn it to get the proper preload. A punch and light hammer will work but for a small investment, the c-wrench really makes it easy.
Hope this is helpful. Its not hard to do but a person should just take their time, relax , have lunch, take pictures, have friends over, and then when all done, enjoy the ride.
Tools Needed: Metric allan wrench set, Plastic sand hammer, 28 mm socket, c-wrench, Anti seize compound, floor jack, 2 x 4 wood and plywood 1/2 thick pieces, Steel hammer, brass long punch, Wheel bearing grease, paper towels, Brass hammer (to install bearing races), steel small punch(1/4 inch ), Dremel tool, small chisel, safety glasses, 24 mm combination wrench or socket (front wheel axle nut), Metric allan 3/8 drive set (5 mm), 3/8 drive 16 inch wobble extension, 3/8 drive ratchet
Steering head bearing cross reference
Updated: 2008 Apr 10
Two (2) tapered roller bearings are required (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 16.25 mm)
- Moto Guzzi MG# 92249225
- Maryland Metric item no. 30205
- FAG 30205A
- RIV 01/02/7205
- SKF 30205A
- SNR 30205
- STEYR 30205
Swing arm seal cross-references
Updated: 2010 May 05
Two identical seals are used on both sides of the swing arm (ID: 30 mm, OD: 40 mm, Width: 7 mm).
Tank wings / tank wind deflectors
Updated: 2008 Nov 10
Thanks to Alan Greenslade (Auckland, New Zealand) who sent me this information in a private email. In Alan's own words:
I recently fitted some Gustafsson tank wings to my Quota. They did not come with any fitting instructions and was difficult to find out any information on where/how to fit them.
In the end I attached per the attached photos. They work very well to eliminate wind buffeting. I'm sending this to you as you may wish to post it on your website for other people fitting the tank wings.
- I used 20 mm x 3 mm aluminium strap with rounded ends for the brackets. I turned up 4 spacers 20 mm diameter by approx 12 mm long to mount the brackets.
- I also made 4 outer washers 20 mm diameter to take a 6 mm SS dome head machine screw.
- I placed the wings on the tank at the desired angle, so the contour of the top curved aligned with the fairing, and bent he brackets to suit. I drilled and tapped (6 mm) the strap and used the original large head fairing screws (reduced length slightly) to attached the wings with SS acorn nuts as lock nuts on the front.
- When drilling the wings, grind a negative rake (flat edge) on the drill to prevent cracking. I used a small soldering iron to mark the wings through the brackets holes for drilling.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Installing Gustafsson Plastics tank wings on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Alan Greenslade.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Mike Haven of MPH Cycles has a couple of articles about tuning the EFI and the Quota.
I messed with my TPS one time…essentially just loosened the screw and moved it up and down to different millivolt values - very touchy. I found the original position worked best and left it alone. If memory serves, that was 395 millivolts or there about. It just didn't want to idle at any other position.
To measure the millivolt values, connect your volt meter to the middle pin and one outside pin of the connector. If you read 5 volts or something like that, switch your connections around to the other outside pin so that you read in millivolts. This process is made much easier by wiring in pig tails so that your readings can be easily made.
I set my TPS to around 395 millivolts with the ignition ON but the engine NOT running. It does make a difference. It is a very good idea to check your millivolt reading BEFORE adjusting the TPS. Write the value down so you can always get back to your starting point.
Cross-reference
The TPS used on the Quota is a Weber PF10 (PF 10). This is different from the TPS used on the other late model Guzzis, which is a Weber PF3C (PF 3C) . The common replacement is to use Harley Davidson part number 27271-95. The Harley part number corresponds to a Weber PF4C (PF 4C). Magneti Marelli distributes Weber products. I do not know if the PF3C or PF4C will replace the PF10. If anyone has actually used either part on a Quota, please let me know.
Timing chain and tensioner
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
At around 38,000 miles, I started hearing the timing chain rattling about inside the timing chest. It didn't rattle all the time, but seemed to be most prominent when decelerating from higher RPMs. I decided it was time to put in a new tensioner. Instead of using the stock tensioner from Guzzi, I opted for the common (and popular) bow-type tensioner. It is less expensive and places more pressure on the chain, too. Also, I decided that if I was going that far into the timing chest, that I might as well replace the timing chain. Replacement of the gasket, front main seal, and o-ring were givens.
Replacement is very straightforward and simple. But, do keep the following in mind.
- The rotor for the alternator simply slides off the front of the crankshaft. It is not pressed on. Very easy!
- In addition to standard mechanic tools, a very deep 32 mm socket is needed to remove the nut securing the crankshaft gear to the crankshaft. A normal deep-well socket is not long enough. Instead, purchase 2 deep well sockets, cut the end off of one and weld it on to the end of the other. It is probably best to purchase standard sockets (not impact sockets) as the wall thickness of the impact socket will have to be turned down to fit the available space inside the crankshaft gear.
- Before removing the three gears, be sure to align the mark on the camshaft gear with the mark on the crankshaft gear by rotating the crankshaft (easier if both spark plugs are removed). Once aligned, do NOT rotate either the crankshaft or the camshaft. If you do, you'll mess up the timing. When replacing the gears, make sure to keep the marks aligned. I found it easiest to keep the chain and gears together as I removed them. Then, I laid them flat on a rag and carefully replaced the chain…keeping my gears in line. This really isn't very difficult if a little care is taken.
- The bow-type tensioner is secured differently than the stock tensioner…utilizing the two existing bolts that already secure the front main bearing to the block. When the stock tensioner is removed, however, you'll need to replace one of the bolts with a shorter one. I just matched up the length with another bolt I had in my stash.
- Both the crankshaft securing nut and the camshaft securing nut require about 111 foot pounds of torque. So make sure you have a torque wrench sufficient to the task.
- The nut securing the rotor of the alternator to the crankshaft does not require very much torque. All it does is keep the rotor secured to the crankshaft. 25 - 30 foot pounds is plenty (I've not seen an official torque specification from Guzzi for that nut).
- Do apply anti-seize to the threads of the three bolts that secure the stator to the front of the timing chest AND the four bolts that secure the plastic alternator cover. These have a tendency to corrode and anti-seize is cheap insurance.
- In retrospect, my timing chain did not require replacement and I could have gotten away with simply replacing the tensioner. But, I didn't want the bike to be down very long and ordered all the parts beforehand.
- This was my first timing doing the job. It took me 3 hours, 15 minutes - start to finish.
Tire pressure conversion chart (BAR to PSI)
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The owner's manual states that the front wheel should be inflated to 2.3 BAR and that the rear wheel should be inflated to 2.5 BAR with one rider and 2.9 BAR with two riders. When running at continuous maximum speed, the pressure in the front wheel should be increased by 0.2 BAR.
But what is a BAR? To start with, BAR is a word in and of itself (PSI is an acronym for pounds per square inch). In short, 1 BAR is equal to about 14.5 PSI (14.5037738 to be more precise). Here is a conversion chart:
| BAR | PSI | Quota recommendations (from owner's manual) |
|---|---|---|
| 0.1 | 1.5 | - |
| 0.2 | 2.9 | Recommended increase in front tire pressure when running at continuous maximum speed. |
| 0.3 | 4.4 | - |
| 0.4 | 5.8 | - |
| 0.5 | 7.3 | - |
| 0.6 | 8.7 | - |
| 0.7 | 10.2 | - |
| 0.8 | 11.6 | - |
| 0.9 | 13.1 | - |
| 1.0 | 14.5 | - |
| 1.1 | 16.0 | - |
| 1.2 | 17.4 | - |
| 1.3 | 18.9 | - |
| 1.4 | 20.3 | - |
| 1.5 | 21.8 | - |
| 1.6 | 23.2 | - |
| 1.7 | 24.7 | - |
| 1.8 | 26.1 | - |
| 1.9 | 27.6 | - |
| 2.0 | 29.0 | - |
| 2.1 | 30.5 | - |
| 2.2 | 31.9 | - |
| 2.3 | 33.4 | Recommended front tire pressure. |
| 2.4 | 34.8 | - |
| 2.5 | 36.3 | Recommended rear tire pressure. |
| 2.6 | 37.7 | - |
| 2.7 | 39.2 | - |
| 2.8 | 40.6 | - |
| 2.9 | 42.1 | Recommended rear tire pressure when riding two-up. |
| 3.0 | 43.5 | - |
| 3.1 | 45.0 | - |
| 3.2 | 46.4 | - |
| 3.3 | 47.9 | - |
| 3.4 | 49.3 | - |
| 3.5 | 50.8 | - |
| 3.6 | 52.2 | - |
| 3.7 | 53.7 | - |
| 3.8 | 55.1 | - |
| 3.9 | 56.6 | - |
| 4.0 | 58.0 | - |
| 4.1 | 59.5 | - |
| 4.2 | 60.9 | - |
| 4.3 | 62.4 | - |
| 4.4 | 63.8 | - |
| 4.5 | 65.3 | - |
| 4.6 | 66.7 | - |
| 4.7 | 68.2 | - |
| 4.8 | 69.6 | - |
| 4.9 | 71.1 | - |
| 5.0 | 72.5 | - |
Tires
Updated: 2010 May 28
- Avon:
- Front: AM43 Distanzia 54 H [90/90-21]
- Rear: AM44 Distanzia 65 H [130/80-17]
- Bridgestone:
- Front: TW41F BW TT 51 S [90/90-21]
- Rear: TW22R BW TT 65 S [130/80-17]
- Front: Battlax BT45 F BW TL 54 H [90/90-21]
- Rear: Battlax BT45 R BW TL 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,426 miles out of the rear tire)
- Continental:
- Front: ContiTrailAttack 54 H [90/90-21] (I am currently running this front tire)
- Rear: ContiTrailAttack 65 H [130/80-17]
- Front: ContiEscape 54 H [90/90-21]
- Rear: ContiEscape 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 5,845 miles out of the rear tire)
- Front: TKC 80 [90/90-21] (I took this tire off because I found it too squirrely for the mostly on-pavement work my Quota sees)
- Rear: TKC 80 [130/80-17]
- Dunlop:
- Front: D607 Front 54 H [90/90-21] (I got 18,013 miles out of the front tire. Still tread left, but cupping was bad enough to warrant replacement.)
- Rear: D607 Rear 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,500 miles out of the rear tire)
- Kenda:
- Front: K761 [90/90-21 54H]
- Rear: K761 [130/80-17 65H] (I am currently running this rear tire)
- Maxxis:
- Front: Promaxx M6102 [3.00-21 51H/TL]
- Rear: V1 M6002 [130/80-17 65V/TL]
- Metzeler:
- Front: Tourance Front 54 H [90/90-21]
- Rear: Tourance Steel-Radial 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 7,500 miles out of the rear tire)
- Michelin:
- Front: Anakee H [90/90-21]
- Rear: Anakee H [130/80-17] (I got 6,418 miles out of the rear tire)
- Pirelli:
- Front: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 54 H [90/90-21]
- Rear: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 65 H [130/80-17]
Tool box
Updated: 2008 Jul 17
Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for sending me these photos in a private email.
Gaining space for tools under the seat of a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
Gaining space for tools under the seat of a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
Gaining space for tools under the seat of a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Stanislav Bojan Zupet.
Torque specifications
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
These specifications are derived from the Quota Workshop Manual. I generally prefer the torque values Moto Guzzi specified for the V7 Sport, T, and T3 models. Use at your own risk.
| Description | Newton Meters | Foot Pounds | Inch Pounds | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Min | Max | Min | Max | Min | Max | |
| Head to crankcase screws and stud bolts | 40 | 42 | 30 | 31 | 354 | 372 |
| Spark plugs | 20 | 30 | 15 | 22 | 177 | 266 |
| Fastening socket screw for oil fumes recovery pipe | 40 | 30 | 354 | |||
| Fastening screws for rocker arms shafts | 6 | 8 | 4 | 6 | 53 | 71 |
| Self-locking nut for con-rod caps fastening screws | 46 | 48 | 34 | 35 | 407 | 425 |
| Flywheel to crankshaft fastening screws | 42 | 31 | 372 | |||
| Gear to camshaft clamping nut | 150 | 111 | 1328 | |||
| Fastening screws for suction manifold | 20 | 15 | 177 | |||
| Fastening socket screw for oil to heads delivery pipe | 15 | 18 | 11 | 13 | 133 | 159 |
| Nut for engine to chassis front and rear tie rods | 80 | 59 | 708 | |||
| Lock nut for secondary shaft | 160 | 180 | 118 | 133 | 1416 | 1593 |
| Gearbox oil filler plug | 30 | 22 | 266 | |||
| Gearbox oil level and drain plug | 25 | 18 | 221 | |||
| Safety nut for secondary shaft | 70 | 80 | 52 | 59 | 620 | 708 |
| Lock nut for bearing on bevel sprocket | 180 | 200 | 133 | 148 | 1593 | 1770 |
| Fastening screws for rear sprocket to drilled shaft | 40 | 42 | 30 | 31 | 354 | 372 |
| Fastening screws for frame section to chassis | 80 | 59 | 708 | |||
| Nut for frame section to chassis fastening screws | 80 | 59 | 708 | |||
| Cap nut for swinging arm support pivots | 80 | 59 | 708 | |||
| Gearbox to swinging arm clamping nuts | 35 | 26 | 310 | |||
| Front fork top crowns (damper) | 80 | 85 | 59 | 63 | 708 | 752 |
| Nut for front and rear wheel shaft | 90 | 95 | 66 | 70 | 797 | 841 |
| Fork leg pinch bolt | 20 | 22 | 15 | 16 | 177 | 195 |
| Swinging arm pinch bolt | 50 | 37 | 443 | |||
| Rear link rod (swing arm) pivot and progr. rocker arm cover | 70 | 75 | 52 | 55 | 620 | 664 |
| Progr. rocker arm to chassis pin | 70 | 75 | 52 | 55 | 620 | 664 |
| Shock absorber retaining pin | 50 | 37 | 443 | |||
| N.B.: All values are checked for wet torque | ||||||
| Standard values | ||||||
| Screws and nuts Ø 4 mm | 3 | 2 | 27 | |||
| Screws and nuts Ø 5 mm x 0.8 mm | 5.5 | 4 | 49 | |||
| Screws and nuts Ø 6 mm x 1.0 mm | 8 | 12 | 6 | 9 | 71 | 106 |
| Screws and nuts Ø 8 mm x 1.25 mm | 25 | 30 | 18 | 22 | 221 | 266 |
| Screws and nuts Ø 10 mm x 1.5 mm | 45 | 50 | 33 | 37 | 398 | 443 |
Transmission bearing cross-references
Updated: 2010 May 05
The serial number on my transmission is "CM 011978". Both of the double row ball bearings (MG# 92218424) were manufactured with polyamide cages. These are known to fail and can be catastrophic to the transmission and potentially to the rider as well. I replaced both of these bearings with bearings manufactured with steel cages.
All are open (not shielded or sealed).
Note: I have visually verified all of the bearing sizes.
Input/clutch shaft
- Front of transmission (MG# 92218424):
-
25 mm ID x 52 mm OD x 20.6 mm thick - this is a double row ball bearing
- FAG 3205
- FED 5205
- ND 5205
- New Departure 5205
- RIV 3205 or 2AANOn25
- SKF 5205
- SKF (Eur.) 3205
- STEYR 3205
-
25 mm ID x 52 mm OD x 20.6 mm thick - this is a double row ball bearing
- Rear of transmission (MG# 92256218):
-
17 mm ID x 35 mm OD x 15 mm thick - this is a needle bearing
- Durkopp 10-2762
- RIV NAS 17
- Torrington 10-2762
- Timken 10-2762
-
17 mm ID x 35 mm OD x 15 mm thick - this is a needle bearing
Main/cluster shaft
- Front of transmission (MG# 92256218):
-
17 mm ID x 35 mm OD x 15 mm thick - this is a needle bearing
- Durkopp 10-2762
- RIV NAS 17
- Torrington 10-2762
- Timken 10-2762
-
17 mm ID x 35 mm OD x 15 mm thick - this is a needle bearing
- Rear of transmission (MG# 92201417):
-
17 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm thick - this is a single row ball bearing
- FAF 303K
- FAG 6303
- FED 1303
- MRC 303-S
- ND 3303
- New Departure 3303
- NH 303
- RIV 4B or 6303
- SKF 6303
- STEYR 6303
-
17 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm thick - this is a single row ball bearing
Lay/output shaft
- Front of transmission (MG# 92234117):
-
17 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm thick - this is a cylindrical roller bearing
- FAG N 303
- FAG NF 303
- FAG NJ 303
- FAG NU 303
- FAG NUP 303
- HOFF R 317
- HOFF R 317 E
- HOFF R 317 L
- HOFF R 317 P
- Hyatt A 1303 TS
- IKO A 1303 TS
- RIV FN 303
- SKF N 303
- SKF NF 303
- SKF NJ 303
- SKF NU 303
- SKF NUP 303
- STEYR N 303
- STEYR NF 303
- STEYR NJ 303
- STEYR NU 303
- STEYR NUP 303
-
17 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm thick - this is a cylindrical roller bearing
- Rear of transmission (MG# 92218424):
-
25 mm ID x 52 mm OD x 20.6 mm thick - this is a double row ball bearing
- FAG 3205
- FED 5205
- ND 5205
- New Departure 5205
- RIV 3205 or 2AANOn25
- SKF 5205
- SKF (Eur.) 3205
- STEYR 3205
-
25 mm ID x 52 mm OD x 20.6 mm thick - this is a double row ball bearing
Turn signal replacements
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
I finally went down to my local Harley Davidson/Buell dealership and purchased the often recommended turn signals at a greatly reduced price (USD $5.20 for each complete turn signal). The signals are used on the 2005 Buell Lighting, and perhaps other models. They are identical in all respects save for the diameter of the stud that mounts to the bike (they are made by the same Italian manufacturer). The Buell's use a smaller diameter stud than the Quotas. I've not tried, but it looks like you can probably even swap the stalks (with studs) from the Quota turn signals to the Buell turn signals.
A drain hole located at the bottom of each turn signal necessitates two different part numbers:
- Left front and right rear - Y0503.02A8
- Right front and left rear - Y0504.02A8
Buell turn signals for fitment on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Buell turn signals for fitment on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Buell turn signals for fitment on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
U-joint carrier bearing cross-references
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
The physical dimensions of the sealed carrier bearing (MG# 92204230) are as follows:
- ID: 30 mm
- OD: 62 mm
- Width: 16 mm
The original carrier bearing in my Quota was a NSK 6206 DU. This cross-references with many other bearings, including:
- FAF 206PP
- FAG 6206.2RS
- FED 1206RR
- MRC 206-SZZ
- ND Z99506
- New Departure Z99506
- NH 206KK
- RIV ALN 30
- SKF 6206-2RS
- STEYR 6206.2RS
Vibration damping mounts
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Moto Guzzi uses vibration damping mounts at several locations on the Quota…most notable are the two at the top dash/fairing mounting points and the three that secure the fuse panel/computer to the left rear of the cycle. There are actually two different styles. The two mounts that are used at the dash have a 6 mm stud on one end and a 6 mm nut/threaded insert on the other end. The three mounts that are used to hold the fuse panel on have 6 mm studs at each end.
Nearly all of my rubber mounts have broke (the steel plates that sandwich the rubber detach from the rubber).
Although replacements are readily available through Moto Guzzi, I chose to purchase less expensive (and hopefully stronger) ones through McMaster-Carr.
- For the dash, I chose item number 4403K62. These are almost identical to the originals in size. The stud is a little shorter on these, but it in no way effects how they are mounted to the dash.
- For the fuse panel, I chose item number 4403K75. These mounts have a larger diameter than the originals and are a little bit longer, but fit nicely and don't interfere with the side cover.
Each of these mounts has properties that are fully described by McMaster-Carr, so I won't go into them here. However, if these mounts fail (like my original ones did), I'll be sure to try mounts with different properties (specifically with respect to sheer strength).
Voltage regulator replacement
Updated: 2009 Sep 21
ElectroSport
ElectroSport Industries (formerly Electrex) has replacement regulators for the Quota alternators (and other Moto Guzzi models as well). The part number is ESR510 (old part number RR51). This voltage regulator is a direct replacement and will maintain all original functionality. However, the wire terminals do need to be modified.
Euro Motoelectrics
Euro MotoElectrics EnDuraLast part numbers EDL-450VoltRect or EDLGUZ-VoltRect. These voltage regulators are direct replacements and will maintain all original functionality. However, the wire terminals do need to be modified on the EDLGUZ-VoltRect. EDL-450VoltRect is plug and play and will require no modification to the original wiring.
Harley Davidson voltage regulator
Thanks to Russ Marooney for providing the following photos and starting information regarding how he replaced the stock voltage regulator with an inexpensive 32 Amp unit designed for Harley Davidson motorcycles.
I've been noticing that my voltage output has been declining for a while now. Rather than wait to be stranded, I decided to go ahead and replace my voltage regulator (and stash the slowly failing unit on the bike as a backup). I decided to try the less expensive Harley Davidson unit rather than the more expensive Guzzi specific unit. While the Harley Davidson unit regulates voltage just fine, it does not maintain all original functionality. Specifically, you will lose the dash indicator light when you install the Harley Davidson voltage regulator. For me, this isn't a problem because I have a volt meter installed. But, if you want to keep your dash indicator bulb, do not install this voltage regulator.
The Harley Davidson unit was originally designed to fit 1989 to 1999, 80" Evolution Big Twin motorcycles. Here are a variety of part numbers for this voltage regulator:
- Custom Chrome part number 25-353 (25353). This is the one Russ Marooney installed.
Custom Chrome part number 25-353 (25353). Can be mounted on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. - Drag Specialties part number DS-313020 (DS313020). This is the one I installed.
Drag Specialties part number DS-313020 (DS313020). Can be mounted on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. - Harley Davidson part number 74519-88 (7451988).
Installation
- The mounting holes on the Harley Davidson voltage regulator are not spaced the same distance apart as on the original Moto Guzzi voltage regulator. So, start by crafting a mounting bracket.
Simple mounting bracket for mounting an aftermarket voltage regulator on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Russ Marooney. - Wire connections
- There are two yellow wires exiting the alternator that connect to two yellow wires on the original Moto Guzzi voltage regulator. These two wires must be connected to the two wires on the Harley Davidson voltage regulator that have the two-prong plug on them. It does not matter which goes to which, just connect them.
- There is a single red wire on the Original Moto Guzzi voltage regulator. This wire goes to the battery and charges it. This red wire must now be connected to the single black wire exiting the Harley Davidson voltage regulator.
- The remaining two wires (black and white) that are connected to the Moto Guzzi voltage regulator are for the dash indicator bulb. Since there is no corresponding connections on the Harley Davidson voltage regulator, there is nothing to connect them to.
- NOTE: While Russ' photos show modification to the original wiring harness, I chose not to go that route. Instead, I chose to modify the wiring on the voltage regulator so as to mate properly with the original wiring harness; leaving the Moto Guzzi wiring harness intact and unaltered.
Wiring detail for mounting an aftermarket voltage regulator on a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Russ Marooney. - Grounding the voltage regulator is critical (both on the Harley Davidson voltage regulator and on the original Moto Guzzi voltage regulator). The grounding is through the body of the voltage regulator, through the mounting bracket, and into the frame (to which the battery ground is also connected). I also have a 10-gauge wire going directly from the voltage regulator mounting bolt to the engine case.
Volt meter review (I4C Products 'C-Volt')
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Unfortunately, I4C Products is no longer in business. But, Bronson Murray recently purchased a very similar (if not identical) unit from Digital Meter. I've no long term data on it yet, but it is certainly something to look into.
When deciding to mount dual headlights into a Quota 1000 fairing, I wanted to be able to operate both low beams or both high beams. Doing so would double the headlight electrical requirements and could potentially be more than my charging system could handle. So, I decided to mount a voltage meter to keep track of things.
I wanted a good quality gauge that was water proof and affordable. I found what I was looking for in the "C-Volt" gauge made by I4C Products (model number CV100LED).
I4C Products C-Volt. A nice little voltage gauge for the Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES.
- The gauge is digital and accurate when checked against my multi meter.
- The brightness at night is not "too" bright…just fine for me.
- In sunshine, I have to shade the numbers with my hand to read them…I wish it had a "super bright" setting for daytime use.
- I have had absolutely no trouble with water infiltration…very nice.
- It comes with a bezel which cleans up the installation well.
- It does draw a small amount of current…enough to drain a motorcycle battery if left on for a month or more without running the bike or charging the battery. So don't leave it "hot" all the time.
- Installation is simple and straightforward…just run wires to the battery terminals. It must be hooked up positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative; but is reverse polarity protected so there is no danger of damage.
- I was concerned about annoyance from the numbers changing all the time with very small changes in voltage. That has not been the case and I do not find it distracting at all.
Wellnuts (well nuts)
Updated: 2010 Jun 03
Wellnuts are those rubberized mounting nuts that secure the front of the fairing to the fairing sides. They are also used to secure the small lower bug screen to the fairing sides. Moto Guzzi uses 5 mm Wellnuts at all of these connection points.
Many of my Wellnuts have deteriorated and come apart.
While inch-sized Wellnuts are readily available from Ace Hardware or McMaster-Carr, metric sized are extremely difficult to find. I found a source for replacements online at Desmo Parts.
Wheel bearing cross-references
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Contributed by Jan Keijzer on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group.
Front wheel
- 17 mm ID x 40 mm OD x 12 mm
- FAF 203PP
- FAG 6203.2RS
- FED 1203RR
- MRC 203-SZZ
- ND Z99503
- New Departure Z99503
- NH 203KK
- RIV ALN 17
- SKF 6203-2RS
- STEYR 6203.2RS
Rear wheel
- 20 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm
- FAF 204PP
- FAG 6204.2RS
- FED 1204RR
- MRC 204-SZZ
- ND Z99504
- New Departure Z99504
- NH 204NN
- RIV ALN 20
- SKF 6204-2RS
- STEYR 6204.2RS
Wheel rim size
Updated: 2008 Mar 11
Front wheel
1.85" x 21"
Rear wheel
2.75" x 17"
Windshield options
Updated: 2010 Jun 03
The unobtanium option:
The windshield pictured below is the "Swanee" type windshield that was made sporadically by somebody a few years ago. The previous owner of my Quota purchased it, so I don't have any contact information. But, that's probably a good thing since I've heard the last few people who sent him money didn't get a shield! It does, however, provide a great deal of protection and I've found it very nice on longer trips. It was also great when I lived in the cooler climate of Minnesota. One drawback, however, is that my handlebars cannot be turned fully side-to-side with the windshield installed. It isn't a problem on the road…but makes it a little frustrating when maneuvering it around the shop. Buffeting is still a problem…but is largely alleviated with the use of tank panniers. Fit is okay, but not great. Be sure to install small plastic spacers between the fairing and the windshield.
'Swanee' type windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The Moto Guzzi option:
For around $200, you could always consider the Moto Guzzi windshield (made by Parabellum and available directly through them if your dealer can't get it) - but I don't recommend it. I purchased it and tried it for a trip to the Wisconsin rally in 2004. It gave me so much helmet buffeting that I couldn't wait to take it off. Fortunately, Parabellum has a return policy that I was able to take advantage of and I only lost out on the shipping. On the plus side, it fits very nicely. Mike Taylor (a.k.a. guzzimike, rocker59) was able to overcome much of the buffeting by drilling large holes in the lower portion of the parabellum screen.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
Parabellum windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Mike Taylor.
The Gustafsson Plastics option:
For around $105, you can pick up the touring screen made by (Gustafsson plastics). I've tried this one, and I like the protection it provides…probably the least amount of buffeting of the three…and not bad on protection, either. Fit on the one I have is not good (read: quite poor). Be prepared that the holes (if it comes with any) may not be correctly drilled. You may also need to cut on the plastic some to make it fit properly. Frustrating…but that is the way it is. I especially like that it completely replaces the stock shield. I've heard mixed reports from numerous people who have had both good and bad experiences with Gustafsson Plastics (both their products and how they treat their customers). So, buyer beware.
Gustafsson Plastics 'Touring' windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Charlie Taliaferro.
Gustafsson Plastics 'Touring' windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES. Photo courtesy of Charlie Taliaferro.
The Kymco scooter option:
Leonidas Stilas sent me this photo of his Quota 1000 with a windshield from a Kymco 500 scooter.
Kymco 500 scooter windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Photo courtesy of Leonidas Stilas.
Homemade option:
With a little effort, a person can craft their own windshield. Results in terms of wind buffeting and protection are often as good as (or better) than some of the commercially available solutions. Some people have simple secured a flat piece of plexiglass on top of the existing shield. Others have started with a windscreen off of a scooter then modified it to fit the Quota front fairing. The tallest wind screen pictured below was made by Riccardo Rompani (he used to write from time to time in the US quota forum under the nickname of 'alitoditrota'). Thanks to Pippo Lambardo for sending me this information and for the photos.
Homemade windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Windshield made by Riccardo Rompani. Photo courtesy of Pippo Lambardo.
Homemade windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Windshield made by Riccardo Rompani. Photo courtesy of Pippo Lambardo.
Homemade windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Windshield made by Riccardo Rompani. Photo courtesy of Pippo Lambardo.
Homemade windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Windshield made by Riccardo Rompani. Photo courtesy of Pippo Lambardo.
Homemade windshield fitted to a Moto Guzzi Quota 1000. Windshield made by Riccardo Rompani. Photo courtesy of Pippo Lambardo.
Wiring diagram (very large and easy to read)
Updated: 2009 Mar 28
To me, there are few things more frustrating than struggling to read a wallet-sized wiring diagram. This enlarged wiring diagram prints across multiple pages. Once you tape the pages together, you'll have a very large wiring diagram that is easy to read. I attach it to the back side of a door in my garage.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 1,905 KB | 25 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Workshop manuals
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 7,952 KB | 42 pages | |
| 9,006 KB | 190 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.